Curry

by Lizzie Collingham

  73 Beveridge (ed.), The Tuzuki-i-Jahangiri, I, pp. 307–10.

  74 Manucci, Storia do Mogor, II, p. 5.

  75 Eraly, The Last Spring, pp. 303, 307.

  76 Panjabi, 50 Great Curries, p. 88.

  77 Manrique, Travels, II, pp. 186–8. Reals were Spanish pieces of eight.

  78 Eraly, The Last Spring, p. 312.

  79 Keay, The Honourable Company, pp. 115–16.

  80 Manucci, Storia do Mogor, II, pp. 5–6.

  81 Sen (ed.), Indian Travels of Thevenot and Careri, p. 236; Eraly, The Last Spring, p. 393; Srivastava, Social Life, p. 4.

  3 VINDALOO

  1 Dalby, Dangerous Tastes, p. 89.

  2 Tavernier, Travels, II, p. 11.

  3 Pharmacopoeia, pp. 172, 177.

  4 Dalby, Dangerous Tastes, p. 91.

  5 Peterson, ‘The Arab influence’, pp. 317, 319–20; Scully, The Art of Cookery, p. 84; Sass, ‘The preference’, pp. 254–7; Prasad, Early English Travellers, p. xxxii; Laurioux, ‘Spices in the medieval diet’, pp. 46–7, 51, 59.

  6 Scully, The Art of Cookery, p. 30; Laurioux, ‘Spices in the medieval diet’, pp. 56–9.

  7 Cohen, The Four Voyages, pp. 11–17, 121; Dalby, Dangerous Tastes, pp. 148, 150.

  8 Dalby, Dangerous Tastes, p. 148.

  9 Laudan and Pilcher, ‘Chilies, chocolate and race’, p. 65.

  10 Andrews, ‘The peripatetic chilli’, p. 92.

  11 Subrahmanyam, The Career and Legend, pp. 129–38.

  12 Silverberg, The Longest Voyage, pp. 58–9.

  13 Subrahmanyam, The Portuguese Empire, p. 63.

  14 Pearson, The Portuguese, pp. 30–2.

  15 Burton, The Raj at Table, p. 6.

  16 Hyman and Hyman, ‘Long pepper’, pp. 50–2.

  17 Watt, A Dictionary, II, p. 135.

  18 Achaya, Indian Food, p. 227; Watt, A Dictionary, II, p. 137.

  19 Jaffrey, A Taste of India, p. 220.

  20 Andrews, ‘The peripatetic chilli’, pp. 92–3.

  21 Linschoten, The Voyage, I, pp. 207-8.

  22 Sen (ed.), Indian Travels of Thevenot and Careri, p. 162.

  23 Fryer, A New Account, II, pp. 27–8; Linschoten, The Voyage, I, pp. 205, 212–13.

  24 Linschoten, The Voyage, I, pp. 67–8.

  25 Ibid., pp. 222, 228–30; Subrahmanyam, The Portuguese Empire, p. 225.

  26 Fryer, A New Account, I, p. 192.

  27 Linschoten, The Voyage, I, p. 193.

  28 Ibid., pp. 219–22. For the corruption of Portuguese officers of all ranks, see Xavier, Goa, pp. 214–15.

  29 Fryer, A New Account, II, p. 16.

  30 Pearson, ‘The people and politics’, p. 10; Subrahmanyam, The Portuguese Empire, p. 228.

  31 Boxer, Race Relations, pp. 60–1.

  32 Linschoten, The Voyage, I, pp. 207–8, 212.

  33 Fryer, A New Account, II, pp. 27–8,

  34 Laudan and Pilcher, ‘Chilies, chocolate and race’, p. 65.

  35 Fitch, in Foster (ed.), Early Travels, p. 46.

  36 M. Albertina Saldanha, ‘Goan cuisine. How good is it?’, Goa Today, XXIII, 12 (July 1989), p. 22; Mundy, The Travels, p. 59.

  37 Coelho and Sen, ‘Cooking the Goan way’, p. 150.

  38 This was Richard Burton, later to become famous as the first white man to enter Mecca, and as the translator of the Arabian Nights into English. Burton, Goa, p. 104.

