Lonely Planet Kuala Lumpur, Melaka & Penang
Page 19
AFRIM
A GOOGLE MAP
A%03-6279 7592
Awww.frim.gov.my
Aadult/child RM5/1
Ah8.30am-7.30pm
AdKepong Sentral
Bukit Fraser (Fraser's Hill)
Explore
Of all Malaysia’s hill stations, Bukit Fraser (Fraser’s Hill) retains the most colonial-era charm. Spread across seven densely forested hills in the Titiwangsa Range at an altitude ranging from 1220m to 1524m, this cool, quiet and relatively undeveloped station offers hiking and birdwatching within a short stroll of the village centre. With some excellent old-world accommodation options, Bukit Fraser is one of the best overnight retreats close to KL.
The Best…
AActivity Bird-spotting
APlace to Eat Scott's Pub & Restaurant
APlace to Stay Ye Olde Smokehouse Fraser’s Hill
Top Tip
In May or June Bukit Fraser hosts an International Bird Race, in which teams of birdwatchers compete to observe and record the highest number of species in a set time period.
Getting There & Away
ATaxi The route to Bukit Fraser is via Chiling Waterfalls and Kuala Kubu Bharu (KKB). You can take a KTM Komuter train to KKB and then a taxi (one way RM100). There are few taxis at KKB, however, so rather than showing up and hoping for the best have your hotel arrange one for you. From Kuala Lumpur a taxi will cost around RM250.
ACar If driving yourself, note there’s no petrol station in Bukit Fraser; the nearest ones are found at Raub and KKB.
Need to Know
A Area Code 09
ALocation On the Selangor–Pahang border, 100km north of KL.
A Fraser’s Hill Tourist Information ( GOOGLE MAP ; %09-517 1623; www.pkbf.gov.my; Puncak Inn, Jln Genting)
1Sights
Bird Interpretive CentreMUSEUM
( GOOGLE MAP ; %09-3622 007; h10am-5pm Sat & Sun)F
For an overview of the birding scene, visit the Bird Interpretive Centre on the 2nd floor of the golf course clubhouse, across the village square. To access the centre during the week, ask at the Puncak Inn.
Jeriau WaterfallWATERFALL
About 4km northwest of the town centre, along Jln Air Terjun, is Jeriau Waterfall, where you can swim. It’s a 20-minute climb up from the road to reach the falls.
WORTH A DETOUR
GENTING HIGHLANDS
Though referred to as a hill station, Genting is a modern and heavily developed resort 2000m above sea level. About 50km north of KL, it’s in stark contrast to the Old English style of other Malaysian upland resorts. There are no walks here, no quaint stone village, and in general little public space to stroll about and enjoy the mountain scenery.
Genting’s raison d’être is Resort World Genting ( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2718 1888; www.rwgenting.com; hcasino open 24hrs), a glitzy casino billed as the only one in Malaysia, plus – coming soon – 20th Century Fox World, a vast theme park slated to open in 2017. Bird lovers should note that Genting is a prime location for birdwatching, with around 254 species seen here. The 3.4km-long Genting Skyway (www.rwgenting.com; one way RM6.40; h7.30am-midnight) is a gentle 11-minute cable-car glide above the dense rainforest. Kids will also enjoy the various theme-park attractions here including those at the First World Indoor Theme Park ( GOOGLE MAP ; adult/child RM29.70/31.80; h10am-midnight Mon-Fri, 9am-midnight Sat & Sun).
Genting is an easy day trip from KL but, if you’d prefer to stay, the resort has a choice of six hotels (sleeping a total of 10,000 people). Rates vary enormously, the most expensive nights generally being Saturday and public holidays; check the website. There’s no shortage of places to eat, including cheap fast-food outlets and noisy food courts.
Genting Express buses leave at 7.30am and then on the hour from 9am to 7pm from KL’s Pudu Sentral bus station (adult/child RM11/9.90, 1½ hours). The same service is offered on the hour from 8am to 8pm from KL Sentral (RM10.70/9.60). The price includes the return trip on the Skyway cable car. At these locations you can also join the Go Genting Package Day Tour (RM78), which includes return transport from KL, the Skyway transfer and either a theme-park pass or a combo meal.
A taxi from KL to the Skyway costs at least RM100.
