Birds of Passage

by Henrietta Clive

  The walls have been magnificent with gold, scarlet, and green and are still tolerably clean and good and there is not any glare. I am glad to have seen this sort of building as it gives a complete idea of an Eastern palace. The number of interior rooms is immense with strange passages that lead to nothing.

  The air is delightful. It is like nothing I have felt in the East and if Dhoondiah does not disturb us we are in perfect comfort here. Colonel Close wrote to Captain Brown today and says that he is still farther from us. After the Rock at Ryacottah this is really not only a palace but a paradise and I have not the least doubt it will make a material change in our health. The girls are well and much delighted. The appearance of this place makes me wish more than ever that you should come. What I have as yet seen is better than I expected. Many loves to you.

  We walked in the commanding officer’s garden, where there is a beautiful avenue of cypress trees, besides peach trees &c. &c. and we visited another garden afterwards, containing all sorts of plants. In the garden of the palace, among low buildings, which had been zenanas, we found many white rose trees. Mr Webbe dined here on his road to Madras.

  May 20th I went the night we came here to the garden and it was agreed that if you were to see it, it would be difficult to make you leave it again. The havildar says that since 1791 not the least care even in respect to the watering (though there is a large tank on purpose above it) has been taken of it. The trees are magnificent for fruit trees and loaded with fruit. The garden that belongs to the Commanding officer is small but filled with fine cypresses and a great many rose trees and apple trees, enough to plant a large orchard. It was late before we had been round the garden that therefore I could not see everything so exactly as I shall by and bye. Josiah Webbe came here yesterday and as we dined later than usual we could not go out afterwards. We have some small squares that have some plants and very well contrived with small channels for watering them. It is very pleasant to me to gather a large handful of roses before breakfast.

  There is a bath that I think when you are building such things might be very pleasant for you. Water was thrown over me. I tried it yesterday in great comfort. It is in a standing place raised with a little wall round it that the water does not spread over the room again or on the clothes and runs off directly. It is where Tipu was bathed and washed his head. There is another apartment which I am sure would divert you as it did us.

  We are all pretty well as Josiah Webbe will tell you. Colonel Mackay has promised to collect some seeds of trees we like and will send them. He came with us here with Captain Graham, the collector. Notwithstanding all his bows, we like him much. He knows a good deal of natural history and plants and is very good about picking out those sort of things for me. I have tried to find some stones worth sending to you, but it is impossible. They are not worth it.

  We are hoping for rain very much. It is hot in the room I have to sit in but the galleries or verandas are more delightful than anything I have ever seen and we wish we could transport them to Madras. The girls are well. Charly is a little thin but is now well. We are learning with all our might and shall bring back a great many stories of Tipu. He must have been a most horrid creature and not a little mad.

  Many loves to you from the girls.

  The history of Mysore that Captain Sydenham sent to Charly proved to be most useful to the travellers who were coming to understand more and more what sort of man Tipu Sultan was and the manner by which the British had assumed his world:

  ‘By the treaty of Seringapatam in 1792 a vast portion of the extensive dominions of Tipu were divided amongst the allied powers. The provinces of Malabar, the Barahmahal, and Salem countries were assigned to the Company. The surrounding provinces to the north were annexed to the territories of the Nizam; and Benkipour, Sanoor, and the extensive province to the west and NW fell to the share of the Mahrattas.

  ‘By the partition treaty of Seringapatam in 1799, the remainder of the actual dominions of the late Tipu Sultan were divided between the Company, the Nizam, and the Rajah of Mysore; so that by one of the most rapid and extraordinary revolutions which are recorded in the chequered annals of Indian history, the family of the ancient Rajahs of Mysore, have been placed in possession of a territory, far more extensive than the hereditary dominions of their ancestors. The Viceroy of the Mogul, or the Nizam, has recovered the large and fertile provinces which were first conquered by the original Mussulman invaders. And the English Company had established their power on this side of India, with firm and permanent ties of Moderation, Justice and Magnanimity.’

  In Bangalore on May 21st, Henrietta, Harry, Charly and Anna resumed their visits to places of local interest and continued their education into the various expressions of religion in India. They viewed a swamy bull of immense size and learned of the god Hanuman, depicted as an immense stone monkey. They were allowed to enter a Malabar temple since it had already been polluted by the Mahrattas and found to their amazement that one of the carved figures had five heads and many arms.

  May 23rd, Henrietta to Lord Clive

  I hear the 25th arrived this morning near this place and they are ordered to be ready to march. The country round this good place is a little bare and open. The roads will soon be good enough on all sides for me to drive. At present there are not many that are comfortable. You cannot imagine how pleasant the carriage and the bandy are to me and how much they have contributed to my amusement.

  If there is not a good deal of rain I believe the trees in the garden will almost all die. There is an immense tank at the end of it, but it is nearly dry. The garden belonging to the commanding officer is I think much pleasanter than that of the company and is in much better order. They are near together with a fine mango tope between them. It is a great pity to see large parts and divisions of the garden filled with rose trees, but quite neglected and wild and other divisions of fine apple trees. If you would send some cuttings of myrtle it would be a very good deed. There is not any here and indeed fewer varieties of plants than I expected.

