The Food in Jars Kitchen
Page 19
2 pounds/900 g napa cabbage, cut into 2-inch/5 cm chunks
2 tablespoons fine sea salt
8 ounces/225 g daikon radish, julienned
1 bundle green onions, trimmed and cut into 2-inch/5 cm lengths
5 garlic cloves, peeled
1½ inches/4 cm fresh ginger, peeled
1½ teaspoons granulated sugar
2 to 4 tablespoons gochugaru, or to taste
Place the chopped cabbage in a large bowl and add the salt. Use your hands to rub the salt into the cabbage and let it sit overnight.
The next day, rinse the cabbage and let it drain. Return the cabbage to the bowl and add the prepared daikon and green onions.
Place the garlic, ginger, and sugar in a small food chopper or processor. Chop until a paste forms. Add this mixture to the cabbage mixture.
Finally, add the gochugaru. For a batch this size, I like to use 2 tablespoons. That makes a mildly spicy batch. If you’re very sensitive to heat, use even less. If you want something with a bit more fire, use the full amount.
Use your hands to work the spices into the vegetables. Pack it all into a half-gallon jar/2 L or small crock. Weigh it down with a 4-ounce/120 ml jar or pickling weights (so that the cabbage stays below the liquid line) and cover the vessel with an airlock or kitchen cloth (the airlock helps keep the sometimes strong fragrance confined).
Let the kimchi ferment for 5 to 6 days, checking every day or two, until you like how it tastes.
When the kimchi is done, portion it into jars and refrigerate. Kept in a tightly closed jar, kimchi will keep in the fridge for up to a year.
PESTO
MAKES 1 CUP/240 ML PESTO
I make pesto with herbs, such as basil, parsley, or cilantro, as well as flavorful, tender greens, such as arugula, mustard, or young kale. This formula should work regardless of what kind of green you’re using as your base. A combination of greens is also nice, particularly if you’re trying to stretch a bundle of herbs. As far as the nuts go, I like to use walnuts, cashews, blanched almonds, or pine nuts.
2 cups/40 g packed greens or herbs, tough stems removed
½ cup/70 g nuts, toasted
¼ cup/25 g grated Parmesan cheese
3 garlic cloves
½ cup/120 ml olive oil, plus more if needed to top
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
In the work bowl of a food processor, combine the greens, toasted nuts, Parmesan cheese, and garlic. Pulse until a paste begins to form. Remove the lid and scrape down the bowl, if necessary.
Once you’ve gotten to a chunky paste, slowly stream in the olive oil with the motor running and process until well combined. Taste and add the salt and pepper to taste.
Use the pesto immediately, or pack it into 4-ounce/125 ml freezer-safe containers to preserve for a longer period of time. Top the pesto with a thin layer of olive oil to prevent freezer burn and discoloration. It will keep in the refrigerator for at least 1 week, or in the freezer for up to 1 year.
BASIC SAUERKRAUT
MAKES 1 QUART/1 L SAUERKRAUT
This is the simple sauerkraut that I’ve used throughout this book. Sometimes I spice it up, or replace some of the cabbage with shredded carrots for a sweeter batch. It’s incredibly easy to make and so very satisfying as well!
2 pounds/900 g green cabbage, thinly sliced
1 tablespoon fine sea salt
Place the sliced cabbage in large bowl and sprinkle the salt on top. Using your hands, knead the salt into the cabbage, squeezing firmly to help release the liquid from the cabbage.
When the volume of cabbage appears to have reduced by half, pack the salted cabbage into a quart-size/1 L jar in layers, firmly pressing it down with a heavy spoon each time before adding more (all the cabbage should fit into a quart-size/1 L jar).
Press the cabbage down firmly in the jar, so that liquid bubbles up over the surface of the cabbage. Loosely cap the jar, position it on a small saucer or plate, and place it in a cool, dark spot.
Check every other day, removing any surface scum that forms and pressing cabbage down if it has floated above the liquid. Be warned that sauerkraut can get a little stinky. It’s normal for it to smell like sweaty feet. However, if it starts to smell fishy or like rotten eggs, something has gone wrong. This happens rarely, but does occasionally occur. If your sauerkraut spoils or develops pink mold, throw it out.
After a week, taste the sauerkraut. If you like the flavor, place the jar in the refrigerator. If you want something a bit stronger, let it continue to ferment until it pleases you. Kept in a tightly closed jar, sauerkraut will keep in the fridge for up to a year.
