Lonely Planet Kuala Lumpur, Melaka & Penang
Page 29
Suffolk HouseINTERNATIONAL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.suffolkhouse.com.my; 250 Jln Ayer Itam; set lunch/dinner from RM40/65; hnoon-10.30pm)
Dishes such as beef pot pie and prawn crusted sea bass are on the main menu, but the best reason for heading to this beautifully restored 200-year-old Georgian-style mansion is to indulge in its traditional afternoon tea (RM45 per person), featuring freshly baked scones, dainty cakes and neatly cut sandwiches.
Entry to Suffolk House ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04-228 3930; http://suffolkhouse.com.my; 250 Jln Ayer Itam; adult/child RM20/free; h10am-6pm; g204) is deducted from your bill. A taxi here from central George Town will cost around RM15.
LOCAL KNOWLEDGE
CHINA HOUSE
You can't really say you've been to George Town unless you've stepped inside China House ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04-263 7299; www.chinahouse.com.my; 153 & 155 Lebuh Pantai; h9am-midnight). This block-wide amalgamation of shophouses is home to a variety of dining, drinking and shopping options. It all starts splendidly with the buzzy cafe-bakery, Kopi C ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.chinahouse.com.my; China House, 153 & 155 Lebuh Pantai; mains from RM10; h9am-midnight; W) serving scrumptious bakes, serious coffee and great light meals, and just gets better from there.
Return in the evening to experience the elegant yet relaxed restaurant BTB ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04-262 7299; www.chinahouse.com.my/index-new.html; 155 Lebuh Pantai; mains RM44.52-76.32; h6.30-10.30pm; av), the cocktail and wine bar Vine & Single ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04-263 7299; www.chinahouse.com.my; 153 & 155 Lebuh Pantai; h5pm-midnight), the live-music venue Canteen ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.chinahouse.com.my; 183B Lebuh Victoria; h9am-11pm). And don't forget about the boutique shop and art gallery upstairs!
LOCAL KNOWLEDGE
HAWKER-STALL HEAVEN
Not eating at a hawker stall in George Town is like skipping the Louvre in Paris – unthinkable! There are tonnes of hawker centres and stalls in and around town, from shophouse-bound kopitiam (cafes) to open-air markets made up of mobile stalls.
oLg Baru (New Lane) Hawker StallsHAWKER$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Jln Macalister & Lg Baru; mains from RM3; h6-10.30pm Thu-Tue)
Ask locals where their favourite hawker stalls are, and they’ll generally mention this night-time street extravaganza. Just about everything's available here, but we like the stall serving char koay kak (a wok-fried dish of rice cakes, egg, crunchy pickled vegetables and bean sprouts); it also does great otak otak (a steamed fish curry).
Lg Baru intersects with Jln Macalister about 250m northwest of the intersection with Jln Penang.
oPulau Tikus Hawker CentreHAWKER$
( GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Solok Moulmein & Jln Burma; h6am-2pm)
Before yet another bland guesthouse breakfast gets you down, consider a visit to this busy morning market area. A cluster of cafes sell Hokkien mee (yellow noodles fried with sliced meat, boiled squid, prawns and strips of fried egg), mee goreng (spicy fried noodles) and other dishes that have earned die-hard fans.
The market is about 2.5km north of Jln Penang; a taxi here will set you back about RM20.
Lebuh Presgrave Hawker StallsHAWKER$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Lebuh Presgrave & Lebuh Mcnair; h5pm-midnight Fri-Wed)
A famous Hokkien mee (yellow noodles fried with sliced meat, boiled squid, prawns and strips of fried egg) vendor draws most folks to this open-air hawker convocation, but there's lots to keep you around for a second course, from lor bak (deep-fried meats dipped in sauce) to a stall selling hard-to-find Peranakan dishes.
Sea Pearl Lagoon CafeHAWKER$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 338 Jln Tokong Thai Pak Koong, Tanjong Tokong; mains from RM8; h5-10pm Thu-Tue)
The unique location of this basic hawker centre – seemingly hidden in a Chinese temple complex looking out over the North Channel – and its excellent food make the Sea Pearl one of our favourite places to eat outside the city centre.
Sea Pearl Lagoon is 7km northwest of George Town. A taxi here will set you back RM25.
