Delirious Delhi
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fear of, 30–31
generation gap, 224–225
liberalization of in 1990s, 220–221, 223, 366
moving out , 359–361, 378
old vs. new, 220–221, 224–228, 287–288, 362–372, 381
Partition, 301–302
“real” India, 355–356
South India, 356–357, 361
Indian food
in America, 128–129
Mughal-style, 150, 163
South Indian, 150, 165
intellectual property, 201–204
jugaad, 257–260
languages
cursing, 83–84, 98–100
English, 95-96, 98-100
Hindi, 20–22, 95–98, 360
Lutyens, Edward, 40, 42
Lutyens’ Delhi, 40–45
maids. See servants
malls, 224–227
Saket Citywalk Mall, 225
manual labor, 249, 312–319, 326–329
guards, 276–277, 316–319
kabadiwallahs, 2, 28–29
painters, 317
repairmen, 324–326
sweepers, 10
markets, 39, 48–49, 196, 200, 213–214, 225–228, 352
Hauz Khas Market, 176, INA Market, 221, 224
Khan el-Khalili (Cairo), 67
Khan Market, 150–151, 221–224, 227
Nehru Place, 193–197
Palika Bazaar, 36, 199–201
Saket PVR Market, 191–192
Sunday book market, 197–199
marriage, 119–122
medical care. See also hospitals
dentists, 186, 192
doctors, 189–190
emergencies, 184–186
pharmacies, 175, 206–207
pharmacies in New York City, 175, 205
medication, 174–177, 189-192
antibiotics, 174–175
folk remedies, 178–179
malaria medicine, 189–192
Mehrauli-Gurgaon (MG) Road, 14, 78, 85, 211, 232–237, 372
toll booth, 89–91
middle class, 326–329, 376
mom-and-pop stores, See retail, subsidence retail
Mumbai, 290, 334
Malabar Hill, 334
music, 86–87
Gayatri Mantra (song), 243–244
National Capital Region. See Delhi region
National Highway (NH) 8, 232–235, 252
negotiating, 63–70, 135–137, 196, 209–214
ill will, 66, 70
in the US, 209–210
tactics, 210–214
neighborhoods
Chanakyapuri, 42–43
Connaught Place (CP), 35–36, 165–166, 199–200, 211, 223, 364
Daryaganj, 376–378
Greater Kailash-I, 46
Greater Kailash-II, 4, 30, 31, 33, 46, 92, 361–362
Green Park, 47
Hauz Khas Enclave, 46, 214–221, 353
Hauz Khas Market area, 1, 16, 45–46
Hauz Khas Village, 46
Lajpat Nagar IV, 52
Lutyens’ Delhi, 40–45
Malviya Nagar, 46
Manju Ta Kila, 38–39
New Delhi. See above: Chanakyapuri; Lutyens’ Delhi,
Okhla Industrial Estates Phase III, 231–232
Old Delhi, 32–35, 163
Saket, 46
Shanti Niketan, 16, 46
Vasant Vihar, 46
New Delhi. See Lutyens’ Delhi; neighborhoods, Chanakyapuri
New York City,
attitude, 100–103
crime in, 293–294
development, 373–375
newspapers, 280–281, 283–285, 290
nuisances
drunk driving, 288–289
hijras, 184, 262
honking, 2
littering, 284
monkeys, 173
pigeons, 9
pollution, 11–12, 14–15, 230–231, 281
public urination, 280–284
spitting, 284
stray dogs, 8–9
office boys. See peons
office culture, 245–252, 256–257, 262–263, 300–303, 362
in New York City, 300–301
peons, 247–251
office environment, 230, 242–244, 255–257
Outer Ring Road, 234–235
Pardada Pardadi Educational Society, 229–230, 263–269
parks, 49–50, 180
Gulmohar Park, 50, 180
peons, 247–251
pirated goods. See bootlegged goods
police, 296–299, 311
politicians, 40–41, 233
poverty, 302–304
desensitization, 304
migrants, 253, 314, 326
ragpickers, 323–324
public transportation. See transportation
rape. See crime, against women
real estate, 221–224, 376–378
religion
Christianity, 107–109
Hinduism, 105–110
Islam, 109–110
Judaism, 107–109
langar, 166
poojas, 108
Sikhism, 166
restaurants, 92–94, 147–151, 285
Bukhara, 148–149
Café Coffee Day, 260–261, 354
dhabas, 161–162
Domino’s Pizza, 261
five-star hotels, 148–149
Indian, 149–151
Karim’s, 162–164, 167–169
Nathu’s Sweets, 92–93, 135, 161, 361
non-Indian, 148
Roshan Di Kulfi, 162
Sagar Ratna, 150
Saravana Bhavan, 36, 150
sweets shops, 161–162
upscale, 150–151
Western chains, 147
retail, 208–209. See also markets
subsidence retail, 208–209, 216–219
“sealed” buildings, 236–237
security, 183–185. See also crime servants, 10, 20–21, 129–131, 319–323
servents (continued) in the US, 319–320
sewage, 39
Shri Morning Palace, 219–221
Simpsons, The, 31–32
Singapore, 379–381
crime in, 290
Little India, 379–380
Orchard Road, 223
skyscrapers, 41–42. See also Gurgaon, DLF Cyber City
Slumdog Millionaire (movie), 138–139
spices
chaat masala, 154
Roopak (spice shops), 203
spiciness, 131
status, Western and Indian perceptions of, 251–252
street vendors, 304–306, 309–312, 354–355
subway. See transportation, Delhi Metro
Sulabh International Social Service Organization, 283
swimming, 350–351
taxes, 344–346
taxis, 79–91
drivers, 80–81, 83–91, 316
fare negotiation, 81
taxi stand, 79–81
terrorism, 182–183
toilets, public, 281-284
tourists
domestic, 103–105
Western, 330–334
traffic, 52, 232–235, 237–241, 244–245, 309–310, 367–369
transportation
bicycling, 61
Blueline, 170–173
Bus Rapid Transit (BRT), 52, 72
buses, 170–173, 357–358.
Delhi Metro, 235–237, 281, 286–288, 312–313, 365, 370–372
drivers, 59–60
motorcycles, 78–79
public transportation, 60–61, 238–239
urban design, 41–42, 47–48, 53–54, 58, 281–284, 367–372
villages, 258, 264–269, 365
weather, 49
fall, 19
heat, 15–16, 18–19, 178–179, 352
humidity, 16–17
monsoon, 17–19
rain, 17–18, 49–50
spring, 15<
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summer, 16–17
winter, 11–15, 143, 289, 316–318
weddings, 114–118
Mehndi Ceremony, 115–116, 118
Western, 116–117
women’s safety. See crime, against
women
Yamuna River, 37–40, 374–375