Long Trot

by Grant Nicolle

  (L) Outside the pub in Bratton Clovelly, (R) yet more verge munching We arrived in Lifton in good time at 1600, after finishing on a really wet and

  slippery bridleway. With no mobile signal I struggled to locate the riding school, which I had organised previously. When I did get a signal I found out that the school was on the outskirts of Launceston, two miles away. It was entirely my fault for not plotting it properly in the first place. A little dejected, with another 45 minutes still to go, we headed off, crossed the swollen River Tamar and into Cornwall. This was to be our final county border crossing, which was poignant, as it meant the end was near. We then quickly found St Leonard’s Equestrian Centre opposite Launceston Rugby Club. Abbie met us and she was in charge of the stables whilst the owner Andy was away on holiday. Marv was given a stable overlooking their outdoor school, and was able to dry out properly over-night. I was very kindly offered a holiday cottage for the night, so we both did rather well.

  Day 73 (Launceston to St Cleer - 18miles)

  Breakfast was a round of bacon rolls and cereal bought at the Spar the night before. The night had been very wet, and we were both lucky to have been under cover. The outdoor riding school was partially flooded. Again, I tacked him up under the available cover, and we headed off into the intermittent showers which stopped after two hours. To date on the trip, my waterproofs had not been needed much, despite this year being one of the wettest on record (I subsequently discovered).

  The morning’s meanderings took us through the villages of Lezant, Trebullett and Rilla Mill. As with other areas of the south west, the lanes had high hedges, so when on foot, the views were limited. The gradients were starting to tell, and were similar to a few days in the Peak district. We had a good climb up through Upton Cross to Minions on the southern edge of Bodmin Moor. Luckily, located here was a Post Office and an opportunity for snacks and photos. Waterproofs were then donned again for the final push to cross the edge of the moor. Marv became very interested in all the wild horses and ponies grazing freely around. I would have liked to have hung around a little longer for him to socialise, but the rain kept coming and we needed to get to our final destination of the day.

  (L) Minions Post Office, (R) Marv spots the native ponies on the moor We found a convenient bridleway short cut into the village of St Cleer (on the hill) and located The Stag pub. Landlord Bob had managed to secure the use of a field behind the pub, from one of his regulars Pete. Marv had plenty of grass to munch on, as this field had clearly not seen livestock for some time. I had the use of a small corrugated barn in the same field, which was full of square hay bales. This was perfect as a mattress. Bob allowed me the use of the pub shower to freshen up and an evening meal which was ideal.

  I retired early to my hay loft to write my diary and catch up with Fi by phone. My bed was certainly comfortable and dry, but it was only two by two square bales wide and there was a five bale drop to the floor. I needed not to roll over in the night in my sleeping bag. Just in case I did roll, I decided to bungee myself to the side of the barn. The ever inquisitive Marv came over to see me later and stuck his head in the open door to check up on me. Small events like this really meant a great deal to me, as it did get a little lonely on the road. Though perhaps he was just checking for dry space inside should it rain?

  Day 74 (St Cleer to Bugle - 18 miles)

  I had a relative lie in to 0800, and woke to find Marv fast asleep in the deep grass just outside the door of the barn. I packed up my gear inside, and as soon as I was ready, Marv poked his head back in as if to say “are we off now?” He had certainly got the rhythm of the routine down to a tee. I called in at the local stores as we left the village to get some milk for my cereal which I had in a grassy layby off a tiny lane. Dried milk was something I had decided a while back not to use unless absolutely necessary. Little did I know that this was to be the day’s last shop stop.

  (L) Marv helps with directions, (R) nice church… We traversed the lanes, through St Neot and Mount, came close to the outskirts of the town of Bodmin and the nearby A30 as we crossed the busy A38. Getting hungry now, I found my reserve Mars bar deep in a saddle bag, and resorted to eating dried Crunchy Nut cornflakes, which helped. We took a more scenic forest path and passed through the grounds of a National Trust property called Lanbydrock House. To exit the grounds we needed to use the pedestrian gate (next to a cattle grid) and I found this was too narrow for Marv with all his saddle bags on. So finally, learning from previous similar mistakes, I was patient and took his saddle and saddle bags off and carried them through, then led him through, to then re-tack up the other side. It may have felt like an inconvenience, but I had ripped the saddle bags too many times already by being impatient.