Joo Hooi CafeHAWKER$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 475 Jln Penang; mains from RM3-5.50; h11am-5pm)
The hawker-centre equivalent of one-stop shopping, this place has all of Penang’s best dishes: laksa, rojak (a 'salad' of crispy fruits and vegetables in a thick, slightly sweet dressing), char kway teow (broad noodles, clams and eggs fried in chilli and black bean sauce) and cendol (a sweet snack of squiggly noodles in shaved ice with palm sugar and coconut milk).
Kafe Heng HuatHAWKER$
( GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Jl Macalister & Lg Selamat; mains RM10; h10.30am-6.30pm Wed-Mon)
Outside Kafe Heng Huat you'll find Soon Chuan Choo who, in her trademark red chefs hat, has been knocking up some of Penang's best char kway teow (broad noodles, clams and eggs fried in chilli and black bean sauce) for more than 47 years. Adjacent stalls sell won ton mee (wheat-and-egg-noodle soup) and other Chinese Penang staples.
Lg Selamat intersects with Jln Macalister about 500m northwest of the intersection with Jln Penang.
Gurney Drive Hawker StallsHAWKER$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Persiaran Gurney; mains from RM4; h5pm-midnight)
One of Penang's most famous hawker complexes sits amid modern high-rise buildings bordered by the sea. It's particularly known for its laksa stalls (try stall 11) and the delicious rojak (a mixed vegetable dish with a thick shrimp-based sauce) at Ah Chye.
Gurney Drive is about 3km west of George Town. A taxi here will set you back RM20.
6Drinking & Nightlife
oMish MashCOCKTAIL BAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %017-536 5128; www.mishmashpg.com; 24 Jln Muntri; h2pm-midnight Tue-Sun)
Mish Mash has brought some unique booze – not to mention some much-needed panache – to George Town's drinking scene. Come for the city's most well-stocked bar, clever cocktails and some great non-alcoholic drinks (try the 'traditional ginger soda'), as well as a full tobacco counter.
oConstant GardenerCAFE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04-251 9070; www.constantgardener.coffee; 9 Lebuh Light; h9am-midnight Tue-Sun)
A serious venue for serious coffee drinkers, this attractive place brews its lattes with coveted beans from Malaysia and beyond, and serves some pristine-looking pastries and cakes.
oBeach Blanket BabylonBAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; http://32mansion.com.my/beach-bar-penang; 32 Jln Sultan Ahmad Shah; hnoon-midnight)
The open-air setting and relaxed vibe contrast with the rather grand building this bar is linked to. Pair your drink and al fresco views over the North Channel with tasty local dishes.
C&J Alabama ShakeBAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.facebook.com/cjalabamashake; 92 Lebuh Gereja; h2pm-late)
Just your average American boozer – if your average American bar was located in Malaysia and was run by a gregarious Serbian and a local. Come to think of it, there's little that's ordinary about this bar, previously known as B@92, but it gets it right – from tasty American-themed cocktails to slow-cooked pulled-pork sandwiches.
Mugshot CafeCAFE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.facebook.com/themugshotcafepenang; 302 Lebuh Chulia; h8am-midnight; W)
Chalk up your misdemeanour and make like one of the 'usual suspects' at this super-popular cafe serving a variety of bagel sandwiches and other baked goods from its neighbouring bakery. The homemade yoghurt with fruit and granola in glass jars is also luscious.
Micke's PlaceBAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.facebook.com/mikesplacelovelane; 94 Love Lane; hnoon-3am)
This eclectic bar/restaurant is both the longest-standing and most fun of the area's backpacker bars. Pull up a grafittied chair, bump to the vintage soundtrack, suck on a shisha and make a new friend.
MétisserTEAHOUSE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04-251 9739; www.facebook.com/metissermalaysia; 140-142 Jln Pintal Tali; hnoon-11pm Thu-Tue)
Offering some 60 different types of fine and flavoured teas from around the world from RM15 a pot, this pristine new tea salon does th
ings in a very pukka way, right down to white-gloved waiters serving your drink in china cups. There's also a very tempting range of pastries.
InchBAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04-261 1693; http://inchfoodbar.com; 44 Jln Muntri; h10am-midnight Wed-Mon)
A heritage building has been gutted to create several different styled spaces that make up this restaurant and bar. It rarely fills up but is worth visiting as it's one of the few places in town that stocks a small range of international craft beers.
