Beam, Straight Up

by Fred Noe

  CONTENTS

  Prologue

  Foreword

  Chapter 1: A Little History

  Chapter 2: A Kentucky Boyhood

  Chapter 3: Booker: Yes, Sir.

  Chapter 4: College Man

  Chapter 5: Starting Out

  Chapter 6: The Making of a Bourbon Ambassador

  Chapter 7: Road Warrior

  Chapter 8: The World Isn’t As Big As I Thought

  Chapter 9: Bourbon and Change

  Chapter 10: The Beam Way

  Chapter 11: Home

  Appendix

  Acknowledgments

  Supplemental Images

  Index

  Cover image: Matt Barton

  Cover design: Paul McCarthy

  Copyright © 2012 by Jim Beam Brands Co. All rights reserved.

  Published by John Wiley & Sons, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey.

  Published simultaneously in Canada.

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  Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data:

  Noe, Fred.

  Beam, straight up : the bold story of the first family of bourbon / Fred Noe and Jim Kokoris.

  p. cm.

  Includes index.

  ISBN 978-1-118-37836-6 (cloth); ISBN 978-1-118-43813-8 (ebk); ISBN 978-1-118-43815-2 (ebk); ISBN 978-1-118-43810-7 (ebk)

  1. James B. Beam Distilling Company—History. 2. Noe, Fred. 3. Beam, James B., 1864-1947—Family. 4. Distillers—United States—Biography. 5. Whiskey industry—United States—History. I. Kokoris, Jim. II. Title.

  HD9395.U47J366 2012

  338.7’663522092273—dc23

  2012026256

  To my family, past, present, and future.

  PROLOGUE

  When they first asked me to write a book about my life, I wasn’t too keen on the idea. I’m not big on books, haven’t read as many as I probably should. Besides, I wasn’t sure I had that much to say. But the more I thought about it, the more I warmed to the idea. I guess my life’s as interesting as some, so why not?

  Now, there’ve been books written about bourbon before. There’ve even been books written about my family and the company that they built, Beam Inc. So rather than go over subjects that have been covered, I thought I’d offer a little bit of everything: the history of the Jim Beam family and my memories of growing up in it; the history of bourbon and how it’s made; and the things I’ve learned from being the master distiller and ambassador of one of the world’s most recognizable brands, Jim Beam® Bourbon. And, just in case you’re thinking of starting your own business, I added my views, thoughts, and recommendations—free of charge—on how build a brand and a company for the long haul. I think I have a little insight into that, considering we’re more than 200 years old.

  I guess in the end, this book is part entertainment, part educational, and maybe, just maybe a little inspirational. So sit back and pour yourself a drink. I had a big time writing this thing; hopefully you’ll have just as big a time reading it.

  —Fred Noe,

  Jim Beam’s great-grandson and

  Master Distiller and Global Bourbon

  Ambassador of Beam Inc.

  FOREWORD

  I like things honest and real. That’s why I like Fred Noe and the Jim Beam family. No pretensions, no smoke and mirrors, no posturing or posing. Just straightforward people, making a straightforward whiskey.

  When I heard Fred was working on a book, my first thought was, “It’s about time.” He has stories to tell: about his family, particularly his larger-than-life father, Booker; about the whiskey he makes, which I’m proud to be sponsored by; and about himself. I’ve known Fred for years; he’s a natural entertainer—he’s lived the life—and this book is pure entertainment.

  It’s also educational, offering its fair share of history. For more than 200 years, the Beam family has been part of our culture, the quintessential American company. Started on the frontier in the foothills of the Appalachians, it grew while our country grew. For seven generations the Beams persevered, making whiskey enjoyed by presidents, Civil War generals, musicians, writers, but most important, everyday people. For seven generations they’ve put their special craft first and worked hard at keeping a proud tradition alive: Jim Beam Bourbon, an American icon, known the world over.

  So here’s to Fred and the Beams. Pioneers, artists, craftsmen, scientists—whiskey rock ’n’ rollers no doubt!

  And here’s to a great book.

  Cheers,

  Kid Rock

  CHAPTER 1

  A LITTLE HISTORY

  I was born on March 9, 1957, in the Baptist Hospital in Louisville, Kentucky. At first, my grandfather, my mother’s father, refused to come see me because he was a serious Catholic and didn’t like the idea of me being born in a place where you could eat meat on Fridays. But he eventually came and we all went home in a brand new 1957 Ford Fairlane that my dad, Booker, bought just for the occasion. My dad said his son was coming home in style, so he ran his bank account down to $21 to buy that car, which was kind of a waste because I don’t remember that drive at all. But Booker had a flair for the dramatic, so that’s how I arrived in Bardstown, Kentucky, the Bourbon Capital of the World, a seventh-generation, soon-to-be whiskey-making Beam.