  39 Laudan and Pilcher, ‘Chilies, chocolate and race’, p. 66.

  40 Scully, The Art of Cookery, p. 136.

  41 Larsen, Faces, p. 118.

  42 Mandelslo, The Voyages and Travels, p. 79.

  43 Sen, ‘The Portuguese influence’, p. 290.

  44 Bernier, Travels, II, p. 182.

  45 Burton, Goa, p. 98.

  46 M. Albertina Saldanha, ‘Goan cuisine. How good is it?’, Goa Today, XXIII, 12 (July 1989), p. 22.

  47 Coelho and Sen, ‘Cooking the Goan way’, p. 153; Cabral, ‘Of Goa and gourmets’, The Taj Magazine, 26, 1 (1997); Laudan, The Food of Paradise, pp. 88–9.

  48 Tavernier, Travels, 1, p. 150; The Saraswat Brahmans who did not convert to Christianity developed a vegetarian Goan cuisine.

  49 Robinson, ‘The construction of Goan interculturality’, pp. 290–1.

  50 Manucci, Storia do Mogor, pp. 180–1.

  51 Hamilton, A New Account, p. 143.

  52 Richards, Goa, p. 25; Priolkar, The Goa Inquisition, pp. 116–17.

  53 Subrahmanyam, The Portuguese Empire, p. 231.

  54 Cited by Priolkar, The Goa Inquisition, p. 55.

  55 Souza, Goa to Me, p. 87; Gracias, ‘The impact’, p. 48; Lopes, ‘Conversion’, pp. 69, 72.

  56 Scammell, ‘The pillars of empire’, pp. 477–87; Subrahmanyam, The Portuguese Empire, p. 231.

  57 Priolkar, The Goa Inquisition, p. 104; Axelrod and Fuerch, ‘Flight of the deities’, pp. 412–13.

  58 Axelrod and Fuerch, ‘Flight of the deities’, pp. 393–4.

  59 Ibid., p. 387.

  60 Borges, ‘A lasting cultural legacy’, p. 55.

  61 Robinson, ‘The construction of Goan interculturality’, p. 309.

  62 Burton, Goa, pp. 104–5; Axelrod and Fuerch, ‘Flight of the deities’, p. 410.

  63 Robinson, ‘The construction of Goan interculturality’, p. 310.

  64 Richards, Goa, pp. 4–5, 71.

  65 Sen, ‘The Portuguese influence’, p. 293.

  66 Scully, The Art of Cookery, p. 112.

  67 Dawe, The Wife’s Help, p. 62.

  68 Coelho and Sen, ‘Cooking the Goan way’, p. 151; M. Albertina Saldanha, ‘Goan cuisine. How good is it?’, Goa Today, XXIII, 12 (July 1989), p. 13.