  As it was so warm, I risked getting some sun on my back as the lanes were especially quiet. On the approach to the village of Bugle I got very clear instructions to where Barry’s house and field were located. I passed a large field of caravans which apparently were to house eastern Europeans working locally. I could see the start of a huge open cast quarrying facility, which was visible for miles and dominated the entire area. This was the St Austell china clay workings, which I would have to circumnavigate tomorrow. I found Barry’s house at the end of a residential cul de sac. A very unlikely place to be staying with a horse it seemed. Marv was led to a hidden field at the back of the house, this time to be sharing with a tethered goat. I was kindly offered Barry’s annex which had a bed/shower/toilet facility and was ideal to do my admin in. No need for the bivi tonight.

  (L) Bare arms in the sun, (R) Marv having chased the resident goat into his shed After a short nap to recharge the batteries, I headed off to the local pub for a meal of mussels. I turned down the offer of staying for the pub quiz, and headed back to the house via the Spar for a top up of supplies and breakfast items. I checked on Marv who was being strangely competitive with the goat over territory, and was forcing the goat to go back into his little shed. I reprimanded Marv, as it was the goat’s field after all. The two of them then ate peacefully together as I could see them from my annex window. I had very sore legs today and noted in my diary that I now couldn’t wait to get to the finish.

  Day 75 (Bugle to Trispen - 15 miles)

  The weather was misty and cool today. Marv was at peace with the goat when I went to get him. I packed up and put the key for the annex through Barry’s window as previously agreed, as he had left for work already. We left Bugle and passed the china clay workings. It was pleasant walking in the cool mist, although visibility was not ideal. I was concerned about our safety on the road, with cars appearing out of nowhere. We passed Roche and into Nanpean, stopping at a Post Office for some bland sandwiches and carrots for the boy. Then we continued down lanes to the outskirts of St Stephen, with even more hills to climb to reach Ladock. We had to turn around in the village and retrace our route as a set of pedestrian gates prevented Marv from getting through.

  (L) Concrete block factory, (R) come on Grant, keep up… With a final set of rollercoaster lanes completed we reached Trispen and Trevispian Vean Farm. Here, Ernie had kindly offered Marv a stable. This was to be an interesting night for the both of us. The farm was actually a massive pig farm. Marv’s stable was adjacent to a barn holding at least 200 pigs. As you have probably already discovered, Marv (like many horses) had a strong aversion to pigs. Now just to put this into context, there was also a livery yard here at the farm, and there were other horses stabled only yards away. This must have given Marv some confidence that it should be safe. I did not know in advance that this was a pig farm, otherwise I would certainly have looked to stay somewhere else. It seemed rude to not stay, though this was certainly going to be a challenging night.

  (L) Marv’s stable window; I slept on the straw beneath it, (R) our neighbour for the night We put the unhappy Marv in his stable and he could see (and hear) from his window the proximity of the pigs. He kept on snorting and standing at the back of his box trying to come to terms with this injustice.
I decided I needed to be near him tonight, so slept on a pile of hay under his stable window. I also found that with only less than a week to go, he had a loose shoe, and so I called a kind lady called Chris (from St Newlyn East) whom I almost stayed with before straightening my route through Cornwall. She had a farrier organised within ten minutes for the following morning. Chris herself arrived later that night with some friends to see Marv, and to drop off some money she had kindly collected for the charities. Marv wasn’t having a relaxing night, so I got up at midnight to reduce the size of his stable window by two slats, as I thought he was considering jumping out and escaping the pig farm altogether. He finally calmed down and we both got some rest.

  Day 76 (Trispen to Ponsanooth - 11 miles)

  After a stressful night for both of us, I packed up our gear and awaited the farrier who was booked for 1000. Friday the 13th (July) had already had an impact. Marv had diarrhoea (probably due to stress), and mucking him out wasn’t so much fun either. We had a few well-wishing visits from Ernie, his son Nick and his wife (all of whom gave generous donations). Stephen Long the farrier, arrived slightly early and we led the tense Marv up to the hay barn to try and re-shoe him. Stephen used to be a jockey, and now trained point to pointers as well as being a farrier. He could see Marv was having trouble standing still and he was incredibly patient in re-shoeing him. He did both new rear shoes and put his fee towards the charities. A very helpful and considerate man.