  That’s the official, birth-certificate beginning of my story, but my story really starts a lot earlier—way back around 1790. That’s when—sit down now, this might take a while—my great-great-great-great-grandfather Jacob Beam crossed over into Kentucky from Maryland through the Cumberland Gap with his wife, Mary. Jacob was of German descent; his name was originally spelled “Boehm” and he, like a lot of peop
le, was pushing westward, looking for a place he could put down roots, make a life.

  He found that place near Hardin Creek in what’s now Washington County in central Kentucky. It was a nice tract of land, about 100 acres, close to good streams and rivers, and he went to work on it right away. Germans like to work. Work is fun for them. So he went at it hard, raising hogs, cattle, horses, and tobacco, but mostly corn. Corn was king in Kentucky back then. The hot summers, the warmer winters, and spring water made it a perfect place for growing it. They grew a lot of it. Probably too much, so they turned some of that corn into whiskey, which was pretty common thing to do on the frontier. A lot of people knew how to do it. Making liquor was the safest and cheapest way to use up the extra corn because it was easy to transport downriver and wasn’t susceptible to mildew. Using a water-driven mill to grind the corn and a pot still he had brought with him, Jacob slowly began making whiskey from a fermented mash of corn, rye, and malt. The water he used was sweet Kentucky limestone—especially good for whiskey making since it’s rich in calcium, which works well with yeast cells during the fermenting stage. (I promise, that’s about as technical as I will get right now.)

  Jacob tried different grain mixtures—a little more corn, a little less rye, a little more rye, a little less corn, back and forth, back and forth—until he hit on a new recipe in the mid-1790s. Bingo, he got it right. We still use that recipe today, keep it under lock and key.

  He brought his first whiskey to market in 1795, and he entered a somewhat crowded marketplace. There was competition; a lot of people were making whiskey, even George Washington. Yes, that George Washington. He had a still over at Mount Vernon and records show that he turned a tidy little profit making rum and then, later, rye whiskey. (Washington was actually a fan of whiskey, especially during the Revolutionary War. In The Book of Bourbon and Other Fine American Whiskeys, my friend Gary Regan wrote that old George thought America should build a lot of distilleries, claiming that “the benefits arising from the moderate use of strong liquor have been experienced in all armies and are not to be disputed.”)

  But Jacob’s whiskey stood out from the rest and it soon earned a following. People in Kentucky started talking about it, making special trips out to Hardin Creek to get it. They came on Sunday after church, came in the evening after the mules were tired and plowing was done, came before a wedding or on the way to a funeral. Tired and thirsty pioneers, looking for a little relief after another hard day at the office. After a while, his whiskey started to gain a following and its reputation, like Jacob’s, grew throughout Kentucky and then through the Ohio River Valley. Old Jake’s whiskey, top-shelf stuff, come and get it—it’s worth the trip.

  It’s important to remember that up until that time, the whiskey that Jacob made was a novelty. New stuff. When people drank, they usually drank rum, which they made from sugar and molasses that was brought in from the Caribbean. They also made brandy from peaches and other fruits. Those spirits were popular in New England and consequently, the rest of Young America. So when Jake’s whiskey came on the scene, it was something different, something special: liquor made from grains, particularly corn.

  A lot of people and families lay claim to being the first to make bourbon or age it in oak barrels. Since records were scarce back then in Kentucky (pioneers were more interested in staying alive than trying to get legal patents on products and processes), no one is really sure who first hit on bourbon. I do know one thing for sure, though: while we definitely weren’t the first family to make it, we definitely were the best.

  After a while, Jacob had himself a pretty good little business, and he worked hard at it and it grew. Supply and demand. He had to keep up, and he did. Soon, he was shipping the whiskey out in oak barrels on flatboats, using the waterways. And he had a lot of water to work with. Kentucky has more navigable streams and rivers than just about any state in the union, a real asset that Jake took advantage of. Some of his whiskey made it all the way to New Orleans and then to ports unknown.

  His enterprise was growing and he needed help, so he brought in his son David, his 10th child (he had 12 children in all; he had a lot of energy), and together they worked the mill grinding the corn, and they worked the pot still, burning it off. After a few more years, Old Jake eventually called it quits and retired to another son’s farm. Time to sit on the front porch. His job was done.

  David Beam’s job was just beginning. He threw himself into the business, and set it on a solid path. More and more distilleries were popping up all over Kentucky, and competition for what was now being called bourbon whiskey (named because it was made in what was then Bourbon County) was getting fierce. So, he ramped up production, made even more good use of the streams and rivers to ship it west and east, and all in all made a name for himself and the family. Things were pretty good.

  They got better when his son David M. took over in 1853. Railroads were being built at a crazy pace; thousands and thousands of miles of track was being laid, and trains with steam engines were on the move. The trains, along with steamboats on the Mississippi, gave my family another and faster way to ship our product. The telegraph helped business too; when barkeepers ran low on whiskey, they had a way to reach distillers and order more. Also adding to the growth of the industry was a change in the distilling process. David M. and other distillers were getting away from the pot still and using something called column stills. These new stills increased production so we could make more and more brown liquor.1

  Thanks to these new distribution channels and processes, bourbon was proving popular, and it soon emerged as the drink of choice in the Old West. When cowboys bellied up to bars in frontier towns like Dodge City or San Antonio and asked for a whiskey, chances are they got bourbon. It was the cowboy drink.

