Journal of a Residence among the Negroes in the West Indies

by Matthew Gregory Lewis

  MARCH 28.

  I have been positively assured that an attempt was made to persuade the grand jury at Montego Bay to present me for overindulgence tomy own negroes! It is a great pity that so reasonable an attempt should not have succeeded. The rebel captain who broke out of prison has been found concealed in the hut of a notorious Obeah-man, and has been lodged a second time in the jail of Savannah-la-Mar.

  MARCH 29.

  About two months ago, a runaway cooper belonging to Shrewsbury estate, by name Edward, applied to me to intercede for his not being punished on his return home. As soon as he got the paper, he gave up all idea of returning to the estate, and instead of it went about the country stealing everything upon which he could lay his hands; and whenever his proceedings were inquired into by the magistrates, he stated himself to be on the road to his trustee, and produced my letter as a proof of it. At length some one had the curiosity to open the letter, and found that it bad been written two months before.

  MARCH 30.

  This was the day appointed for the first " Royal play-day," when I bade farewell to my negroes. I expected to be besieged with petitions and complaints, as they must either make them on this occasion or not at all. I was, therefore, most agreeably surprised to find, that although they had opportunities of addressing me from nine in the morning till twelve at night the only favours asked of me were by a poor old man, who wanted an iron cookingpot, and by Adam, who begged me ot order a kittke daughter of his to be instructed in needle-work : and as to complaints, not a murmur of such a thing was heard ; they all expressed themselves to be wuite satisfied, and seemed to think that they could never say enough to mark their gratitude for my kindness, and their anxiety for my getting safe to England. we began our festival by the head driver's drinking the health of H. R. H. the Duchess of York, whom the negroes cheered with such a shout as might have " rent hell's concave."

  Then we had a christening of such persons as had been absent on the former occasion, one of whom was Adam, the repute Obeah-man. In the number was a new-born child, whom we called Sheakespeare, and whom Afra, the Eboe mother, had very earnestly begged me to make a Christian, as well as a daughter of hers about four or five years old, at the same time that she declined being christened herself ! In the same manner Cubina's wife, although her father and husband wer both baptized on the former occasion, objected to going through the ceremony herself ; amd the reason which she gave was, that " she did not know what change it might not produce upon herslef and the infant."

  After the christening there was a general distribution of saltfish by the trustee ; and I also gave every man and woman half a dollar each, and every child a maccarony (fifteen pence) as a parting present, to show them that I parted with them in good humour. While the money was distributing young Hill arrived, and finding the house completely crowded, inquired what was the matter. " Oh, massa," said an old woman, " it is only my son , who is giving the negroes all something."

  I also read to them a new code of laws, which I had ordered to be put in force at Cornwall for the better security of the negroes. The principal were, that " a new hospital for the lying-in women, and for those who might be seriously ill, shuld be built, and made as comfortable as possible ; while the present one should be reserved for those whom the physicians might declare to be slightly indisposed, or not ill at all ;---the doors being kept constantly locked, and the sexes placed in separate chambers, to prevent its being made a place of amusement by the azy and the lying, as is the case at present."--" A book register of punishments to be kept, in which the name, offence, and nature and quantity of punishments inflicted must be carefully put down, and also a note of the same given to the negro, in order that, if he should think himself unjustly, or too severely punished, he may show his note to my other attorney on his next visit, ot to myslefon my return to Jamaica, and thus get redress if he has been wronged."-"No negro is to be struck or punished in any way without the trustee's express orders: the black driver so offending to be immediately degraded and sent to work in the field; and the white person, for such a breach of my orders, to be discharged upon the spot."-" No negro is to be punished till twenty-four hours shall have elapsed between his committing the fault and suffering for it, in order that nothing should be done in the heat of passion, but that the trustee should have time to consider the matter coolly. But to prevent a guilty person from avoiding punishment by running away, he is to pass those twenty-four hours in such confinement as the trustee may think most fitting."--" Any white person, who can be proved to have had an improper connection witb a woman known publicly to be living as the wife of one of my negroes, is to be discharged im- mediately upon complaint being made." I also gave the head driver a complete list of the allowances of clothing, food, &c., to which the negroes were entitled, in order that they might apply to it if they should have any doubts as to their having received their full proportion. My new rules seemed to add greatly to the satisfactionof the negroes, who were profuse in their expressions of gratitude.

