Granada, Spain Travel Guide - What To See & Do In 2012

by Art Svenson

  Paseo de los Tristes, at the end of Carrera del Darro (bus stop Paseo de los Tristes, routes 31, 32 and 35). Perched above the Rio Darro at the end of Carrera del Darro, this plaza was once on the busiest gathering spots in Granada, positioned along a curve of the river between the Alhambra and the Albayzin. Today it is a popular place to eat owing to the restaurants lining the north side of the square and the magnificent views of the Alhambra palace it offers.

  Sacromonte

  Locals often consider the Albayzín a world away from the rest of Granada, but even the Arabic quarter can't hold a candle to the relative isolation and uniqueness of Sacromonte, a gypsy (Roma) district situated east of the Albazin, demarcated by the road Cuesta Chapiz. The neighborhood is noted for its many cave dwellings built within the sides of the hill poking out here and there between the scrubby bushes and cacti. The district is also famous for its flamenco shows popular with tourists and the amazing views of the Alhambra.

  To get to the neighborhood, you can walk or take the 31 or 32 minibuses up Carrera del Darro to Paseo de los Tristes. From there walk up Cuesta Chapiz until you reach Peso de Harina (where you'll find a small plaza with a statue of a man with a strange hat, Chorrojumo, who was regarded as the king of the gypsies). From there walk along the Camino del Sacromonte.

  Museo Cuevas Sacromonte, Barranco de los Negros, ☎ +34 958 215 120 (info@sacromontegranada.com), [18]. Summer: Daily 10:00-14:00 and 17:00-20:00; Winter: Daily 10:00-14:00 and 16:00-19:00. This museum offers the chance to get to know this neighborhood, with geological and historical exhibits on the caves, the biology, the people and the form of living as well as the traditional handicrafts of the locals. edit

  Sacromonte Abbey, [19]. Founded in the seventeenth century. Local legend says that the catacombs under the church are where the city's first bishop (and today Granada's saint) San Cecilio underwent his martyrdom.

  North Granada

  Stretching north of central Granada, the north side of town encompass a set of newer neighborhoods with wide boulevards, modern and grand classically-designed buildings and lovely urban parks. This section of town is defined to a great degree by the presence of the local university (Universidad de Granada), government buildings, and two of the main points of entry into Granada - the train station and the bus depot.

  Elvira's Gate (Puerta de Elvira), Plaza del Triunfo. Once the principal gate to the old city, Elvira's Gate now stands on the edge of a plaza, a grand Moorish-style archway over a local street.

  Hospital Real, Av. del Hospicio (Av. del Hospicio and Calle Ancha de Capuchinos), ☎ +34 958 243 025. M-F 9:00-14:00. Commissioned in 1504 by Isabel and Ferdinand, this massive square red-brick building was originally used as a hospital for the poor and soldiers who had been injured in the Reconquista of Granada. Situated on a hill over a nearby park, the structure now belongs to the University and is worth looking inside for its splendid architecture. Free.

  Triunfo Gardens (Fuente del Triunfo), Avenida de La Constitucion (between Av. Divina Pastora and Av. Del Hospicio). A beautiful urban park situated beneath the Hospital Real, the gardens hold a large fountain and an isolated column with a monument to the Virgin at the center overlooking the Avenida de La Constitucion. Evening is the best time to come, when the fountains and lit and the backdrop with the illuminated Hospital Real is most dramatic. Free.

  Cartuja Monastery (Monasterio de La Cartuja), Paseo de Cartuja (buses 8, C and U, Ciencias de la Educacion stop), ☎ +34 958 161 932. Winter: Daily 10:00-13:00 and 15:00-18:00; Summer: Daily 10:00-13:00 and 16:00-20:00. A spectacular example of Baroque style architecture, this monastery was commissioned in the 16th century but construction was interrupted and not completed until over three centuries later. Upon entering you'll pass through a cloister garden that serves as the building's tranquil courtyard, with small rooms splitting off from here, many with grisly paintings of martyrs meeting their fates. The single-nave church is spectacular and lavishly decorated, with the sanctuary and sacristy containing many beautifully crafted and intricate artworks. €3.50.

  San Jeronimo Monastery (Monasterio San Jeronimo), Calle Rector Lopez Argueta 9 (bus 5, Fuentenueva stop), ☎ +34 958 279 337. Summer: Daily 10:00-13:30 and 16:00-19:30; Winter: M-Sa 10:00-13:30 and 15:00-18:30. The first monastery to be built in the city after the reconquest by the Christians, this monastery is noted for its picturesque courtyards, the Spanish Baroque-style sacristy and the splendid artwork on display. €3.50.