  During the Civil War, troops on both the Union and Confederate sides had their share of bourbon. After a battle, it helped eased their pain and fortify their spirits. It also served as a necessary anesthetic to help the wounded; medicines weren’t what they are today. Kentucky was a border state; it stayed in the Union. Mary Todd Lincoln, wife of the president of the Union, was from Kentucky, but you could still own slaves there, so it was about as close to being neutral as you could get. Legend has it that when the Union troops came through Bourbon County, the distilleries would fly the American flag; when the Confederates did, they flew the rebel colors. Both were good customers, no need to choose sides now.

  General Ulysses Grant, commander of the Union forces, was probably the bourbon industry’s biggest customer; he drank so much of it that congressmen started complaining to President Lincoln about him, said he was an embarrassment, wasn’t fit to hold the position. Lincoln didn’t care. Always a big Grant supporter, he reportedly responded, “Find out what he drinks and send a case to my other generals.” (For the record, Grant drank Old Crow, which would one day become a fine Beam product.)

  With demand for bourbon growing, David M. left the original distillery on Hardin Creek (his brother Joseph took it over) and founded a new one about seven miles west in Nelson County, near the new railroad. It was here that he launched a brand named Old Tub that would end up proving quite popular. He also brought his son into the enterprise. His name was Jim Beam. You probably have heard of him.

  I never met my great-grandfather, so what I know is what I’ve been told, and I’ve been told a lot. He was only 16 when he went to work at the distillery and, along with his brother-in-law, Albert Hart, took it over when he was 30 years old, so he must have known what he was doing. (When I was 30, I was working the night shift on the bottling line, punching a clock.) I guess you could call him the Bill Gates of bourbon, because he took not just a business, but an entire industry, and kind of propelled it forward. He was the man all right.

  From what I’ve been told, my great-grandfather was “classic Kentucky,” a straightforward and simple man who saw things in black and white, threw big parties but probably didn’t give too many toasts, and went to church but probably didn
’t sing too loud. He was a formal man, never went anywhere without a suit and tie—even fished and hunted in a suit and tie—and drove a Cadillac car back and forth from the distillery to Bardstown, a jug of family yeast sitting in the front seat next to him. That yeast was a Beam heirloom, passed down through the generations, and it turned the mash into alcohol. You see, you have to use the same yeast to keep your whiskey consistent and tasting right and he wasn’t about to let it out of his sight. No room for error on that subject. My great-grandmother Mary, his wife, complained, said the yeast stunk up the house, said it smelled like old socks, but Jim didn’t care. He just shrugged, asked what’s for supper. That yeast was gold; it made his whiskey special and it smelled just fine to him.

  According to an old newspaper we keep, The Nelson County Register, “Jim Beam was full of energy, no one was more popular than he.” And by all accounts, that was true. Leslie Samuels, whose family would own the Maker’s Mark distillery, was a next-door neighbor and a best friend. They were close, had big times together, and even had a special sidewalk put in to connect the two houses. They drank their share of whiskey out on the front porch together, discussing things: their hopes, ambitions, their dreams for life. One story about those two has stood the test of time, so I’ll tell it now. Shows that my great-grandfather wasn’t all work; he had himself a sense of humor too.

  My great-grandmother Mary (“Maw Maw”) Beam was a devout Catholic. Jim Beam wasn’t. Anyway, the archbishop of the area, a higher-up to be sure, was coming to Bardstown for a visit. A big deal. Maw Maw Beam snapped into action, got the Big House and the entire town ready to receive him. She pulled out all the stops, had a parade planned, had a stage set up, put away the liquor in the basement. Then she dispatched Mr. Beam and Mr. Samuels to Louisville to pick him up while she waited at home for the Second Coming. Well, apparently when the two boys got to Louisville, they learned that the archbishop hadn’t come. He was sick, stayed home in Chicago. (Archbishop or not, the guy could have called. But that’s just my opinion. . . .) Anyway, Jim, who was a mason, and not wanting to disappoint the faithful back in Bardstown, especially his wife, decided to put on his Mason uniform, which included a hood that pretty much covered his whole face, get back in the convertible car they had come in, return to town, and take on the role of archbishop. They drove the parade route, waving to everyone and blessing people; they might have pulled over to take a few confessions, I’m not sure. When they got to the stage, Maw Maw was there to greet them, beaming with joy. She got the surprise of her life, though, when Jim took off his hood to reveal that rather than His Holiness, the town had just been genuflecting to a bourbon distiller. Everyone was shocked and confused, especially Maw Maw Beam, who, while not known for her temper, reportedly lost it on the stage and said a few very un-Christian things out loud. A bit of scene ensued in front of the whole town. I suspect Jim regretted his little stunt, but I’m glad he did it. It’s made for a good story.