Jing-Si Books & CafeCAFE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 31 Lebuh Pantai; h10am-7pm Mon-Sat, 8am-6pm Sun)
An oasis of spiritual calm, this outlet for a Taiwanese Buddhist group's teachings is a wonderful place to revive in hushed surroundings over a pot of interesting tea or coffee – all of which go for RM5.
Odeon Trick Art Cafe & RestaurantCAFE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04-251 9196; www.facebook.com/odeonpenang; 130 Jln Penang; hnoon-10pm)
A defunct cinema in a lovely art deco building has been transformed into this new entertainment attraction. The best part is the cafe and restaurant that occupies the old auditorium, which has a spectacular central spiral ramp and stage where live-music shows can take place. Some great cartoon images by local artist Kim Jung Gi decorate the walls.
LOCAL KNOWLEDGE
DINING & DRINKING WITH A VIEW
If you thought George Town looked pretty good at ground level, just give yourself some elevation to get the bird's-eye view on how attractive the city really is.
As well as the following favourites, the bar on the roof of Le Dream hotel is also worth dropping by.
oThree Sixty Revolving Restaurant & Sky BarCOCKTAIL BAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04-261 3540; http://360rooftop.com.my; Bayview Hotel George Town, 25A Lebuh Farquhar; h6.30-10.30pm; W)
Although, as the name indicates, there's a revolving restaurant (buffet RM88), we prefer the adjacent open-air Sky Bar. For cocktails at sunset in central George Town it simply can't be beaten.
oGravityBAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.ghotelkelawai.com.my/dining-gravity.html; G Hotel Kelawei, 2 Persiaran Maktab; h5pm-1am)
Yes, it's a hotel pool bar. But the breezy rooftop location and spectacular views both out to sea and across to Penang Hill make Gravity one of the island's top sundowner destinations. Plus for RM55 you can enjoy free-flow house wines all night.
Top View Restaurant & LoungeINTERNATIONAL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04-262 5960; http://thetop.com.my; Level 59 & 60 KOMTAR, Jln Penang; set lunch Mon-Sat RM48, Sun brunch adult/child RM78/48, dinner from RM88; h10am-10pm Mon-Fri, 8am-10pm Sat & Sun; W)
The impressive buffet spreads at the top of KOMTAR complement the panoramic city views. On weekends it also offers a sunrise breakfast (RM48) from 8am to 10am. Or you can drop by for a drink and a snack (RM28) anytime during opening hours.
7Shopping
oShop HowardARTS & CRAFTS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04-2611 917; www.studiohoward.com; 154 Jln Masjid Kapitan Keling; h10am-6pm)
Pick up one of Howard Tan's distinctive photographic prints at this compact gift boutique also selling unique postcards, art, handicrafts and books on local topics, all made by other local artists.
There's a second branch at the rear of Fuan Wong ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04-262 9079; www.fuanwong.com; 13 Lebuh Armenia; h10am-6pm Mon-Sat).
oTropical Spice Garden In TownARTS & CRAFTS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 29 Lebuh China; h9am-5pm)
Linked with Batu Ferringhi's Tropical Spice Garden, this fragrant shop sells soaps, essential oils, dried spice and other spice-related goods as well as artworks by owner Rebecca Duckett (http://rebeccaduckett.com).
oBon TonARTS & CRAFTS
(China Joe’s; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 95 Lebuh Armenian; h10am-7pm)
Head here for fabrics – both new and antique – boxes, stationery, coffee-table books, art pieces, bags and other classy Asian bric-a-brac.
There's also a branch above China House, and for bigger pieces of furniture and more of its stock check out 179 The House (179 Lebuh Pantai).
oBatek-LahFASHION & ACCESSORIES
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04-228 2910; www.batek-lah.com; 158 Jln Transfer; h11am-7pm Mon-Sat)
Malaysian-produced batik printed cloth is made up into a variety of men's and women's fashions and gift items here. Some of the more expensive designs are hand-drawn rather than block-printed, making them unique.
Staff can also arrange for clothes tailored to your request using your choice of batik cloth.
oUnique PenangARTS & CRAFTS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.uniquepenang.com; 62 Love Lane; h5-11pm Mon-Fri, 6pm-midnight Sat & Sun)
Be charmed by the colourful artworks, prints and postcards of friendly young owners Clovis and Joey, as well as the many images created by the young art students they train here.