5Eating & Drinking
Scott’s Pub & RestaurantPUB
( GOOGLE MAP ; www.thesmokehouse.my; Jln Genting; hnoon-10pm Thu-Tue)
A slice of olde England is recreated at this pub where you can sink a pint of Fuller's London Pride and indulge in all-day breakfasts, stuffed chicken, steak or sandwiches (mains RM15 to RM30).
Restoran ArzedMALAYSIAN$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %09-326 2299; 5 Food Garden, Pine Tree Rd; mains RM6.50-16.50; hnoon-10pm)
A friendly, family-run place at the Food Garden hawker centre, a 10-minute walk uphill from the clock tower. Come here for nasi goreng, roti canai and chicken and beef sets.
Hill ViewCHINESE$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; 3 Food Garden, Pine Tree Rd; mains RM16-30; h10am-9pm; v)
The family that has run this stall for a couple of generations serves up simple dishes. Find it in a hawker food court, a 10-minute walk uphill from the village square.
SLEEPING IN FRASER'S HILL
If you plan to stay overnight, schedule your visit for midweek. Accommodation rates increase steeply at weekends and on public holidays.
oYe Olde Smokehouse Fraser’s HillHOTEL$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %09-362 2226; www.thesmokehouse.my; Jln Jeriau; d/ste incl breakfast from RM280/400; W)
Exposed beams, log fires, four-poster beds and chintz – the Smokehouse goes for broke on its English-charm offensive. Even if you don’t stay here, drop by for a pint at the bar, or a well-made pie or roast at lunch (mains RM28 to RM70). Afternoon tea (RM28) is from 3pm to 6pm on the garden terrace, overlooking a wooded valley.
Puncak InnHOTEL$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %09-362 2007; puncakinn2@yahoo.com; Jln Genting; d incl breakfast from RM110, apt/cottages from RM150/300; iW)
This place offers the best-value rooms in Bukit Fraser and a handy central location. Apart from the hotel, it also offers studios, two- and three-bedroom apartments, and four cottages which can sleep between four and 15 people.
Shahzan Inn Fraser’s HillHOTEL$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %09-362 3300; shahzan7@yahoo.com; Jln Lady Guillemard; d/apt incl breakfast from RM200/660; W)
Overlooking the golf course – where guests receive a 20% discount – this is the most contemporary accommodation in Bukit Fraser.
2Activities
Mr DuraiBIRDWATCHING
( GOOGLE MAP ; %013-983 1633; durefh@hotmail.com; Shahzan Inn Fraser’s Hill, Jln Lady Guillemard; per group half-/full day RM200/600)
For one of Malaysia’s top birding guides, contact the eagle-eyed Mr Durai, who has been taking people birdwatching for 28 years.
Pine Tree TrailHIKING
The best-known trail in the Bukit Fraser area is the 5km Pine Tree Trail, which takes about eight to 10 hours return. You don’t need a guide, but you must register at the police station ( GOOGLE MAP ) in the village first. Note that it’s a long walk to the trailhead for those without a vehicle.
Hemmant TrailHIKING
( GOOGLE MAP )
This relatively flat and wide path runs above the golf course for 1km. The trailhead is a few minutes' walk up from the village square.
PaddockHORSE RIDING
( GOOGLE MAP ; short rides adult/child RM9/6.50; h9am-noon & 2-4.30pm Mon-Fri, to 7pm Sat & Sun)
This small but charming paddock east of the golf course offers very short rides on gentle retired horses.
Fraser’s Hill Golf ClubGOLF
( GOOGLE MAP ; %09-362 2129; Jln Genting; green fees/clubs RM40/40; h8am-6.30pm)
East of the village square is this picturesque nine-hole golf course, one of the oldest in the country. A 20% discount is often available for guests of hotels in the area.
WORTH A DETOUR
KUALA KUBU BHARU
Most travellers zip
through Kuala Kubu Bharu, 70km north of KL, on their way to Bukit Fraser. However, the pretty town, known as KKB, is the jumping-off point for a number of outdoor activities including cycling, as it's the start point for a gruelling 40km pedal up to Bukit Fraser. For rafting and other water activities on local rivers and dams, a recommended outfitter is Pierose Swiftwater (%013-361 3991; www.raftmalaysia.com; 11 Jln Damai 7; rafting per person from RM180; h8am-6pm).
