The Food in Jars Kitchen
Page 9
SERVES 4
My mom is Jewish and though she grew up in a secular household, her one point of observance has always been that she does not eat pork. Because she was the primary cook in my childhood home, I grew up rarely eating it myself and had to actively learn how to cook various cuts when I was well into my adult life. This also means that I often forget about things like pork tenderloin, which is a shame, because it is both fast and easy to cook, and pairs up with homemade preserves like a dream. Served with a baking sheet of roasted vegetables, it makes a really lovely, nearly effortless meal. If you don’t eat pork, don’t ignore this recipe. The very same approach works beautifully for chicken breasts.
1½ pounds/680 g pork tenderloin
Salt
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
¼ cup/60 ml water
½ cup/120 ml chutney
2 to 3 tablespoons cider vinegar
1 tablespoon salted butter
Pat the tenderloins dry with a paper towel. Season with salt.
In a skillet with a lid, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat until it shimmers. Place the tenderloins in the pan, curling them around each other as necessary. Cook for 3 to 4 minutes on the first side and flip. Continue to cook until the exterior of the tenderloins is nicely browned.
Lower the heat to medium and add the water to the pan. Cover with the lid and cook for an additional 10 to 12 minutes, or until an instant-read thermometer inserted in the middle of the meat reads between 140°F and 145°F/60° and 63°C.
Remove the tenderloins from the pan and set aside on a channeled cutting board or plate. Add the chutney and 2 tablespoons of the vinegar to the pan. Stir with a flat-edged wooden spoon, working up the flavorful bits left in the pan. If the chutney is threatening to get too thick too quickly, add the remaining vinegar. If you still need more liquid, water will do just fine.
Remove the pan from the heat and add the butter. Stir to incorporate. If you want to present this nicely, cut the tenderloins into round slices and arrange them on a serving plate. Spoon the chutney pan sauce carefully over the arranged portions.
RECOMMENDED PRESERVES:
I like this best with chutneys made with apples, pears, or rhubarb. It’s also delicious with roughly chopped pickled fruit and homemade mostarda.
APRICOT-GLAZED WHOLE ROAST CHICKEN
SERVES 4 TO 6
I roasted my first whole chicken when I was twenty-one. A senior in college and living in a shabby off-campus house, I had regular access to a kitchen of my own for the first time ever. That first chicken was a puny bird that I managed to first undercook, and then in an attempt to correct that, proceeded to overcook mightily. I’ve had a bit of practice since then, and over the intervening years, roast chicken has become one of my most comfortable dishes to make by instinct. This whole, glazed version is the thing I make when friends and relatives come over for dinner, because it is both simple to prepare and wonderful to share.
1 large yellow onion, cut into thick rounds
1 (3½- to 4-pound/1.6 to 1.8 kg) roasting chicken
1 lemon, cut into wedges
1 tablespoon fine sea salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
¼ to ½ cup/60 to 120 ml apricot jam, or as needed
Preheat the oven to 450°F/232°C. Arrange the onion rounds on the bottom of a 13 × 9-inch/33 × 23 cm baking dish.
Check the chicken for parcels of necks and gizzards inside and remove them if you find them. Using a sharp paring knife, cut away any large chunks of fat. Pat the chicken dry with a few paper towels and place it on top of the onion rounds. Tuck the lemon wedges inside the chicken. Salt the chicken generously and dust with pepper.
Place the uncovered baking dish in the oven on the middle rack and lower the heat to 400°F/204°C.
Roast the chicken for at least 45 minutes before you begin to glaze it. While it does its initial cooking, measure out ¼ cup/60 ml of apricot jam, saving the rest for later, if needed. Remember, as you brush on the jam, your brush will carry chicken juices back to the remaining jam, and so any jam that doesn’t go on the chicken by the end should be discarded.