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
AS IS ALWAYS THE CASE WITH CREATIVE WORKS, THE MAKING of this book was not a solitary effort. It was shaped, tested, edited, photographed, and made beautiful by a cast of many, and I am forever grateful to the people who have helped me bring it out of my head and into the world.
I had two editors work on this book and I am thankful for them both. Kristen Green Wiewora is my longtime editor and it is always a delight to collaborate with a dear friend. Kristen went out on maternity leave in the midst of this book (welcome to the world, Rose!) and her colleague Jordana Tusman stepped into the fray.
A river of thanks goes to my agent, Clare Pelino. I am so lucky to have her shrewd intelligence and deep kindness on my side.
This book would not have made it to its deadline without help from freelance editor, recipe developer, food writer, and dear friend, Emily Teel. She leapt into the chaos during the last eight weeks of the drafting process and saved me from a meltdown. She made sense of tester feedback, developed a handful of cocktails, gave me honest feedback about recipes that weren’t making the cut, and sorted through my messy spreadsheet to help me find the path toward the finish line.
Big thanks to Amanda Richmond for her gorgeous design work. Steve Legato, thank you for your artistry with lights and lenses. Erin McDowell, I am so grateful that we finally got to work together. Thank you for sharing your food styling talent with me. Thanks also go to Evan Coben for all her hard photo shoot work.
I have nothing but appreciation and gratitude for my husband and fellow writer, Scott McNulty. His steadfast, loving belief in me keeps me moving forward, even when I fear I’ve tumbled off the path.
My gratitude for my parents, Leana and Morris McClellan, is unending. They helped me brainstorm flavor combinations, provided suggestions for headnotes when I didn’t think I had any more stories to tell, and read every word of this book in early draft form. I am truly the luckiest.
To my sister Raina Rose and brother-in-law Andrew Pressman. I am so grateful to have you both as family and fellow travelers on this creative path. Also, thanks for bringing Emmett and Benny into the world. They are fun, lovely, crazy-making boys and I am so happy to be their aunt.
Many thanks go to my team of volunteer recipe testers. They were instrumental in making sure that the dishes in this book would work on every stove and in every kitchen. They are Genevieve Boehme, Abby Doyle, Margo Gillaspy, Jen Wetzel, Michele Knaub, Rebecca Gagnon, Jamie Png, Chrissy Bellizzi, Casey DelliCarpini, Jackie Botto, Angelica Jaszek, Christina Bello, Kelly Schultz Skupnik, Meryl Carver-Allmond, Jenny Pierce, and Heidi Bahr.
I am so lucky to have a collective of friends and colleagues both near and far, to whom I can turn when I am stuck, uncertain, overwhelmed, or momentarily fed up. They include Kate Payne, Deena Prichep, Joy Manning, Molly Watson, Maggie Battista, Meg Brown, Sean Timberlake, Joel MacCharles, Dana Harrison, Julia Sforza, Shae Irving, Kaela Porter, Seth Carrier-Ladd, Cindy McCauley, Ingrid Moeller, Andrea Baxter, Roz Duffy, Janet Reich Elsbach, Ivy Manning, Alana Chernila, Ashley English, Audra Wolfe, Tenaya Darlington, Alexis Siemons, and Amanda Feifer. Thank you all.
Finally, my infinite thanks go out to the community of home cooks and canners who read the blog, come to my classes, use my recipes, and share their many preserving successes. You all are the reason I do what I do.
