Delphi Complete Works of Pliny the Elder

by Pliny the Elder

  CHAP. 26.

  PAMPHYLIA.

  The former name of Pamphylia was Mopsopia. The Pamphylian Sea joins up to that of Cilicia. The towns of Pamphylia are Side, Aspendum, situate on the side of a mountain, Pletenissum, and Perga. There is also the Promontory of Leucolla, the mountain of Sardemisus, and the rivers Eurymedon, which flows past Aspendus, and Catarractes, near to which is Lyrnesus: also the towns of Olbia, and Phaselis, the last on this coast.

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  CHAP. 27.

  MOUNT TAURUS.

  Adjoining to Pamphylia is the Sea of Lycia and the country of Lycia itself, where the chain of Taurus, coming from the eastern shores, terminates the vast Gulf by the Promontory of Chelidonium. Of immense extent, and separating nations innumerable, after taking its first rise at the Indian Sea, it branches off to the north on the right-hand side, and on the left towards the south. Then taking a direction towards the west, it would cut through the middle of Asia, were it not that the seas check it in its triumphant career along the land. It accordingly strikes off in a northerly direction, and forming an arc, occupies an immense tract of country, nature, designedly as it were, every now and then throwing seas in the way to oppose its career; here the Sea of Phœnicia, there the Sea of Pontus, in this direction the Caspian and Hyrcanian, and then, opposite to them, the Lake Mæotis. Although somewhat curtailed by these obstacles, it still winds along between them, and makes its way even amidst these barriers; and victorious after all, it then escapes with its sinuous course to the kindred chain of the Riphæan mountains. Numerous are the names which it bears, as it is continuously designated by new ones throughout the whole of its course. In the first part of its career it has the name of Imaüs, after which it is known successively by the names of Emodus, Paropanisus, Circius, Cambades, Paryadres, Choatras, Oreges, Oroandes, Niphates, Taurus, and, where it even out-tops itself, Caucasus. Where it throws forth its arms as though every now and then it would attempt to invade the sea, it bears the names of Sarpedon, Coracesius, Cragus, and then again Taurus. Where also it opens and makes a passage to admit mankind, it still claims the credit of an unbroken continuity by giving the name of “Gates” to these passes, which in one place are called the “Gates of Armenia,” in another the “Gates of the Caspian,” and in another the “Gates of Cilicia.” In addition to this, when it has been cut short in its onward career, it retires to a distance from the seas, and covers itself on the one side and the other with the names of numerous nations, being called, on the right-hand side the Hyrcanian and the Caspian, and on the left the Parvadrian, the Moschian, the Amazonian, the Coraxican, and the Scythian chain. Among the Greeks it bears the one general name of Ceraunian.

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  CHAP. 28.

  LYCIA.

  In Lycia, after leaving its promontory, we come to the town of Simena, Mount Chimæra, which sends forth flames by night, and the city of Hephæstium, the heights above which are also frequently on fire. Here too formerly stood the city of Olympus; now we find the mountain places known as Gagæ, Corydalla, and Rhodiopolis. Near the sea is Limyra with a river of like name, into which the Arycandus flows, Mount Masycites, the state of Andriaca, Myra, the towns of Aperræ and Antiphellos, formerly called Habessus, and in a corner Phellos, after which comes Pyrra, and then the city of Xanthus, fifteen miles from the sea, as also a river known by the same name. We then come to Patara, formerly Pataros, and Sidyma, situate on a moun- tain. Next comes the Promontory of Cragus, and beyond it a gulf, equal to the one that comes before it; upon it are Pinara, and Telmessus, the frontier town of Lycia.

  Lycia formerly contained seventy towns, now it has but thirty-six. Of these, the most celebrated, besides those already mentioned, are Canas, Candyba, so celebrated for the Œnian Grove, Podalia, Choma, past which the river Ædesa flows, Cyaneæ, Ascandalis, Amelas, Noscopium, Tlos, and Telandrus. It includes also in the interior the district of Cabalia, the three cities of which are Œnianda, Balbura, and Bubon.

