Lost in Shangri-la
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regard for survivors of, 139–40, 155
sexual practices of, 120, 197, 228, 273, 282
social structure of, 117
Stone Age culture of, 22, 26–27, 129, 183, 222
survivors’ first encounter with, 103, 115, 128–40
survivors sighted by, 100
temporary suspension of warfare by, 201, 227
and viewing of Gremlin Special crash, 125–27
villages of, 22–24, 23, 47, 86–87, 189; see also Uwambo
violence against, 79, 89, 90–91
warfare and, see warfare, as basis of Native New Guinean society
as wary of survivors, 136–37
weapons of, see weapons, Native New Guinean
westerners’ early encounters with, 87–89
women, see women, Native New Guinean
see also Dani tribe; Yali tribe
neighborhoods, 117, 184
Newcomer, George R., 39, 56
New Guinea:
contemporary, 300–303
downed and missing planes in, 71–74
flora and fauna of, 14, 58–59, 74, 84
geography and topography of, 9–11, 10
inhospitable jungle habitat of, 58–59, 61, 63, 76–79, 150, 166, 174
isolation of, 10–11, 301
maladies and illnesses in, 15
maps of, 10, 20, 90, 98
native inhabitants of, see Dani tribe; Native New Guineans; Yali tribe
natural beauty of, 15, 58–59
as part of Indonesia, 301
trading with, 11
western exploration of, 10–11, 84–85
in World War II, 11; see also Hollandia military base
New York Mirror, 27
New York Times, 8, 89, 223, 247–48, 306
Nicholson, Alice, 314
George Nicholson’s letter to, 37–39, 55
Nicholson, George H., Jr., 38, 215, 314, 320
as co-pilot on Gremlin Special, 37, 45–50, 65, 98
death of, 55
educational and military background of, 37–39
exoneration of, 215
limited piloting experience of, 45–50, 65
personal misgivings of, 38–39
Nicholson, Margaret, 215, 314
nicknames, bestowed by natives, 228, 273, 282–83
no-man’s land, 184, 199, 283
Norris, Hilliard, 39, 56
Nuarauke, 282
Obama, Barack, 302
O’Brien, Denise, 85
Ogi ridge, 125, 201, 214, 238, 302
Okinawa, battle of, 8, 223, 268
Oranje mountain range, 19, 44, 105, 206, 242
Oswald, Lee Harvey, 305
Owego, New York, 1, 3, 6–7, 12, 13, 312–13
Owego Free Academy, 312
P-38 Lightning fighters, 8
P-47 Thunderbolts, 305
Pallas Athena, 97–98
Palmer, Henry E. “Red,” 256–57, 288, 305, 320
and gilder snatch mission, 262–63, 265, 277, 287–94
Papua New Guinea, 301
Papuans, 301
Papua province, Indonesia, 301
Parachute Infantry Regiments, 105
parachutes, 166–67, 243–45, 250, 295–96
and dangers of jungle jumps, 173–77, 182–83
paratroopers, 106–7, 141
Filipino-American, 112–13, 141–42, 144
see also 1st Reconnaissance Battalion (Special); 5217th Reconnaissance Battalion
Patterson, Harry E., 27–30, 31, 122, 319
Pattisina, Corporal, 89
PBY bombers, 82–83
Pearl Harbor, 7, 21, 30, 108, 110, 146, 163, 259
Peggy (pig), 252, 254, 300
penis gourds (horim), 86, 129, 131, 135, 185, 188, 189, 228, 229, 291, 301, 346
Philippine-American War (1898–1902), 145
Philippines, 107, 110–11, 145–46
World War II in, 8–9, 11, 21, 36, 106, 111, 113, 142, 146–47, 163, 249, 306, 308
Philippine Scouts, 163
pig feasts, 171–72, 202
pigs, 22, 25, 85, 86, 118, 122, 134, 170, 237, 238, 252, 269, 302
rebirth of, 273
“Pika,” 199
Piri, Sikman, 282
poverty, 301
Pratt & Whitney engines, 14
Presidential Unit Citations, 306
press, media, 27, 220–27, 232, 233–34, 271, 286, 298, 300
attention to Margaret in, 223, 224, 225, 227, 235, 312
Morton-Simmons journalistic rivalry in, 222–24, 249
scant coverage of 1st Recon in, 234–35
sensational tone of, 222–23
Prossen, David, 16, 17, 304
Prossen, Evelyn, 16–17, 32
Prossen, Lyneve, 16
Prossen, Peter, Jr., 16, 17, 17, 304
Prossen, Peter J., 17, 37, 45, 211, 220, 304
as caring commander, 18, 32, 45
death of, 55
as devoted family man, 16–17
as pilot on Gremlin Special, 39–40, 44–50, 98, 104
Protestant Digest, 221
