The American Boy's Handy Book

by Daniel Carter Beard

  The tactics used in these battles of the clouds are just the opposite from those employed in fighting with unarmed kites.

  To win the battle you so manœuvre your warrior that its tail sweeps across and cuts the string of your antagonist.

  Armed kites are usually made after the pattern of the American six-sided or hexagonal kite. They are two and one-half feet high, covered with paper cambric, or, when economy is no object, with silk.

  As a successful warrior looks well after his arms, so should the tail of a war kite receive the most careful attention.

  One very popular style of tail is made of strips of bright-colored cloth about one inch wide tied securely in the middle to a strong twine, the tail ending in a fancy tassel.

  Another style is made of long narrow strips of white cloth securely sewed together. This tail is not so apt to become knotted or tangled as the first.

  How to Make the Knives.

  The "cutters" to be attached to the tail are made of sharp pieces of broken glass called knives.

  From a thick glass bottle, broken off below the neck, chip off pieces. This can be done with the back of a heavy knife blade or a light hammer. The workman cannot be too careful or cautious in breaking or handling the glass, as the least carelessness is sure to result in bad cuts and bloody fingers.

  From the slivers or chips of glass select pieces thick on the outside curve, but with a keen sharp inside edge. It may take time, experience, and several bottles to get knives to exactly suit you.

  How to Make Cutters.

  Fasten three knives together with wax (Fig. 30) so that each shall point in a different direction, bind on this three slips of thin wood lengthwise to hold the wax and glass firmly, and cover it neatly with cloth or kid.

  A piece of twine looped at each end should pass through the apparatus lengthwise. This, of course, to be put in before the slips are bound together. Excellent cutters can be made of blades from an old penknife.

  A much simpler weapon is made with a piece of stout twine one foot long, dipped in glue and rolled in pounded glass until thickly coated with a glistening armor of sharp points. Two of these incorporated in the lower half of the kite's tail will be found to be effective cutters.

  Boys participating in this war of kites should always bear in mind the fact that it requires but little skill to cut an unarmed kite, and that there is no honor or glory to be gained in vanquishing a foe who is unable to defend himself.

  There are many other attachments, improvements, and amusing appliances that suggest themselves to an enthusiastic kite-flyer.

  Kite Clubs.

  The field is a large one, and the opportunities for originality and ingenuity almost unbounded. If some enthusiastic, energetic boy will take the initiatory steps, kite clubs might be formed throughout the country with appropriate names, rules, and regulations, which, during the kite season, would have their meets and tournaments, and award prizes to the steadiest stander, the highest flyer, and the most original and unique design besides the prizes awarded at the jousts of the war kites.

  The organization of such clubs would give a new impetus to an amusement deserving of greater popularity than it has ever attained in this country.

  CHAPTER III.

  NOVEL MODES OF FISHING.

  The Bell Pole.

  IN THE Gulf States, upon some of the plantations that border the sluggish streams or bayous peculiar to that part of the country, the field hands have a simple and ingenious contrivance by which they are enabled to fish without interfering with the discharge of their duties.

  The apparatus used consists of an ordinary cane-pole to which a long line with any number of hooks is attached; an old bell is hung at the end of the cane where the line is fastened.

  The sable sportsmen set a number of poles, rigged in this manner, thrusting the butt ends of the rods into the soft bank so that they stand almost upright along the edge of the water upon which the plantation borders.

  After the hooks are baited the lines are cast out as far as they will reach into the stream and left to take care of themselves. As soon as a fish is hooked it struggles to free itself, but the first plunge the unwary creature makes rings the bell at the end of the rod and summons the laborer from the field, who leaves his ploughing or planting just long enough to land the fish and re-bait the hook. It is seldom that the setting sun sees the dusky workmen return to their cabins empty-handed.

  By far the oddest and most original mode of fishing practised by the colored people of the Southern States is called by them

  “Jugging for Cats.”

  Early one morning, while sauntering along the levee of a small town upon the Mississippi, the author met an old colored friend, Uncle Eanes.

