Russia in 1839 -Empire of the Czar: A Journey Through Eternal Russia
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country in order to know it. AVithout the aid of
others, it is not possible to obtain an idea of any thino·,
and often this aid tyrannises over its object, and imbues
him with ideas only that are fallacious.*
* This is done designedly.
262THE LADIES OF THE COURT.
CHAP. XIII.
THE LADIES OF THE COURT. THE FINNS. ТПЕ OPERA. — THE
EMPEROR THERE. — IMPOSING PERSON OF THIS PRINCEHIS
ACCESSION TO THE THRONE. — COURAGE OF THE EMPRESS.
THE EMPEROR'S RECITAL OF THIS SCENE TO THE AUTHOR.
ANOTHER DESCRIPTION OF THE EMPEROR.CONTINUATION OF
HIS CONVERSATION. HIS POLITICAL OPINIONS. SINCERITY OF
HIS LANGUAGE.FETE AT THE DUCHESS OF OLDENBURG`S. —
BAL CHAMPÊTRE.FLOWERS IN RUSSIA. THE FRIEND OF THE
EMPRESS. SEVERAL CONVERSATIONS WITH THE EMPEROR.
HIS NOBLE SENTIMENTS. — CONFIDENCE WITH "WHICH HE IN
SPIRES THOSE WHO APPROACH HIMARISTOCRACY THE ONLY
RAMPART OF LIBERTY. PARALLEL BETWEEN AUTOCRACIES AND
DEMOCRACIES.THE ARTS IN PETERSBURG.ALL TRUE TALENT
IS NATIONAL.
Seveeal of the ladies of this court, but their number is not great, have a reputation for beauty which is deserved ; others have usurped this reputation by means of coquetries, contrivances, and affectations — all copied from the English; for the Russians in high life pass their time in searching for foreign models of fashion. They are deceived sometimes in their choice, when their mistake produces a singular kind of elegance — an elegance without taste. A Russian left to himself would spend his life in dreams of unsatisfied vauity: he would view himself as a barbarian. Nothing more injures the natural disposition, and consequently the mental powers, of a people, than this continual dwelling upon the social superiority of other nations. To feel humbled by
THE FIXXS.
263
the very sense of one's own assumption is an inconsistency in the actings of self-love which is not un-frequently to be seen in Russia, where the character of the parvenu may be studied under all its grades and phases.
As a general rule applicable to the different classes of the nation, beauty is less common among the women than the men; though among the latter also may be found great numbers whose faces are flat and void of all expression. The Finns have high cheek bones, small, dull, sunken eyes, and visages so flattened that it might be fancied they had all, at their birth, fallen on their noses. Their month is also deformed, and their whole appearance bears the impress of the slave. This portrait does not apply to the Slavonians.
I have met many people marked with the smallpox, a sight rarely now seen in other parts of Europe, and which betrays the negligence of the Russian administration on an important point.
In Petersburg the different races are so mingled, that it is impossible to form a correct idea of the real population of Russia. Germans, Swedes, Livonians, Finns (who are a species of Laplanders), Calmucs and other Tartar races, have so mixed their blood with that of the Slavonians, that the primitive beauty of the latter has, in the capital, gradually degenerated ; which leads me often to think of the observation of the emperor, "Petersburg is Russian, but it is not Russia."
I have been witnessing at the opera what is called a gala representation. The building was magni-ficiently lighted: it is large, and well proportioned.
264
THE OPERA.
Galleries and projecting boxes are unknown here: there is at Petersburg no citizen class for whom to provide seats. The architect, therefore, unfettered in his plan, can construct theatres of a simple and regular design, like those of Italy, where the women who are not of the highest ranks arc seated in the pit.
By special favour I obtained a chair in the first row of the pit. On gala days these chairs are reserved for the greatest nobles, and the high court functionaries, and none are admitted to them except in the uniform or costume of their rank or office.
