Luxury World: The Past, Present and Future of Luxury Brands
Page 27
The next time we covet a luxury of some kind, or admonish somebody else for doing so, it may be helpful to remember Patrizia’s theory that the pursuit of luxury has contributed to art and culture – and perhaps to civilization as a whole.
In any case, even if we finally decide to turn our back on it, luxury is impervious to our scorn. Consumers come and go, economies boom and bust – but luxury endures.
References
* * *
BOOKS
Benaïm, Laurence (2002) Yves Saint Laurent, Bernard Grasset, Paris
Berry, Christopher J (1994) The Idea of Luxury, Cambridge University Press, Cambridge
Blume, Mary and Lartigue, Jacques-Henri (2001) Lartigue’s Riviera, Flammarion, Paris and New York
Castarède, Jean (2007) Histoire du Luxe en France, Groupe Eyrolles, Paris
Chadha, Radha and Husband, Paul (2006) The Cult of the Luxury Brand, Nicholas Brealey International, London and Boston
Chevalier, Michel and Mazzalovo, Gérald (2008) Luxury Brand Management: A world of privilege, John Wiley & Sons (Asia), Singapore
Cologni, Franco (2001) Hallmarks of History: Piaget, Assouline, Paris
Grumbach, Didier (2008) Histoires de Mode, 2nd edn, Editions du Regard, Paris
Fraser, Antonia (2001) Marie Antoinette: The journey, Weidenfeld & Nicholson, London
Philips, Tim (2005) Knock-Off: The true story of the world’s fastest growing crime wave, Kogan Page, London
Rentschler, Ruth and Hede, Anne-Marie (2007) Museum Marketing: Competing in the global marketplace, Butterworth-Heineman, Oxford
Resnick, Evelyne (2008) Wine Brands, Palgrave Macmillan, London
Ring, Jim (2004) Riviera: The rise and rise of the Côte d’Azur, John Murray, London
Robinson, Jancis (2006) Oxford Companion to Wine, 3rd edn, Oxford University Press, Oxford
Thomas, Dana (2007) Deluxe: How luxury lost its lustre, Penguin Press, New York
Thompson, Don, (2008) The $12 Million Stuffed Shark, Aurum Press, London
Thornton, Sarah (2008) Seven Days in the Art World, Granta Publications, London
White, Edmund (2001) Le Flâneur, Bloomsbury Publishing, London
ONLINE RESOURCES
Academie des Vins Anciens (www.academiedesvinsanciens.org)
Admap (www.admap.com)
Asahi Shimbun (www.asahi.com)
Bloomberg (www.bloomberg.com)
Brandchannel (www.brandchannel.com)
Brand Republic (www.brandrepublic.com)
Business 2.0 (http://money.cnn.com)
Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry (www.fhc.ch)
Fractional Life (www.fractionallife.com)
Haute Horlogerie (www.journal.hautehorlogerie.org)
Hospitality Net (www.hospitalitynet.org)
Luxury Culture (www.luxuryculture.com)
Slate magazine (www.slate.com)
Transnational Institute (www.tni.com)
Unity Marketing (www.unitymarketingonline.com)
Union des Maisons de Champagne (www.maisons-champagne.com)
World Advertising Research Center (www.warc.com)
Index
* * *
accessible luxury, rise of 3
Admap 85
Advertising Age 25–26, 37, 139
advertising agencies
JWT 213
Ogilvy & Mather 141–42, 213
and Sir Martin Sorrell/WPP 213
Adweek 140
Age, The 3
analogue vs digital 224–25
Antwerp/Antwerp World Diamond Centre 33–42, 45 see also Claes, P and diamonds
United Nations criticism of 40–41
architects
Dutrou 94 see also Monte Carlo