  "Whars I gwine?" queried the old man. "I was jus gwine to git de traps together to jug for cats,-Hi, Hi, neber hea tell of dat? De Lor! no sah, not presactly pussy cats - cullored folks eats 'bout de same as white folks (when dey can git it). Yes, sah! we's seed purty tight times since de war, Suah! but we hasent come to eating pussy cats just yet, Boss! Hi, Hi! Take a big jug suah enough to hold a tolerable sized mud cat! but we don't cotch dem in de jugs. You jest come along and I'll show you how 'tis." Uncle Eanes's invitation was accepted, and the author was initiated into the mysteries of "jugging for cats," which he found to combine exercise, excitement and fun in a much greater degree than the usual method of angling with rod and reel.

  The tackle necessary in this sport is very simple; it consists of five or six empty jugs tightly corked with corn cobs, as many stout lines, each about five feet long with a sinker and large hook at the end. One of these lines is tied to the handle of each jug. Fresh liver, angle worms, and balls made of corn meal and cotton, are used for bait; but a bit of cheese, tied up in a piece of mosquito netting to prevent its washing away, appears to be considered the most tempting morsel.

  When all the hooks are baited, and the fisherman has inspected his lines and found everything ready, he puts the jugs into a boat and rows out upon the river, dropping the earthenware floats about ten feet apart in a line across the middle of the stream. The jugs will, of course, be carried down with the current, and will have to be followed and watched. When one of them begins to behave in a strange manner, turning upside down, bobbing about, darting up stream and down, the fisherman knows that a large fish is hooked, and an exciting chase ensues. It sometimes requires hard rowing to catch the jug, for often when the fisherman feels sure of his prize and stretches forth his hand to grasp the runaway, it darts off anew, frequently disappearing from view beneath the water, and coming to the surface again, yards and yards away from where it had left the disappointed sportsman.

  One would think that the pursuit of just one jug, which a fish is piloting around, might prove exciting enough. But imagine the sport of seeing four or five of them start off on their antics at about the same moment. It is at such a time that the skill of a fisherman is tested, for a novice, in his hurry, is apt to lose his head, thereby losing his fish also. Instead of hauling in his line carefully and steadily, he generally pulls it up in such a hasty manner that the fish is able, by a vigorous flop, to tear himself away from the hook. To be a successful "jugger," one must be as careful and deliberate in taking out his fish as though he had only that one jug to attend to, no matter how many others may be claiming his attention by their frantic signals. The illustration shows how the line is rigged.

  The Dancing Fisherman

  is another method of catching fish, in principle similar to jugging, by means of a jumping-jack, or small, jointed man, whose limbs are moved by jerking a string attached to them. This little figure is fastened to a stick, which is secured in an upright position on a float made of a piece of board. Through a hole in the float is passed the string attached to the figure, and tied securely to this are the hook and line. After the hook is baited, the float is placed on the surface of the water, and the little man, standing upright, is left to wait in patience.

  Presently a fish, attr
acted by the bait, comes nearer the surface, seizes the hook quickly, and darts downward, pulling the string, and making the little figure throw up its arms and legs as though dancing for joy at having performed its task so well. The capering of Jack is the signal to his master that a fish has been caught and is struggling to free itself from the hook. This manner of fishing is necessarily confined to quiet bodies of water, such as small lakes or ponds; for in rough water poor little Jack would be upset. Fig. 31 shows how to rig the "dancing fisherman."

  Toy Boats for Fishing.

  Trolling, by means of rudely made toy boats, is a sport the novelty of which will certainly recommend itself.

