Russia in 1839 -Empire of the Czar: A Journey Through Eternal Russia
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" There has always been very little preaching in the schismatic churches; and among us, the political and religious authority has been opposed more than elsewhere to theological discussions. AYhenever there has been a wish to commence the debate of the questions at issue between Rome and Byzantium, silence has been imposed upon both parties. The points in dispute are of so little moment that the quarrel can only be perpetuated by means of ignorance. In several public institutions for education some religious instruction has been from time to time given, but this is only tolerated, and often forbidden : it is a positive, although it may appear to you an incredible fact, that religion is not publicly taught in Russia. The result is a multitude of sects, of which the government would not endure that you should suspect the existence.
" There is one which tolerates polygamy; another
* The reader will hereafter see the danger of such a confidence instanced by the arbitrary detention of a French citizen.
ITS SCHISMS.45
goes farther, and maintains not only the principle but the practice of promiscuous intercourse between the sexes.
" Our priests are forbidden to write even historical scripture ; our peasants are constantly interpreting passages from the Bible, which, taken separately, without the context, and falsely applied, frequently give rise to some new heresy, most generally Calvin-istic in its character. Before the pope of the village discovers it, it has already gained a hold among the inhabitants, and often spread among the neighbouring populations. Should the priest then treat the matter publicly, the contaminated peasants are sent to Siberia, which ruins the lord of the soil, who consequently, if previously aware of the circumstance, finds more than one way of causing the pastor to preserve a silence : so that, when at last the heresy does break out and attract the eyes of the supreme authority, the number of seceders is so considerable that it is no longer possible to act against them. Violence would divulge the mischief without stifling it; persuasion would open a door for discussion — the worst of all evils in the eyes of an absolute government: they can therefore do nothing but have recourse to silence, under whose veil the evil is concealed, without being cured; on the contrary, it gradually spreads.
" It is by religious divisions that the Russian empire will perish ; therefore to envy in us, as you do, the power of faith, is to judge us without knowing us."
Such is the opinion of the most clear-sighted and sincere men that I have met in Russia.
A foreigner, worthy of credence, and who has been
46
POLYGAMY.
long established in Moscow, has likewise informed me, that he dined some years ago with a merchant of Petersburg and his three wives — not concubines but leo`itimate wives. This merchant was a dissenter, a secret sectarian of some new church. I presume that the children borne him by his three helpmates would not be recognised as legitimate by the state ; but his conscience as a Christian remained at ease.
If I had learnt this tact from a native, I might not have recounted it; for there are Russians who amuse themselves with lying, in order to perplex and lead astray too curious or too credulous travellers ; a circumstance which tends to throw obstacles in the way of a pursuit, difficult everywhere, for those who would exercise it conscientiously, but doubly so here — I mean the pursuit of an observer.
The body of merchants is very powerful, very ancient, and very much esteemed in Moscow. The life of these rich dealers reminds us of the condition and manners of the Asiatic merchants, so well painted in the Arabian Nights. There are so many points of resemblance between Moscow and Bagdad, that in travelling through Eussia we lose the curiosity to see Persia ; Ave know it already.
I have just been present at a popular fete, held round the monastery of Devitschiepol. The actors are soldiers and peasants; the spectators, people of the higher classes, who go there in great numbers. The tents and booths for drinking are placed close to the cemetery. The feast, or fair, is kept in commemoration of some Russian saint, whose relics and images are ceremoniously visited between two libations of kicass. This evening an inconceivable consumption of that national liquor has here taken place.
DEVITSCHIEPOL.
47
The miraculous Virgin of Smolensk — others say it is her copy — is preserved in this convent, which contains eight churches.
Towards nightfall I entered the principal one, whose appearance is imposing. The obscurity aided the impression. The nuns undertake the charge of ornamenting the altars of their chapels; they acquit themselves with great punctilio of this duty—the easiest no doubt of any for people in their situation. As to the more difficult duties, they are not, I am told, particularly well observed: if I am to believe the best-informed parties, the conduct of the religious orders in Moscow is anything but edifying.
The church contains the tombs of several czarinas and princesses; amongst others, that of the ambitious Sophia, sister of Peter the Great, and of Eudoxia, the first consort of the same prince. This unhappy woman, repudiated in, I believe, 1696, was compelled to take the veil at Sousdal.
The Catholic church has so deep a respect for the indissoluble tie of marriage, that it does not permit a married Avoman to unite herself to any religious order unless her husband does the same, or takes, like her, monastic vows. Such is the rule, though with us, as with others, laws are often made to bend to interests.
The Imperial nun died at Moscow, in this monastery, 1731.
In general, the Russian convents have rather the appearance of a cluster of small houses, of a walled division of a city, than of a religious retreat. Being often destroyed and rebuilt, they have a modern look. In this climate nothing long resists the war of the elements. The whole country has the
48RURAL SCENERY IN MOSCOW.
aspect of a colony founded but yesterday. The Kremlin alone seems destined to brave the storms, and to lire as long as the empire, of which it is the emblem and the bulwark. The idea of the irrevocable is always solemn.