As the couple points out, paintings are hard to squeeze in a backpack, so nearly all of the gallery’s art is available in postcard size, which they will even arrange to post for you at a time of your choosing.
oMoon ShopGIFTS & SOUVENIRS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.facebook.com/moonshopgallery; 38/1 Lebuh Farquhar; h11am-7pm Tue-Sun)
Tan Wei Min creates lush and beautiful terrariums in everything from small glass jars to giant globes. Buying one is like taking home a piece of the tropics. Even if you're not in the market for a plant, the shop is well worth visiting for a hand-brewed artisan coffee or matcha (powdered green tea) drink.
oGerak BudayaBOOKS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04-261 0282; http://gerakbudayapenang.com; 78 Jln Masjid Kapitan Keling; h11am-8pm)
If you're looking for books about Malaysia and the region, or books written by local authors, this is the place to come – the selection is unsurpassed.
Chop KongsiARTS & CRAFTS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.etsy.com/people/ChopKongsi; 82C Lebuh Penang; h10am-6pm)
The charming artist Fu Mei Lin will likely list plenty of things in her cosy shop that she doesn't want to sell. Nevertheless stick with it and you're sure to find some lovely piece of jewellery or fabric art that she has created.
ottokedaiARTS & CRAFTS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.facebook.com/otto.kedai; 174 Lebuh Victoria; h10am-7pm Mon-Thu, until 10pm Fri-Sun)
This tiny, charming shop has a carefully curated selection of local items, from edibles to literature. Look out for the tote bags, stationery and T-shirts with prints inspired by George Town.
Sam’s Batik HouseCLOTHING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04-262 1095; http://samsbatikhouse.com; 183-185 Jln Penang; h8am-7pm)
Nicknamed ‘Ali Baba’s Cave’, this deep shop of silky and cottony goodness is one of the best places in town to buy sarongs, batik shirts and Indian fashions.
Gurney PlazaMALL
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.gurneyplaza.com.my/en; Persiaran Gurney; h10am-10pm)
In addition to more than 300 shops, including the department store Parkson, Penang’s biggest and boldest mall includes tonnes of food and beverage outlets, a multiplex cinema, amusement theme park and fitness centre and beauty spa.
A taxi here from central George Town costs about RM15.
LOCAL KNOWLEDGE
GEORGE TOWN'S MARKETS
George Town has some wonderful old-school markets, such as the ones on Lebuh Campbell ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; cnr of Lebuh Campbell & Lebuh Carnarvon; h6am-noon), Jln Kuala Kangsar ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jln Kuala Kangsar; h6am-noon) and Lebuh Cecil (Pasar Lebuh Cecil; GOOGLE MAP ; 40-48 Lebuh Cecil; h9am-7pm). You'll see butchers and fishmongers here in all their visceral glory alongside vendors of fresh fruit, vegetables and all kinds of daily goods as well as a smattering of crafts. Cecil St Market is a particularly good spot for grazing on hawker food, too, as is the Macallum Street Night Market ( GOOGLE MAP ; Lingtan Macallum 1; h6-10.30pm Mon).
Modern George Town markets cater more for tourists and serve to showcase the up-and-coming talents of Penang's creative scene. The best of them
is Hin Bus Depot's Pop-Up Market ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Hin Bus Depot, 31A Jln Gurdwara; h11am-5pm Sun) every Sunday but you might also find something interesting at the Occupy Beach Street (Legally) ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.facebook.com/occupybeachstreet; Lebuh Pantai; h7am-1pm Sun) event, also every Sunday, and the monthly Little Penang Street Market ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.littlepenang.com.my; Jln Penang; h10am-5pm last Sun of month).
2Activities & Tours
There’s a huge variety of self-guided tours of George Town, from food walks to those focusing on traditional trades or architecture – pick up a pamphlet of the routes at Penang Global Tourism or the Penang Heritage Trust. Likewise, the Penang Global Ethic Project (www.globalethicpenang.net) has put together a World Religion Walk that takes you past the iconography and houses of worship of Christians, Muslims, Hindus, Sikhs, Buddhists and Chinese traditional religion.
If walking isn't your thing, consider the Hop-On Hop-Off (www.myhoponhopoff.com/pg; single trip adult/child RM20/10, 24hr pass adult/child RM40/19; h9am-8pm) city bus route, which winds its way around the perimeter of the Unesco Protected Zone. It’s a good way to get a quick overview of the town, and you can get on and off at one of 17 stops.