  The boat can be made out of a piece of plank any where from a foot to two and one-half feet long, according to the size of the fish to be caught. Sharpen the plank at one end and rig it with one or two masts and sails of paper or cloth. The rudder must be very long in proportion to the size of the boat, to prevent its making lee way and to keep it on a straight course. To nails in the stern of the boat tie fish lines rigged with spoon or live bait (Fig. 32). This diminutive fishing-smack will not alarm the finny inhabitants of the water as a larger boat might, but when sailing before the wind will troll the bait in a manner that appears to be irresistible to bass or pickerel, and sometimes even the mud-loving cat-fish will rise and swallow the hook. A whole fleet of these little vessels may be attended by one boy if he has a boat in which to row immediately to the assistance of any of his toy boats, whose suspicious movements betray the presence of a fish in tow.

  The Wooden Otter

  consists of a board two feet long, three inches wide, and one-half-inch thick, made to float on edge in the water by weighting the lower part of the plank with lead, iron, or even stones, tied on with strings. By means of a breast-band rigged like that on a kite, a strong tow-line is fastened to the "otter." At intervals along the tow-line, shorter lines are attached baited with artificial flies, spoon hooks, dead or live bait, as the case may be, the bait of course depending altogether upon the fish you are after. As you walk or row, the "otter" sheers off and the baits comb the water in a tantalizing way that is fatal to trout, bass, or pickerel. So "killing" is this instrument that it should only be used to replenish the larder when provisions are running short in camp.

  Fishing for Fresh-Water Clams.

  Mussels, or fresh-water clams, are prized by many boys on account of the pearly opalescent substance of which the shell is composed, it being an excellent material of which to make finger-rings and charms. Not unfrequently pearls of great beauty are found concealed within the shells of these bivalves.

  The empty shells found upon the beach are never very highly prized, and are called by collectors dead shells. Shells of any kind which contain the living animal when collected, are ever after called live shells, for they still retain all their freshness and lustre after the inmate has been removed. To collect live mussel shells, you must wade, dive, or, if the water is clear enough for you to distinguish objects upon the bottom, fish for them, not with a hook and line, but with a long twig, from which all branches and leaves have been removed excepting a single bud on the end (Fig. 33). As soon as you detect a bivalve, you will discover its shells to be partially open.

  Carefully insert the bud, that you have left upon the end of your stick, between the gaping lips of the shell, the instant that the animal within feels the touch it will close its doors firmly, of course holding the switch between the shells. The bud at the end prevents the stick from slipping out, and the animal is caught by taking advantage of the very means it uses for protection.

  A simple contrivance for catching small frogs, eels, and lizards, for the aquarium consists of an elder stick, with one end cut like a quill pen with the points spread apart, as shown in sketch (Fig. 34).

  To use this you must approach a pond or brook very cautiously so as not to frighten your game. Through the clear water the little creatures can be seen resting quietly on the bottom. If you are careful not to make any disturbance or sudden movement you may get your elder lance poised over your lizard, newt, or frog, within an inch or so of its body, without disturbing him; then with a quick movement push the stick and animal both into the mud. On drawing out the stick you will find your captive squirming between the split ends of the elder-from which he can be removed without serious injury. With practice you can perfect yourself in this aquarian sport so as seldom to lose or injure your specimens.

  The snare made of fine wire in the form of a slip noose is so well known to the boys in general, that it is no novelty and unnecessary to describe.

  CHAPTER IV.

  HOME-MADE FISHING TACKLE.

  The Rod.

  IT NOT unfrequently happens that an amateur is unable to take advantage of most excellent fishing, for the want of proper or necessary tackle.