My right-hand neighbour, seeing from my dress that I was a stranger, addressed me in French with that hospitable politeness, which in Petersburg is a characteristic of the higher, and, to a certain extent, of all classes; for here everyone is polite—the great, through the vanity of showing their good breeding, the little, through sentiments of fear.
After a few common-place observations, I asked my obliging neighbour the name of the piece that was to be performed. " It is a translation from the French," he answered : " The Devil on two Sticks." I puzzled my head to no purpose to make out what drama could have been translated under this title; at length it turned out that the translation was a pantomime founded on our ballet of the same name.
I did not much admire it, and directed my attention chiefly to the audience. At length, the court arrived. The imperial box is an elegant saloon, which occupies the back part of the theatre, and which is even yet more brilliantly illuminated.
The entrance of the emperor was imposing. As he advanced to the front of his box, accompanied by
THE EMPEROR AT THE OPERA.265
the empress, and followed by their family and the attendant courtiers, the public rose simultaneously. The emperor was dressed in a singularly splendid red uniform. That of the Cossacks looks well only on very young men : the one which the emperor wore better suited his age, and greatly set off the nobleness of his features and his stature. Before seating himself, he saluted the assembly with the peculiarly polite dignity by which he is characterised. The empress did the same, and, what appeared to me a want of respect towards the public, their suite followed their example. The whole theatre rendered to the sovereigns bow for bow, and, furthermore, overwhelmed them with plaudits and hurras. These demonstrations had an official character which greatly diminished their value. Wonderful that an emperor should be applauded by a pit-ful of courtiers! In Russia, real flattery would be the appearance of independence. The Russians have not found out this indirect mode of pleasing; and, in truth, its use might sometimes become perilous, notwithstanding the feeling of ennui which the servility of his subjects must often produce in the prince.
The compulsory manifestations of submission with which he is every where received is the reason why the present emperor has only twice in his life had the satisfaction of testing his personal power upon the assembled multitude — and this was durin
Viewed from the point where I sat, the emperor appeared truly worthy of commanding men, so noble was his face, and so majestic his figure. My mind
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266COURAGE OF THE
involuntarily recurred to the period when he mounted the throne, and the contemplation of that bright page of history led my thoughts away from the scene that was enacting before me.
What I am now about to narrate was detailed to me by the emperor himself, only a few days ago. The reason that it was not stated in the last chapter is because the papers* containing such details could not be confided either to the Russian post or to any traveller.
The day on which Nicholas ascended the throne was that in which rebellion broke out among the guards. At the first intimation of the revolt of the troops, the emperor and empress proceeded alone to their chapel, and falling on their knees on the steps of the altar, bound each other by mutual oath before God, to die as sovereigns, if they should be unable to triumph over the insurrection.
The emperor might well view the evil as serious, for he had been informed that the archbishop had already vainly endeavoured to appease the soldiers. In Russia, when religious power loses its influence, disorder is indeed formidable.
After solemnly making the sign of the cross, the emperor proceeded to confront the rebels, and to overmaster them by his presence, and by the calm energy of his countenance. He stated this to me in terms more modest than those which I now use, and of which, unfortunately, I have not preserved the recollection, for at fìx·st I was rather
taken by surprise, owing to the unexpected turn of the conversation. Of what passed after recovering from this surprise my memory is more tenacious.
* Despatched in the form of a letter to Paris. — Trans.
EMPEROR AND EMRRESS.267
" Sire, your majesty drew yom` strength from the right source."
" I did not know what I was about to do or say — I was inspired."
" To receive sueh inspirations, it is necessary to merit them."
" I did nothing extraordinary ; I said to the soldiers, ' Return to your ranks !' and at the moment of passing the regiment in review, I eried, ' On your knees!' They all obeyed. What gave me power was, that the instant before I had resigned myself to meet death. I am grateful for having succeeded ; but I am not proud of it, for it was by no merit of my own."