  Basilica San Juan de Dios, Calle San Juan de Dios 15 (from bus stop Avenida Constitucion 1, walk down Calle San Juan de Dios), ☎ +34 958 275 700. A gorgeous example of the baroque granadino style with a lavishly decorated interior and the final resting place of many of Granada's saints. The place is run by some enthusiastic tour guides who are more than happy to show off the many treasures held within the building. Free, donations accepted.

  South Granada

  Defined by its proximity to the Rio Genil, the main river through Granada, the south side of town is an interesting mix of old and new. To the east, on the foothills beneath the Alhambra, sits Realejo, once the Jewish district under Muslim Granada and now a sleepy neighborhood with many scenic villas and gardens among its narrow streets. To the west, closer to the center of town, lies bustling Puerta Real. Surrounding the intersection of Calle Reyes Catolicos, Calle Recogidas and Acera Del Darro, Puerta Real is the center of modern Granada, a district of grand classical and modern buildings and the city's primary shopping destination. South of the river is a modern section of town with many apartment highrises and office buildings.

  Santo Domingo Church (Iglesia de Santo Domingo), Plaza de Santo Domingo (in Realejo; take minibuses 23, 30 and 32 to Santo Domingo stop), ☎ +34 958 227 331. Hours of worship: M-Sa 8:30-9:30 and 19:30-20:30, Su 9:30-14:00. Founded in 1512 by the Catholic Kings, this beautiful church sports a handsome stone portico entrance with a lovely painting and sculptures beneath an impressive bell tower. Inside, the high ceilings and domed sanctuary are spectacular and the chapels feature intricate artwork. Free.

  Cármen de los Mártires, Paseo de los Mártires (entrance is at the end of Paseo de los Mártires; take minibuses 30 or 32 to C.C. Manuel de Falla stop), ☎ +34 958 248 140. Summer: M-F 10:00-14:00 and 17:00-19:00, Sa-Su and holidays 10:00-19:00; Winter: M-F 10:00-14:00 and 16:00-18:00, Sa-Su and holidays 10:00-18:00. An absolutely beautiful (and huge) set of gardens near the Alhambra, this place is well worth a side trip if you have an hour or two to spare. The gardens date to the nineteenth century and have a blend of Moorish-style elements such as amble shade, decorative arches and bubbling fountains with English and French romantic style elements - one garden has an ornamental duck pond complete with statues, grottoes and follies (keep an eye out for the peacocks that wander the gardens). In addition, the views of Granada and the Alhambra from the terraces are absolutely marvelous. Free.

  Federico García Lorca Museum (Huerta de San Vicente), Virgen Blanca s/n (a block west of Camino de Ronda; buses 5, 10, 11, 21 and 22, stop C. Ronda 4), ☎ +34 958 258 466. Museum: October-March, Tu-Su 10:00-12:30 and 16:00-18:30; April-May and June-September Tu-Su 10:00-12:30 and 17:00-19:30; July-August Tu-Su 10:00-14:30. Park: daily 8:00-1:00. On the outskirts of town is this charming house that was once the summer home of poet Federico Garcia Lorca. The house-turned-museum holds the original furnishings from when he lived here in the 1920s and 30s and is pleasant enough, but the real attraction here is the splendid public park that surrounds the house that was once the family's private estate. Within the park you'll find tree-lined pathways, streams of water, a duck pond, a large rose garden, and a children's playground. Museum €3, Park free.

  Basilica Nuestra Señora de Las Angustias, C/ Carrera del Genil (on C/ Carrera de la Virgen near Puerta Real), ☎ +34 958 226 393. Open during hours of worship. The temple to Granada's patron saint, this seventeenth century church has a richly decorated interior and is a center for local Catholic processions. The evening mass held here is one of the most heavily attended
in the city and is one of the best opportunities to experience the city's religious heritage firsthand. Free.

  Rio Genil. While the river itself, which is essentially a large canal, isn't much to look at, there is a nice tree-lined promenade running alongside the river from Acera Del Darro along Paseo del Salon with some very pleasant gardens. From here a pleasant trail follows the river south out of the city into the Sierra Nevada mountains.