In Moscow points of view abound. In the streets, you see only the houses that border them. But cross a large square, open a window, or ascend a terrace, and you immediately discover a new city spread over hills separated by valleys of wheat-fields, large pools, and even woods. This city encloses a country whose undulations resemble the waves of the sea. The sea viewed from afar, has abvays the appearance of a plain, however agitated its surface may be.
Moscow is the city for painters of character pieces ; but architects, sculptors, and historical painters have nothing to do there. Clusters and masses of edifices, isolated in deserts, present multitudes of striking pictures. This ancient capital is the only large city which, although populous, still retains all the picturesque attributes of the country. It contains as many open roads as streets, as many cultivated fields as hills covered with buildings, as many deserted valleys as public squares. After leaving the crowded centre, we find ourselves among lakes, forests, and villages, rather than in a city. Here, rises a stately monastery, surmounted with its multitudes of church-steeples ; there, hills built to the summit; others again bear only crops of corn, between them winds a stream of water; a little farther are isolated edifices, as singular as varied in their style ; among them are theatres with antique peristyles, and palaces of wood — the only private dwellings that display a national architecture.
DRUNKENNESS AMONG THE RUSSIANS. 49
All these varied structures are half concealed by verdant foliage, whilst the entire poetical decoration is crowned by the old Kremlin, with its indented walls and singular towers. That Parthenon of the Slavonians commands and protects Moscow: it reminds one of the Doge of Venice seated in the midst of his senate.
This evening, the tents where the holiday folks of Devitschiepol were congregated, emitted various scents, the mixture of which produced an atmosphere that was intolerable. There was perfumed Russian leather, spirituous liquors, sour beer, cabbages, the grease of the boots of Cossacks, and the musk and ambergris of numerous fashionable loiterers, w
ho appeared determined to suffer from ennui, were it only out of aristocratic pride. I found it impossible long to breathe this mephitic air.
The greatest pleasure of the people is drunkenness; in other words, forgctfulness. Unfortunate beings ! they must dream if they would be happy. As a proof of the good temper of the Russians, when the mugies get tipsy, these men, brutalised as thcy are, become softened, instead of infuriated. Unlike the drunkards of our country, who quarrel and fight, they weep and embrace each other. Curious and interesting nation! it would be delightful to make them happy. But the task is hard, if not impossible. Show me how to satisfy the vague desires of a giant, — young, idle, ignorant, ambitious, and so shackled that he can scarcely stir hand or foot. Never do I pity this people without equally pitying the all-powerful man who is their governor.
I soon left the taverns to walk in the square,
VOL. III.D
50HIDDEN POETRY.
where the promenaders raised clouds of dust. The summers of Athens are long, but the days are short, and, owing to the sea-breeze, the air is scarcely hotter than it is at Moscow during the short northern heats. The insupportable summer of this year is, however, now nearly over; the nights return, and winter will soon follow. Beyond the fair, the view of the distant pine-forests that surround the city with a girdle of mourning, the slowly decreasing tints of a long twilight, all tended to heighten the effect of the monotonous landscape of the north, upon whose face poetry is written in a mystic tongue — a tongue which we do not understand.
In treading this oppressed earth I hear, without comprehending them, the Lamentations of an unknown Jeremiah. Despotism must give birth to prophets; —the future is the paradise of slaves and the hell of tyrants ! A few notes of a plaintive song, oblique, deceitful, furtive glances — easily interpret to me the thoughts that spring in the hearts of this people: but youth, which, little valued though it be, is more favourable to study than riper age, could alone teach me thoroughly all the mysteries of their poetry of sorrow. I congratulate myself on havino` seen this festival, so devoid of gaiety, but, likewise, so different from those of other lands. The Cossacks were to be seen in great numbers among the promenaders and the drinkers who filled tíie square. They formed silent groups around singers, whose piercing voices chanted forth melancholy words set to a softly pleasing tune, although its rhythm was strongly marked. The air was the national son«· of the Don Cossacks. It has a kind of resemblance to
SONG OF THE DON COSSACKS.51
some old Spanish melodies, but is more plaintive; it is soft yet penetrating as the warble of the nightingale when heard at a distance, by night, in the depths of the woods. Now and then the bystanders repeated in chorus the last words of the strophe.
The following is a prosaic translation, verse by verse, which a Russian has just made for me :
THE YOUNG COSSACK.
They shout the loud alarm, My war steed paws the ground ;
I hear him neigh,
О ! let me go !
THE MAIDEN.
Let others rush to death :
Too young and gentle, thou
Shalt yet watch o'er our cottage home ;
Thou must not pass the Don.
THE YOUNG COSSACK.
The foe, the foe,— to arms ! — I go to fight for thee : If gentle here, against the foe, Though young, I still am brave.
The old Cossack would blush with wrath and shame
If I should stay behind.
THE MAIDEN.
See thy mother weeping, Behold her sinking frame ; We shall be victims of thy rage, Ere yet the foe is seen.
THE YOUNG COSSACK.