  It may be that he is accidentally in the neighborhood of a pickerel pond or trout stream, or that his fishing tackle is lost or delayed in transit. Under such circumstances a little practical ingenuity is invaluable. If within reach of any human habitation you can, in all probability, succeed in finding sufficient material with which to manufacture not only a rod which will answer your purpose, but a very serviceable reel. To rig up a home-made trout rod, you need a straight, slender, elastic pole, such as can be found in any wood or thicket, some pins, and a small piece of wire. File off the head of several pins, sharpen the blunt ends, and bend them into the form of the letter U. At a point about two feet from the butt end of the rod drive the first pin, leaving enough of the loop above the wood to allow the fish line to pass freely through; drive the other pins upon the same side of the rod and at regular intervals. Make the tip of a piece of wire by bending a neat circular loop in the centre, and then knitting or binding the wire on the end of the pole (Fig. 35). Should you have enough wire, it will answer much better for the other loops than the pins. If at a farm-house look in the attic for an old bonnet frame, or some similar object likely to be at hand, and it will furnish you with plenty of material. Cut the wire in pieces about two and a half inches long, make a simple loop in the centre of each piece, and with a "waxed end" or strong thread bind the ends of the wire lengthwise on the rod, then give each loop a turn, twisting it in proper position (Fig. 36). With a large wooden spool, an old tin can, and a piece of thick wire, a first-rate reel may be manufactured.

  Tin and Spool Reel.

  Put the wire through the spool, allowing about one inch to protrude at one end and about three inches at the opposite end. Wedge the wire in firmly by driving soft pine sticks around it, and trim off the protruding ends of the sticks. Cut a piece of tin in the shape shown by the diagram (Fig. 37), punch a hole in each side piece for the wire to pass through, leaving plenty of room for the spool to revolve freely. Turn the side-pieces up upon each side of the spool, and bend the long end of the wire in the form of a crank. Hammer the bottom piece of tin over the rod until it takes the curved form, and fits tightly, then with strong wax string bind it firmly to the rod. If it should happen that a piece of tin could not be procured, a reel can be made of a forked stick and a spool.

  The Forked-Stick Reel.

  Cut a forked stick and shave off the inside flat, as in Fig. 38, cut two notches near the bottom, one upon each side; this will allow the fork to bend readily at these points. Make a small groove for a string at the top of each prong. Put the spool between the prongs, allowing the wire to protrude through holes bored for that purpose. Bend the long end of the wire in the form of a crank. Tie a string across from end to end of the prongs to hold them in proper position, and you have a rustic but serviceable reel (Fig. 39). It may be attached to the pole in either manner shown by Figs. 40 and 41. Boys who find pleasure in outdoor sports should always be ready with expedients for any emergency. A fish hook is rather a difficult thing to manufacture, though I have seen them made of a bird's claw bound to a piece of shell by vegetable fibre. I would not advise my readers to attempt to make one. A better plan is toalways carry a suppl
y about your person, inside the lining of yourhat being a good place to deposit small hooks. For black bass,pickerel, and many other fish, live minnows are the best bait. Tocatch them you need a net.

  Home-Made Nets.

  A simple way to make a minnow net is to stretch a piece of mosquito netting between two stout sticks. If deemed necessary, floats may be fastened at the top and sinkers at the bottom edge of the net (Fig. 42). Coarse bagging may be used if mosquito netting is not obtainable. But with a forked stick and a ball of string for material, a jack-knife, and your fingers for tools, a splendid scoop-net can be made that will not only last, but be as good, if not better, than any you could purchase. Cut a good stout sapling that has two branches (Fig. 43). Trim off all other appendages, and bend the two branches until the ends over-lap each other for some distance, bind the ends firmly and neatly together with waxed twine, if it can be had-if not, with what string you have (Fig. 44).

  Fasten the pole in a convenient position so that the hoop is about level with your face. If you want the net two feet deep, cut a number of pieces of twine seven or eight feet long, double them, and slip them on the hoop in the manner shown by the first string (Fig. 45).

  Beginning at the most convenient point, take a string from each adjoining pair and make a simple knot of them, as shown by the diagram. Continue all the way around the hoop knotting the strings together in this manner. Then commence on the next lower row and so on until you reach a point where, in your judgment the net ought to commence to narrow or taper down. This can be accomplished by knotting the strings a little closer together, and cutting off one string of a pair at four equidistant points in the same row. Knot as before until you come to a clipped line; here you must take a string from each side of the single one and knot them, being careful to make it come even with others in the same row. Before tightening the double knot pass the single string through, and after tying a knot close to the double one cut the string off close. (See Fig. 45 A.)