  The festival concluded with a grander ball than usual, as I sent for music from Savannah-la-Mar to play country-dances to them ; and at twelve o'clock at night. they left me apparently much pleased, only I heard them saying to each other, "When shall we have such a day of pleasure again, since massa goes to- morrow?"

  MARCH 31. (Sunday.)

  With their usual levity the negroes were laughing and talkink as gaily as ever till the very moment of my departure ; but when , they saw my curricle actually at the door to convey me away, then their faces grew very long indeed. In particular, the women called me by every endearing name they could think of. " My son! my love ! my husband ! my father !" " You no my massa, you my tata!" said one old woman ; and when I came down the steps to depart, they crowded about me, kissing my feet and clasping my knees, so that it was with difficulty that I cold get into the carriage. And this was done with such marks of truth and feeling, that I cannot believe the whole to be mere acting and mummery.

  I dined with Mr. Allwood at Shaftstone, near Blue-fields, and half-past seven found myself once more on board the " Sir Godfrey Webster."

  YARRA.

  Poor Yarra comes to bid farewell,

  But Yarra!s lips can never say it!

  Her swimming eyes-her bosom's swell-

  The debt she owes you, these must pay it.

  She ne'er can speak, though tears can start,

  Her grief, that fate so soon removes you;

  But One there is, who reads the heart,

  And well He knows how Yarra loves you!

  See, massa, see this sable boy!

  When chill disease had nipp'd his flower,

  You came and spoke the word of joy,

  And poured the juice of healing power.,

  To visit far Jamaica's shore

  Had no kind angel deign'd to move you,

  These laughing eyes had laugh'd Do more,

  Nor Yarra lived to thank and love you.

  Then grieve not, massa, that to view

  Our isle you left your English pleasures:

  One tear, which falls in grateful dew,

  Is worth the best of Britain's treasures.

  And sure, the thought will bring relief,

  Whate'er your fate, wherever rove you,

  Your wealth's not gained through pain and grief,

  But given by bands and hearts that love you.

  May He, who bade you cross the wave,

  Through care for Afric's sons and daughters;

  When round your bark the billows rave,

  In safety guide you through the waters!

  By all you love with smiles be met ;

  Through life each good man's tongue approve you:

  And though far distant, don't forget,

  While Yarra lives, she'll live to love you

  APRIL 1.

  At eight this morning we weighed anchor on our return to England. The trade-winds, which facilitate the passage to Jamaica,

  effectually
prevent the return of vessels by the same road. The common passage is through the Gulf of Florida, but there is another between Cuba and St. Domingo, which is at least 1000 miles nearer. The first, however, affords almost a certainty of reaching Europe in a given time, while you may keep tacking in the attempt to make the windward passage (as it is called) for months together. Last pigbt, however, the wind was so favour- able for this attempt, that the captain determined upon risking it. Accordingly he altered his course; but had not done so for more than a few hours when the wind changed, and became as direct for the Gulf as till then it bad been contrary. The consequence was, that the Gulf passage was fixed once for all, and we are now steering towards it with all our might and main. Besides the distance saved there was another reason for preferring the windward passage, if it could have been effected. The Gulf of Florida has for some time past been infested by a pirate called Captain Mitchell, who, by all accounts, seems to be a gentleman of the very worst description. It is not long ago since, in company with another vessel of his own stamp, he landed on the small settlement of St. Andrew's, plundered it completely, and on his departure carried off the governor, whom he kept on board, for more than fourteen days, and then hung him at the yard-arm out of mere wanton devilry. His companion has been captured and brought into Kingston, and the conquering vessel is gone in search of Captain Mitchell. If it does not fall in with him, and we do, I fear that we shall stand but a bad chance ; for he has one hundred men on board according to report, while we have not above thirty. However, the captain has harangued them, represented the necessity of their fighting if attacked, as Captain Mitchell is known to spare no one, high or low, and has engaged. to give every man five guineas a-piece if a gun should be fired., The sailors promise bravery; what their promises will prove we must leave to be decided by time and Captain Mitchell. In the meanwhile, every sail that appears on the horizon is concluded to be this terrible pirate, and everything is immediately put in readiness for action.