  On passing Telmessus we come to the Asiatic or Carpathian Sea, and the district which is properly called Asia. Agrippa has divided this region into two parts; one of which he has bounded on the east by Phrygia and Lycaonia, on the west by the Ægean Sea, on the south by the Egyptian Sea, and on the north by Paphlagonia, making its length to be 473 miles and its breadth 320. The other part he has bounded by the Lesser Armenia on the east, Phrygia, Lycaonia, and Pamphylia on the west, the province of Pontus on the north, and the Sea of Pamphylia on the south, making it 575 miles in length and 325 in breadth.

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  CHAP. 29

  CARIA.

  Upon the adjoining coast is Caria, then Ionia, and beyond it Æolis. Caria surrounds Doris, which lies in the middle, and runs down on both sides of it to the sea. In it is the Promontory of Pedalium, the river Glaucus, into which the Telmedium discharges itself, the towns of Dædala, Crya, peopled by fugitives, the river Axon, and the town of Calynda.

  (28.) The river Indus, which rises in the mountains of the Cibyratæ, receives sixty-five rivers which are constantly flowing, besides upwards of 100 mountain torrents. Here is the free town of Caunos, then the town of Pyrnos, the port of Cressa, from which the island of Rhodes is distant twenty miles; the place where Loryma formerly stood, the towns of Tisanusa, Paridion, and Larymna, the Gulf of Thymnias, the Promontory of Aphrodisias, the town of Hyda, the Gulf of Schœnus, and the district of Bubasus. There was formerly the town of Acanthus here, another name of which was Dulopolis. We then come to Cnidos, a free town, situate on a promontory, Triopia, and after that the towns of Pegusa and Stadia.

  At this last town Doris begins; but, first, it may be as well to describe the districts that lie to the back of Caria and the several jurisdictions in the interior. The first of these is called Cibyratica; Cibyra being a town of Phrygia. Twenty-five states resort to it for legal purposes, together with the most famous city of Laodicea.

  (29.) This place at first bore the name of Diospolis, and after that of Rhoas, and is situate on the river Lycus, the Asopus and the Caprus washing its sides. The other people belonging to the same jurisdiction, whom it may be not amiss to mention, are the Hydrelitæ, the Themisones, and the Hierapolitæ. The second jurisdiction receives its title from Synnas; to it resort the Lycaones, the Appiani, the Eucarpeni, the Dorylæi, the Midæi, the Julienses, and fifteen other peoples of no note. The third jurisdiction has its seat at Apamea, formerly called Celænæ, and after that Cibotos. This place is situate at the foot of Mount Signia, the Marsyas, the Obrima, and the Orga, rivers which fall into the Mæander, flowing past it. Here the Marsyas, rising from the earth, again makes its appearance, but soon after buries itself once more at Aulocreneæ, the spot where Marsyas had the musical contest with Apollo as to superiority of skill in playing on the flute. Aulocrenæ is the name given to a valley which lies ten miles on the road towards Phrygia from Apamea. As belonging to this jurisdiction, it may be as well to mention the Metropolitæ, the Dionysopolitæ, th>e Euphorbeni, the Aemonenses, the Pelteni, and the Silbiani, besides nine other nations of no note.

  Upon the Gulf of Doris we have Leucopolis, Hamaxitos, Eleus, and Euthene. We then come to Pitaium, Eutane, and Halicarnassus, towns of Caria. To the jurisdiction of this last place six towns were appended by Alexander the Great, Theangela, Sibde, Medmasa, Euralium, Pedasus, and Telmissus. Halicarnassus lies between two gulfs, those of Ceramus and Iasus. We then come to Myn- dos, and the former site of Palæomyndos; also Nariandos, Neapolis, Caryanda, the free town of Termera, Bargyla, and the town of Iasus, from which the Iasian Gulf takes its name.