  (L) Stephen the farrier and Ernie, (R) ready to go for the day We left just before 1100 and walked through the village before crossing the A39, and off again down the quiet country lanes. Fi was flying down to Exeter today, landing at 1100 and hiring a car to come and see us on our last weekend. I was keen therefore to get a move on and make up some time for our unscheduled farrier stop. We took a long track through a wood on the outskirts of Truro, and I utilised Marv’s nervous energy to run a great part of it.

  (L) In the woods just before Truro, (R) Truro Cathedral Reaching the outskirts of Britain’s most southerly city, I was now getting rather hungry again so I decided to travel through the city centre and grab something on route. Fiona was getting near in her hire car and we were trying to work out a suitable rendezvous to meet up. I managed a bacon roll in the pedestrianised area, and a baguette (on the house) at a deli on the way out. We paused in the city centre just long enough to get a photo of the Cathedral behind us before heading out into the countryside. We didn’t have time to appreciate the sights of Truro in retrospect. Rain was lashing down as we finally met up with Fi in a service station forecourt. It was not very glamorous, but certainly functional, as it provided shelter. After a quick catch up chat and some more food for both of us, the rain stopped and Marv and I headed off for the last few miles of the day, whilst Fi went ahead to the day’s stopover location.

  I was met in Ponsanooth by Fi and Pam’s dog Jazz (Maisie wasn’t allowed to fly south), and we walked in the last few hundred metres together. Marv got a great field next to Pam’s other horses; George, Willow and Lady. Freya, Pam’s daughter, helped settle Marv in and get him a feed. Once he was happy, we both then went back to the Stag Inn where we were to be based for my last rest weekend. We ventured into nearby Devoran for a meal before heading back for an early night.

  After breakfast Fi and I went to check up on Marv before exploring nearby Falmouth. We then met up with Giles (an Army friend), his wife Ruth and kids who were holidaying in the area. We walked their dogs along the coastal path before returning to Pam’s to see how Marv was enjoying his time off. Marv had managed to catch his chest with his rear shoe, probably trying to flick off flies. Giles (an Army doctor) and I administered some Hibiscrub and iodine, as it was only a minor graze. Later on, Fi and I explored the foggy Lizard Point before having dinner in Helston.

  (L) Giles meets Marv, (R) Giles and Ruth on the farm We had a strategic lunch today at Victoria on the A30, as Fi had a return flight to catch to Edinburgh at 1800. Mum and Ken were arriving into Newquay (by air) at 1300. So this was to be a hand-over lunch. Fi had to go back to work sadly, and would have loved to have been at the finish as she truly deserved to be. She departed and I was driven by Mum and Ken to the Foresters B&B near St Ives where we would all be staying for the next three days until the finish.

  Week 12 (34 miles)

  Week 12 (total 34 miles)

  Day 79 (Ponsanooth to Godolphin Cross - 12 miles) I had planned the last three days of the trip to be short days, lest anything go wrong I would then have a buffer to use to enable me to complete on the designated day. That day was Wednesday 18th July. So far so good, we were on plan. This was much more civilised than the twenty mile days of earlier in the trip, and it was mid-summer so the weather also helped make this a memorable finish. With this in mind, there was no rush to start the days early either, so Mum, Ken and I stopped off at the local Stithians show (largest one day show in the county apparently). There were fields of parked cars in all directions. I didn’t expect to see so many people congregated in such a quiet rural area deep in Cornwall.

  I headed over to the equestrian area and bought some travel boots and bandages for the return road trip. We then sat and watched some show jumping before heading over to Pam’s and getting Marv ready for that day’s miles. Pam and family were just saying their goodbyes to Marv as they were off to the show too. Marv and I then set off up the lanes bypassing Stithians now, and going through the villages of Carnkie and Porkellis. I met Mum and Ken near Releath and we all walked in together. Ken led Marv for much of the last few miles and therefore had to contend with Marv’s verge diving activity. We met Helen, who had offered a field for Marv, at the pub in Godolphin Cross. I was initially a little disappointed to learn that the field was one mile away, very near where we had just walked past. I guess again it was my own fault for not fully clarifying the location before arrival.