Such were the noble expressions whieh the emperor made use of in relating to me this contemporary tragedy.
From the above relation an idea may be formed of the interesting nature of the subjects on which he converses with the travellers whom he honours with his
Eye-witnesses have informed me that his form seemed to dilate and grow more lofty and commanding at caeh step that he made in advancing towards the mutineers. Taeiturn, melancholy, and absorbed in trifles as he had appeared during his youth, he became a hero the moment he was a monarch. The contrary is usually the ease—and princes promise more than they perform.
This prince is, on the throne, as perfectly in Iris
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268DESCRIPTION OF ТПЕ
proper sphere as a great actor would be on the boards. His attitude before the rebel-guard was so imposing, that while he harangued the troops one of the conspirators, it is said, advanced four times towards him with the intention of killing him, and four times his courage failed, like that of the Cumbrian's before Ma·rius.
An absurd falsehood was the instrument that the conspirators had employed to incite the army to this outbreak. They had spread a report that Nicholas had usurped the crown of his brother Constantine, who was, they said, on his way to Petersburg, to defend his rights by force of arms. The means through which they had induced the rebels to cry under the palace windows in favour of the Constitution, was by persuading them that this word Constitution was the name of the wife of Constantine. It was therefore an idea, of duty whieh actuated the soldiers, who believed the emperor an usurper, and who could only be led into rebellion by a fraud. The fact is, that Constantine had refused the crown through weakness: he dreaded being poisoned. God knows, and there are perhaps some men who know also, if his abdication saved him from the peril whieh he thus expected to avoid.
It was then in support of legitimacy that the deceived soldiers revolted against their legitimate sovereign. People remarked that, during the whole time the emperor remained among the troops, he did not once put his horse in rapid motion, but though so calm, he was very pale. He was putting his power to the test, and the success of the proof assured, him of the future obedience of his people.
EMPEROR OF RUSSIA.269
Such a man cannot be judged by the standard applied to ordinary characters. His grave and агг-thoritative voice — his magnetic and piercing look, which is often cold and fixed rather through the habit of suppressing his passions than of dissimulating his thoughts, for he is frank—his superb forehead—his features, which are those of an Apollo or a Jupiter—his immovable, imposing, and imperious expression — his figure, more noble than easy, more monumental than human, exercise upon all who approach his person a power which is irresistible. He becomes master of the wills of others, because it is seen that he is master of his own.
The following is what I have retained of the remainder of our conversation: —
" The insurrection thus appeased, your majesty must have entered the palace with feelings very different to those under which it was left; not only the tln`one, but the admiration of the world, and the sympathy of all lofty minds being, by this event, assured to your majesty."
" I did not thus view it: what I then did has been too much praised."
The emperor did not tell me that on his return he found his wife afflieted with a nervous trembling of the head, of which she has never been entirely cured. This convulsive motion is scarcely visible ; indeed, on some days, when calm and in good health, the empress is entirely free from it: but whenever she is suffering, either mentally or physically, the evil returns and augments. This noblewoman must have fearfully struggled with the inquietude occasioned by her husband's daring exposure of himself to the assassin's N 3
270 CONVERSATION WITH THE ЕМГЕПОЕ.
blow. On his return, she embraced him without speaking; but the emperor, after having soothed her, felt himself grow weak, and tln`ew himself into the arms of one of his most faithful servants, exclaiming — " "What a commencement of a rei
оО
I publish these details, because it is well they should be known, in order to teach the obscure to envy less the fortune of the great.
Whatever apparent inequality legislation may have established in the different conditions of civilised men, the equity of Providence justifies itself by maintaining a secret equality, which nothing can alter or disturb. This is done by the ageney of mental evils, which generally increase in the same ratio that physical evils diminish. There is less injustice in the world than the founders and legislators of nations have endeavoured to produce, or than the vulgar imagine they perceive: the laws of nature are more equitable than the laws of man.
