The Story of Tea

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The Story of Tea Page 48

by Mary Lou Heiss


  HUE TERMS USED TO DESCRIBE THE LIQUOR

  The color of tea ranges from pale gold to dark purple-black. As one might imagine, dark, thick black and pu-erh teas brew the darkest color. Slender, needle-like black tea leaves produce red-hued coppery colors. Oolong teas from China are golden/greenish/blue, while Taiwanese oolongs tend toward tawny golden brown. Chinese green teas are light yellow or pale green, and Japanese green teas surprise with vivid yellow-green or emerald green colors. White tea has been likened to the clear color of the full moon.

  The Master List: Color

  Amber, Artichoke, Burnt sienna, Burnt umber, Copper, Forest, Golden, Pine, Russet, Silver, Straw, Wheat, Yellow

  The Master List: Clarity

  Bright, Clear, Dark, Matte, Medium, Opaque, Pale, Sparkling, Tinged copper, Tinged golden

  White, Yellow, or Green Tea Color and Clarity Descriptors

  Color

  Amber, Artichoke, Forest, Golden, Pine, Russet, Silver, Straw, Wheat, Yellow

  Clarity

  Bright, Clear, Dark, Matte, Medium, Opaque, Pale, Sparkling, Tinged golden

  Oolong Tea Color and Clarity Descriptors

  Color

  Amber, Burnt umber, Golden, Russet, Silver, Straw, Wheat, Yellow

  Clarity

  Bright, Clear, Dark, Matte, Medium, Opaque, Pale, Sparkling, Tinged copper, Tinged golden

  Black and Pu-erh Tea Color and Clarity Descriptors

  Color

  Amber, Burnt sienna, Burnt umber, Copper, Golden, Russet

  Clarity

  Bright, Clear, Dark, Matte, Medium, Opaque, Sparkling, Tinged copper

  BIBLIOGRAPHY

  Avery, Martha. The Tea Road: China and Russia Meet Across the Steppe. Bejing, China: China Intercontinental Press, 2003.

  Bliss, Marion. “Brewing Up the Latest Tea Research.” Agricultural Research Magazine, United States Department of Agriculture, Agricultural Research Service (September 2003).

  Blofeld, John. The Chinese Art of Tea. Boston: Shambhala Publications, 1997.

  Breen, T. H. The Marketplace of Revolution: How Consumer Politics Shaped American Independence. New York: Oxford University Press, 2004.

  Chen, Ke Lun. Chinese Porcelain: Art, Elegance and Appreciation (English edition). San Francisco: Long River Press, 2004.

  Chow, Kit, and Ione Kramer. All the Tea in China. San Francisco: China Books and Periodicals, 1990.

  Chuen, Lam Kam. The Way of Tea. Hauppauge, NY: Barron’s, 2002.

  Dattner, Christine. The Book of Green Tea. New York: Universe Publishing, 2002.

  Emerson, Julie. Coffee, Tea, and Chocolate Wares in the Collection of the Seattle Art Museum. Seattle, WA: Seattle Art Museum, 1991.

  Evans, John C. Tea in China: The History of China’s National Drink. Westport, CT: Greenwood Press, 1992.

  Faulkner, Rupert. Tea East & West. London: V&A Publications, 2003.

  Gardella, Robert. Harvesting Mountains: Fujian and the China Tea Trade, 1757–1937. Berkeley, CA: University of California Press, 1994.

  Gascoigne, Bamber. The Dynasties of China. New York: Carroll & Graf, 2003.

  Goodwin, Jason. The Gunpowder Gardens: Travels through India and China in Search of Tea. London: Chatto & Windus, 1990.

  Graham, Patricia J. Tea of the Sages: The Art of Sencha. Honolulu, HI: University of Hawai’i Press, 1998.

