Birds of Passage

by Henrietta Clive

  I returned home by the gate where Tipu was killed. It was low and there are still many marks of blood on the walls. Bodies were so heaped above and below that all passage was impossible. It is near the palace where he was supposed to have intended to go. I forgot to mention that from the town we came into the great square of the palace where his sons now live. The great room is very fine, supported by two rows of pillars and painted with tygers’ stripes of green and yellow upon a scarlet ground. Within is the room in which Tipu slept. It is large and on each window an iron grating and with many locks to the door. Captain Marriot, who has charge of the younger children, lives there.

  I dined with Colonel Saxon in a house built by Haidar for Tipu when he was young and afterwards inhabited by Mozes Udeen. It is in the usual form but more airy and large.

  In the evening I went to the arsenal. There were 10,000 stands of arms, many made there and found in the palace. They appeared to me very light in the butt but the bayonets were of a formidable shape. There were nine hundred pieces of cannon in the fort. Some were ornamented with two tygers, which had been made here, and some with a tyger tearing a man’s head.

  August 8th, Seringapatam, Henrietta to Lord Clive

  My dear Lord Clive – I intended to have written to you yesterday but I was really so tired I could not. I have seen a great deal, some of which I shall tell you and keep the rest till we meet. On Friday we went to see the zenana. There are many that have great remains of beauty, but few are young. The first we saw was the great widow of Haidar and a most beautiful person she must have been. They were in different places and it was right to go to Haidar’s family first. The last was Tipu’s great widow who interested us in her appearance very much …

  Afterwards I went to see the ancient palace of the Rajah of Mysore with General Flood. It is built on a larger scale than that of Tipu. The pillars are more lofty and airy. The doors were once carved with ivory, very much worked. Those were all torn off by the soldiers. Mrs Gordon gave me some pieces of it: the carving of the cornices is studded with mother of pearl. As this palace is to be pushed down I desired the Major to secure for you some elephants that are extremely well carved on each side of the door. I do not yet know their size but I think they might do, as you said, for the steps of your new room. The carving is very sharp and good. Their size it is not easy to see as they are much covered with dust, but I believe they are sitting down. I shall have them measured bya bye. I cannot find anything else likely to suit you here …

  In the evening there was a ball, not very numerous but very good. The dancers were Mrs Gordon, the girls, and Signora Anna.

  We have so much to see and to do that we are sometimes tired, but we are well. The girls are delighted and in great spirits.

  Today we breakfasted at the bungalow at the Lal Baugh. It is upon the point of the island were the rivers join and very pleasant. I am sure if you were to see this place you would be delighted. It is both magnificent and pretty and comfortable. We again went to Haidar’s and Tipu’s tomb and here we are again having been to a church where the sermon was very short. Mrs Clark prayed where Tipu used to sit in the front of his palace.

  Tomorrow we proceed to Mysore and see the antelopes hunted by chitas on our road. I think it will make a good Eastern story. We shall go on elephants to the chase. I shall write again from Mysore.

  The accounts last night were that Colonel Stevenson and Colonel Gower had met and that the force was divided and intended to surround Dhoondiah who was … with 5 or 6000 horse, but had disbanded all his infantry. A director came across from Scindia’s Army, which he said was five marches from Colonel Wellesley’s with friendly intentions towards the English, which was supposed to be from fear.

  Pray will you be so gracious as to send up a few of the roots from England to Mrs Gordon. I have promised to let her have some to try here. We have sent all the baggage on down the pass which is I understand very difficult and have tents from hence which means we shall not have occasion to wait at all there.

  I am very glad to find by the letters I received yesterday enclosed by you that Mrs Rothman has a son and is in perfect health. I confess I was growing a little anxious about her. You might have said something yourself. I wish much to know about Tranquebar as we shall go on as straight as we can and I wish to form all my plans. I trust I shall hear from you soon. We know as little of Madras as if we were at Japan. Loves from the girls. Adieu. I am in a hurry as we are going to dine with an odd old Colonel Meadwitte, who is not very amusing.

