In Memory of Bread

by Paul Graham

  Derived from a mold: Information on the brewing process and history of Omission Beer are from the author’s interview with Amy Jeuck, December 21, 2014.

  autoimmune reaction in a person: “Beer from Barley Malt Made Gluten-Free with Brewers Clarex” (DSM Food Specialties BV), 1–2.

  According to Omission’s brewmaster: Phone interview with Joe Casey, January 2015.

  Swedish study: “Gluten Content in Beer,” SLV, 2005, trans. Theresa Simoni, “Gluteninnehall i de ol som analsyerats vid Livsmedelsverket.” Livsmedelsverket, Oktober 2005.

  13. Summer Rituals

  David Buchanan: David Buchanan, Taste, Memory: Forgotten Foods, Lost Flavors, and Why They Matter (White River Junction, VT: Chelsea Green Publishing, 2012), 200.

  14. GF by Choice

  The Gluten-Free Edge was published: See Peter Bronski and Melissa McLean Jory, The Gluten-Free Edge (New York: The Experiment, 2012).

  Some studies suggest: Runners’ forums on the internet are full of conversations on this question, but an interesting scientific study emerged in 1987: “Acute Ischaemic Colitis in a Female Long Distance Runner,” Gut 28, 1987: 296–99.

  it is derived from the Latin: Oxford English Dictionary.

  16. Avoiding the Doctor

  “dispatching a lunch”: A. J. Liebling, “A Good Appetite.” Reprinted in Secret Ingredients: The New Yorker Book of Food and Drink, ed. David Remnick (New York: Modern Library, 2008), 30–45.

  17. Getting GF with America’s Test Kitchen

  popular online recipe: http://food52.​com/​recipes/​28886-my-​new-roots-​life-changing-​loaf-of-​bread.

  Technically an herb: According to the University of Maryland Medical Center, “Psyllium is a soluble fiber used primarily as a gentle bulk forming laxative in products such as Metamucil. It comes from a shrub-like herb called Plantago ovata that grows worldwide but is most common in India. Each plant can produce up to 15,000 tiny, gel coated seeds, from which psyllium husk is derived.” http://umm.​edu/​health/​medical/​altmed/​supplement/​psyllium.

  Thus the dough can trap: The How Can It Be Gluten Free Cookbook (America’s Test Kitchen, 2014), 21.

  led M. F. K. Fisher to liken: M. F. K. Fisher, “How to Rise Up Like New Bread,” The Art of Eating (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, 2004), 246–47.

  When I finally spoke to Jack Bishop: Phone interview, July 12, 2014.

  18. Rising Hopes

  Celiac Disease Foundation Conference: June 7–8, 2014, Pasadena, CA. Speakers included Alessio Fasano, MD, founder of the Boston Center for Celiac Research; and Dr. John Zone, professor and chair of the Department of Dermatology at the University of Utah.

  When we met them: June 9, 2014, Whisk Gluten-Free Bakery, Pasadena, CA.

  almost the same process as Omission: For all of my misgivings about drinking a GR beer that is not made in a dedicated GR facility, the process, according to the Stone Delicious IPA website, is much the same. Instead of using Brewers Clarex, Stone uses Clarity Ferm, a clarifying product introduced during the fermentation stage that also disrupts the formation of epitopes. Like Omission, the GR/GF certifier White Labs uses the R-5 Competitive ELISA Gliadin assay, which according to White Labs’ website is able to detect gluten down to 10 PPM.

  track down Eliza Hale: September 15, 2015.

  19. Harvest Time

  One day closer to the winter: December 17, 2015, Heuvelton, NY.

  20. A Bakery of Our Own

  North Country’s first gluten-free bakery: I spoke several times with Chris Durand, most extensively on March 18, 2015. Durand and his staff were trained by the America’s Test Kitchen staff at the King Arthur Flour offices in Norwich, Vermont. Still in the process of establishing his business, he had some stark numbers to share: $147,000 to prep the bakery for opening, and an estimated $1,000 gross per day to break even—which is five hundred $2.00 cupcakes. Like the costs that eaters with celiac disease face at the checkout, Durand’s costs were largely driven by materials: a forty-bag pallet of King Arthur GF flour—“the Cadillac of flours,” in his words—costs $29,000 and has a one-year shelf life. If there was a silver lining, it was that all of that flour had, by his estimate, led to a 69-percent repeat business after the first six weeks.

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