  Hudgins, Sharon. “Raw Liver, Singed Sheep’s Head, and Boiled Stomach Pudding: Encounters with Traditional Buriat Cuisine.” Sibirica, vol. 3, no. 2 (October 2003): 131–152

  Isao, Kumakura, and Marybeth Stock. Flowers and Wagashi: Traditional Japanese Confections. Tokyo: Toraya Confectionary Ltd., 1998.

  Kuroda, Ryöji, and Takeshi Murayama. Classic Stoneware of Japan: Shino and Oribe. Tokyo: Kodansha International Ltd., 2002.

  Lange, Amanda. Chinese Export Art at Historic Deerfield. Deerfield, MA: Historic Deerfield, 2005.

  Lee, Ki Won, and Hyong Joo Lee. “Antioxidant Activity of Black Tea vs. Green Tea.” The Journal of Nutrition 132 (April 2002): 785.

  Leung, Lai Kwok, et al. “Theaflavins in Black Tea and Catechins in Green Tea Are Equally Effective Antioxidants.” The Journal of Nutrition 131 (September 2001): 2248–2251

  MacFarlane, Alan, and Iris MacFarlane. The Empire of Tea. Woodstock, NY: Overlook Press, 2004.

  Mah, Adeline Yen. Watching the Tree: A Chinese Daughter Reflects on Happiness, Tradition and Spiritual Wisdom. New York: Broadway Books, 2001.

  Maitland, Derek. 5,000 Years of Tea: A Pictorial Companion. New York: Gallery Books, 1982.

  Manchester, Carole. Tea in the East. New York: Hearst Books, 1996.

  McKay, Diane L., and Jeffrey B. Blumberg. “The Role of Tea in Human Health: An Update.” Journal of the American College of Nutrition vol. 21, no. 1 (2002): 1–13.

  Mowry, Robert D. Hare’s Fur, Tortoise Shell, and Partridge Feathers: Chinese Brown-and-Black-Glazed Ceramics, 400–1400. Cambridge, MA: Harvard University Art Museums, 1996.

  Mueller, Shirley Maloney. “Seventeenth Century Chinese Export Teapots: Imagination and Diversity.” Orientations: The Magazine for Collectors and Connoisseurs of Asian Art, October 2005: 59–65.

  Okakura, Kakuzo. The Book of Tea. Tokyo: Kodansha International Ltd., 2005.

  Paludan, Ann. Chronicle of the Chinese Emperors: The Reign-by-Reign Record of the Rulers of Imperial China. New York: Thames & Hudson, 1998.

  Pan, Chunfang. Yixing Pottery: The World in Chinese Tea Culture (English edition). San Francisco: Long River Press, 2004.

  Pasqualini, Dominique T., and Bruno Suet. The Time of Tea. Paris: Vilo Publishing International, 2002.

  Pei, Fang Jing. Treasures of the Chinese Scholar. New York and Tokyo: Weatherhill, 1997.

  Pos, Tania M. Buckrell. Tea & Taste: The Visual Language of Tea. Atglen, PA: Schiffer Publishing, 2004.

  Quingzheng, Wang, Rosemary E. Scott, and Jennifer Chen. Serene Pleasure: The Jinglexuan Collection of Chinese Ceramics. Seattle, WA: Seattle Art Museum, 2001.

  Riccardi, Victoria Abbott. Untangling My Chopsticks: A Culinary Sojourn in Kyoto. New York: Broadway, 2003.

  Rosen, Diana. The Book of Green Tea. North Adams, MA: Storey Books, 1998.

  Sadler, A. L. Cha-No-Yu: The Japanese Tea Ceremony. Boston: Tuttle Publishing, 2001.

  Schapira, Joel, David Schapira, and Karl Shapira. The Book of Coffee & Tea: A Guide to the Appreciation of Fine Coffees, Teas, and Herbal Beverages. New York: St. Martin’s Press, 1975.

  Sensabaugh, David Ake. The Scholar as Collector: Chinese Art at Yale. New Haven, CT: Yale University Art Gallery, 2004.

  Sheeks, Robert H. “Tea Bowls of the Himalayan and Mongolian Peoples.” Arts of Asia, March/April 1992: 72–79.

