Birds of Passage

by Henrietta Clive

  Colonel Macalister says that when his regiment heard of our coming they came in a body to him (the black officers I mean) and desired, he said, to express to me and desired me to communicate to you the thanks and gratitude they feel for the increase of pay from you. They are to come to me in form to be presented tomorrow morning. Major Macleod told me that two or three black officers from Errode came with him a few days before he met us and asked him by what means the increase had been made and by whose order. He said it was from the Government order. The Soubadar immediately answered with the greatest feeling in Moors, ‘May Almighty God bless him’. It is very pleasant to hear these things.

  I hear we have only one difficult pass to Poligaunteherry and a few tygers to meet with besides wild elephants, but I do not feel afraid of them. The road and country are much improved since we left the ghauts. It is now in its worst state being without rain. There is nothing soon they expect, and in October they say this country is like paradise. It is very flat except ridges of hills at a distance in a chain from the pass. Adieu. The girls send many loves to you. You are to receive letters soon, but constant travelling is an enemy to writing and we have had some long journeys.

  Ever, my dear Lord, yours very affectionately

  H. A. C.

  We have been here two years today. In two more I hope we shall all be gambling at Walcot –

  August 22nd, Henrietta’s journal

  I was to have seen the regiment Col Macalister’s unit (the 4th Regiment of Cavalry) but unfortunately we slept so well that it was too late when I was up for it.

  After breakfast the black officers came to salaam in form and desire me to say to Lord Clive that there had been many governors but none had thought of the real comfort and happiness of the people but himself, that now the army could live at ease and be certain of a provision if any accident befell them in service that they desired me to assure Lord Clive to their gratitude and thanks and that it was not merely the sentiments of that regiment but of the whole army. They then all salaamed again and went away.

  Major Macleod had assembled a great many shrofs to come and give the history of the coins given me by Mrs Gordon. The most ancient one of the God Ram struck by an expedition to Ceylon, which I shall add in another paper as it is too long for this book and many of them were named and the places where coined but a few were unknown to them. The coin represents Ram, his wife, his brothers and two generals who were of great service to him in his wars as well as Hanuman, the Monkey god. There are seven figures: the figure of the latter is on the reverse.

  In the evening I went into the barracks, which are clean and airy, and the arms in great order to the lines. The horses do not appear to me near so good as those of the body guard. Afterwards to Colonel Macalister’s new house. It is a very airy place. Just above his tope a violent shower came on and obliged us to go home.

  August 23rd This morning the 5th Regiment was drawn up on foot and marched by in form. They are all young and good-looking men and, considering that they have only been raised four months, in good order.

  A Brahmin desired to show some tricks and incongruities. He was an old man I should think of sixty years of age. First he placed the bamboo of a black man’s palanquin and raised it by degrees like it rested entirely on his chin. He walked in this astonishing manner. He afterwards tried the same with a straight bamboo, thirty-seven feet long and placed it upon a spike he held in his mouth. The wind had so much effect upon the top of the bamboo, which was as high as the roof of the house, that it over powered him. He did several other strange things: rubbing his arm with oil and scraping it off with a red hot bar.

  Mr Hurdis, speaking of the natives this morning, told me that those upon the hills, so far from being wild and savage as we imagine, are really the best of people in regard to payment of their rent. He was saying that he always gives them a written paper promising not to extort more than is just from them and requiring payment should be made on or before a particular day. He never receives any agreement from them and yet he never knew them a day beyond the time and almost always the money arrived before the day mentioned. He said the natives are tormented by the Nawab’s havildars. But he has never sent to them requiring money or pearls (which they had taken from merchants travelling from Manar) that they did not immediately restore them and even cash that had been stolen seven years ago is returned. He said if the Madura district belonged to us instead of the Nawab, all would be well.