When they talk of the campaign, They would call me a poltroon : But if I die, and comrades praise my name, Thy tears shall soon be dried. D 2
52
THE CHARACTER OF
THE MAIDEN.
Never! we'll sleep within the same dark tomb ; If thou must die, I follow. Thou goest! but still together we shall fall: Adieu ! my tears are spent.
The sentiment embodied in these words appears modern, but the melody has a charm of antiquity and simplicity, which would make me willing to pass hours in listening to them, as repeated by the voices of the natives.
They formerly danced in Paris a Russian dance, which this music has recalled to my mind. But when heard on the spot, national melodies produce a far more powerful impression than they can do elsewhere. There is more melancholy than passion in the songs of the northern people; but the impression which they cause is never forgotten, whereas a more lively emotion soon vanishes. Melancholy is more abiding than passion. After having listened to this air for some time, I found it less monotonous and more expressive, — such is the ordinary effect of simple music; repetition imparts to it a new power. The Uralian Cossacks have also a song peculiar to themselves, which I regret not having heard.
This race of men deserves a separate study, but it could not be easily prosecuted by a stranger, hurried as I am. The Cossacks form a military family, a subdued horde, rather than a body of troops subjected to discipline. Attached to their chiefs as a dog is to his master, they obey orders with more affection, and less servility, than the other Russian soldiers. In a land where nothing is defined, they view themselves as allies; they do not feel as slaves
THE COSSACKS.53
of the Imperial government. Their activity, their wandering habits, the speed and spirit of their horses, the co-acting patience and address of man and beast, their mutual endurance of fatigue and hardship, constitute, in themselves, а ролуег. It is impossible not to admire the geographical instinct which aids these savage guides of the army to lead the way, without reference to roads, in the countries they invade, whether they be the wildest and most sterile deserts, or the most populous and civilised lands. In war, does not the very name of Cossack spread terror among the enemy ? The generals who know how to make use of such a light cavalry have a means of action at their disposal, which the commanders of the most civilised armies cannot obtain.
The Cossacks are said to be naturally amiable. They have more gentleness and sensibility than could be fairly expected in so rude a community; but their excessive ignorance is lamentable in its effects, both on themselves and their masters.
When I think of the way in which their officers avail themselves of the credulity of the soldier, every higher feeling of my mind rises indignantly against a government which can descend to such subterfuges, or which does not punish such of its servants as dare to have recourse to them.
I have it from good authority, that many of the Cossack chiefs led their men away from their country during the war of 1814 and 1815, saying to them : " Kill your enemies ; strike without fear. If you fall in combat, you will, within three days, be again with your wives and children; you will rise again, both in D .3
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POLITICAL SUBTERFUGES.
flesh and bone, body and soul. What then have you to fear ? "
Men accustomed to recognise the voice of God the Father in that of their officers, embraced literally the promises made to them, and fought with that courage with which we are acquainted, — namely, they fled like marauders whenever they could escape from danger, and faced death like soldiers whenever it was inevitable. To excite soldiers by legitimate mean* to brave death, is the duty of a commander; but to lead them to death by deceiving them, and by concealing it from them, is to take all virtue from their courage, all moral dignity from their devotion. If war excuses every thing, as certain people pretend, what shall excuse war ?
Is it possible to picture to ourselves without horror and disgust, the moral state of a nation whose armies are thus directed ? This trait has happened to come to my knowledge ; but how many similar or worse must remain unknown! When once people have recourse to puerile subterfuges to govern their fellow men, where are they to stop ? I will conclude with a fable, which appears as if made expressly to justify my indignation. The idea is that of a Polish bishop's. famous for his wit, under the reign of Fre
derick II.: the imitation in French is by Count Elzé*ar de Sabran.*
L'ATTELAGE. — Fable.
Un habile c·ocher menait un equipage, Avcc quatre clievaux par couples attelés ; Après les avoir muselés,
* Uncle of the author. — Trans.
A POLISH FABLE.
En les guidant, il leur tint se langage :
N"e vous laisser pas devancer,
Disalt il a ceux de derrière ;
N¯e vous laisser pas dépasser,
N' même atteindre en si belle carrière
Disait-il a ceux de devant,
Qui I`écoutaient le nez au vent;
Un passant dans cette occurrence,
Lui dit alors à ce propos :
Vous trompez ces pauvres chevaux,
II est vrai, reprit il, inais la voiture avance.
D 4
56
THE TARTAR MOSQUE.
CHAP. XXIX.
THE TARTAR MOSQUE. THE DESCENDANTS OF THE MONGOLS IN
MOSCOW.TOWER OF SOÜKAREFF. COLOSSAL RESERVOIR. —
BYZANTINE ARCHITECTURE. PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS.THE EM
PEROR EVERYWHERE.DISSIMILARITY IN THE SLAVONIAN AND
GERMAN CHARACTERS.THE NOBLEMEN'S CLUB. POLITE EDU
CATION OF THE RUSSIANS. HABITS OF THE HIGHER CLASSES.
. A RUSSIAN COFFEE-HOUSE. RELIGIOUS BELIEF OF THE OLD