A
Aïoli, Relish, 62
Almond Butter and Jam Toast, 42
Apple Butter
Apple Bundt Cake, 167
and Apple Vinegar, Pulled Chicken with, 93
Applesauce
Banana Bread, 12
Chocolate Cake, 165
Oatmeal Bars, 10
Apricot Jam
Apricot Basil Sparkler, 199
Apricot-Glazed Whole Roast Chicken, 102–4
and Walnut Rugelach, 152
Arugula, Baby, with Goat Cheese and
Pickled Onions, 86
Avocado
and Pomegranate Seeds, Spring Mix with, 86
and Sauerkraut Toast, 42
B
Babka, 121–22
Banana Applesauce Bread, 12
Bar Cookies
Blue Cheese Jam Squares, 138
Jam-Swirled Brownies, 140
Linzer, 146–47
Oatmeal Applesauce, 10
Pumpkin Butter Cheesecake, 141
Shortbread, 139
Vegan Jammy Oatmeal Pecan, 137
Bean(s)
Brown Rice, and Salsa Casserole, 111
Preserved Lemon Hummus, 48
White, Spread, Blank Slate, 49
Beef
Brisket with Cherry Jam and Malt Vinegar, 96–97
Short Ribs, Sweet-and-Sour, 91
Beet, Pickled, Borscht, 99
Berry Jam
Flourless Chocolate Cake, 162–63
and Peanut Granola, 30
recipe for, 215
Victoria Sandwich, 157–58
Biscuits, Jam-Filled, 14–15
Blueberry(ies)
and Lemon Curd Tart, 186
and Walnut Cobbler, 173
Blueberry jam
Blueberry Basil Lemonade Highball, 194
Mustardy Blueberry Vinaigrette, 66
Bread Pudding, Layered, 168–69
Breads. See also Rolls
Babka, 121–22
Banana Applesauce, 12
Challah, 118–19
Chutney Loaf, 123
Cinnamon Raisin Loaf, 114–15
fancy toasts, 42
Focaccia with Preserves, 124–26
Oatmeal Sandwich, 116–17
Rarebit with Relish, 38
toasting, 41
Brownies, Jam-Swirled, 140
Butters, Compound
Basic, 51–52
Marmalade, 52
Preserved Lemon, 52
Relish or Pickle, 52
C
Cabbage
Basic Sauerkraut, 227
Kimchi, 223
Cakes
Apple Bundt, 167
Chocolate, Flourless, 162–63
Chocolate Applesauce, 165
Chocolate Sauerkraut, 166
Fruit Butter Dollop, 164
Marmalade Pound, 160–61
Victoria Sandwich, 157–58
Yogurt Upside-Down, 159
Challah, 118–19
Champagne Shrub Cocktail, 196
Cheese. See also Cream cheese
Blue, Jam Squares, 138
and Chutney Rolls, 130–31
Concord Grape Butter and Camembert Pizza, 80
From-Scratch Queso, 50
Goat, and Pickled Onions, Baby Arugula with, 86
Goat, and Savory Jam Tart, 184–85
Goat, and Tomato Jam Rugelach, 152
Goat, and Walnuts, Butter Lettuce with, 86
Goat, Peach Jam, and Onion Pizza, 79
Homemade Pizza, 78–79
Marmalade, Olive, and Feta Pizza, 83
Rarebit with Relish, 38
Ricotta and Marmalade Toast, 42
Roasted Red Pepper, Pepperoncini, and Feta Dip, 46
Tomato Cheddar Scones, 20
Cherry Jam
Cherry Mint Sparkler, 199
and Malt Vinegar, Brisket with, 96–97
Chicken
Apricot-Glazed Whole Roast, 102–4
Pulled, and Apple Butter and Apple Vinegar, 93
Salsa-Braised, 90
Tenders, Pickle-Brined, 108
Wings, Jam-Lacquered, 107
Chocolate
Applesauce Cake, 165
Cake, Flourless, 162–63
Jam-Swirled Brownies, 140
Sauerkraut Cake, 166
Chutney
Adaptable, 221
Basic Compound Butter, 51–52
Blank Slate White Bean Spread, 49
and Cheese Rolls, 130–31
Loaf, 123
Pan Sauce, Pork Tenderloin with, 101
Cinnamon Raisin Loaf, 114–15
Cobblers
Blueberry and Walnut, 173
Fruit, 173
Pear and Cranberry, 173
Spiced Peach, 173
Concord Grape Butter and Camembert Pizza, 80
Cookies. See also Bar Cookies
Classic Buttery Thumbprints, 134
Hamantaschen, 148–49
Linzer, 146–47
Peanut Butter and Oatmeal Thumbprints, 136
Rugelach, 150–51