  August 23rd, Coimbatoor, Henrietta to Lord Clive

  After much consultation with Mr Hurdis it is settled not to go to Paligautherry. There is little to be seen of any consequence other than jungle. The roads from thence to Annamalleecottah are there; one never travelled since Colonel Fullarton and all paddy ground. The second in the same way with the addition of Nayres who come down in troops and rob. The third is guarded for the preservation of travellers, but bad. Each road the damps are so great that Mr Hurdis says his people that have been obliged to stay have always returned ill. This being the case we go to Pollachee twenty-seven miles from hence and make that headquarters.

  From thence we shall go to Annamalecottah for the day and afterwards begin expeditions to any parts of the jungle. I hope to be able to collect both timber and seeds for you of the best black and red wood. He says that he is certain there is a variety of new and fine trees and plants in the jungle, but that he does not know anything. On that matter Brahmins assured Major Macleod yesterday.

  Adieu, my dear Lord,

  ever yours very affec

  H. A. C.

  On August 24th the travellers continued twelve miles to Canatacadavoo. There they found a pagoda, dedicated to Soobramanee (Soubrahmanya, a twelve-armed six-headed god of war, born in order to rid the world of the demon Taraka). The jungle was very thick and the thermometer was eighty degrees. Colonel Macalister gave them a cavalry escort for a few days as he felt rather suspicious of the intentions of some polygars, who might be tempted to make a descent and seize the travellers as hostages.

  August 24th, Henrietta’s journal

  Left Coimbatoor. About three miles from that place I crossed the Morel, a small river which separates the districts to Major Macleod and Mr Hurdis. The country improves considerably. There are mostly enclosures round each field and an appearance of verdure I have not seen before. The road is tolerably good and the journey was very pleasant. It is twelve miles to Canatacadavoo, a word meaning the skirts of the woods. It is at the beginning of the jungle and there are many tygers, bears and wild elephants.

  The village was destroyed by Tipu and Mr Hurdis despairs of its reviving from the neighbourhood of these beasts. It was market day. The people came ten or twelve miles from the different villages to buy and sell their goods. There is a pagoda upon a fine rock and some small choultries. After dinner, though it rained a little, I went to see it. It is belonging to Soubramanee who was there with a spear in his hand and a wife on each side. It was prettily lighted up … The pagoda is of the same gold as that at Pylney. We had several new creepers brought, mostly unknown. The havildar is to get some of the seeds for me.

  August 25th Came through a beautiful country to Pollachee. It very much resembles England. The fields are enclosed with hedges and crop in its early state is much like green wheat or barley. They fold the sheep and cattle with hurdles composed of straight boughs fitted together and I saw some strange inventions for the shepherd: to sleep in was a frame raised about a foot from the ground and covered with bamboos close together; for the sleeping place and over it a close arch of boughs, apparently well fixed together and able to resist the weather.

  The village is pleasantly situated. We are encamped in a cocoanut tope. In the morning the neighbouring polygars came to be presented to me. The first had the most horrible countenance I ever saw, though they were not any of them in actual friendship with Dhoondiah, they had all received from him and would probably have joined him. He wore his sword on the right side and had a dagger besides. The others were no
t so well dressed. They were four: two of not the best description; the others without swords or arms and better people.

  August 26th Went to Annamalecottah. The road is extremely beautiful and enclosed like England. The country all round gave the neatest prospect I have seen for a long time. The soil reddish and they plow deeper furrows that what I have hereto observed. At seven miles from Pollachee I crossed the river, which takes its rise from the mountains opposite. There are two cascades at a great distance but which form a part of the river. We crossed in basket boats. The river had risen considerably and I am afraid will prevent us from seeing the teak trees I so much wish to see. The rest of the way we went in palanquins and soon came to the jungle, which is perfectly delightful. The trees were bright green and the rain last night had made it perfectly cool and the continual moisture gives a verdure unknown in other places. The largest trees were either tamarind or banyan trees … but most of these I have seen about the ghauts.