Gehry, Frank 110
Hadid, Zaha 109
Herzog & de Meuron 124
Koolhaas, Rem 124
Yabu Pushelberg 130
Arnault, B 9, 160 see also art collectors and champagne
art brands 105–21 see also art collectors; art exhibitions; art dealers; art exhibitions; art fairs; art galleries; artists; auction houses and museums
art collectors 106–11
Arnault, Bernard 108, 109–10, 111
outside advisors to 110
Pinault, François 100, 109–10, 111
Saatchi, Charles 106–08, 111, 113, 119
art dealers 118
de Pury, Simon 108–09
Joplin, Jay 113, 114–15
Luxembourg, Daniela 108
Wenman, Neil 119–20
art exhibitions
Freeze 112–13
Sensation 107
art fairs 105–06
Art Basel 106, 118–19
European Fine Art Foundation Fair (TEFAF) 105–06
Frieze/Frieze 106, 119
La Foire Internationale de l’Art Contemporaine (FIAC) 105–06, 119–20
sponsors of 118
art galleries 107, 109
Haunch of Venison 118
Opera Gallery 115–17, 118
and Viltart, Didier 115–17, 118
White Cube 109, 113, 114–15, 119
‘art of fiction, The’ 54
artisans and authenticity 25–32 see also shoemaking
and Compagnons du Devoir 29–30
in Florence 26–29
artists 111–14
Chapman, Jake and Dinos 107, 119–20
Emin, Tracey 107, 109, 112
Harvey, Marcus 107
Hirst, Damien 106, 111–14, 121
Hyber, Fabrice 106
Koons, Jeff 112
Murakami, Takashi 109
Prince, Richard 109
Quinn, Mark 107
Riley, Bridget 112
Sprouse, Stephen 109
Warhol, Andy 106, 112
and Young British Art movement 121
ASW (ASmallWorld.com) (and) 139–40
luxury brands 140
Mercedes Benz 140
Tudor watch brand 140
auction houses 117–18
Christie’s 109, 117, 118, 120–21
and de Ricqlès, François 120–21
Phillips 108
Phillips de Pury & Company 109
Sotheby’s 114, 117
and Yves St Laurent art collection 120–21
Authentic Luxury Association 222–23
Authenticity: What consumers really want 25
automobiles/automobile manufacturers 61–67, 140
Bentley see Bentley cars
BMW 64
and Paris Motor Show 61–62, 64
Rolls-Royce 63–64
Vickers 64
Volkswagen 64
bags/handbags 18, 19, 27–28, 32, 71, 109 see also Gucci
Bassani, L 78–83 see also yachts
Bene 27
Benaïm, L 16–17
Bentley, W O 62–64
Bentley Boys, the 63
Bentley cars 6–7, 62–65, 78, 101
and Bentley Experience 65
Brooklands coupé 64
Continental GT 64
and McCullough, S 7, 62, 65–67
Mulliner 66
Rolls-Royce takeover of 63–64
Berry, C J 6
bling 4–5
blogs 142–43, 222
Boussac (textiles) 9
Bowles, H 47
brands see art brands and fashion brands
Brulé, T 3
Business Wire 95
Campaign 213
Carpe Diem 89
Castarède, J 5–6, 8
categories of luxury 6
Cerf Mendès-France/C Mendès 15
Cendars, B 54
Challenges 161
champagne (and) 153–68 see also cognac and wine
appellation and government legislation 156–57
Avenue de Champagne 158
the Champagne region 154–55
revising borders of 167–68
Chevalier, Alain 160
Comit�
� Interprofessionel du Vin de Champagne (CIVC) 153, 156–58
Dom Pérignon 158, 159, 161
Domaine Chandon (California) 160
fermentation and blending processes 155
history of champagne houses 158–61
Lorson, Daniel 153–56
LVMH 158
Moët, Jean Rémy 159
Moët & Chandon 158–61, 163
Pasteur, Louis 155
Reims see champagne in Reims
Ruinart 158
de Vogüé, Count Robert-Jean 159–60
champagne in Reims (and) 161–66
Cristal brand 162, 163–64
and rappers 163–64
Janneau, Michael 164