Shortbread Bars, 139
Swirled Meringue, 142–43
Vegan Jammy Oatmeal Pecan Bar, 137
Crab Cakes, 73
Crackers, 39–40
Cranberry and Pear Cobbler, 173
Cream cheese
Apricot Jam and Walnut Rugelach, 152
Grape Jam and Peanut Rugelach, 152
Hamantaschen, 148–49
Pumpkin Butter Cheesecake Bars, 141
Rugelach, 150–51
Crêpes, Filled, 21–22
Cucumber Pickles, Quick, 222
D
Dips
From-Scratch Queso, 50
Preserved Lemon Hummus, 48
Roasted Red Pepper, Pepperoncini, and Feta, 46
Dressing, Russian, 63
Drinks
Apricot Basil Sparkler, 199
Blueberry Basil Lemonade Highball, 194
Champagne Shrub Cocktail, 196
Cherry Mint Sparkler, 199
Herbal Fruit Sparkler, 199
Jam Bramble, 192
Jam Daiquiri, 193
Marmalade Hot Toddy, 196
Meyer Lemon Marmalade Martini, 191
Pantry Sangria, 197
Pineapple Cilantro Sparkler, 199
E
Eggs
Kimchi Matzo Brei, 25
Sauerkraut Frittata, 27
Equipment, 4–5
F
Fish
Salmon Salad, 74
Smoked or Cured, and Pickles Toast, 42
Frittata, Sauerkraut, 27
Fruit. See also specific fruits
Adaptable Chutney, 221
Cobbler, 173
Jam Slab Pie, 178
Pantry Sangria, 197
Runny Jelly Granita, 207
Sauce, 217
Stone, Jam, 216
Fruit Butter
Baked Oatmeal, 9
Dollop Cake, 164
Oatmeal Muffins, 11
G
Ginger
Marmalade Scones, 18
Pear, and Walnut Granola, 32
Granita, Runny Jelly, 207
Granola
Jammy, Basic, 28
Marmalade and Mixed Nut, 31
Peanut and Berry Jam, 30
Pear, Ginger, and Walnut, 32
Tomato Jam and Smoked Paprika, 33
Grape Jam
Pantry Sangria, 197
and Peanut Rugelach, 152
Sparkling Grape Pops, 208
Greens
Baby Arugula with Goat Cheese and Pickled Onions, 86
Butter Lettuce with Walnuts and Goat Cheese, 86
Pesto, 224
Spring Mix with Avocado and Pomegranate Seeds, 86
H
Ham, Glazed, 109
Hamantaschen, 148–49
Hand Pies, 180
&nbs
p; Herbed Marmalade Marinade, 57
Herbs
Herbal Fruit Sparkler, 199
Pesto, 224
I
Ice Cream, Orange Marmalade, 204
J
Jam. See also Jam recipes; specific jam flavors
and Almond Butter Toast, 42
Babka, 121–22
Basic Compound Butter, 51–52
Basic Jammy Granola, 28
Blue Cheese Squares, 138
Bramble, 192
Classic Buttery Thumbprints, 134
-Filled Biscuits, 14–15
Filled Sweet Rolls, 129
Focaccia with Preserves, 124–26
Glazed Ham, 109
-Glazed Nuts, 36
Hamantaschen, 148–49
Hand Pies, 180
Herbal Fruit Sparkler, 199
Homemade Pizza, 78–79
Jammy Barbecue Sauce, 59
Jammy Frozen Yogurt, 205
Jammy Mustard Marinade, 58
-Lacquered Chicken Wings, 107
Layered Bread Pudding, 168–69
Linzer Bar Cookies, 146–47
Pancake Sauce, 24
Peach Walnut Cream Scones, 19
Peanut Butter and Oatmeal Thumbprints, 136
Popunders, 13
Quick Strudel, 145–46
Rugelach, 150–51
Savory, and Goat Cheese Tart, 184–85
Shortbread Bars, 139
Slab Pie, 178
-Streaked Scones, Basic, 16–18
Sweet-and-Sour Beef Short Ribs, 91
-Swirled Brownies, 140
Swirled Meringue Cookies, 142–43
Swirled Rolls, 126–27
Tart, Fancy, 183–84
Vegan Jammy Oatmeal Pecan Bar Cookies, 137
Victoria Sandwich, 157–58
Vinaigrette, 66
and vinegar braises, preparing, 92
and Yogurt Pops, Basic, 208
Yogurt Upside-Down Cake, 159
Jam recipes
Berry Jam, 215
Stone Fruit Jam, 216
Jelly, Runny, Granita, 207
K
Kielbasa, Potato, and Sauerkraut Skillet, 110
Kimchi, 223
Kimchi Matzo Brei, 25
L
Lemon
Blueberry Basil Lemonade Highball, 194
Curd and Blueberry Tart, 186