Long Trot

by Grant Nicolle

  (L) & (R) Heading for Contin through the forest Having had a pint for lunch, it was hard to get back on the road and do the last miles to Muir of Ord. Mum, Ken and Fi all left by car and I headed off with Marv to do the last half of the day. Marv and I plodded on crossing the River Conon and passing through Marybank on the A832. ‘The team’ had helped us out by scouting ahead and securing a stable for Marv at Chapelton Farm equestrian centre. When we arrived at the yard, in the next door stable to Marv was a sick horse which was very unwell. Its owners were doing a sitting vigil in the barn as we left Marv for the night. There was nothing that anybody could do to help, the vet had been and it was a question of time. Mum and Ken had generously booked Fi and me into the local hotel for a proper bed (and my first bath). The long soak was restorative and morale boosting. I sorted all my kit in the hotel room, ditching the fly rug, as I had only used it once, and it was very heavy. After a great pub meal I got an early night as there was to be no rest day tomorrow, that was still a week away.

  Day 8 (Muir of Ord to Tomich – 21 miles)

  We had a superb ‘full Scottish’ breakfast, then checked out to head down to see Marv at the local yard. The sad news was that Marv’s neighbour had not lasted the night and we were greeted with an empty stable upon arrival. So it was with quiet contemplation that I saddled up Marv and headed out on the road for day eight. Today started dry, but turned out to be the wettest on the trip. Soon after Beauly, I pulled on the waterproofs and we kept plodding on southwest. I had Maisie for company for a few miles, but as the rain started she opted for the car quite sensibly. As it was a Sunday my weekend visitors would be leaving mid-afternoon, and the knowledge of this added to my slightly dampened spirits. Uncle Douglas and Aunt Joan had driven across from Lossiemouth today to say hello, and they caught up with me on the road up Strath Glass. They then all went off for a pub lunch at Struy leaving Marv and me to continue the miles. At the pub they had bought and warmed some red wine which was duly produced in a screw top bottle and made me look like a wandering wino. The wine helped morale and it was good to catch up with them albeit only for a few minutes in the rain.

  (L) & (C) Tired and wet in Strath Glass, (R) in the barn at Tomich Once my family had left, the day thereafter was just head down and onwards. When we arrived much later in Tomich, I got some poor directions off a local and wasted 90 minutes going up the wrong track. At 1900 I finally found the barn which I had previously organised. The open barn had no sides but was half full of large round hay bales. This would have to do. I tied up a para cord round the barn columns to make a temporary fence for Marv. He then had unlimited hay on tap. I found a bucket and water for Marv and could then set about my dinner of noodles. I slept on top of the round bales whilst Marv happily munched the hay all around me. Although I arrived tired and a bit annoyed from the wasted time at the end of the day, it was a most memorable night in the barn.

  Week 2 (85 miles)

  Week 2 (total 85 miles)

  Day 9 (Tomich to Fort Augustus – 16 miles) Today was due to be a little shorter in length, being less than 20 miles, but it was to be quite a bleak heather-strewn landscape with no settlements on route. There were also two big climbs to take in. The land rover track followed a pylon line for a while and we were making good progress for the first few hours into a strong headwind. I happened to look back at Marv and noticed that my camouflage rucksack cover (which I was using as a saddle cover) was missing. Bitterly disappointed that it was gone, instead of just accepting the fact, I made the fatal mistake of assuming it had only just blown off and that I could find it. I was so annoyed at myself I actually said to Marv “stay here mate, I’ll be back in a minute”. I then proceeded to run back down the track on the lookout for the lost item. Marv was not keen on staying put and started trotting to follow me. I finally gave up after half an hour of fruitless running and the back track of two miles. As I turned round, Marv stared at me indignantly suggesting ‘what the hell was that all for?’ I was so embarrassed, to then have to go back over the same two miles again unnecessarily. Adding four miles to the day was just stupid and I needed to get real. As well as losing the saddle cover I also lost a small bag with tent pegs and other essential items which had fallen out as Marv had cantered over the heather in pursuit of me. My military training had clearly faded and some more self-discipline was needed fast. On the plus side, Marv was getting much braver and was seen to be fording a two foot deep river, having earlier in trip shied at a shallow stream.