Pyle, Ernie, 27
queen, the (native woman), 274–76, 275, 280–81, 290
husband of, 280
Queen, The (airplane), 189
Ramirez, Camilo “Rammy” “Mua,” 142, 162–65, 165, 166–67, 173–80, 193–94, 195, 196, 208, 227–28, 235, 237, 253, 298, 307–8, 320
Ray Jr., 292
Rescue from Shangri-La (film), 307
Reuters, 221
Riley, Frank, 154
Robb, Inez, 333
Rockefeller, John D., 80
Rockefeller, Michael, 316
Roosevelt, Franklin D., 1, 8, 30, 145–47
Roosevelt, Theodore, 145
Ruiz, Don, 165, 200, 210, 220, 253, 298, 307, 314
St. George, Ozzie, 271
Sambom, Maruk, 137
Sambom, Pugulik “Trouble Maker,” 125, 136–37
Samuels, William J., 264–65, 277–78, 280, 288–89, 292–95, 292, 305–6, 320
sanitary napkins, 192, 236, 254
Science, 300
Scott, Dennie McCollom, see McCollom, Mary Dennise “Dennie”
Scott, Robert Falcon, 80
Seabees, 255, 279
seaplanes, amphibious aircraft, 105, 181 255, 300, 303
see also Guba
search and rescue mission:
base camp for, 181–89, 243–45, 252–54, 268–91
burial duty of, 210–14
departure from base camp of, 232–38
evacuation plans for, 255–57, 262–67
glider snatch mission of, see glider snatch mission
Hollandia plans for, 96, 98, 181
impediments to, 105–6, 150, 165, 173–75, 256
rescue options for, 105–6, 181–82
supply drops of, 152–53, 155–57, 159, 167–68, 192, 193, 198, 209–10, 268–69, 271
survivors’ hope for, 65–66, 78, 99
Walter’s personnel choices for, 162–65
Sentani Airstrip, 32, 34, 44, 53, 65, 96, 101, 173, 182, 192, 250, 298
sepsis, 93
Shangri-La, 19–30, 301
Archbold’s discovery of, 79, 80–91, 300
base camp at, see Camp Shangri-La
beauty of, 21–22
Elsmore’s first view of, 19–25
Grimes’s discovery of, 19–24
isolation of, 26–27, 115
native inhabitants of, see Native New Guineans
origin of name, 29–30, 31, 333
population estimates of, 84, 85–86, 116, 273
potential dangers of, 24
press coverage of, see press, media
as undiscovered, 84–86
“Shangri-La Society,” 31, 36, 311, 334
Shaw, Clay, 305
shell necklace, 276–77
shooting death, of Native New Guinean, 79, 89
misleading reports of, 90–91
see also Gremlin Special
Simmons, Walter, 220–27, 229, 235, 249, 278–79, 320
later life and death of, 306–7
sky spirits, 123–24, 126–27, 133–34, 184–85, 197, 201, 202, 214, 230–31, 236, 238, 300, 303
western appearance of, 124, 126
see also Uluayek legend
smiles, 130–32
Smiley (native boy), 365
snatches, 261–64
mechanics of, 266–67
Waco mission, see glider snatch mission
Soldier’s Medal, 307, 309
Spanish-American War (1898), 144–45
Stars of David, 210, 213, 214, 297
“streamers,” 175
swap meets, 269
Swart Valley, 85
sweet potatoes (camote; hiperi), 47, 87, 102, 122, 129, 135, 140, 170, 178–79, 230, 238, 275, 302
Teerink, C. G. J., 88, 89
Thanksgiving feast, 171
33rd Troop Carrier Squadron, 264
311 supply plane, 205, 234, 268, 271, 286, 287, 292
tobacco, smoking, 88, 116, 134, 155, 238, 291, 301
tomatoes, 155–56, 158
“Tommy Gun,” 198
Toots Shor’s, 312
tourism, 301–2
tow planes, 257, 258, 260, 264–65, 266–67
tribes, 117
Truman, Harry S., 1
and atom bomb, 268
Mother’s Day declaration of, 7–8
“turbulence testers,” 174
Ulio, James A., 3
Uluayek legend, 123–24, 126, 230–31, 291, 300
survivors included in, 238
Unciano, Isaac, 250
unh, 138, 169, 280
United Nations charter, 268
“United States Army Outpost at Shangri-La,” 252, 309
USAF Cemetery, Hidden Valley, No. I, 304
Uwambo, 124–40, 155–57, 165–72, 176–80, 184, 190–203, 214, 216–20, 224–31, 240–42, 357
Van Arcken, J. E. M., 88–89, 90, 342
V-E Day, 7–8
Velasco, Roque, 165, 200, 242, 252, 265, 274, 280–81, 298, 307, 320
Verne, Jules, 105
Victory Bonds, 313
Vietnam War, 305
Vision of Sir Launfal (Lowell), 44
Waco CG-4A, 259–62, 259
as dangerous, 260–61, 263
in glider snatch mission, 262–67, 277–80, 285–97
impediments to evacuation by, 263, 277–80