  Smith, Paul J. Taxing Heaven’s Storehouse: Horses, Bureaucrats, and the Destruction of the Sichuan Tea Industry, 1074–1224. Cambridge, MA: Council on East Asian Studies, Harvard University, 1991.

  Smith, Robert. “Whence the Samovar?” Petits Propos Culinaires 4 (February 1980): 57–72.

  Soshitsu XV, Sen. The Japanese Way of Tea from Its Origins in China to Sen Rikyu. Honolulu, HI: University of Hawai’i Press, 1998.

  Spiller, Gene A. Caffeine. Boca Raton, FL: CRC Press, 1998.

  Stella, Alain. Mariage Frères French Tea: Three Centuries of Savoir-Faire. Paris: Flammarion, 2003.

  Stella, Alain, Gilles Brochard, and Catherine Donzel. The Book of Tea (revised edition). Paris: Flammarion, 2005.

  Stinchecum, Amanda Mayer. “Making Tea.” Saveur, September/October 1994: 68–78.

  ———. “Steeped in Tea.” Saveur, April/May 2003: 25–30.

  Tokunaga, Mutsuko. New Tastes in Green Tea: A Novel Flavor for Familiar Drinks, Dishes, and Desserts. Tokyo, Japan: Kodansha International, 2004.

  Ukers, William H. All About Tea, Volumes 1 and II. New York: Tea and Coffee Trade Journal, 1935.

  Vitell, Bettina. The World in a Bowl of Tea. New York: HarperCollins, 1997.

  Yu, Lu. The Classic of Tea (translated by Francis Ross Carpenter).
Boston: Little, Brown and Company, 1974.

  About the Authors

  Mary Lou Heiss and Robert J. Heiss have owned and operated Cooks Shop Here, a purveyor of fine tea and other specialty food products since 1974. Mary Lou is also the author of Green Tea and coauthor of Hot Drinks with Robert. When not traveling to source teas and other ingredients for their shop, they make their home in western Massachusetts, where Robert’s lively food radio program can be heard each week. The Heisses’s deep respect for and passionate interest in artisan food products, traditional foods, and the history and evolution of world cuisines bring a global perspective to their work.

  Visit www.cooksshophere.com and www.teatrekker.com

  INDEX

  A

  Adams, Samuel

  African teas. See also individual countries

  Alishan oolong tea

  Ambangulu Estate

  Anhui province, China, 4.1, 4.2, 4.3

  Antioxidants, 8.1, 8.2

  Anxi, China

  Aracha, 3.1, 4.1, 4.2

  Argentina, 2.1, 4.1, 4.2

  Arita, Japan, 4.1, 7.1

  Artisan teas, 3.1, 3.2, 6.1, 9.1

  Assam bush (Camellia sinensis var. assamica)

  climate preferences of

  cultivating

  growing habit of, 2.1, 2.2, 2.3

  history of, 1.1, 1.2, 4.1

  Assam tea

  climate and, 4.1, 4.2, 4.3

  growing regions for

  history of, 1.1, 1.2

  Indian Black Tea, Corn, and Mushroom Soup

  Kama Black

  production of, 4.1, 4.2

  quality of

  Savory Chinese Marbled Eggs (Cha Ye Dan)

  Auctions, 4.1, 4.2

  Australia

  Azukebachi

  B

  Bai Hao Jasmine (Silver Needles Jasmine)

  Bai Hao oolong tea

  Bai Hao Yin Zhen (Flowery White Pekoe or Silver Needle), 3.1, 3.2, 4.1, 4.2, 4.3, 5.1

  Bai Ji Guan (White Cockscomb)