  Annamalecottah is a small fort in ruins. After breakfast I went through a continuation of jungle to the rock of Tecknelodroogham. It is extremely difficult to ascend, the greatest part being of solid rock but not perfectly smooth. From the top, the view was really delightful. The thick wood reaches to the foot of the mountains and in two places there were small cascades near their top which form a part of the river crossed this morning. On the other side the country is perfectly cultivated with hedgerows and everything like Europe. Some paddy fields erupted which were green. The extent of view is very great. Paligautherry was to be seen beyond the jungle, but it is evident the place would not do to be inhabited by us.

  In returning I saw a tree with a new flower which Captain Brown brought me and which is said to be a parasitical plant. The flower is like a honeysuckle but tipped with green. It generally, if not always, is found on the tamarind trees. There are several other plants entirely new, which I brought home and Mr Hurdis has obtained their names and history with seeds, which are to be sent to me when we descend to the bottom of the hill.

  I omitted to mention that there were three men, perfectly savage in their appearance. The principal person had a cloth wrapt round his waist and a gold or brass necklace. His hair was long and his features much like the caffers at the Cape. Another old man came to salaam that was misery and wildness itself. There were two or three boys wrapt in lunghis, all looking equally savage. Mr Hurdis told me that they live entirely upon seeds and fruits with a buffalo, which they steal and kill now and then. They are dreaded thieves and generally rob and murder. Twenty-three of them a few months ago murdered six women and children. They waylay travellers of which I believe there are now very few and plunder them. Between this place and the camp I saw some more of these natives and their wives and children. The women had only a cloth round their waist like the men, but no other garment.

  The river had risen considerably since we set out. There was a view near the fort of the river with trees to its edge that put me in mind of Oakly Park and indeed the view is generally like what I have seen there from the top.

  August 27th I walked out in the morning. It was to be a quiet halting day, which we much wanted. It was hot and there was little to see about the place.

  27 August, Pollachee, Henrietta to Lord Clive

  I have been longer than usual without writing to you because I wished to tell you something of the teak trees which I was in hopes to have seen yesterday. We were the whole day at and near Annamalecottah but were unable to go towards the part among those trees. There is a severed arm of a rapid river we crossed yesterday and several ravines now filled with water which are such as William Hurdis says should unlikely prevent our getting on. I am very sorry for it. Yesterday we were in a jungle usually inhabited by wild elephants. Part of the road was made by Col Fullarton and though there were no large trees but the tamarind and Banyan yet they were very large and the journey for two or three miles was delightful with several small trees and shrubs that I have never seen. I have got boughs of them and the havildar is to get the seed of each of them for me.

  In regard to the conveyance of timber the only way William Hurdis says is from the spot by country conveyances to carry them to Darapooram and Amoor from thence they may be floated to the mouth of the Cauvery. He has had some carried to Darapooram for his own use, but he says that though the rivers are rapid in this country yet their rise and fall is so sudden that it would be impossible to send any rafts or timber down them. They are deep in some places and very rocky in others but in general shallow and rise and fall in the course of eight or ten hours which would not allow time enough for timber to get down. The many rocks would risk the timber ever arriving. The only time in which the Cauvery is sufficiently high is in the month of June and the timber should be ready at Caroor by that time. He will get the sizes of the trees as accurately as he can. He has no doubt, indeed knows, that there are a great variety of timber in these woods but their exact sort he does not yet know.

  From Annamalecottah we went to a small rock in appearance, Sanikulrogdroog, which has been fortified, but is not a very frequented place. The river is like glass and the other side a well-cultivated valley. We passed through the day before with hedges and such an appearance of plenty as was really delightful. The rock was so rough and steep that I persuaded the girls not to go to the top and I believe we had all as much as we could do to ascend and descend but we were not very much fatigued in the evening.