  APRIL 15.

  At noon this day we found ourselves once more sailing on the Atlantic, and bade farewell to the Gulf of Florida without having heard any news of the dreaded Commodore Mitchell. The narrow and dangerous part of the Gulf is about two hundred miles in length, and fifty in breadth, bordered on one side by the coast of Florida, and on the other, first by Cuba, and then by the Bahama Islands, of which the Manilla reef forms the ex- tremity, which reef also terminates the Gulf. But on both sides of these two hundred miles, at the distance of about four or five miles from the main-land, there extends a reef which renders the navigation extremely dangerous. This reef is broken at intervals by large inlets; and the sudden and violent squalls of wind to which the Gulf is subject, so frequently drive vessels into these perilous openings, that it is worth the while of many of the poorer inhabitants of Florida to establish their habitations within the reef, and devote themselves and their small vessels entirely to the occupation of assisting vessels in distress. They as known by the general name of " wreckers," and are allowed a certain salvage upon such ships as they may rescue. As a proof of the violence of the gales which are occasionally experienced in this gulf, our captain, about nine years ago, saw the wind suddenly take a vessel (which had unwisely suffered her canvass to stand, while the rest of the ships under convoy had taken theirs in) turn her completely over, the sails in the water and the keel uppermost. It happened about four o'clock in the afternoon the captain and the passengers were at dinner in the cabin ; but as she went over very leisurely, they and the crew had time allowed them to escape out of the windows and port-holes, and sustain themselves upon the rigging, till boats from, the ships near them could arrive to take them off. As she filled, she gradually sunk, and in a quarter of an hour she had totally disappeared.

  APRIL 20.

  Our Captain told me that, tow or three years ago, whilst his vessel eas lying in Black River, for the purpose of loading, a negro contrived to secrete himself in the lower part of it, where the sugar hogsheads are stored, unknown to anyone. As soon as the carg was completed, the planks above it were caulked down, and raised no more till their ship reached Liverpool; when, to the universal astonishment, upon opening the hold, out walked Mungo, in a wretched condition to be sure, but still at least alive, and a freeman in Great Britain. During his painful voyage he had subsisted entirely upon sugar, of which he had consumed nearly a hogshead; how he managed for water I could not learn, nor can imagine.

  APRIL 27.

  Many years ago, a new species of grass was imported into Jamaica, by Mr. Vassal (to whom an estate near my own then belonged), as he said " for the purpose of feeding his pigs and his book-keepers" Its seeds being soon scattered about by the birds, it has taken possession of the cane-pieces, whence to eradicate it is an utter impossibility, the roots being as strong as those of ginger, and insinuating themselves under ground to a great extent ; so that the only means of preventing it from entirely choking up the canes, is plucking it out with the hand, which is obliged to be done frequently, and has increased the labour of the plantation at least one third. This nuisance, which is called " Vassal's grass," from its original introducer, has now com- pletely overrun the parish of Westmoreland, has begun to show itself in the neighbouring parishes, and probably in time will get a footing throughout the island. St. Thomas's in the East has been inoculated with another self-inflicted plague, under the name of " the rifle-ant," which was imported for the purpose of eating up the ants of the country ; and so to be sure they did , but into the bargain they eat up every thing else which came in their way, a practice in which they persist to this hour; so that it may be doubted whether in Jamaica most execrations are bestowed in the course of the day upon Vassal's grass, the rifleants, Sir Charles Price's rats, or the Reporter of the African Society ; onl that the maledictions uttered against the first three are necessarily local, while the Reporter of the African' Society comes in for curses from all quarters.