Thirteen kilometres after KKB on Federal Rte 55, just a short distance past the Selangor Dam, look right for the entrance to the Santuari Ikan Sungai Chiling (Chiling River Fish Reserve). On weekends you can’t miss the spot as dozens of cars will be parked outside. Within the reserve you’ll find a rough camping ground and a highly popular trail up to the 20m-tall Chiling Waterfalls on the Sungai Chiling (Chiling River). It’s a 1½-hour walk starting from the small pedestrian bridge across the lot from the camping area. Register at the ranger's cabin by the bridge before you cross.
The route up is clearly marked, but it’s a good idea to go with a group or guide, since you have to cross the river five times and there is a risk of flash flooding. Happy Yen (%017-369 7831; www.happyyen.com; tours per person RM400) organises tours to the falls from KL, or join one of the many hiking groups.
KKB is connected to KL by the KTM Komuter train (RM8.70); you’ll need to change at Rawang. A taxi from the station into town costs RM5 to RM10. Sleeping options in KKB are limited since most visitors continue on to Bukit Fraser. On the road back to KL near the town of Serendah (35km from KKB), the designer self-catering accommodation at Sekeping Serendah (%012-324 6552; www.sekeping.com; 2-/4-/6-/10-person cabins from RM300/500/630/1160; s) makes for a blissfully peaceful rainforest retreat.
Klang Valley
Explore
Heading southwest of Kuala Lumpur along the Klang Hwy, the Kota Darul Ehsan ceremonial arch marks the transition between the city and Selangor. Just over the boundary, the mall-heavy suburb of Petaling Jaya (known locally as PJ) blends into Shah Alam, the state capital.
Next along is Klang, Selangor’s former royal capital. The town makes for a pleasant diversion and, if combined with a trip to nearby Pulau Carey and a sumptuous feast in the vibrant Little India, a good day out.
Efficient public transport makes for easy day trips along the Klang Valley to see the scattered sights. For a complete escape from urbanised Malaysia, journey to the end of the rail line and hop on a ferry to Pulau Ketam, an island with a picturesque fishing village surrounded by mangroves.
The Best…
ACool-Down Spot Sunway Lagoon
AMosque Masjid Sultan Salahuddin Abdul Aziz Shah
ASecret Garden 1 Utama
Top Tip
Check out the Klang Valley's contemporary-music pulse at Merdekarya ( GOOGLE MAP ; %016-2071 553, 016-2020 529; www.merdekarya.com; 1st fl, 352 Jln 5/57, Petaling Garden; h7pm-1am Tue-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat; mBank Rakyat-Bangsar), which hosts concerts and open-mic nights and sells local-interest books and CDs.
Getting There & Away
ABus From Pasir Seni in KL, frequent buses fan out to PJ, Shah Alam and Klang.
ALTR The Sri Petaling and Kelana Jaya LRT lines connect Putra Heights with central KL, passing numerous stations in Petaling Jaya on the way.
ATrain KTM Komuter trains run from KL Sentral to Shah Alam (RM2.50, 30 minutes, every 20 to 30 minutes) and Klang (RM5.40, one hour, every 20 to 30 minutes)
Need to Know
A Area Code 03
ALocation PJ is 10km, Shah Alam 20km and Klang 32km southwest of KL
ATourist Information www.tourismselangor.my/
1Sights
1Shah Alam
Masjid Sultan Salahuddin Abdul Aziz ShahMOSQUE
(Blue Mosque; GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5159 9988; h9am-noon, 2-4pm & 5-6.30pm, closed 11.30am-3pm Fri; dShah Alam)F
Known as the Blue Mosque, this is Southeast Asia’s second-biggest mosque (it can hold up to 24,000 worshippers), and has the distinction of sporting the world’s largest dome (for a religious building) and the tallest cluster of minarets, each more than 140m. Note that at research time the mosque was undergoing renovations and was closed to visitors.
Get a taxi from Shah Alam.
Laman Seni 7PUBLIC ART
(Lorong Belakang; GOOGLE MAP ; www.facebook.com/khznhstudio; Jln Plumbum Q7/Q, Shah Alam)F
If you're heading to Shah Alam, be sure to hunt out this fun street-art project in a hidden alley. The works on display include an intricately painted mural of a jungle scene and a Picasso-style abstract 3D piece incorporating plates. The project is a collaboration between Shah Alam City Council and artists from the KHZNH studio.