snatches of, 261–62
in World War II, 261–62
Wakde Island, 265, 266, 277–78, 285
Waldo, Cornelius, 99, 193, 213, 215
Walela, Dagadigik, 277
Walela, Keaugi, 276–77, 277
walkie talkies, 153, 167, 187, 204, 213, 227
Walter, C. Earl, Jr., 107, 111, 117, 119, 149, 165, 187, 272, 273–74, 298, 302, 303, 320, 334
admiration of survivors for, 239–41
as amateur anthropologist, 228–31, 271
ankle injury of, 240–41
at “Camp Shangri-La,” 268, 271–73
cultural bias of, 186–89, 198, 202, 228, 230, 270–71
description of Native New Guineans by, 229–30
determination of, 148
as eager for combat, 113–14, 141–44, 148, 217, 232–33, 286, 308
and encounter with Dani tribe, 184–89
father’s approval sought by, 148, 151, 232, 309
in friendship with Cann, 251
high spirits of, 208
impatience of, 217–20, 232–33
journal of, 186, 198–99, 200–201, 202–3, 204, 208, 212, 214, 217–20, 228, 232–33, 239, 270, 286, 309
and life after Shangri-La, 304, 308–9, 308
machismo of, 207
manhood display of, 188
maturity of, 286–87
in media, 224–25
military experience of, 110–14
resourcefulness of, 109
and respect and admiration for 1st Recon troops, 205, 235, 254, 289, 307
in search and rescue mission, 148–51, 162–67, 173–75, 181–90, 239–42
sense of humor of, 228–29
and shell necklace, 276–77
show of force by, 198–99, 284
in trek to survivors’ camp, 200–203
undisciplined early years of, 107–10
Walter, C. Earl, Sr., 107–12, 111, 114, 144, 145, 148, 151, 232, 309
Walter, Sally Holden, 110, 112, 188, 220, 226, 308–9
Wamena, Papua New Guinea, 300–302, 302
Wandik, Gilelek, 169–70
Wandik, Helenma, 100, 125, 126, 128, 133, 196–97, 238, 303, 348
Wandik, Nalarik, 125
Wandik, Sinangke, 133
Wandik, Tomas, 237
Wandik, Wimayuk “Chief Pete,” 127, 131–39, 159, 302, 320
bond between Margaret and, 136, 138, 172
curiosity of, 190
and departure of westerners, 236–38
flexibility of, 134
as friend of survivors, 140, 169–70
in handshake with McCollom, 132
as tribal leader, 133–34, 177
Wandik, Yaralok, 125, 126, 133, 157, 201
Wandik, Yunggukwe, 136–37
pig of, 125, 157, 210, 214, 303, 351
War Department, U.S.:
condolence telegrams of, 214–15
Public Relations office of, 314
warfare:
as basis of Native New Guinean society, 27, 30, 82, 117–22, 123, 128–29, 184, 198, 201, 238, 283, 301
native vs. modern, 27, 118, 122, 129–30
weapons:
modern, 129–30, 183–84, 198–99, 298
Native New Guinean, 87, 88–89, 103, 128, 131, 177, 183–84, 185, 200, 269, 288
Weber, Melvyn, 56
Westmoreland, William, 257
Whitney, Courtney, 142–44, 349–50
Wilhelmina, Mount, 45, 84
Winchell, Walter, 27
women:
Native New Guinean, 87, 116, 118, 120, 121, 122, 123, 170, 198, 202, 230, 231, 270–71
in World War II, 96–97; see also Women’s Army Corps (WACs)
Women’s Airforce Service Pilots (WASPs), 97
Women’s Army Corps (WACs), 2, 5, 7, 11–13, 60
aboard Gremlin Special, 35–37, 96
in Hanna’s funeral, 304
at Hollandia, 5, 5, 12, 13–16, 96–98
Women’s Auxiliary Ferrying Squadron (WAFS), 97
wooden crosses, 210, 213, 214, 297
World War I, 11, 20, 40, 55, 111, 213, 257
World War II, 1, 5, 33, 248
American casualties in, 3
in Europe, 37–38, 97, 260–61
German surrender in, 7
Japan in, 8, 11–12
in Pacific, 8, 11, 24, 106, 111–12, 260, 268
women in, 96–97; see also Women’s Army Corps (WACs)
Wosi, 184, 198, 199, 201
Wright brothers flight, 257
Yali tribe, 117, 124–27, 129, 139, 184, 197, 357
survivors’ camp near, 124–40, 155–57, 167–72, 176–80, 190–203, 214, 216–20, 224–31, 240–42
Yank, 271
Zuckoff, Mitchell, 303, 309, 351
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
THIS STORY WAITED a long time to be told, but it didn’t wait untended. A remarkable collection of people lovingly preserved documents, letters, scrapbooks, maps, photographs, movies, and, most of all, memories.