  Bai Mudan (White Peony), 3.1, 3.2, 4.1, 5.1

  Baisao

  Balfour, Eve

  Bamboo Tips (Zhu Ye Qing), 3.1, 4.1, 4.2, 4.3

  Bancha

  Bangladesh, 4.1, 4.2

  Banks, Joseph

  Baozhong oolong tea, 4.1, 4.2

  Barak Valley, 4.1, 4.2

  Basket-firing

  Beeng cha, 3.1, 3.2, 4.1

  Bergamot

  Bi Lo Chun. See Green Snail Spring

  Biodynamic Agriculture method

  Bizen, Japan

  Black tea

  antioxidants in, 8.1, 8.2

  Chinese

  classic leaf styles of

  color and clarity descriptors for

  defined

  discovery of

  flavor (taste) components of

  Indian, 4.1, 4.2, 4.3

  Indonesian

  Kenyan

  manufacture of

  Nepalese

  oxidation in, 3.1, 3.2, 3.3

  Sri Lankan, 4.1, 4.2

  steeping time for

  storing

  styles of, 3.1, 5.1

  Tanzanian, 4.1, 5.1

  Vietnamese

  water temperature for brewing

  Blooming Heart

  Blue tea. See Oolong tea

  Bohea, 4.1, 4.2

  Boston Tea party, 1.1, 1.2

  Böttger, Johann Friedrich

  Brahmaputra Valley, 4.1, 4.2

  Branded tea

  Brewing

  caffeine levels and

  measuring for

  methods for

  steeping time for

  tips for

  water for

  yield and

  Brick tea, 4.1, 4.2, 7.1

  Bruce, C. A.

  Bruce, Robert

  Buddhism, 1.1, 1.2, 2.1, 4.1, 4.2, 7.1, 7.2

  Burundi

  Butter tea, 7.1, 7.2, 7.3

  C

  Caffeine

  Cai Xiang

  Cake, Green Tea Chiffon, with Walnuts and Crystallized Ginger

  California Certified Organic Farmers (CCOF)

  Camellia sinensis

  alternative nomenclature for

  var. assamica (Assam bush), 1.1, 1.2, 2.1, 2.2, 2.3, 2.4, 4.1

  var. cambodi (Java bush), 2.1

  var. shan, 4.1

  var. sinensis (China bush), 2.1, 2.2, 4.1

  Cameroon

  Campbell, A.

  Caravans, 1.1, 2.1, 4.1, 4.2, 7.1

  Catechins, 3.1, 4.1, 8.1

  Catherine the Great, Empress (Russia), 4.1, 7.1, 7.2

  Ceramics

  American

  Chinese, 7.1, 7.2

  European

  Japanese, 4.1, 7.1, 7.2, 7.3

  Korean, 4.1, 7.1

  Russian

  Ceylon tea, 4.1, 5.1

  Ceylon Tea Museum

  Chabana flower arranging

  Chae Won-Hwa

  Chainik

  Chakvi Tea Press Factory

  Champagne oolong tea

  Chanoyu, 1.1, 4.1, 7.1, 7.2, 7.3, 7.4

  Chaoqing

  Chasens

  Chawans

  Cha Ye Dan (Savory Chinese Marbled Eggs)

  Cheviet

  China

  black teas of

  character for tea in, 1.1, 8.1

  consumption of tea in

  distribution system in

  famous teas of, 4.1, 4.2

  green teas of, 4.1, 4.2, 4.3

  growing regions of, 4.1, 4.2, 4.3

  history of tea in, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 1.5

  leaf styles in

  oolong teas of, 4.1, 4.2, 4.3

  protection policy of, 4.1, 4.2, 4.3, 4.4

  pu-erh teas of

  seasons of tea in

  tea culture in

  tea production in, 4.1, 4.2, 4.3, 4.4, 4.5

  Western trade with, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 4.1

  white teas of

  yellow teas of

  China bush (Camellia sinensis var. sinensis), 2.1, 2.2, 4.1

  Chinese Lantern

  Chingwo

  Chinoiserie

  Choi Beom-sul

  Chōjirō

  Chongja ware

  Chong Yak-yong

  Ch’o Ui

  Chung-ch’a

  Chutney

  Cinnamon Tea (Roi Gui)