Lawson, Martine 162
Louis Roederer 161–66
sponsorship 165–66
chefs 181–88
Adria, Ferràn 181–82
Blumenthal, Heston 171
Bocuse, Paul 177
Child, Julia 177
Ducasse, Alain 182–88 see also main entry
Ramsey, Gordon 171
White, Marco Pierre 181
Chevalier, M 2, 126
Claes, P 34–35, 37, 38, 40–41
clothing manufacturers
C Mendès 15 see also Grumbach, D
Courrèges 15
Diesel 15
Staff International 15
cognac
Hennessy & Co 160
Moët-Hennessy 160
Compagnons du Devoir 29–30
Corthay, Pierre 29–32 see also shoemaking
cosmetic brands
Lancôme 98
L’Oreal 80, 110
Côte d’Azur/Riviera 85–90 see also property
counterfeit goods 135–36
couture, future of 19–23
crafted/handmade goods 222–23
customization 31
Daily Telegraph, The 20
De Beers (and) 36–37
Diamond Jewellers Ltd (retail network) 37
LVMH 37 see also main entry
de Brunhoff, M 16
definition(s) of l
luxury 5
luxury brand 2
Deluxe: How luxury lost its lustre 3, 27
deluxe nomads 91–104
hotel world 97–102
luxury travel services 102–04
Monte Carlo – the brand 92–97
Diamond High Council/Hoge Raad voor Diamant 38
diamonds 33–46 see also Antwerp/Antwerp World Diamond Centre; De Beers and jewellery
4 Cs of 38
and Belgian Polished Diamond Association 36
conflict 40–41
countries producing 36
and design/designers 42–
and Fowler Report 40–41
grading of 39
history of 34–36
and Kimberley Process Certification Scheme 41
Lesotho Promise 37–38
smuggling of 40–41
trading in 40
digital luxury (and) 135–43
Louis Vuitton 140–43
luxury brands and the web 137–40
dream weavers see couture, future of; ready to wear/prêt-à-porter and Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche/YSL
Ducasse, Alain 182–88, 228
background/culinary history of 182–84
classical tradition of 187
and la différence 185–86
and service 187–88
Economist, The 164
Intelligent Life 164
education see universities as brands
Fabergé 150–52
Imperial eggs 150
and Samuel Rubin Foundation (New York) 151
and Unilever 151–52
Far Eastern Economic Review 192
fashion brands
Alexander McQueen 10
Balenciaga 10, 18
Berluti 30
Bottega Veneta 10, 32, 109
Boucheron 10
Chanel 17, 18, 109
Christian Dior 9, 21–22, 125, 128
Costume National 15
Fendi 27
Givenchy 18
Gucci 109, 123, 125
and Polet, Robert 123
Hermés 4, 32
John Lobb (Paris) 30, 101
Lanvin 18
Longchamp 109
Louis Vuitton/LVMH 125 see also Louis Vuitton and LVMH
Miu Miu 125
Nina Ricci 21
Prada 18, 27, 124, 225
Richemont 10
Stella McCartney 10
Ungaro 21
Valentino 125
fashion/perfume designers
Armani, Giorgio 20
Balenciaga 15
Batista, Felipe Oliviera 20
Bergé, Pierre 12, 16–18
Bertin, R 13
Boucheron, Frédéric 9, 42
Cardin, Pierre 17
Cartier, L-F 2, 9, 140, 143
Carven 14
Chanel 17, 142–43
Courrèges, André 14, 15
de Givenchy, Hubert 12, 15
Dessés, Jean
Dior, Christian 6, 18, 160
Dixon, Tom (Habitat) 49
Fath, Jacques 14
Font, Joseph 20
Ford, Tom 18, 124, 205
Galliano, John 12, 21, 22
Gaultier, Jean-Paul 12, 20
Gaumont-Lanvin, J 14
Gucci, Aldo 124
Hebey, Isabelle 16
Hermès, T 9
Jacobs, Marc 205
Karan, Donna 205
Kokosalaki, Sophia 15
Lacroix, Christian 12
Lagerfeld, Karl 4, 5, 15, 21
Lanvin, Jeanne 14, 15
Laroche, Guy 15
Mabille, Alexis 20, 21–22
Meisel, Steven 205
Missoni 15
Mugler, Thierry 20