  Ever my dear Lord, yours affectionately

  H. A. C.

  August 9th, Henrietta’s journal

  We went round the fort with General Ross who explained all the affair and I think I understand the proceedings of the siege very tolerably. We saw the breach more built up. It is three miles round with a double ditch and fortification. It has cost, since the siege by Lord Cornwallis, 60 lacs of rupees. The inner ditch is not filled with water, which was not at first intended.

  Tipu had a dream one night on the subject and ordered it to be filled with water directly. He left a book in which he wrote all his dreams and was very much directed by them. He had a talisman on his arm which while he wore it no harm could befall him. I hear that it was opened after his death and was really broken. There is some doubt if it had ever been complete. After breakfast I went up the minarets of the great Mosque. It is kept in great order. There is an extensive view, but over a very dreary country. The steps were not high, but the passage became narrow near the top round. The dome is a little rail and sufficient room to pass.

  On August 9th Charly recorded her final impression of Seringapatam: ‘We went round the fort, and saw the choultry under the ramparts that Tipu lived in during the last fortnight of the siege. We afterwards ascended the minarets. They are high narrow edifices, one on each side of the mosque; they are lighted up on the great feast days. This is the mosque that Tipu always went to; the place in which he sat had a high wall round it, and was so formed, that a musket-shot fired from below, could not touch him as he was much higher than the floor of the mosque.’

  August 10th, Henrietta’s journal

  We went to the palace to hear prayers read by Mrs Clark to the English troops. It did not last many minutes after which I went to breakfast in the bungalow at the Lal Baugh and again to see that beautiful palace, though painted white and nearly covered with gilding is not glaring or disagreeable. Afterwards I went once more to see Haidar’s tomb and the mosque where Tipu to the last had a private door that he could go in and out without being seen by those within it.

  I dined with Colonel Mandeville in a house once belonging to Abdul Kalich and afterwards went to see Major Grant’s house and his garden. I forgot to mention that last night we drank tea with General Ross and went to see the illumination of the Minaret, but the place did not answer for it and the wind was so high the lights were extinguished very soon.

  * Tipu marked his possessions with bubris, a pattern of tiger stripes, tigers and tiger-heads.

  † Lord Cornwallis’s army in 1792

  Mysore: August 11th–14th

  ‘In the banquet of life, drink a cup or two and depart. That is to say entertain not a wish for perpetual enjoyment.’

  Hafiz, translated by Lady Henrietta Clive

  On August 11th Henrietta, Anna, Harry and Charly rode on elephants and observed tigers hunting antelopes as they made their way to Mysore, the Rajah’s capital city and nine miles from Seringapatam. All their tents, and baggage, went on to the Guzelhutty Pass. The bandies had to be pulled to pieces and carried, as well as the baggage, piecemeal, on men’s heads. Captain Grant and Mrs Gordon lent them their tents, until they could regain their own.

  August 11th, Henrietta’s journal

  … Six tygers are placed each on a sort of bed in a cart, tied down loosely with leather hoodwinks over their eyes. The carriages move on slowly and when they approach a herd of antelopes, a tyger is released. At first he moved very gently, stopp
ing often for some minutes. By degrees he increased his pace to the greatest velocity and sprang after the antelope whose blood he sucked. It was a few minutes before he quitted his hold. The keeper again blinded him and replaced him again in the cart giving him the leg of the animal as a reward. Soon afterwards three tygers were released at the same time, but as they crossed each other and entangled the chain neither of them caught their game. It is a most horrid sport I think and very well to see once as a curiosity.