  I cannot say the pleasure I have had in seeing this country. It is fresh and luxuriant. The trees are beautiful. We heard many peacocks in the wood but saw neither elephants nor any wild beasts except the real inhabitants who are as near savages and some of Captain Cook’s§ drawings than anything I ever saw. I never saw such a set of people in my life.

  The day before yesterday the polygars in the neighbourhood came to make their salaam to me. One of them was the most horrible looking old monster and William Hurdis says is not much better than he looks. There were five altogether: two of the young polygars whose uncles came as their representatives came here today. They are fine looking boys. Tomorrow we go to Pylney, where we halt a day, and from thence to Darapooram. I hope to have, while we are hereabouts, some specimens of the cardamom, pepper and cinnamon trees growing on the hills. I should like to see the wood of the first. We are all well and much pleased with this part of the journey. The Coimbatoor disappointed me till we quitted the capital and it will again grow dismal in a day or two. It is not hot. We have had a good deal of rain, which occasioned the river to swell considerably between our passing and returning yesterday.

  Adieu. The girls are well and very busy

  writing to England, which I ought to be, too.

  Ever, my dear Lord, yours affectionately

  H. A. C.

  I have sent, at least I believe it will go, some cuttings of a very curious sort of mistletoe with a beautiful flower. Pray have it grafted directly upon a tamarind tree. It will not grow in the ground and is really well worth preserving. I shall endeavour to get more but I doubt my success. Pray let it be done the moment you receive it.

  August 28th, Henrietta’s journal

  Left Pollachee and its trees and cool breezes and came to Oudmalcottah, a dreary sandy place without a tree. The road was tedious and ugly. The Queen of Delhi, a polygaress of the neighbourhood came with others. She is about sixty years of age. Mr Hurdis told me a very active, positive old woman who keeps her district in great subjection, but does not exactly pay her rent. She is supposed to be rather well disposed to the polygar of Verapache who was raising and did send the detachment to join Dhoondiah, which was discovered by Major Macleod. Several other polygars came also. They are all of low caste and wear earrings in the upper part of one ear, a proof of their having been menial servants at least their forefathers to the Kings of Madura. The Queen is of the lowest caste of the Connanies.

  On August 28th some polygars and the Queen of Delhi (a village so called) strewed the travellers’ feet with little bits of gold and silver
paper as a token of respect. Charly’s journal relates an account of a polygar having given her a beautiful young gazelle that was quite tame. It became attached to her, travelling in her palanquin and sleeping by her bedside. Returning from an early morning outing after being back in Madras, Charly found the gazelle lying dead in front of the house. Unattended it had lept from a verandah at the top of the house to the grass below. Charly grieved the loss of the gazelle.

  August 28th, Henrietta’s journal

  The Verapachy polygar having behaved ill and being the person who raised soldiers for Dhoondiah and all correspondence having ceased between him and Mr Hurdis, it was not thought prudent for me to pass through his country to Dindigal. From some reports when we were at Pylney we heard that he had increased his number of troops and peons and was cleaning his roads; whether to receive me was a doubt. The nights I was at Pylney it was for several reasons thought right to double the guard round the tents and to have everything ready in case he should come. However, I heard nothing more of him.

  August 29th, Henrietta to Lord Clive

  We left all our pretty country and our trees behind us yesterday and have had two dreary marches with much dust and wind. No more rain but a good deal of heat. We have calculated the probable progress of our journey which at the shortest and without more than the necessary halting days. By all accounts we shall be at Madras not before the 11th October. It is a long while to fix, but it is really as soon as it can be done. We are all well.

  Tomorrow we halt or rather the day after at Pylney and then go directly to Darapooram. It is sad to see the difference of the country and the weather in these few miles and we are still near hills. I hear we are not to be much more amused with prospects as we approach the Cauvery. William Hurdis will try to float some timber down to see what can be done about your teak trees and let you know the event. I have several specimens of trees whose appearance are quite unknown to me and I am to have the seeds.