  Caria is especially distinguished for the fame of its places in the interior; for here are Mylasa, a free town, and that of Antiochia, on the site of the former towns of Symmæthos and Cranaos: it is now surrounded by the rivers Mæander and Orsinus. In this district also was formerly Mæandropolis; we find also Eumenia, situate on the river Cludros, the river Glaucus, the town of Lysias and Orthosa, the d
istrict of Berecynthus, Nysa, and Tralles, also called Euanthia, Seleucia, and Antiochia: it is washed by the river Eudon, while the Thebais runs through it. Some authors say that a nation of Pygmies formerly dwelt here. Besides the preceding towns, there are Thydonos, Pyrrha, Eurome, Heraclea, Amyzon, the free town of Alabanda, which has given name to that jurisdiction, the free town of Stratonicea, Hynidos, Ceramus, Trœzene, and Phorontis. At a greater distance, but resorting to the same place of jurisdiction, are the Orthronienses, the Alindienses or Hippini, the Xystiani, the Hydissenses, the Apolloniataæ, the Trapezopolitæ, and the Aphrodisienses, a free people. Besides the above, there are the towns of Coscinus, and Harpasa, situate on the river Harpasus, which also passed the town of Trallicon when it was in existence.

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  CHAP. 30.

  LYDIA.

  Lydia, bathed by the sinuous and ever-recurring windings of the river Mæander, lies extended above Ionia; it is joined by Phrygia on the east and Mysia on the north, while on the south it runs up to Caria: it formerly had the name of Mæonia. Its place of the greatest celebrity is Sardes, which lies on the side of Mount Tmolus, formerly called Timolus. From this mountain, which is covered with vineyards, flows the river Pactolus, also called the Chrysorroas, and the sources of the Tarnus: this famous city, which is situate upon the Gygæan Lake, used to be called Hyde by the people of Mæonia. This jurisdiction is now called that of Sardes, and besides the people of the places already mentioned, the following now resort to it — the Macedonian Cadueni, the Loreni, the Philadelpheni, the Mæonii, situate on the river Cogamus at the foot of Mount Tmolus, the Tripolitani, who are also called the Antoniopolitæ, situate on the banks of the Mæander, the Apollonihieritæ, the Mesotimolitæ, and some others of no note.

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  CHAP. 31.

  IONIA.

  Ionia begins at the Gulf of Iasos, and has a long winding coast with numerous bays. First comes the Gulf of Basilicum, then the Promontory and town of Posideum, and the oracle once called the oracle of the Branchidæ, but now of Didymæan Apollo, a distance of twenty stadia from the seashore. One hundred and eighty stadia thence is Miletus, the capital of Ionia, which formerly had the names of Lelegëis, Pityusa, and Anactoria, the mother of more than ninety cities, founded upon all seas; nor must she be deprived of the honour of having Cadmus for her citizen, who was the first to write in prose. The river Mæander, rising from a lake in Mount Aulocrene, waters many cities and receives numerous tributary streams. It is so serpentine in its course, that it is often thought to turn back to the very spot from which it came. It first runs through the district of Apamea, then that of Eumenia, and then the plains of Bargyla; after which, with a placid stream it passes through Caria, watering all that territory with a slime of a most fertilizing quality, and then at a distance of ten stadia from Miletus with a gentle current enters the sea. We then come to Mount Latmus, the towns of Heraclea, also called by the same name as the mountain, Carice, Myus, said to have been first built by Ionians who came from Athens, Naulochum, and Priene. Upon that part of the coast which bears the name of Trogilia is the river Gessus. This district is held sacred by all the Ionians, and thence receives the name of Panionia. Near to it was formerly the town of Phygela, built by fugitives, as its name implies, and that of Marathesium. Above these places is Magnesia, distinguished by the surname of the “Mæandrian,” and sprung from Magnesia in Thessaly: it is distant from Ephesus fifteen miles, and three more from Tralles. It formerly had the names of Thessaloche and Androlitia, and, lying on the sea-shore, it has withdrawn from the sea the islands known as the Derasidæ and joined them to the mainland. In the interior also is Thyatira, washed by the Lycus; for some time it was also called Pelopia and Euhippia.