  August 12th, Mysore, Henrietta to Lord Clive

  We came here yesterday and in our road hunted antelopes with tygers. It is much like coursing in England … The country improves as you approach Mysore, which is situated in a little hollow with much cultivation near it and several tanks. This place is far superior to Seringapatam. It is cultivated and in a pretty little valley and infinitely cooler. I really think the Doulat Baugh almost as hot as it is at Madras. The fort built by Tipu is now falling down. He gave it up after having discovered that it was impossible to have any water. The stores, which he removed from the old fort, are now returning to rebuild it for the Rajah. There were three elephants, one called a white one which I did not discover till I was told of it. He is really little known and a little different from the common elephants.

  In the evening I went through the pettah. The first street seems entirely inhabited by Brahmins. It is clean and the people seem comfortable considering that at the siege of Seringapatam there was not an inhabitant. It is now well peopled.

  The tents are placed near a tank near the gate of the fort. The difference in the climate between this place and Seringapatam is very great. We had a fine shower and it was cool and pleasant like Bangalore.

  We are going this morning at 10 o’clock to the Rajah and the Ranee. Colonel Close told me what might be done concerning presents from me and said that the Rajah would do as he directed but was afraid the Ranee wished to be too magnificent. When I saw Bucherow I thought it better to mention the pictures as the most valuable things we could receive and Captain Brown explained to him afterwards the impossibility of my receiving anything which I desired … As I understood there were diamonds and all sorts of things prepared. It is so settled and I go with my shawls and my dresses today, which I believe they are to give in their turn. This, Colonel Close said, was what would be right and I shall have my conscience quite clear of all bribery.

  I have expected to hear from you every day and that you would send me my letters again.

  We stay tomorrow and shall be in three days at Guzelhutty Pass. That is on the 17th. Whenever you do write it had better now be by the Trichinopoly post or by Salem. The town Mayor … goes with us to the pass where we meet Major Macleod.

  We are all well. There was a violent storm of rain while we were on our visit, which they say is a very lucky event. The girls desire their loves to you and intend writing. Pray return all my letters.

  Adieu, my dear lord,

  ever your very affectionate

  H. A. C.

  The travellers went on August 12th to see the young Hindu Prince, Rajah Krishna Wodeyar. His grandmother was also present wrapped up in a yellow shawl with only her head to be seen – not even a hand or arm – while every now and then one of her slaves put a bit of betel in her mouth. She had a pair of earrings of red leather in the holes of her ears.

  Tipu always left one of the offspring of the Mysore Rajah’s family alive, as a hold on the country; but when successors were born, only one was allowed to survive. The present prince was not known about by the English government, until during the siege of Seringapatam. He was found in a wretched damp stable in the care of his old grandmother, and a brother of his deceased mother.

  August 12th, Henrietta’s journal

  This morning for my visit to the Rajah and Ranee, I set out in great form at 10 o’clock. The street from the entrance of the fort was lined with matchlock men and sepoys not very miltary in their dress, but stout looking men. There was a convivial mix of red jackets faced with red (like lancers) and blue Hindu turbans. At the first building I was met by Bucherow and opposite the palace were drawn up the sepoy guardsmen commanded by English officers. They saluted in great form and I was carried up the first flight of steps and getting out of my palanquin went through another hall or colonnade into that where the Rajah was sitting. It is built exactly as the old Mysore palace at Seringapatam and not yet finished. The doors are ornaments with carved ivory like that palace.

  The Rajah was sitting on an ivory throne that belonged to the ancient Rajahs and is seven hundred years old. It is carved in strange shapes and painted with small flowers. The Rajah is a fine boy, six years old. He was dressed very magnificently in a silver dress with many ornaments, some very fine and diamonds and fine pearls hanging to the ornament on his neck with several hanging on his shoulders. He had the usual Hindu earrings and above them the pearl drops fastened in a small gold ring through the upper part of the ear. He asked several questions and seemed very much inclined to be merry if his dignity would have allowed him after the usual ceremonies of betel and rose water and my presenting shawls and a dress, which he returned.