  (L) Mum and Ken join us for the day’s miles, (R) Ken enjoying leading Marv Pam, the field’s owner, drove us round to the next village to show us where

  to take Marv. She had a hay net and an evening feed for him already prepared. Marv also had her horse for company tonight, and over a hundred wild rabbits helping keep the grass short. I went back to lead Marv in, as Mum and Ken had been keeping an eye on him back at the pub. After ensuring Marv was ok, we stopped at the Godolphin Arms for a quick pint before heading back to the Foresters for a shower and nipping into Penzance for a recce for tomorrow and some dinner.

  Day 80 (Godolphin Cross to Newlyn - 12 miles)

  Not long left now, and the weather has been kind to us. After breakfast, I was driven to Godolphin Cross and we made ready for our penultimate day’s travel. Marv and I went up and over Godolphin Hill and down the lanes to the elusive coast. I had only seen the sea at the start, at Beauly, and when I crossed the Forth Road Bridge. Now with two days to go I would experience one of the most iconic beach vistas in Britain. We went through Goldwithney then into beautiful coastal Marazion. Here we saw the sea and I looked for a way down to the beach. We had a few false starts, where we couldn’t make it onto the beach due to obstacles, and Marv pumped out a few loads of droppings in his excitement of seeing the sea. Maybe he hadn’t been on a beach before, I just don’t know, but the wind had got up and he was on his toes.

  (L) Marv canters back to me at Marazion, (R) on the beach in front of St Michael’s Mount

  (L) On Mount Bay, (R) reaching Penzance harbour At last we found a way onto the beach opposite the island of St Michael’s Mount. I jumped up on Marv and we started cantering down the beach. I asked a friendly kite surfer to take a couple of pictures before continuing on the canter. I was quite emotionally charged, with this being a very memorable way to reach our last town. We were met by Mum and Ken, who had driven out from Penzance with a picnic which we had on the beach. Mum then left to drive to the last night’s field, and Ken walked with us into the town of Penzance alongside the railway line past Britain’s most southerly station. It was then through a car park and onto t
he quayside next to the harbour.

  There were so many picture opportunities available as we passed the coastal open air salt water swimming pool and into adjoining Newlyn. There was a steep climb to contend with out of Newlyn into the amazingly discreet village of Tredavoe. Marv’s last field was a cracker, with fantastic sea views and two other horses for company nearby, along with plenty of good grass. After de-kitting, we headed back to St Ives as Pete (from earlier) had arrived from Shropshire with his 4x4 and horse trailer. He had volunteered to take us back to Edinburgh the next day. The total distance he would drive to complete this would be 1150 miles, virtually the same as mine, and my profound thanks go to him for his five days out to help me conclude the trip.

  I met Pete at the Foresters and we headed off for a walk round St Ives to catch up. Ken took the car to Land’s End to recce the last few miles and the finish itself. We all headed out later into Marazion for a wonderful last supper overlooking St Michael’s Mount, which was and still is very poignant to me.

  Day 81 (Newlyn to Land’s End - 10 miles)

  I was up for breakfast with the finishing team of Pete, Mum and Ken, and was starting to feel a little apprehensive about the end. It was almost a year since I started planning this trip, and just over eleven weeks of having undertaken it, it was about to end today. My feelings were a mixture of: relief that it was going to be a success; pride that Marv and I had done it; pleasure that we had managed to share it with family, friends and generous strangers and sadness that this adventure was drawing to a close with all its fantastic memories.

  We drove the short distance to Tredavoe, and Marv as usual trotted over to the gate, ready for the last leg. We led him down into the steading to tack him up for the last time. I then rode off on Marv up a muddy bridleway, whilst the others headed off to drop Pete’s 4x4 and trailer at the finish. Marv and I did some good cross country through fields to get back onto a road and headed off towards the next rendezvous of St Buryan. I had to lead Marv over a disused cattle grid (which was filled up with soil). Marv did very well and walked over calmly. I met the team in the village, and took the opportunity to dive into the local store for some finish food for Marv to include all his favourites.