  Just before losing my saddle cover We arrived in Fort Augustus later in the day to find a hugely welcoming Mrs Findlay at her small holding on the outskirts of the village. Marv’s rear shoes were not in good shape and the pair were looking loose and worn. I managed to call Robin Pape, the local farrier, and he said he could attend to Marv, but not until later the next day. It would mean losing a day of the schedule, which I really didn’t want to do, but the steep Corrieyairack Pass was the next section, and this would be hard on Marv’s feet. If he lost a shoe on this section, it could put the trip in jeopardy. Mrs Findlay very kindly allowed me to stay an extra day and night to wait for the farrier. In fairness, Marv and I both badly needed the rest day anyway. We had pushed so hard since the start with long miles completed each day, that this set back was actually a positive. Mrs Findlay’s home cooking was excellent and I met her son who ran a small sawmill on the property.

  (L) Marv samples verge at Fort Augustus, (R) W ade’s road out of Fort Augustus

  Day 10 (Fort Augustus – enforced rest day) A day of bliss for us, but Marv had on his midge hood as there were a few of the beasties around. He shared his field with some chickens and sheep and did very well for some extra snacks. I wandered into Fort Augustus to send Fi a postcard and top up on supplies. During the day I managed to read a book on the construction of the Caledonian Canal which was built by renowned civil engineer Thomas Telford. I thought this book was particularly apt as Fort Augustus was located midway on the canal and had a series of locks which took years to build. It was good to learn a bit of local history whilst passing through. My shins were giving me a bit of grief and also the arch on my left foot was sore. This day helped relieve these pressures a little. Marv was still sound and was looking in great shape. He had lost some weight, but his muscle definition was excellent. I had become aware that if the saddle bags were not secured correctly saddle rubs occurred, and so I managed to invent a system which prevented any future rubs. Arriving mid-afternoon, Robin was a great bearded bear of a man with a superb character. He sorted Marv out with a new set of rear shoes which would hold sound for many miles. We were now all set to proceed on the trip first thing next morning.

  (L) Robin changes rear shoes, Marv has his midge head net on, (R) Marv’s mates

  Day 11 (Fort Augustus – Laggan – 18 miles) Mrs Findlay cooked another superb breakfast and sent me on my way with a comprehensive packed lunch. So with a much more relaxed peace of mind and rested bodies we headed off for the Corrieyairack Pass. This was one of General Wade’s military roads and the pass climbed to 760 metres. The weather was fair and the views fantastic. As we had the benefit of the break I think we both enjoyed the day much more. It wasn’t the slog it had been a few days ago.

  (L) & (R) Up and over the pass When we reached the top of the pass we looked southeast towards Dalwhinnie and the A9, which we would be reaching tomorrow. Half way down the pass I was met by Fred, who had canoed in the RAF with my father. He walked with us down to Laggan and took some photos and a short video of Marv walking across a bridge on his own whilst following us. We stopped at Garvamore where we met Duncan and Pete who had made a field available for Marv. I put my bivi up in the field and gratefully joined the family for dinner. They wouldn’t allow me to sleep outside, so I quickly accepted the offer of the sofa.

  (L) & (R) Down the pass and back onto roads

  Day 12 (Laggan to Dalnaspidal Lodge – 21 miles) In the morning, Pete’s wife Lisa and daughter Jessica managed to see Marv before she lef
t for school. Marv had made overnight friends with a black mare, and made numerous neighing calls as we departed. I had organised to meet up with Jim the local International League for the Protection of Horses (ILPH) field officer, near Catlodge. He had brought coffee and sandwiches for us and we chatted away whilst Marv happily grazed outside a visitor centre. We talked about the trip and it was good to know that the ILPH were being very supportive of us. I was keen to ensure that their faith in me was not misplaced. After Jim had left, Marv and I made good time and reached Dalwhinnie by lunch time. I had planned to stop here, and had organised a stable for Marv.