  Upon the coast again is Mantium, and Ephesus, which was founded by the Amazons, and formerly called by so many names: Alopes at the time of the Trojan war, after that Ortygia and Morges, and then Smyrna, with the surname of Trachia, as also Samornion and Ptelea. This city is built on Mount Pion, and is washed by the Caÿster, a river which rises in the Cilbian range and brings down the waters of many streams, as also of Lake Pegasæus, which receives those discharged by the river Phyrites. From these streams there accumulates a large quantity of slime, which vastly increases the soil, and has added to the mainland the island of Syrie, which now lies in the midst of its plains. In this city is the fountain of Calippia and the temple of Diana, which last is surrounded by two streams, each known by the name of Selenus, and flowing from opposite directions.

  After leaving Ephesus there is another Mantium, belonging to the Colophonians, and in the interior Colophon itself, past which the river Halesus flows. After this we come to the temple of the Clarian Apollo, and Lebedos: the city of Notium once stood here. Next comes the Promontory of Coryceium, and then Mount Mimas, which projects 150 miles into the sea, and as it approaches the mainland sinks down into extensive plains. It was at this place that Alexander the Great gave orders for the plain to be cut through, a distance of seven miles and a half, for the purpose of joining the two gulfs and making an island of Erythræ and Mimas. Near Erythræ formerly stood the towns of Pteleon, Helos, and Dorion; we now find the river Aleon, Corynæum, a Promontory of Mount Mimas, Clazomenæ, Parthenie, and Hippi, known by the name of Chytrophoria, when it formed a group of islands; these were united to the continent by the same Alexander, by means of a causeway two stadia in length. In the interior, the cities of Daphnus, Hermesia, and Sipylum, formerly called Tantalis, and the capital of Mæonia, where Lake Sale now stands, are now no longer in existence: Archæopolis too, which succeeded Sipylum, has perished, and in their turns Colpe and Libade, which succeeded it.

  On returning thence towards the coast, at a distance of twelve miles we find Smyrna, originally founded by an Amazon [of that name], and rebuilt by Alexander; it is refreshed by the river Meles, which rises not far off. Through this district run what may almost be called the most famous mountains of Asia, Mastusia in the rear of Smyrna, and Termetis, joining the foot of Olympus. Termetis is joined by Draco, Draco running into Tmolus, Tmolus into Cadmus, and Cadmus into Taurus. Leaving Smyrna, the river Hermus forms a tract of plains, and gives them its own name. It rises near Dorylæum, a city of Phrygia, and in its course receives several rivers, among them the one called the Phryx, which divides Caria from the nation to which it gives name; also the Hyllus and the Cryos, themselves swollen by the rivers of Phrygia, Mysia, and Lydia. At the mouth of the Hermus formerly stood the town of Temnos: we now see at the extremity of the gulf the rocks called Myrmeces, the town of Leuce on a promontory which was once an island, and Phocæa, the frontier town of Ionia.

  A great part also of Æolia, of which we shall have presently to speak, has recourse to the jurisdiction of Smyrna; as well as the Macedones, surnamed Hyrcani, and the Magnetes from Sipylus. But to Ephesus, that other great luminary of Asia, resort the more distant peoples known as the Cæsarienses, the Metropolitæ, the Cilbiani, both the Lower and Upper, the Mysomacedones, the Mastaurenses, the Briulitæ, the Hypæpeni, and the Dioshïeritæ.

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  CHAP. 32. (30.)

  ÆOLIS.