  69 Cited by Collins, The Pineapple, pp. 9–17.

  70 Beveridge (ed.), The Tuzuki-I-Jahangiri, I, pp. 215, 350.

  71 Nichter, ‘Modes of food classification’, pp. 195–6.

  72 Maciel, Goan Cookery Book, p. 9.

  73 Eraly, The Last Spring, pp. 434, 495.

  74 Gordon, Marathas, p. 35.

  75 Fryer, A New Account, II, pp. 67–8; Ikram, Muslim Civilisation, pp. 196–7, 206.

  76 C. Y. Gopinath, ‘So what’s for dinner then?’, The Taj Magazine, 18, 3 (1990).

  77 Richards, Goa, pp. 33–4.

  78 Rao, Eighteenth Century Deccan, pp. 227–8.

  4 KORMA

  1 Ovington, A Voyage, pp. 394–8.

  2 Farrington, Trading Places, pp. 16–20, 39; Richards, The Mughal Empire, pp. 196–9.

  3 Foster (ed.), Early Travels, pp. 60–70.

  4 Foster (ed.), The Embassy of Sir Thomas Roe, p. xxiv; Terry, A Voyage to East-India, pp. 211, 218.

  5 Farrington, Trading Places, p. 69.

  6 Bayly (ed.), The Raj, p. 68.

  7 Ovington, A Voyage, p. 141; Fryer, A New Account, I, p. 179; Burnell, Bombay, pp. 20–1.

  8 Wilson (ed.), The Early Annals, p. 208.

  9 Richards, The Mughal Empire, p. 201; Keay, The Honourable, pp. 134–5.

  10 Mandelslo, The Voyages and Travels, p. 13; Anderson, The English, p. 48; Ovington, A Voyage, pp. 237–8.

  11 Oxford English Dictionary.

  12 Ramaswami (ed.), The Chief Secretary, p. 79.

  13 Terry, A Voyage, p. 107.

  14 Manucci, Storia do Mogor, I, pp. 62–3; Major (ed.), India in the Fifteenth Century, p. 32.

  15 Ovington, A Voyage, p. 397.

  16 Fryer, A New Account, I, p. 177.

  17 Terry, A Voyage, p. 94.

  18 Laudan, ‘The birth of the modern diet’, p. 62.

  19 Scully, The Art of Cookery, p. 207.

  20 Appadurai, ‘How to make a national cuisine’, p. 13.

  21 Stein, Peasant State and Society, pp. 144–5.

  22 Breckenridge, ‘Food politics and pilgrimage’, p. 30.

  23 Hultzsch, South Indian Inscriptions, p. 189.

  24 Breckenridge, ‘Food politics and pilgrimage’, pp. 32, 37–40; Jaffrey, A Taste of India, pp. 197–8.

  25 Richards, The Mughal Empire, p. 190.

 
26 Appadurai, Worship and Conflict, p. 37.

  27 Hamilton, A New Account, p. 211.

  28 Achaya, Indian Food, p. 68.

  29 Jaffrey, A Taste of India, p. 220.

  30 Aziz, ‘Glimpses’, pp. 170–1; Jaffrey, A Taste of India, pp. 170–1.

  31 Sharar, Lucknow, p. 157.

  32 Hasan, Palace Culture, pp. 4–5.

  33 Fisher, A Clash of Cultures, pp. 71–6.

  34 Sharar, Lucknow, pp. 155–6.

  35 ‘Oude Accounts etc. 1777–83’, Warren Hastings Papers, p. 26.

  36 Hasan, Palace Culture, pp. 4–5.

  37 Panjabi, 50 Great Curries, p. 25.

  38 Tasleem.Lucknow.com

  39 Sharar, Lucknow, pp. 157–8.

  40 Cited by Allen (ed.), Food, p. 239.

  41 Sharar, Lucknow, pp. 158–62.

  42 Praveen Talha, ‘Nemat-e-Dastarkhwan. Bounty of the table’, The Taj Magazine, 23, 1 (1994).

  43 Llewellyn-Jones, Engaging Scoundrels, p. 12.

  44 Allami, Ain-i-Akbari, I, pp. 62–3.

  45 Llewellyn-Jones, Engaging Scoundrels, p. 44.

  46 Ali, Observations on the Mussulmauns of India, I, p. 38.

  47 Sharar, Lucknow, p. 161; Singh, Mrs Balbir Singh’s Indian Cookery, p. 132.

  48 Ali, Observations on the Mussulmauns of India : I, pp. 324–5; II, p. 67

  5 MADRAS CURRY

  1 Parks, Wanderings, I, pp. 25, 46–7; Williamson, The East-India Vade-Mecum: I, pp. 213–14, 238–9; II, p. 180; Campbell, Excursions, I, p. 68; Graham, Journal of a Residence, p. 30.

  2 [Hobbes], Reminiscences, p. 14.

  3 Richard Burton, cited by Brodie, The Devil Drives, p. 51.

  4 Young, Early Victorian England, pp. 104–8.

  5 Macnabb Collection, / 4, f. 77; Fenton, The Journal, p. 53.

  6 Cordiner, A Voyage to India, p. 110; Graham, Journal of a Residence, p. 30.

  7 Roberts, Scenes and Characteristics, I, p. 76.

  8 Spencer, ‘The British Isles’, pp. 1222–3; Fine et al., Consumption in the Age of Affluence, p. 203.

  9 Roberts, Scenes and Characteristics, I, p. 72; Elizabeth Gwillim, Gwillim Papers/1, f. 48.

  10 F. J. Shore, Futtyghur, 23 July 1820, Frederick John Shore Collection/5–8.

  11 Elizabeth Gwillim, Gwillim Papers/1, ff. 37–8.

  12 Fane, Five Years, I, p. 29.

  13 Valle, The Travels, II, p. 328.

  14 Some food writers suggest that the word comes from kahree, or karhi, the name for a northern Indian dish made with chickpea flour and yogurt. But none of the seventeenth-century writers describe anything that sounds like this dish when they use the words caril, carree or curry. They clearly use them to refer to Indian stews or ragouts in general.

  15 Edmunds, Curries, p. 10.

  16 Tandon, Punjabi Century, p. 88.

  17 Nichter, ‘Modes of food classification’, p. 200.

  18 Thirty-Five Years’ Resident, The Indian Cookery Book, p. 22.

  19 McCosh, Medical Advice, p. 83.

  20 Dawe, The Wife’s Help, p. 59.

  21 In 1923, C. Lewis recommended for tiffin ‘a curry with as many concomitants as are available, such as Bombay duck, Popadums, chutney, minced cocoanut, etc. Anyone who has lived on the Madras side or in Ceylon will know how the additions improve a curry. At the Galle Face in Colombo we have counted as many as 16 different side dishes served with it’ (Lewis, Culinary Notes, p. 59).