  Pausing for a quick munch just north of Dalwhinnie I found the stable, took the saddle off Marv and put him in, and enjoyed my sandwiches whilst contemplating my options. On my original planned route I had added an extra loop to go up to Kingussie and down Glen Tromie. This was because it looked a scenic route to take. But as I had lost a day due to Marv’s shoes, I saw an opportunity to claw back the day and get back on schedule. This was important, as I had many nights planned to stay with people and I didn’t want to be ringing everyone to change the days. Also the weekends were planned to coincide with being at certain places so I could share my day off with people. By cutting out this extra leg (the route would have taken me northeast for a few miles) I could still make Aberfeldy for the weekend. So I made the decision to push on south down the A9 today to see how far I could get. Marv thought that the walking was over for the day and was getting comfortable in the stable. I saddled him back up and pushed on. This was Thursday and Fi was heading north to meet me after work.

  Once we reached the A9, there is a footpath/cyclepath adjacent to the very busy road, but quite often the path is only one metre away from the carriageway. Marv is bulletproof and was not fussed at all by the speeding traffic. We got numerous positive beeps on the horn from passing motorists which kept the spirits up. After Dalwhinnie there are no more settlements until Bruar, only a few hunting lodges. I began to wonder where I might put Marv for the night. There were no fields or fences to be seen, only open heather moorland. I tried the solitary B&B on the way to Drumochter, but they were full and not too helpful. My goal was Dalnacardoch Lodge just short of Bruar, where we were scheduled to stay, but I doubted if we would make it that far. In the end we made it to Dalnaspidal Lodge just before dark and the local landowner allowed Marv a sheltered field just off the A9. I put my bivi up just in time to take shelter from a hail storm, but Marv had no option but to just brave it out. Fi and Maisie arrived soon after with bags of morale. We put a rug on Marv and the mooch (Maisie’s nickname) kept Marv company during his dinner of Dodson & Horrell mix, while Fi and I put up the tent for a night of relative comfort. The incredibly well organised Fi had again produced a sumptuous picnic dinner from a cool box overflowing with tasty treats. I was glad to be through the Drumochter pass of the A9 as this marked the end of the Highlands section of the trip and it was onwards towards Perthshire and Edinburgh, which felt like going home.

  (L), (C) & (R) In the field by Dalnaspidal Lodge

  Day 13 (Dalnaspidal Lodge to Tirnie Farm – 25 miles) As we had not quite reached our original intended destination for day 12, we now had extra miles to do today to get back on schedule. It was an early start for us all. Marv came to say hello by sticking his big head into the tent to say good morning and to see where his breakfast was. He was careful not to stand on the tent with his huge feet, but you could see they were very close to the edge of the fly sheet. Maisie thought this was a great game and jumped on Marv’s nose whereby the two animals careered off down the field together.

  Hoof pick before start I doubted whether I would reach Aberfeldy in one day, so the plan was just to do as many miles as was comfortable. I soon passed the lodge where we had been expected the night before and then swung south on the quiet road up and over the moor into Trinafour. I had agreed to meet Fi there around midday. When Fi found me, I was chatting to Bob, who was the Auchleek Estate’s gamekeeper (we began chatting as I had cut a corner by crossing his land). He cordially invited Fi and me for lunch in the village with his employer, the local farmer Alec and his wife Martha. We headed down the hill and found the farm house. Marv had a bale of hay to tuck into whilst we had a veritable spread of a lunch inside. After a splendid surprise lunch stop we headed south on the road to Tummel Bridge. We managed a long canter here, the first in a long time, and it was good for us both. Marv enjoyed doing something other than just walk and trot. However, the hills were still plentiful and the gradients slowed the average speed. I sent Fi off on a mission to find a field this side of Aberfeldy as we were not going to make the full distance today. We ploughed on and then got the call that she had located a suitable field from a local farmer. When Marv and I finally caught up with Fi having done 25 miles, we were gratefully shown the field and we left a relieved Marv with his dinner for the night. It felt weird to be leaving Marv on his own for the first time, but he was not bothered, just glad of the grass and a rest. We headed down to our cottage for the weekend near Aberfeldy and I had a long soak in the bath. It was great to have made it to the end of week 2 (nearly) and a lot of selfimposed pressure about our ability to complete the trip was dissipating, now we were in Perthshire.