  Clams in Sweet White Miso and Green Tea Broth

  Clarity descriptors

  Color descriptors

  Concentrates

  Confucianism, 1.1, 4.1

  Congo

  Cooking tips. See also Recipes

  Corn, Indian Black Tea, and Mushroom Soup

  Craigmore Estate Nilgiri white tea

  Creaming

  CTC (cut-tear-curl) tea

  grades of

  manufacture of, 3.1, 3.2, 3.3, 3.4

  price of

  Curled Dragon Silver Tips (Pan Long Yin Hao)

  D

  Da Hong Pao (Royal Red Robe), 4.1, 4.2, 4.3, 4.4, 5.1

  Dan Gui

  Dan Yan tea

  Daoism

  Darjeeling Planters Association

  Darjeeling tea

  autumnals, 4.1, 5.1

  Castleton Garden

  climate and

  estates by valley

  history of, 1.1, 4.1

  logo for

  Nepalese tea blended with

  production of, 4.1, 4.2

  seasonal flushes of, 4.1, 4.2

  terroir and

  Dayeh tea

  Decaffeination

  Demeter-International e. V.

  De Milde, Ary

  Desserts

  Green Tea Chiffon Cake with Walnuts and Crystallized Ginger

  Green Tea Pot de Crème

  Lapsang Souchong and Jasmine Tea Ice Cream

  White Tea Snow Sorbet

  Devens, Richard

  De Worms, Solomon and Gabriel

  Dhool, 3.1, 3.
2

  Diancha fa

  Dimbula tea, 4.1, 5.1

  Display teas, 3.1, 6.1

  Dong Han

  Dong Ting Bi Lo Chun

  Dorghon

  Double-Dragon with Pearl

  Dragon Pearls, 4.1, 4.2, 5.1

  Dragon Well. See Longjing tea

  Duck Breasts, Spicy Oolong-Smoked

  Dutch East Indies Company

  Du Yu

  Duyun Mao Jian

  E

  Earl Green

  Earl Grey, 3.1, 5.1

  Echizen, Japan

  EFTA (European Fair Trade Association)

  Eggs, Savory Chinese Marbled (Cha Ye Dan)

  Eisai, Myoan, 1.1, 4.1

  Eishunnji Temple, 7.1, 7.2

  Elizabeth, Empress (Russia)

  England

  history of tea in, 1.1, 1.2

  India and, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3

  organic standards in, 9.1, 9.2

  tea production in

  trade with China, 1.1, 1.2

  English East India Company, 1.1, 1.2

  Ethical Tea Partnership (ETP)

  Ethiopia

  Europe

  organic standards in, 9.1, 9.2, 9.3

  tea culture in

  F

  Fair trade

  Famille rose

  Famille verte

  Federation of Korean Tea Masters Society

  Fencai

  Fenghuang Dan Cong oolong tea, 4.1, 4.2, 4.3

  Fermentation, 3.1, 3.2, 4.1

  FINE

  Flagstaff House Museum of Tea Wares, 7.1, 7.2

  Flavonoids

  Flavor (taste) components

  Flavored tea

  FLO (Fairtrade Labelling Organisation) International

  Flower arranging

  Flower-scented tea, 3.1, 3.2

  Flowery White Pekoe. See Bai Hao Yin Zhen

  Formosa Fancy Silvertips

  Fortune, Robert, 1.1, 1.2, 4.1

  Free radicals

  Fresh tea

  Fruit-infused tea

  Fujian province, China

  black teas of, 4.1, 4.2

  green teas of

  oolong teas of, 3.1, 4.1, 4.2

  white teas of, 3.1, 4.1

  Fukamushi Sencha, 4.1, 4.2

  Fukujuen Tea Research Center

  Fulu oolong tea

  Fur Trip (Xin Yang Mao Jian)

  G

  Gaiwans, 1.1, 6.1, 7.1

  Gan lu

  Genmaicha

  Georgia (country)

  Germany

  history of tea in

  organic standards and certification in, 9.1, 9.2

 

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