When it’s time to start glazing, remove the chicken from the oven and lower the heat to 350°F/177°C. Using a pastry brush, paint the top and sides of the chicken with the jam. Return the chicken to the oven and continue to roast for another 15 minutes. Remove the chicken and paint on another layer of jam. Put the chicken back in the oven to roast for another 15 minutes and then pull it out and glaze again.
When another 15 minutes have passed for a total of 1½ hours, pull out the bird again, and using an instant-read thermometer, check the temperature in the thickest part of the thigh. It should read at least 165°F/74°C. The legs should also wiggle in the joints easily and the onions should be caramelized around the edges.
Let the chicken rest for at least 10 minutes before carving. If the onions didn’t caramelize to your liking during the roasting process, heat the broiler and place the pan under the direct heat for 4 to 5 minutes, to crisp up those onion edges.
Serve hot.
RECOMMENDED PRESERVES:
As the title of the recipe implies, I like to make this chicken with apricot jam. However, most stone fruit jams will work if you don’t have apricot. It’s particularly good when made with jams you’ve spiked with herbs or hot peppers.
GLAZED MINI TURKEY MEAT LOAVES
MAKES 8 MINI-LOAVES
Meat loaf always takes longer to cook than I think it should. Every time I make it, Scott and I find ourselves standing in the kitchen staring at the oven, willing it to cook faster. Some might suggest that perhaps I start dinner earlier, but that rarely works. Instead, my solution is to make smaller loaves. They aren’t much more work, they’re just as delicious, and they cook in about a third of the time.
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 large yellow onion, finely diced
4 large garlic cloves, minced or pressed
8 ounces/225 g baby spinach, roughly chopped
¼ cup/60 ml water
½ cup/30 g chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
2 teaspoons fine sea salt
1½ teaspoons fresh thyme
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
3 large eggs, beaten
1 cup/250 g part-skim ricotta cheese
1 cup/50 g panko breadcrumbs
2 pounds/900 g lean ground turkey
3 to 4 tablespoons tomato jam, homemade ketchup, or pepper jelly
Preheat the oven to 400°F/205°C. Line 2 large, rimmed baking sheets with parchment paper.
Heat the olive oil in a medium skillet over high heat. When the oil shimmers, add the onion and garlic and cook for 4 to 5 minutes, or until the onion is tender, starting to brown, and quite fragrant. Add the chopped spinach and the water and cook for an additional 2 to 3 minutes, or until the spinach wilts. Finally, add the parsley, salt, thyme, and pepper. Remove from the heat and allow to cool a little.
In a large bowl, combine the eggs, ricotta, breadcrumbs, and ground turkey. Use your hands to knead the ingredients together. Add the spinach mixture and work it into the meat.
Divide the mixture into 8 equal-size portions, place them on the prepared baking sheets, and shape them into loaves. Bake for 15 minutes. Remove from the oven and top each loaf with 1 to 2 teaspoons of the jam, taking care to spread it out evenly. Returning the pans to the oven, swapping their positions so that the one that was on the top rack is moved to the lower, and vice versa. Continue to bake for another 10 to 15 minutes, or until the loaves have an internal temperature of at least 165°F/74°C.
Serve hot.
Note: This mixture also makes excellent meatballs. Form into tablespoon-size balls, arrange on the baking sheets, and bake for 12 to 16 minutes. I often make them for potlucks and serve the jam, jelly, or ketchup I might have used as a glaze as a dipping sauce instead.
RECOMMENDED PRESERVES:
These loaves don’t absolu
tely require a glaze, but it’s one of those little steps that makes them feel and taste fancier. I like to use tomato jam, some thinned-out pepper jelly, or homemade ketchup to provide that extra polish.
JAM-LACQUERED CHICKEN WINGS
SERVES 8 TO 10 AS AN APPETIZER
I was never much of a wing fan until I tried this approach to cooking and saucing. Using your broiler as the cooking element means you get steady, high heat. This renders the fat quickly, crisps the skin, and in the final stage, causes the jammy sauce to caramelize onto the meat. You wind up with tender wings finished in sweet, tart, slightly spicy perfection.