  (L) & (R) Relaxing in the cottage near Aberfeldy

  Day 14 (Tirnie Farm to Aberfeldy – 5 miles, nearly a rest day) Feeling very relaxed, but a bit stiff in the legs, we drove back the 5 miles to Marv’s field. There he was, all alert and waiting by the gate for the next leg. He was not to know it was only a short stint today. To give him a bigger break, we went without a saddle, and I alternately rode him bareback and walked him the short distance to our weekend lodgings near Aberfeldy. Mooch joined us once we turned off the main road. We got Marv up to the cottage by mid-morning on the Saturday, and we had thereby earned an almost full rest day. I sorted out my saddle and equipment, doing some repairs and some repacking of kit. It was just good to spend time with Fi and the Mooch and not be on the move for once. Both Marv and I ate very well at Aberfeldy and we were very well looked after. I changed from my Jodhpur boots to trainers as the arch on my left foot was still giving me grief. It was made worse, by continually mounting Marv several times a day, and the ensuing twisting action in my foot getting into the saddle’s stirrups. The trainers helped, but I still had no idea what the issue was.

  Marv says hello

  Day 15 (Aberfeldy rest day) This was a purely luxurious day which lifted my spirits. I spent some time going over the detail of the trip so far with Fi. We also spent time with Marv ensuring he was ok and had no niggles. I adjusted the saddle to fit Marv’s changing shape, as he was now becoming more athletic and his back muscles had developed further. It was great to catch up with the Mooch, who thought the trip was good fun and couldn’t see why she couldn’t do the whole thing. I did suggest it to Fi who said that losing both me and Marv for a few months was bad enough. A fair point, no more discussion needed on the matter.

  (L) Marv enjoying his first day off, (R) adjusting the saddle to Marv’s stronger back We spent some time going through the diary entries for the ‘Long Trot’ website, which was a live site before and during the trip. During the trip I made a daily diary entry in my largely illegible scribble. This was done each night after Marv was sorted and I had managed to feed myself. The mission was to get the diary information back to base (ie Fi) and from there onto the website in good time. I tried my best to call Fi daily, if the mobile signal allowed. That allowed her to get a flavour of any news or issues I had. I then either sent the weekly diary entries to her by post, or when I was still in Scotland by hand (as I met up with her for the first three weekends). Fi then had to somehow decode my handwriting, turn it into legible type and get Julian (our academic on the team) to cross check the text, before Mark uploaded it to the website. Together with the text, I also forwarded the week’s photos on a memory card. Oblivious to the lengthy process this was, I occasionally became frustrated if the diary was a week behind, forgetting t
hat they still had their jobs to do concurrently. If the trip was done again now, an IPhone would be all that would be required to keep any interested followers updated with text, photos and tweets. Also it would ease the pressure on the backup team.

  Week 3 (79 miles)

  Week 3 (total 79 miles)

  Day 16 (Aberfeldy to Amulree - 11 miles) To round off a thoroughly pleasant weekend with Fi, our first day of week three was a stroll of 11 miles. I had pre booked a room in the hotel at Amulree, and they had provided a field next to the hotel for Marv. After saying goodbye to Fi and Mooch, we headed through Aberfeldy by crossing the old bridge to the north and then taking the A826 south through Glen Cochill. We had dropped some hard feed at the Hotel over the weekend, so Marv had his 3kg helping waiting for him upon our arrival at lunchtime. It so happened that Rob, a school friend, who was flying helicopters in Florida, was over in the UK and decided to fly north to catch up with me. He borrowed my car from Edinburgh and drove up to see me at Amulree. He picked me up at the Hotel in the afternoon and we drove off to nearby Dunkeld for a coffee and a natter. It was great to see Rob, as he was one of the first people to introduce me to horses. Having an afternoon off with a shorter day coincided nicely with him being in the UK. He dropped me back at the hotel and headed off. I had a dinner for one at the empty hotel and went to bed keeping an eye on Marv from my bedroom window. I started to feel that I had become a bit soft, after having spent nights under the bivi in a field with Marv, I was now in a hotel room. I actually had a bed organised all the way to Edinburgh this week so this was going to be an easy week compared to the first two.