  APRIL 30(Tuesday.)

  A whole calendar month has elapsed since our quitting Jamaica, during which the wind has been favourable for somthing less than four-and-twenty hours; either it has blown precisely from the point on which we wanted to sail, or has been so faint that we scarcely made one knot an hour. However, on Tuesday lot, finding ourselves in the latitude of the " still-vexed Bermoothes," by way of variety, a sudden squall carried away both our lower stunsails in the morning; and at nine in the evening there came on a gale of wind truly tremendous. The ship pitched and rolled every minute, as if she had been on the point of overturning; the hen-coops floated about the deck, and many of the poultry were found drowned in them the next morning. Just as the last dead-light was being put up, the sea embraced the opportunity of the window being open, to whip itself through, and half filled the after-cabin with water; and in half an hour more a mountain of waves broke over the vessel, and pouring itself through the sky-light, paid the same compliment to the fore-cabin. About four in the morning the storm abated, and then we relapsed into our good old jog-trot pace of a knot an hour. Our passengers consist of a Mrs. Walker with her two children, and a sick surgeon of the name of Ashman.

  MAY 7.

  A negro song.--" Me take my cutacoo (i.e. a basket made of matting), and follow him to Lucea, and all for love of my bonny man-O--My bonny man come home, come home ! Doctor no do you good. When neger fall into neger bands, buckra doctor no do him good more. Come home, my gold ring, come home ! " This is the song of a wife, whose husband had been Obeahed by another woman, in consequence of his rejecting her advances.

  A negro riddle: " Pretty Miss Nancy was going to market, and she tore her fine yellow gown, and there was not a tailor in all the town who could mend it again." This is a ripe plantain with a broken skin.

  The negroes are also very fond of what they call Nancy stories, part of which is related, and part sung. The heroine of one of them is an old woman named Mamma Luna, who having left a pot boiling in her hut, found it robbed on her return. Her suspicions were divided between two child
ren whom she found at play near her door, and some negroes who had passed that way to market. The children denied the theft positively. It was necessary for the negroes, in order to reach their own estate, to wade through a river at that time almost dry; and on their return, Mammy Luna (who, it should seem, was not without some skill in witchcraft) warned them to take care in venturing across the stream, for that the water would infallibly rise and carry away the person who had stolen the contents of her pot; but if the thief would but confess the offence, she engaged that no harm should happen, as she only wanted to exculpate the innocent, and not to punish the guilty. One and all denied the charge, and several crossed the river without fear or danger; but upon the approach of a belly-woman to the bank, she was observed to hesitate. " My neger, my neger," said Mammy Luria, " why you stop? me tink, you savee well, who thief me? This accusation spirited up the woman, who instantly marched into the river, singing as she went (and the woman's part is always chanted frequently in chorus, which the negroes pM taking up the sing ") -

  If da me cat Mammy Luna's pease-0,

  Drowny me water, drowny, drowny!"

  "My neger, my neger," cried the old woman, " me sure now you the thief ! me see the water wet you feet. Come back, my neger, come back." Still on went the woman, and still continued her song of "If da me cat Mammy Luna's pease;" &e,.

  My neger, my neger," repeated Mammy Luna, "me no want punish you ; my pot smell good, and you belly-woman. Come back, my neger, come back; me see now water above your knee! " But the woman was obstinate ; she continued to sing and to advance till she reached the middle of the river's bed, when down came a tremendous flood, swept her away, and she never was heard of more ; while Mammy Luna warned the other negroes never to take the property of another ; always to tell the truth; and, at least, if they should be betrayed into telling a lie, not to persist in it, otherwise they must expect to perish like their companion. Observe, that a moral is always an indispensable part of a Nancy-story.