  22 Williamson, The East-India Vade-Mecum, II, p. 128.

  23 [Palmer], Indian Cookery, p. 184.

  24 Burton, Goa, p. 296.

  25 Campbell, Excursions, I, p. 68.

  26 Burton, The Raj at Table, p. 105.

  27 Jaffrey, A Taste of India, p. 87; Panjabi, 50 Great Curries, pp. 98–9; Behram Contractor, ‘Eating-out with a difference’, The Taj Magazine, 11, 2 (1982).

  28 Roberts, Scenes and Characteristics, I, p. 153.

  29 Burton, Goa, p. 251.

  30 Mandelslo, The Voyages and Travels, pp. 19–20.

  31 Eden, Up the Country, p. xiv.

  32 Flora Holman, Holman Paper, p. 13.

  33 Emily Sandys, 26 August 1854, Stuart Papers.

  34 Tayler, Thirty-Eight Years, pp. 394–5.

  35 Burton, The Raj at Table, pp. 113–14.

  36 Kaye (ed.), The Golden Calm, p. 120.

  37 A Thirty-Five Years’ Resident, The Indian Cookery Book, p. 20.

  38 Roberts, Scenes and Characteristics, I, p. 51.

  39 Burton, The Raj at Table, pp. 126–9.

  40 Cited by ibid., p. 121.

  6 CURRY POWDER

  1 Fisher, The First Indian Author, pp. 251–66.

  2 Hunter, The Thackerays, pp. 85–99.

  3 Fisher, The First Indian Author, p. 260; Holzman, The Nabobs, p. 90.

  4 Salter, The Asiatic, pp. 28–31.

  5 Visram, Ayahs, p. 15; Salter, The East, p. 38; Salter, The Asiatic, pp. 25, 69–70, 116.

  6 24 October 1813, Spilsbury Collection / 1.

  7 Shade, A Narrative, p. 27.

  8 Geddes, The Laird’s Kitchen, pp. 71–9, 100.

  9 Cited by Grove, Curry, Spice & All Things Nice.

  10 ‘Indian Cookery’, pp. iii–iv.

  11 Laudan, ‘Birth of the modern diet’, pp. 62–7; Freeman, Mutton and Oysters, pp. 69–71; Goody, Food and Love, pp. 130–1.

  12 Spencer, The Heretic’s Feast, p. 280; Twigg, ‘Vegetarianism’, p. 24.

  13 C. P. Moritz cited by Palmer, Moveable Feasts, pp. 12–13; Laurioux, ‘Spices in the medieval diet’, pp. 48, 66; Peterson, ‘The Arab influence’, p. 333.

  14 Cited by Davis, Fairs, p. 199.

  15 White, Indian Cookery, p. 3.

  16 Edmunds, Curries, p. 9; White, Indian Cookery, p. 6.

  17 Punch, IX (1845).

  18 Cited by Chaudhuri, ‘Shawls’, p. 246.

  19 Geddes, The Laird’s Kitchen, p. 100.

  20 Freeman, Mutton and Oysters, p. 125.

  21 See Dawe, The Wife’s Help, p. 94; [Palmer], Indian Cookery, p. 188.

  22 Cited by Narayan, ‘Eating cultures’, p. 82.

  23 Freeman, Mutton and Oysters, p. 137; Cox (ed.), Mr and Mrs Charles Dickens, pp. 19, 39.

  24 Chaudhuri, ‘Shawls’, p. 239.

  25 Haldar, The English Diary, p. 85.

  26 Terry, Indian Cookery, pp. 16–17, 23–4.

  27 Panjabi, 50 Great Curries, p. 32.

  28 Terry, Indian Cookery, pp. 16–17.

  29 Glasse, The Art of Cookery (1748 edn), p. 101.

  30 Francatelli, The Modern Cook, pp. 12–13, 20, 300; Ketab, Indian Dishes for English Tables; Chaudhuri, ‘Shawls’, p. 244.

  31 Chaudhuri, ‘Shawls’, p. 244.

  32 Ibid., p. 241.

  33 Terry, Indian Cookery, endpieces; Santiagoe, The Curry Cook’s Assistant, p. xii (kindly lent to me by Jennifer Donkin).