3 pounds/1.4 kg chicken wings
½ teaspoon fine sea salt
1 cup/240 ml jam
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
½ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
Prepare the chicken wings: If they are still whole, cut each wing into 3 segments: drumette, flat, and tip. You won’t want to use the tips for this recipe, but they make really good stock.
Heat your broiler to high and position a rack so that it’s 4 to 5 inches/10 to 13 cm away from the element. Line a baking sheet with aluminum foil.
Dry the segmented wings with paper towels and arrange them on the lined baking sheet so that each has a little space around it. Evenly dust the wings with salt. Place under the broiler and broil until the wings are evenly browned and look crisp around the edges, flipping once during broiling. Depending on the strength of your broiler, they will need between 15 and 20 minutes.
While the wings are broiling, combine the jam, lemon juice, and red pepper flakes in a large bowl.
Once the wings are browned and crisp, transfer them to the jam mixture and toss to coat.
Using tongs, return the wings to the pan, leaving the excess jam mixture in the bowl, and broil for 2 to 3 more minutes, or until they sizzle and look satisfyingly sticky.
Remove the wings from the oven and return them to the reserved jam mixture. Toss them again to coat and serve immediately.
Note: If you want wings with a bit more heat, feel free to use more red pepper flakes. Alternatively, swirl a little sriracha sauce into the jam before the initial jam coating.
RECOMMENDED PRESERVES:
Stick with high-sugar varieties of apricot, peach, or cherry for these wings. Stay away from anything that’s heavily spiced or includes vanilla.
PICKLE-BRINED CHICKEN TENDERS
SERVES 6 TO 8
Breaded chicken tenders are a perennial favorite with kids and adults alike. Crisp and crunchy on the outside, tender and flavorful on the inside, this version treats the chicken to a quick bath in pickle brine for extra deliciousness.
2 pounds/900 g chicken tenders
1 cup/240 ml pickle brine
2 teaspoons fine sea salt, divided
Nonstick spray for rack
½ cup/60 g all-purpose flour
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
3 large eggs
1 tablespoon water
1½ cups/75 g panko breadcrumbs
1 tablespoon Italian seasoning
Place the chicken tenders in a resealable plastic bag. Add the pickle brine and 1 teaspoon of the salt and let the chicken marinate for 30 minutes to 1 hour.
When you’re ready to make the chicken tenders, line a plate with paper towels and arrange the brined tenders on the towels. Blot dry.
Preheat the oven to 375°F/190°C. Place a rack on a rimmed baking sheet and coat the rack with the nonstick spray.
In one bowl, combine the flour, ½ teaspoon of the salt, and the pepper. In second bowl, whisk the eggs with the water. In a third bowl, combine the panko breadcrumbs with the Italian seasoning and remaining ½ teaspoon of the salt. Bread a chicken tender by first dipping it in the flour mixture to coat. Gently shake off the excess. Next, dip it into the beaten egg. Finally, roll the tender in the breadcrumbs, shaking off any excess. Place the breaded chicken tender on the rack and repeat the process with the remaining pieces of chicken.
When all the chicken is coated, bake for 8 to 10 minutes. Remove the pan from the oven and, using tongs, carefully flip the tenders so that both sides can crisp up. Take care to flip gently to make sure the breading stays on the tenders.
Bake for an additional 5 to 6 minutes, or until an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest tender reads 165°F/75°C. If the tenders aren’t satisfyingly brown, broil them for 1 to 2 minutes at the end of cooking to help them get some color.
Serve warm.
Note: If your grocery store doesn’t sell chicken tenders, you can also buy chicken breasts and cut them into strips, five or six per breast.
RECOMMENDED PRESERVES:
I like to use leftover brine from pickled cucumbers and green beans for these tenders. Skip leftover brine from beets, as they will leave the chicken sickly looking and too sweet.