  Æolis comes next, formerly known as Mysia, and Troas which is adjacent to the Hellespont. Here, after passing Phocæa, we come to the Ascanian Port, then the spot where Larissa stood, and then Cyme, Myrina, also called Sebastopolis, and in the interior, Ægæ, Attalia, Posidea, Neon- tichos, and Temnos. Upon the shore we come to the river Titanus, and the city which from it derives its name. Grynia also stood here on an island reclaimed from the sea and joined to the land: now only its harbours are left. We then come to the town of Elæa, the river Caïcus, which flows from Mysia, the town of Pitane, and the river Canaïus. The following towns no longer exist — Canæ, Lysimachia, Atarnea, Carene, Cisthene, Cilla, Cocylium, Theba, Astyre, Chrysa, Palæscepsis, Gergitha, and Neandros. We then come to the city of Perperene, which still survives, the district of Heracleotes, the t
own of Coryphas, the rivers Grylios and Ollius, the region of Aphrodisias, which formerly had the name of Politice Orgas, the district of Scepsis, and the river Evenus, on whose banks the towns of Lyrnesos and Miletos have fallen to decay. In this district also is Mount Ida, and on the coast Adramytteos, formerly called Pedasus, which gives its name to the gulf and the jurisdiction so called. The other rivers are the Astron, Cormalos, Crianos, Alabastros, and Hieros, flowing from Mount Ida: in the interior is Mount Gargara, with a town of the same name. Again, on the coast we meet with Antandros, formerly called Edonis, and after that Cimmeris and Assos, also called Apollonia. The town of Palamedium also formerly stood here. The Promontory of Lecton separates Æolis from Troas. In Æolis there was formerly the city of Polymedia, as also Chrysa, and a second Larissa. The temple of Smintheus is still standing; Colone in the interior has perished. To Adramyttium resort upon matters of legal business the Apolloniatæ, whose town is on the river Rhyndacus, the Erizii, the Miletopolitæ, the Pœmaneni, the Macedonian Asculacæ, the Polichnæi, the Pionitæ, the Cilician Mandacadeni, and, in Mysia, the Abrettini, the people known as the Hellespontii, and others of less note.

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  CHAP. 33.

  TROAS AND THE ADJOINING NATIONS.

  The first place in Troas is Hamaxitus, then Cebrenia, and then Troas itself, formerly called Antigonia, and now Alexandria, a Roman colony. We then come to the town of Nee, the Scamander, a navigable river, and the spot where in former times the town of Sigeum stood, upon a promontory. We next come to the Port of the Achæans, into which the Xanthus flows after its union with the Simois, and forms the Palæscamander, which was formerly a lake. The other rivers, rendered famous by Homer, namely, the Rhesus, the Heptaporus, the Caresus, and the Rhodius, have left no vestiges of their existence. The Granicus, taking a different route, flows into the Propontis. The small city of Scamandria, however, still exists, and, at a distance of a mile and a half from its harbour, Ilium, a place exempt from tribute, the fountain-head of universal fame. Beyond the gulf are the shores of Rhœteum, peopled by the towns of Rhœteum, Dardanium, and Arisbe. There was also in former times a town of Achilleon, founded near the tomb of Achilles by the people of Mitylene, and afterwards rebuilt by the Athenians, close to the spot where his fleet had been stationed near Sigeum. There was also the town of Æantion, founded by the Rhodians upon the opposite point, near the tomb of Ajax, at a distance of thirty stadia from Sigeum, near the spot where his fleet was stationed. Above Æolis and part of Troas, in the interior, is the place called Teuthrania, inhabited in ancient times by the Mysians. Here rises the river Caicus already mentioned. Teuthrania was a powerful nation in itself, even when the whole of Æolis was held by the Mysians. In it are the Pioniæ, Andera, Cale, Stabulum, Conisium, Teium, Balcea, Tiare, Teuthranie, Sarnaca, Haliserne, Lycide, Parthenium, Thymbre, Oxyopum, Lygdamum, Apollonia, and Pergamum, by far the most famous city in Asia, and through which the river Selinus runs; the Cetius, which rises in Mount Pindasus, flowing before it. Not far from it is Elæa, which we have mentioned as situate on the sea-shore. The jurisdiction of this district is called that of Pergamus; to it resort the Thyatireni, the Mosyni, the Mygdones, the Bregmeni, the Hierocometæ, the Perpereni, the Tiareni, the Hierolophienses, the Hermocapelitæ, the Attalenses, the Panteenses, the Apollonidienses, and some other states unknown to fame. The little town of Dardanum is distant from Rhœteum seventy stadia. Eighteen miles thence is the Promontory of Trapeza, from which spot the Hellespont first commences its course.