  All the men were sent away in order that the Ranee might come in. There was a party of dancing girls and singers performing while I sat there and a great many spectators. He has a few Sepoy boys kept there who placed a sort of couch consisting of a large cushion of scarlet and gold embroidered with a back like an old fashioned chair where the Ranee was to sit and a chair covered with an embroidered cloth for me. The Ranee came in with many attendants and is one of the fattest and most battered women I almost ever saw. She has a very sensible countenance, a good deal of animation. The widows of his kin were seated opposite to me. Some of them were very handsome and not very dark and all appear to be young. I asked to have the Ranee’s picture and she consented and it is all settled. Signora A is to go tomorrow morning. I went through the same ceremony of betel and shawls and then my visit ended.

  While I was there a violent storm of rain came on, which they said would be supposed to be very fortunate. It was impossible not to see with pleasure an unfortunate family restored to the life of which they had been cruelly deprived. During the life of Haidar, the Rajah was once or twice a year brought before the people. Tipu discontinued that … The Rajah was thin and with the appearance of being starved when he was first restored. He is now well and looks very healthy.

  The whole of my visit lasted two hours and I was much amused by it never having seen anything of that sort before.

  In the evening went to see the fort began by Tipu. It is of considerable extent. There is an inner fort, which it is supposed was intended for his palace. It is now in ruins. When the present Rajah was first seated on the throne, he lived in a mud building in this place, which has not now the appearance of having ever been a royal residence.

  August 13th, Henrietta to Lord Clive

  This morning Purneah’s brother came to take leave of me and passed through the usual ceremonies of betel and shawls. I found that the Ranee had expressed a wish to see me when Signora Anna went to draw her picture and that of the Rajah. Therefore I sent a message offering to go there this evening, which was accepted. We came into the same hall where I had seen the Rajah. She came in soon after and sat down as she had done the day before. One of the dancing girls was called to interpret between us. She expressed much happiness that the war was over and the power and care of the English and hoped that they would always be friends. She wished much to see Lord Clive, but as that was impossible was very glad to have seen me. She said she had suffered a great deal from Tipu but was in hopes that all her miseries were now over. I showed her the pictures of my children [oval pastels by Anna Tonelli] with which she seemed much pleased.

  The Rajah came in and sat down by her. After sometime she went away and the Rajah was carried to his throne which was not the same I had seen the day before but of red velvet with a very handsome gold lace and with cushions given to him by Colonel Wellesley but ori
ginally by the King of France to Tipu. The dancing girls performed and in about half an hour I came away. The Rajah sits every evening in this way and all the principal people come and make their salaam to him. We sat as we had done before on one side and Bucherow opposite. Each time that I was with the Rajah, there was a violent storm of rain, which they say will give people a great idea of my good luck and the good that is to happen to the country.

  Travelling through the Guzelhutty Pass into Coimbatoor Country: August 14th to September 8th

  ‘We heard many peacocks in the wood but saw neither elephants nor any wild beasts except the real inhabitants who are as near savages and some of Captain Cook’s drawings than anything I ever saw.’

  August 14th, Nunjengood, Henrietta to Lord Clive

  Left Mysore at 6 in the morning and passed through the most beautiful and fertile country that I have seen in Asia. There are woods, many tanks and the whole surrounded by distant hills. I have never been so much pleased as with this morning’s drive. I came to a pretty village near the River Kaprone and presently after to the bridge. It consists of fifty-four narrow gothic arches. The supports are about six feet thick … The river is very rapid. It is paved and shaped, as our best English roads are made, covered with drains on each side to carry off the rainwater. From the centre of it the view is very charming. Below there is a view of a large pagoda rimmed with trees and the river winding near it. The other side is a pretty view up to a small hill not unlike an English common. The tents were placed at some distance from the bank but we removed them and it was one of the most beautiful and cheerful scenes I have met with. There is a small island between the encampment and the rivers joined near where my tent was placed.