I am indebted above all to C. Earl Walter Jr., without whom I would never have attempted to write this book. Earl welcomed me into his home; shared his scrapbooks, photos, and journals; and poured out stories of Shangri-La. Thanks also to his daughter Lisa Walter-Sedlacek.
Buzz Maxey provided indispensable help during my trip to the Baliem Valley, aka Shangri-La. He guided me to the surviving witnesses, translated thei
r accounts, and interpreted the cultural meaning of their responses. I admire his dedication to the welfare of the people of Papua, and I encourage others to follow his path. Thanks also to Myrna, Ben, and Dani Maxey. Tomas Wandik skillfully guided me up the mountain and through the jungle to the crash site. His daughter Nande Mina Wandik made an ideal hiking companion. I’m deeply grateful to Helenma Wandik, Yunggukwe Wandik, Ai Baga, Lisaniak Mabel, Hugiampot, Narekesok Logo, and Dagadigik Walela for their eyewitness accounts.
Emma Sedore, historian of Tioga County, New York, provided priceless assistance and suggestions. Without her, much of Margaret Hastings’s story might have been lost. Thanks also to Roger Sharpe and Kevin Sives at the Tioga County Historical Society.
The lovely Betty “B.B.” McCollom gave me rich insight into her late husband, John, and graciously shared his scrapbooks and photographs. Dennie McCollom Scott provided invaluable information and suggestions. Rita Callahan told me stories about her sister Margaret Hastings and their father, Patrick Hastings. She directed me to Margaret’s childhood friend Mary Scanlon, whose memories enriched me and this book.
Peter J. Prossen Jr. helped me to understand his father, and I admire his candor. Maryrose Condon, John McCarthy, and Michael McCarthy helped me to know their cousin, Major George H. Nicholson Jr. Roberta Koons kindly shared memories of her sister, Eleanor Hanna. Gerta Anderson helped me to know Laura Besley. My new friend Melvyn Lutgring generously told the story of his father’s guilt over giving his job on the flight crew to his best friend, Melvin “Molly” Mollberg. Alexandra Cann delighted me with yarns about her larger-than-life father, for whom she was named.
Documentary filmmaker Robert Gardner spent time in the 1990s researching this story as a possible follow-up to Dead Birds, his brilliant film about the Dani people. He gave me rare files that would have been impossible to replicate. His unaired interviews with John McCollom enabled me to see and hear Mac from beyond the grave. Thanks also to Michael Hutcherson for reproducing the interview tapes.
My understanding of the Dani was greatly enriched by Dr. Myron Bromley, whose close reading of this manuscript and thought-provoking suggestions are sincerely appreciated. I also thank James Sunda, who along with Myron was among the first missionaries to enter the valley. Professor Karl Heider’s impressive research on the Dani, amplified by his e-mail correspondence, was enlightening.
Dona Cruse learned of the crash through her mother, Ruth Coster, who was supposed to be aboard the flight. Dona shared her voluminous knowledge and research of these events. Colonel Pat Jernigan (retired) was a remarkable, indefatigable resource who answered my questions and provided valuable insight.
Major Myron Grimes (retired) never got much credit for being the first U.S. Army Air Forces pilot to spot the valley from the air. He made me feel as though I was in the cockpit with him, and I’m thankful for the ride. George Theis of the National Association of World War II Glider Pilots saved me from gliding into a fusillade of errors.