These reflections passed rapidly through my mind as I conversed with the emperor, producing in me a sentiment which he would, I believe, have been rather surprised to learn that he had inspired — it was that of indescribable pity. I took care to conceal the emotion, and continued:
"I can truly say, sire, that one of the chief motives of my curiosity in visiting Kussia was the desire of approaching a prince who exercises such power over men."
" The Russians are amiable; but he should render himself worthy who would govern such a people."
¢í Your majesty has better appreciated the wants
HIS POLITICAL OPINIONS.271
and the position of this country than any of your predecessors/'
" Despotism still exists in Russia: it is the essence of my government, but it accords with the genius of the nation."
" Sire, by stopping Russia on the road of imitation, you are restoring her to herself."
"I love my country, and I believe I understand it. I assure you, that when I feel heartily weary of ail the miseries of the times, I endeavour to forget the rest of Europe by retiring towards the interior of Russia."
"In order to refresh yourself at your fountain-head ? "
" Precisely so. No one is more from his heart a Russian than I am. I am going to say to you what I would not say to another, but I feel that you will comprehend me."
Here the emperor interrupted himself, and looked at me attentively. I continued to Hsten without replying, and he proceeded : —
" I can understand republicanism: it is a plain and straightforward form of government, or, at least, it might be so; I can understand absolute monarchy, for I am myself the head of such an order of things; but I cannot understand a representative monarchy. it is the government of lies, fraud, and corruption ; and I would rather fall back even upon China than ever adopt it."
" Sire, I have always regarded representative government as a compact inevitable in certain communities at certain epochs; but like all other com-
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272 SINCERITY OF THE EMPEllQIl's LANGUAGE.
pacts, it does not solve questions — it only adjourns difficulties."
The emperor seemed to say, Go on. I continued r
" It is a truce signed between democracy and monarchy, under the auspices of two very mean tyrants, fear and
interest; and it is prolonged by that pride of intellect which takes pleasure in talking, and that popular vanity which satisfies itself on words. In short, it is the aristocracy of oratory, substituted for the aristocracy of birth : it is the government of the lawyers."
" Sir, you speak the truth," said the emperor, pressing my hand: " I have been a representative sovereign *, and the world knows what it has cost me not to have been willing to submit to the exigencies of this infamous government (I quote literally). To buy votes, to corrupt consciences, to seduce some in order to deceive others ; all those means I disdained, as degrading those who obey as much as those who command, and I have dearly paid the penalty of my straightforwardness; but, God be praised, I have done for ever with this detestable political machine. I shall never more be a constitutional king. I have too much need of saying all that I think ever to consent to reign over any people by means of stratagem and intrigue."
The name of Poland, which presented itself incessantly .to our thoughts, was not once uttered in this singular conversation.
The effect it produced on me was great. I felt myself subdued. The nobleness of sentiment which the
* In Pol;m
FETE AT THE Ï>UCHESS OF 0LDENBUEG'S. 273
emperor displayed, and the frankness of his language, seemed to me greatly to temper his omnipotence.
I confess I was dazzled î A man who could, notwithstanding my ideas of independence, make himself forgiven for being absolute monarch of sixty millions of fellow-beings, was, in my eyes, something beyond our eommon nature ; but I distrusted my own admiration. I felt like the citizens among us, who, when surprised by the grace and address of the men of other days are tempted by their good taste to yield to the captivating lure, but their principles resisting, they remain uncomfortably stiff, and endeavour to appear as insensible as possible. It is not in my nature to doubt a man's words at the moment they are addressed -to me. A human being who speaks is to me the organ of Deity: it is only by dint of reflection and experience that I recognise the possibility of design and disguise. This may be called a foolish simplicity, which perhaps it is; but T solace myself for such mental weakness by the recollection that its source is a mental virtue : my own good faith makes me believe in the sincerity of others, even in that of an emperor of Russia.