GLAZED HAM
SERVES 12 TO 14
The first time I made a ham, I instantly understood why it’s a favorite main dish on many holiday tables. First off, cured hams are already cooked all the way through, so there’s no concern about undercooked meat. Second, they’re an affordable way to feed a lot of people. And finally, they’re delicious. I also like that it’s relatively easy to put one’s mark on a ham with the addition of a tasty glaze. If you haven’t served a big, bone-in ham in a while, I strongly urge you to consider it.
1 (6- to 8-pound/2.7 to 3.6 kg) bone-in ham (see note)
1 cup/240 ml water
1 cup/240 ml jam
2 tablespoons spicy brown mustard
2 teaspoons grated fresh ginger
Preheat the oven to 300°F/149°C. Place the ham, cut-side down, in a baking dish. Pour the water into the dish around the base of the ham so that it doesn’t dry out. Bake the ham for 1½ to 2½ hours, or until a thermometer inserted toward the center of the ham reads 120°F/49°C.
As you approach that temperature, heat the jam, mustard, and ginger in a small saucepan until the jam is soft enough that you’ll be able to paint it on the ham.
Once the ham has reached temperature, remove it from the oven. Increase the oven temperature to 375°F/190°C. Thickly paint the glaze over the exposed surfaces. If all the water around the base of the ham has evaporated, add a splash more. Return the ham to the oven.
Roast the ham for 10 to 15 minutes, or until the glaze bubbles and turns dark brown.
Once the glaze looks good, remove the ham from the oven. Tent with foil to keep warm and let it rest for 5 to 10 minutes before serving.
Note: I’ve used this technique for both unsliced and spiral-cut hams and it works for either. If you do find yourself working with an uncut ham, make sure to score the exterior with the tip of a knife in a diamond pattern to help crisp it up and give the glaze something to hold on to when it’s time to apply. Spiral-cut hams need no such preparation.
RECOMMENDED PRESERVES:
Apricot is a classic choice, but peach or sour cherry are also good. Another alternative is a whole-fruit lemon jam, should you have a jar or two in the pantry.
KIELBASA, POTATO, AND SAUERKRAUT SKILLET
SERVES 4 TO 6
This is an easy weeknight dinner that I make a lot during the winter. To prevent it from being too heavy, I opt for turkey kielbasa rather than the more traditional pork and I stir in fresh dill at the end of cooking for a burst of fresh flavor. If dill isn’t your thing, try chopped flat-leaf parsley or even some roughly chopped spinach. Also note that I don’t call for any additional salt in this recipe. This is not a mistake. Between the kraut and the kielbasa, there should be plenty of salt present.
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 yellow onion, halved and sliced
2 large russet potatoes, cut into 1-inch/2.5 cm cubes (about 1½ pounds/680 g)
1 cup/240 ml water
2 cups/480 ml Basic Sauerkraut (here), drained
1 pound/450 g kielbasa, diced
⅓ cup/20 g minced fresh dill
&nb
sp; ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Heat the oil in a large sauté pan over medium-high heat until it shimmers. Add the onion and cook for 3 to 4 minutes, or until they begin to brown.
Add the potatoes and water. Stir to combine, cover the pan, and lower the heat to medium. Cook for 10 to 12 minutes, or until the potatoes have softened some.
Add the sauerkraut and kielbasa and stir. Cover the pan and cook for an additional 12 to 15 minutes, or until the potatoes are entirely soft and the sausage is plump.
Stir in the fresh dill and black pepper and serve.
RECOMMENDED PRESERVES:
Any basic kraut works well here. If you ever find yourself with a batch of red cabbage kraut, try making this with sweet potatoes rather than white.
BROWN RICE, BEAN, AND SALSA CASSEROLE
SERVES 4 TO 6
This casserole first wandered into my life when one of my college roommates clipped it from our local paper’s food section (shout out to the Walla Walla Union Bulletin!). We loved it because it was cheap, filling, and designed to be made in the microwave, and we ate it on a near-weekly basis as a result. I use a lot more vegetables these days and finish it in the oven to ensure that the cheese browns nicely, but the essential building blocks—rice, beans, salsa—remain steadfast.