  34 du Maurier, Rebecca, p. 309.

  35 White, Indian Cookery, p. 9.

  36 Jaffrey, A Taste of India, pp. 82, 130.

  37 Panjabi, 50 Great Curries, pp. 24, 32.

  38 Katona-Apte and Apte, ‘The role of food’, p. 347.

  39 Jaffrey, An Invitation, p. 18.

  40 Petit, The Home Book, p. 24; Good Housekeeping’s Casseroles and Curries, pp. 19–23.

  41 Edmunds, Curries, p. 52.

  42 Allen (ed.), Food, p. 29.

  43 Acton, Modern Cookery, pp. 343–4.

  44 Santiagoe, The Curry Cook’s Assistant, p. ix.

  45 Terry, Indian Cookery, pp. 5–7; Beeton, Mrs Beeton’s Book, p. 90; Acton, Modern Cookery, pp. 42–3.

  46 Kingston, ‘The taste of India’, p. 45.

  47 Valle, The Travels, II, p. 383.

  48 Fryer, A New Account, I, p. 297.

  49 David, Spices, p. 10.

  50 Glasse, The Art of Cookery (1983 edn), p. 168.

  51 Glasse, The Art of Cookery, (1748 edn), p. 240.

  52 Smith, The Tomato, pp. 18–20.

  53 Cited by Burton, The Raj at Table, p. 121; Wright,
The Road from Aston Cross, p. 31.

  54 David, Spices, p. 12.

  55 MacKenzie, Propaganda, p. 97.

  56 Erickson, Her Little Majesty, pp. 239–47; Glasheen, The Secret People, p. 158.

  57 Hartley, Eighty-Eight Not Out, p. 71.

  58 Ibid., pp. 75–8.

  59 Gregory, ‘Staging British India’, pp. 152–64.

  60 Santiagoe, The Curry Cook’s Assistant, p. 68.

  61 Tollinton Papers.

  62 The Times British Empire Exhibition Special Section, No. 1, 23 April 1924, pp. 52–4.

  63 [Palmer], Indian Cookery, pp. 17–18.

  7 COLD MEAT CUTLETS

  1 John William Laing, 28 October 1873, Vol. I, Laing Diaries.

  2 ‘Culinary Jottings for Madras by Wyvern. 1878’, The Calcutta Review, 68 (1879), p. xiv.

  3 Stocqueler, The Hand-book, pp. 202–3.

  4 Ibid., p. 207.

  5 ‘Culinary Jottings for Madras by Wyvern. 1878’, The Calcutta Review, 68 (1879), p. xiii.

  6 Kenny-Herbert, Wyvern’s Indian Cookery Book; Franklin, The Wife’s Cookery Book.

  7 Masters, Bugles, p. 157; Annie Winifred Brown.

  8 The army officer’s son in conversation with the author.

  9 Indian Cookery ‘Local’, pp. 41–2.

  10 The Englishwoman in India, p. 45; Cunningham Papers, p. 515.

  11 Lady Minto’s Recipe Book, p. 85.

  12 What to Tell the Cook; A Friend in Need, published by the Ladies’ Committee F.I.N.S. Women’s Workshop, and kindly lent to me by Maureen Nunn, also printed its recipes in English and Tamil and was much used by the wife of a coffee planter living in the Coorg Hills of southern India in the 1930s.

  13 Dench Papers, p. 24.

  14 Dutton, Life in India, p. 57.

  15 Williamson, The East-India Vade-Mecum, I, p. 238.

  16 Hall Papers.

  17 Graham, Journal of a Residence, p. 30; W. W. Hooper, ‘Kitchen servants c.1880’, Photo 447/3(56).

  18 Lyall Collection, / 2, p. 159; 21 March 1926, Maxwell Papers, Box XVII.

  19 Bayley Papers, p. 6.

  20 Abraham Caldecott, Letter 14, September 1783, Caldecott Collection.

  21 Tavernier, Travels, I, 109.

  22 Parks, Wanderings, I p. 32.

  23 Deane, A Tour, pp. 15–16, 203.

  24 William Dalrymple kindly supplied the information on Kirkpatrick and potatoes; Watt, A Dictionary, VI, III, p. 272; Sen, ‘The Portuguese influence’, p. 296. See also: Dalrymple, White Mughals, p. 330; Salaman, The History and Social Influence, p. 445; Achaya, Indian Food, p. 226.