Newson, Marc 49
Paquin 14
Patou, Jean 15
Piguet, Robert 14
Pilati, Stefano 18–19
Pill, Cathy 20
Poiret 2, 13
Takada, Kenzo 12
Ungaro, Emanuel 15
Valentino (Valentino Garavani) 12, 15, 20, 100
Verbrugghe, F 4
Vionnet, Madeleine 13, 14
Vuitton, Louis 2, 9
Westwood, Vivienne 15
Worth, Charles F 2, 12–13
Financial Times 3, 97, 116
How To Spend It 4
flying see fractional ownership and jet planes
Food & Drink Weekly 172
Forbes 97
Fortune 97
Fractional Life/www.fractionallife.com 71
fractional ownership (and) 69–75 see also jet planes
Netjets 70, 72, 118, 119
Pure Latitude/M Gray 71
Fraser, A 8–9
furniture designers
Arad, Ron 101
Kagan, Vladimir 101
Gatti, P 27
Gaudoin, T 32
Gilmore, J H 25–26
Giorgio Armani Privé 20
Gladwell, M 203
global luxury market, collapse of 4
Grumbach, D 13, 14, 15, 17, 20–21
Gucci 10, 18, 27–28, 32
and ‘sweatshop scandal’ 28
Guardian, The 139
guilt-free luxury 227–28
Haute Couture, Chambre Syndicale de la 20, 21
haute couture/haute couture shows 20–23
Haute Horlogerie 57
Histoire du Luxe en France 5
Histoires de Mode 13
Hofmann, P 26–27
hotels 91–92, 94–95, 97–102 see also Monte Carlo
George V (Paris) 98, 135
Gulf 99–100
Hotel de Paris 92, 95, 97–98, 104
and Allegri, Luca 97–98
and Ducasse, Alain 98
Mark Hotel (New York) 100–01
and Sherwin, James 101
and reservati
on services/alliances 104
Ritz-Carlton group 99
Idea of Luxury, The 6
Independent, The 71, 192, 197
interior designers
Grange, Jacques 100–01
Passebon, Pierre 101
International Herald Tribune 4, 19, 36, 54, 70–71, 112, 124, 141, 214
Italy 26–29 see also shoemaking
and leatherworking/Scuola de Cuoio 27
and Prato chamber of commerce 28
jet planes (and) 69–75
Booth, M 73
Buffett, W 73
Dranitzke, R 72–75
European Aviation Safety Agency (EASA) 74
fractional ownership of 70–75
Gulfstream 69–70
and Baugniet, R 70
Netlets/Netlets Europe 70, 72–75
Santulli, R 72
jewellery 33–50 see also diamonds
jewellery brands
Cartier 42, 118, 119
Chanel 44
Chaumet 42
Dior 44
Fennell, Theo 135
JEL (Jewellery Ethical Luxury) 221
Lorenz 43
Louis Vuitton 37, 43, 44
MHT 50
jewellery designers 42–50
Bäumer, Lorenz 42–46
Butler, Nicky 47
and LORENZ costume jewellery 43
Taillac (de), Marie Hélène 46–50
and Gem Palace, Jaipur 48
Kimberley Process, The 41
Knock-Off: The true story of the world’s fastest growing crime wave 135
knowledge economy see museums and universities as brands
Lattigue’s Riviera(Jean Lartigue) 87
Le Comptoir de l’Homme 128–29
Le Figaro 171
Le Flâneur 7
leatherworking 26–29 see also shoemaking
Léopold-Metzger, P 56–58 see also watchmakers/watches
London (and)
Café Royal 124
Ferrari store 124
Marylebone High Street and Howard de Walden Estate 125
Regent Street and Crown Estates 124–25
Westfield 125
Louis Vuitton 1, 2, 5, 109, 124, 140–43, 213 see also fashion designers and LVMH
client–vendor relationship at 126–27
and digital band-building/Ogilvy & Mather 141–42
marketing strategy of 125–26
Private Client Relations department 125–26
and Racamier, Henry 160
Luxury Brand Management 2, 126
LVMH (and) 1, 4, 9–10, 18, 37, 108, 110
champagne houses 158–60
De Beers 37
Phillips auction house 108
Madame Figaro 106
Mazzalovo, G2, 126
Menkes, S 22–23
Men’s Vogue 81