City of Digital Lights at i-CityAMUSEMENT PARK
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5521 8800; www.i-city.my; Jln Multimedia; water park/other attractions RM30/52; hCity of Digital Lights 5pm-midnight, water park 11am-7pm Mon & Wed-Fri, 10am-7pm Sat & Sun; dPadang Jawa)
This amusement park built around the theme of lighting, with forests of multicoloured trees, flamingos and peacocks, will appeal to kids and lovers of kitsch experiences alike. Among the attractions are a snowalk, where the air-con is cranked up to keep the fairy-lit snowmen happy, an outdoor funfair and a water park. Note that each attraction has a separate entrance fee.
Take a taxi from Padang Jawa.
1Klang
Galeri Diraja Sultan Abdul AzizMUSEUM
(%03-3373 6500; www.galeridiraja.com; Jln Stesen; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun)F
This handsome, whitewashed colonial-era building designed by AB Hubback and built in 1909 was first used as a British administrative centre. It now houses a mildly interesting royal gallery devoted to the history of the Selangor Sultanate, which dates back to 1766. Inside there’s a wide array of royal regalia, gifts and artefacts, including replicas of the crown jewels.
The museum is three blocks from the train station on Jln Stesen.
Masjid Di Raja Sultan SuleimanMOSQUE
(Jln Kota Raja)
This former state mosque, opened in 1934, is a striking blend of art deco and Middle Eastern influences. Several sultans are buried here. Note that at research time it was not possible to go inside the mosque because of ongoing repairs; once it's open, step inside to admire the stained-glass dome.
Klang Fire StationMUSEUM
(Jln Gedung Raja Abdullah; h8am-6pm)F
This working fire station has occupied the same Victorian-style building since 1890 and now also houses a small museum dedicated to the history of the Klang's fire service. If you're lucky, the fire station chief himself might be on hand to show you the exhibits, which include a wind-up siren from 1945, historic fire extinguishers, uniforms, hoses and nozzles.
Istana Alam ShahPALACE
(Jln Istana)
This was the Selangor sultan’s palace before the capital was moved to Shah Alam. You can’t enter, but the park opposite offers a decent view.
Head out of the train station along Jln Stesen and continue walking as the road heads up the hill. The Istana Alam Shah is on the left across from a park.
WORTH A DETOUR
ISLAND ESCAPES
The islands of Pulau Ketam (Crab Island; GOOGLE MAP ; www.pulauketam.com) and Pulau Carey – one reached by ferry, the other by road – are ideal antidotes to the Klang Valley’s urban sprawl.
Ketam means ‘crab’ and an abundance of these creatures is what first brought Chinese settlers to the island, a 30-minute ferry trip (return RM14) through the mangroves from Pelabuhan Klang. On arrival you’ll find a rickety yet charming fishing village built on stilts over the mudflats. Wander around the wooden buildings of the village then enjoy a Chinese seafood lunch at one of several restaurants. Ferries depart roughly every hour starting at 8.45am; the last ferry back from Pulau Ketam is at 5.30pm (6pm at weekends).
On Pulau Carey, the Mah Meri Cultural Village ( GOOGLE MAP ; %010-2522 800, 03-2282 3035; http://mmcv.org.my; Kampung Orang Asli Sungai Bumbun; RM7, with guide RM10; h9am-6pm Tue-Sun) is well worth a visit to learn ab
out the distinct culture and traditions of the Mah Meri, a subgroup of the Senoi people who live along the coast of Selangor. The Mah Meri are renowned for their masterful woodcarving and expressive masks worn during dance rituals to represent ancestral spirits. Call or email to make an appointment before making the journey out here since the villagers are not always around.
The village museum has excellent displays of Mah Meri art with accompanying texts explaining the mythologies and local legends informing each piece. You are likely to see villagers weaving origami, used to decorate houses and please the spirits. It's also possible to arrange demonstrations of dance and wedding rituals.
You can order woodcarvings at the village centre, or pick up less expensive, but still wonderfully pretty, woven baskets and mats made from pandanus leaves, or palm leaf origami. You can also rent rickety bikes (RM15 per hour) to explore the rest of the island.
The Mah Meri Cultural Village is well signposted. If you don’t have your own wheels, there are a couple of options for getting to the island. Check out the tour packages available on the website (minimum two people) or hire a taxi to Pulau Carey from Klang (return with a couple of hours on the island RM160).
5Eating & Drinking
5Shah Alam
oDewakanMALAYSIAN$$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-5565 0767; www.dewakan.my; lower ground fl, KDU University College, Jln Kontraktor U1/14, Shah Alam; 5/10 courses RM180/240; h6.30-10pm Mon-Sat; dBatu Tiga)