  I enjoy the palace very much. I have not had so much room to walk about for a long time and there is constant breeze in the rooms we live in, but my bedchamber is very hot. If the weather does not change I must sleep in the tent.

  Certainly the change in Harry is very great since we left Ryacottah. She has some bloom and looks fresh. Charly is rather thin though her looks are improved very much.

  There is a sweetness and purity in the air that is beyond all description.

  We have been today to see some of the manufactories of this place, which are chiefly of silk and some pretty.

  I suppose you are very busy but I should like to hear from you. I am sure complete health is necessary to support the heats of Madras.

  Adieu.

  On May 25th General Ross dined with the travellers on his way to Seringapatam to inspect the fortifications. He stopped in Bangalore to examine the old fort, in order to decide whether the foundations would support the new building if it were repaired.

  May 25th, Henrietta to Lord Clive

  You must allow it was a little shabby to send a letter without a word with it when you might as well have said if you were well or not. I hear from Dr Thomas that you are so and that there are new novels arrived which I suppose you are reading instead of writing to me. Last night after I was gone to bed Major Copper came to Captain Brown and went on to Madras directly. He carries you some plants of raspberry and blackberry and some seeds.

  Last night we walked round the rampart. It is dismal to behold it in its present state. Tipu blew up the stones and large pavement of brick when he destroyed it …

  Adieu

  and many loves.

  May 27th, Henrietta to Lord Clive

  I was very agreeably surprised by your letter while I was writing under the cypress trees early yesterday morning and just now the letters arrived for which we thank you much. I am very glad you give a better account of yourself than you did in your last letter that you h
ave left off your large shoes. We are well and likely to be better as we had a fine rain last night in which we were all wet to the skin.

  A Captain Dees is come with 300 or 400 horses, but the storm has put them into more confusion than Dhoondiah can ever do. They got loose and many are wandering about the country. The 28th has not yet arrived. We are very quiet here within the walls.

  You are to have letters tomorrow from two ladies, at least I believe so. They take a great deal of pains with the Moors and me with my Persian. It is a great amusement.

  Captain Brown has had the history of your expenses from Johnson and thinks that there is an appearance of there being a little too much. He has given me the enclosed paper and rather wishes you to enquire about it as they seem to draw for money at least they did last year sometime when it was wanted by which he says you pay interest unnecessarily. We are as economical as we can be. There is scarcely anything here to be bought, but I shall bring a little of the manufactories which they will make for me.

  Adieu, my dear Lord.

  May 30th, Henrietta to Lord Clive

  I did not write to you yesterday because you had had a letter from a fair lady the day before that assured you we were alive. I have got two trees of sandalwood, about six feet long and one diameter. They are fresh and just cut down. Would you like to have any more as the havildar can get more if you wish it from Saverdroog. I shall try to get some young plants if possible to send you. We mean to send these trees bya bye through Ryacottah where they will take up a red wood tree from Col Mackay and the whole with the future rose and other trees will make a load for a bandy with the assistance of three antelopes, who are the greatest favourites and perfectly tame following us about. Captain Brown says it will be much better to send them all together as we want things here in return and he does not wish to part with any lascars. We wish much to have some common garden seeds sent here. Radishes, turnips, or anything: ours are nearly at an end.

  We have had very fine rain for some evenings and a great deal of lightning. I will not tantalise you by telling you how the thermometer was this morning.

  I should like much to send rose trees. They are so charming, but I doubt if it is not too hot in your country for them to travel. I hear of a great deal of sandalwood to be sold at Seringapatam, which they are sending in cars to Madras. Perhaps it may be good.

  Colonel Close is to come here in a few days. General Ross goes I believe on Sunday to Seringapatam. We are trying to collect uncommon birds but as yet have not been very successful.

  The garden is at present not in a state to be amusing except as a walk, being perfectly wild. The apple trees and roses would delight you. You will tell me what number and sorts you wish to have.

  Many loves to you.

  June 1st, Henrietta to Lord Clive

  I have been breakfasting under the shade of rose apple trees in the garden in great comfort, and enjoying a very cool morning. I wish you could enjoy the fine air that we are at this moment. Yesterday we had an excellent pineapple arrived from William Call’s late garden, in other words yours, which really was the best I have ever eaten in this country.

  The girls are in good spirits as usual and delighted with every little bush in the garden. I see Charly will be very fond of plants and Harry as fond of feeding animals. She pays the greatest attention to the antelopes, which are very beautiful and quite tame.

  In spite of all sorts of curtains and shades my eyes suffer a good deal which is the only unpleasant thing as I wish to employ them much. Pray don’t forget the kitchen garden seeds. The Commanding Officer’s garden supplies us now. Many loves to you.