  Parque de las Cienicas (Science Park), Avd. de la Ciencias s/n (take buses 1 or 5 to Parque de las Ciencias stop), ☎ +34 958 131 900, [20]. Tu-Sa 10:00-19:00, Su and holidays 10:00-15:00. Four different exhibition areas with lots to see, so make good use of the 2-day ticket. Bird show every day, but take note of timing. The Al-Andalus and Science Pavilion is a major highlight, featuring unique technology brought here by the Arabs, particularly in the fields of astronomy and architecture. 6€ general, 5€ seniors and children.

  Fun Activities

  Aquaola, C/ García Lorca, 53 (in Cenes de la Vega) (take the #3 bus and at la Plaza de Villacantoria, there is a free shuttle bus every 15 minutes), ☎ +34 958 48 61 89, [21]. 15:00-20:00. A local water park with man-made wave pool, slides, and large floats. 7.50€.

  Hammam Arab Baths (Gran Hammam Baños Arabes), C/ Santa Ana, 16 (near Plaza Nueva, behind Iglesia de Santa Ana), ☎ +34 958 229 978, [22]. 10:00-24:00. A modern spa reconstructing the ambiance and decorations of the ancient Muslim baths in Granada. 22€ for bath only, 32€ bath and massage.

  Plaza de Toros de Granada, Avenida Doctor Oloriz, 14, ☎ +34 958 27 24 51, [23]. Granada's bullfighting ring. 5€.

  Shopping Highlights

  As in much of Spain, be aware of siesta - most shops close in the afternoons, which depending on the business can be anywhere from 13:00 to 17:00. The main exception to this rule is large department stores and chain stores. However, nearly everything is closed on Sundays.

  The area surrounding Puerta Real serves as the city's main shopping district. El Corte Inglés, Spain's department store chain, has a large store between Calle Acera del Darro and Calle Carrera de la Virgen just south of Puerta Real, while Calle Mesones and the adjacent pedestrian streets between Puerta Real and the Cathedral are home to a large number of fancy clothing and gift stores. If you're looking for postcards or other tourist wares, the Alcaiceria south of the Cathedral (see above under See) is chock full of souvenir shops, although you can also find plenty of souvenir shops along Cuesta de Gomerez on the way up to the Alhambra from Plaza Nueva. If a mall is more your speed, the nearest one to central Granada is the Centro Comercial Neptuno [24], on Calle Neptuno next to the freeway (take Calle Recogidas west from Puerta Real).

  Dining Guide

  Granada is notable as most of its bars will serve free tapas with each drink, which makes eating out in Granada very inexpensive - a blessing for the local student population. Lunch is generally from 13:00 to 16:00 and dinner from around 20:00 to the late hours of the night (though even at 20:00 most tapas bars will be deserted, as locals eat dinner very late).

  There are many popular restaurant areas where you are sure to find something good. Just about every plaza in town holds at least one outdoor restaurant. Calle Elvira and the adjacent streets north of Plaza Nueva have perhaps the largest concentration of tapas bars in town. Plaza San Miguel Bajo [25] is an area of outdoor fairly low priced restaurants in the Albayzín district and Calle Navas running south from the city hall in the center of the city is a pedestrian street lined with a wide variety of restaurants.

  Arrayanes, Cuesta Marañas, 4 (In the middle of the Albayzín), ☎ +34 958 22 84 01, [26]. A fine place where you can eat real Moroccan cuisine. Don't ask for wine or beer, they are not in the list, but their refreshing lemon juice or mint tea is a wonderful substitute.

  Bar Oum Kalsoum, c/ Jardines 18. 20:00-24:00 (get there early to get a table). Beautiful Arabian style tapas bar. Offers alcohol unlike many other Arabian places.

  Bar Poë, c/ Verónica de la Magdelena 40, [27]. 20:00-closing (tapas until 00:30). A tapas bar run by a friendly English couple. The free tapas here are excellent and make others look average in comparison, although they are a little small.

  Bella y Bestia, Calle Elvira. One of many tapas bars on this stretch. Big tapas and young locals.

  Café Fútbol, Plaza de Mariana Pineda 6, [28]. An excellent restaurant that serve simple free tapas with a drink but is better known for their great dishes, especially their exquisite deserts and sweets - the churros con chocolate here may be the best in town. Friendly service and good atmosphere; you can eat out in their large seating area on the plaza or inside.

  El Pescador, Calle Elvira 46. A fantastic sea-themed free tapas bar with delicious fried seafood tapas, such as octopus and squid. The service can be unfriendly, but the food and atmosphere are excellent for the price.