  The thermometer ranged from 70 to 81 degrees, during May and June. The travellers found the palace hot, so they used their tents at night, which were pitched in the beautiful avenue of cypress trees, in the commanding officer’s garden. They continued their early morning visits to see celebrated shrines of the gods. Some of the idols, which were carried about during the Hussein Hassan feast held at this time were made of gold, and some of silver paper. Some represented mosques. It appeared that on this day the different religions joined together in this feast. On June 3rd Charly wrote in her journal: ‘About twelve o’clock at night we went to see the idols carried about the pettah; some had blue lights, and some Bengal lights, and generally one man sang the death of Hussein Hassan, the others joining in the chorus, beating their breasts at the same time, and seeming quite in earnest. During the ceremony, there were people dancing round the fire, and calling out repeatedly Hussein Hassan Ali! Many were painted with charcoal and oil, and some with white and red. The boys had their faces painted red and white, with red and white sashes twisted together and white petticoats with green (Ali’s colour) bells. They went about singing. The night was so cold, that it required shawls in the house.’ Charly continued her account on June 4th: ‘At twelve o’clock we went to see the ceremony at the Tank. All the little Mosques were pulled to pieces and washed, and then put together again; they are presented to the Tank by the people, who join in singing and dancing as if they were mad. When the ceremony was over, the shrines were covered with a cloth, and carried home without any procession. The boys continued singing, in their dresses of yesterday, and were by this time very hoarse. There was a fight, and a man was killed. Everybody collected money, and gave dinners to the poor, and to the beggars. It was half-past three when we got home. One of the elephants died suddenly.’

  June 4th, Henrietta to Lord Clive

  It would be cruel to tell you the height of the thermometer. Yesterday evening even my Welsh blood asked for a shawl. I had a delightful walk this morning at seven o’clock through the garden really walking as if round the shrubbery at Walcot to make me comfortable before breakfast. The walks are cleared of grass and we are very comfortable. If you were once to see the garden I am sure you would never leave it again.

  I forgot I believe to mention that Captain Brown is very anxious for your answer about the trees as we are in want of stores or shall be by the time the bandy can go to Madras and return and he wishes to send the trees by that opportunity.

  I see the Marquis of Wellesley in the Gazetteer from the overland dispatch. Is he to have all spots of tygers and flags and others nothing, either solid or ornamental?

  I wish I could send you a fine whistling wind that I have round me at this moment. This country is well worth the pains of taking it. It will be pleasant to you to know the great numbers of the old inhabitants are returning here some after ten or twelve years absence. We met a large party a few nights ago and they say they come in every day particularly since we came here. They fancy it is a proof of the security of the place. Colonel Close and Purneah are expected everyday. Many loves from the girls.

  On June 5th the 25th Regiment passed through on their way to Chittleddroog, for the approaching campaign against Dhoondiah. The travellers in residence proved of some use in aiding the passage of the troops. Captain Brown was active in collecting means for conveying (bullocks and elephants) and feeding them.

  June 7th, Henrietta to Lord Clive

  I am sorry to find that you have had a little more rheumatism and afraid that the Red Hills where you are tempted, I am sure, to be more in the sun than you ought to. We are in some measure the cause of it. All your improvements at this time of the year are bad for your health and the sun must be terrible at Madras. We are all well.

  The 25th Dragoon came here two days ago and marches again tomorrow towards Chitteldroog. Colonel Close is expected every day with Purneah. I wish it was as necessary for a Governor of the Carnatic to see the country and judge of all things as it is for the Resident of the Mysore.

  Josiah Webbe sent a Gazette this morning. What do you think of peace and a King of France? I want much to know what is likely to happen. We are anxious to see news of the Madras Lottery.* My fortune is to be much increased by it. But the vile newspaper today does not give a list of the prizes.

  We have been obliged to pick out a little warm room for the e
vening and have one that just holds us at the end of the gallery. This must sound very strange to you. All sorts of loves to you from the girls. It is pleasant to look at their altered faces. I wish you could do so too.

  Adieu.

  June 10th, Henrietta to Lord Clive

  You have been sometime without writing which is not a little shabby, I think, considering so many fair ladies write from hence. Colonel Close and Purneah arrived this morning and came here with shawls and flowers. I do not know whether we are to keep them or not, but we are all in hopes it may be lawful as they are very beautiful. I shall enquire of Col Close what is right. We are all well. The rain is not come yet and is much wanted for the cultivation.

  Colonel Close is much pleased with the number of the inhabitants here returned since he was here four months ago. There are great numbers and they are coming in fast. All this must be pleasant to My Lord, the Governor.

  I have got fifty young sandalwood trees. They are very small and are for the present in the garden till you choose to have them. I doubt the safety of moving trees at this time of the year into the Carnatic.

  We have now and then flying reports of Dhoondiah being beaten, but I am afraid without much foundation. The 25th marched on Sunday morning. Many loves to you from two damsels in perfect health and spirits.

  June 13th, Henrietta to Lord Clive

  I really do not think you deserve so many letters when you never write to me. It is three weeks today since I had one from you and I desired particularly that you would answer me about the trees for your garden as Brown is anxious to send away the bandy, as we shall have no wine if it does not set out soon. Be so gracious as to have a permit, I forget the right word, for the bandy to pass through his Highness’s dominions. We are all well and very cool. Colonel Close and his suite breakfasted with me under some very fine rose apple trees in the company’s garden and tomorrow we breakfast and, I believe, drive with him to a pretty place seven or eight miles from hence in way to Ooscotah.