  Kabab King, One on Calle Reyes Catolicos and one on Calle de Elvira both within a block of Plaza Nueva, and one on Calle Pavaneras in Realejo. If you need food quick, are looking for something cheap but filling, or are just hungry for some greasy, meat-filled goodness, you can't do much better than Kabab King, a chain of shawarma and falafel stands in town serving delicious kababs and shawarmas with halal chicken and a signature yogurt sauce. 3 euros will get you a shawarma with chicken and 5 euros will get you a combo meal, and the servers are cheerful with a good grasp on English. If you want the same food in a sit-down setting, Shawarma King on Calle Reyes Catolicos just down from Plaza Nueva is an Arabic-themed restaurant which also has a large selection of teas on the menu and hookahs available. €3-€8.

  La Blanca Paloma, Reyes Catolicos, 48. Lots of different pastries, pies, croissants, coffee, and more. The selection is intense, which can make it difficult to decide what to eat! Very good attention, very friendly.

  La Oliva, Calle Rosario, 9, ☎ +34 958 22 57 54, [29]. 11:00-14:30 and 19:00-22:00. A small little shop that sells high end Spanish wine, olive oil and a number of high end items, but it also has great, small private meals. Francisco, the shops owner, is a friendly person who will warmly welcome you, speaks great English and French and is patient for those who want to try out what little Spanish they have. Wide variety of dishes, from a 1 euro olive oil tasting with fresh bread to a 10 course meal with a wine flight for 30 euros. At times Francisco will even cook the meal in front of you.

  Oryza, c/ Nueva de la Virgen, Córdoba, 12 (Off Acera del Darro, across the road from El Corte Ingles), ☎ +34 958 25 34 79, [30]. A modern take on traditional Spanish cooking. Relaxed, stylish atmosphere offering customers a choice between a busy tapas bar or a more formal restaurant dining experience.

  Bars, Clubs & Drinking

  If you want to try a local wine ask for "un costa" – the quality is extremely variable and it is more like sherry (but not fortified) than a table wine.

  Another option is "tinto de verrano", or "summer wine", which is red wine and lemon Fanta. Absolutely delicious and very refreshing.

  Accommodation Guide

  AB Pension Granada, Infanta Beatriz 3 (off Camino de Ronda - taxi recommended), ☎ +34 958 253 129, [31]. checkin: 12:00; checkout: 11:00. Comfortable new beds, inexpensive, clean, warm and helpful hostel. Free wifi at reception. Spanish family-run hostel who speak English. 12€. (37.1731403,3.6073186)

  Abadia Hotel Granada, Triana Baja 7, ☎ +34 958 271 979, [32]. checkin: 12:00; checkout: 11:00. A lovely hotel with an 16th century-style patio and decor. €49. (37.1817366077033,3.60324140643781)

  Casa Beso, Calle Beso 7, ☎ +34 958 208 892, [33]. checkin: 16:00; checkout: 12:00. Beautiful rental house with Alhambra views near Plaza Nueva. €85-150.

  Cortijo la Mata - Cottage Rental, Monachil, [34]. Andalusian villa with stunning views of Sierra Nevada Mountains, free Wi-Fi, satellite TV and swimming pool. Sleeps up to 15. from 80€UR.

  Funky Backpackers Hostel, Cuesta de Rodrigo del Campo, 13, ☎ +34 958 22 14 62 (fax: +34 958 22 05 68). A fantastic, rowdy, centrally-located hostel set in a grand old Granada townhouse.

 
Hesperia Granada, Plaza Gamboa, S/N, ☎ +34 958 018 400, [35]. A recently renovated hotel located in the old part of town. The rooms are very cozy and comfortable and the hotel offers a limousine service, dvd rental and wifi. Rooms from 69€.

  Hostal Granada Eurosol, Camino de Ronda 166, ☎ +34 958 27 99 0, [36]. Rooms have air conditioning and private bathrooms. Good location for bars, pubs, the industrial zone and Autovia Granada. Prices change with the season.

  Hostal Venecia, Cuesta Gomerez 2, [37]. Excellent location on Plaza Nueva, but hard to find as it's on the 2nd floor and the sign facing the plaza is small and high. Extremely clean & quiet for a hostel.

  Hostal Zurita, Plaza de la Trinidad, 7, ☎ +34 958 275 020. Very nice, clean and well run place near the Cathedral. Run by a friendly young couple. Rooms have air conditioning and some have private bathrooms. Some have balconies looking out on the square. Prices change with the season.