Birds of Passage

by Henrietta Clive

  The night was moonlit and they returned by boat to the pandal which had been illuminated for them.

  September 24th Came through the most beautiful and rich country I ever saw by the side of the Cauvery … The multitude of villages and inhabitants was quite extraordinary being nearly lined with people. We scarcely lost sight of one set when another appeared. In short, it is impossible to inquire the population. The country is covered with rice and even the banks of the fields are sown with dry grain in certain distances are double sluices from the Cauvery to distribute the water and everything has such an appearance of being fertile that it is impossible to express the pleasure it gave me. The cocoanut topes with banyan and other trees are dispersed about and the whole has the appearance of a garden.

  At this place Mr Harris the Collector met me. He had prepared a real house for me consisting of a fine gallery and two good bedchambers and, of course, nut leaves and thatched. The inside was ornamented with cloth of different colours beautifully arranged by a black man. Ten days before it was an uncultivated jungle. It was on the bank of the river and was really delightful. In the evening I went across to see the village. It is the largest in the Tanjore country and was once the residence of the Rajahs. There are some fine pagodas, one lately repaired and painted with a variety of colours, but the sculpture was such that I was told it would not do to be seen. I went to a large tank round which there are many small choultries illuminated at night which mixed with the cocoanut trees etc. had a very pretty effect. One curiosity I met with there, a cocoanut tree with two heads which is very uncommon. After passing through the town I went down the river about a mile in a boat to Mr Harris’s house. The night was moonlit and we returned by boat to our pandal. This place once was extremely rich till it was plundered by Haidar. He committed many depredations upon the Brahmin’s to force them to give up their treasure. He even killed some of their holy cows and placed them under their bleeding bodies that the blood might drop into the eyes and mouths of the Brahmins till they discovered all their treasure. It is now recovering fast and will soon recover its former splendour.

  At the end of the evening under a full moon the travellers glided down the river looking at an illuminated riverbank where, according to Charly, there were six pagodas whose lights ‘floating at their base had a brilliant effect’. Their pandal had been illuminated as well.

  September 24th, Henrietta’s journal

  The news of Dhoondiah’s death and Colonel Wellesley’s victory came to us.

  September 25th This morning I went to the different silk weavers and saw some very pretty silk cloths, some of which I intend to have made for myself. There are several very different from what I had seen at Bangalore. One particular of brown muslin with a very handsome gold border which is the same as the Rajah’s wives wore. The houses are larger and much cleaner. It was hot early, more so than yesterday. The therm was at 86.

  In the evening I drove off for an hour and returned to see some very beautiful fireworks. The country is everywhere delightful. This day before dinner the chief attendant on the deposed Rajah, whose name is Ameer Sing, came with fruit and flowers and a very civil message. I never saw fireworks better accented or better dancing girls. They were magnificently dressed and the four first performers from Tanjore were really very graceful in their manner not withstanding their strange dances. Mr Harris has prevailed on them to leave off their tomtoms and to dance to a country pipe which with a jew’s harp and a guitar composed the band. The second set of dancers were more violent, particularly one who appeared as if she could have knocked down the whole company.

  September 26th, Combaconum, Henrietta to Lord Clive

  I quite forgot to tell you that when the Rajah sent his cattle to visit me Mr Torin told that if you wished to have any of them the Rajah desires I would take as many as I pleased as he had many of them. They are so beautiful that I answered for you that you would be much pleased with them and Mr Torin chose a large gentleman and two ladies of the first size and age and a second set of ladies about half grown. Besides those, the Rajah desired to send some of the small ones to the girls in his own name. They are little beauties and have just passed by on their road to Madras … The Rajah’s answer to Mr Blackburn’s message from you I have got but by a mistake they have carried away my writing box. I thought it as well Mr Blackburn should write down what he said as I might make some jumble.

  Mr Harris has taken great pains to make us comfortable and to answer us. We had last night the best fireworks and dancing girls I have ever seen. The night before we floated down the Cauvery from the town by moonlight and tonight we go the whole stage instead of having done it in the morning in a boat with an awning and though it is sure the water is nothing: up to a man’s chin in the deepest place or you may suppose I should not have hazarded by boats upon the water. Charlotte is perfectly well and in excellent spirits. I wish I could keep her just so till you see her. Harriet is in perfect health. I have a little fear of Charlotte about the 7th of next month. We shall then be at Cuddalore as it is our halting day there. We hear flying reports that you are coming but I do not hear it yet from you. I should like much to see you again I assure you.

  The day before yesterday we had the account of Colonel Wellesley’s victory over Dhoondiah from Trichinopoly. The particulars are not yet arrived.

  Adieu. This is a charming place.

  Ever, my dear Lord,

  yours very affectionately

  H. A. C.

  On September 26th the entertainment continued; the hosts carefully adhered to that which they deemed to be appropriate for British females. After an early dinner, the travellers went down the Cauvery in a boat, covered with a pretty pandal. It was pleasant and cool. When they passed by the village, the water was so shallow, that the villagers brought them fruit and flowers as they drifted along. Afterwards they got into their palanquins, and went on to Cadra Munglum, where they found their tents pitched, and a very nice choultry. It rained hard during the night.

  September 26th, Henrietta’s journal

  As this was our idle morning I did not go out till just before breakfast when some very good tumblers, belonging to the Rajah, made their appearance. They did several very extraordinary things, which appeared almost incredible. One set raised a pillar like the mast of a ship and after many turnings and strange postures threw himself from the top of this mast (forty-two and one half feet high) to the ground which was made soft by being dried up a good deal. Another fastened himself upon his stomach to the top of a pole almost as high as the other and turned round with the greatest velocity, contracting his legs and arms for a long time. A woman did the same to my great astonishment.

  This evening I quitted Combaconum and intended going by water all the way to Cadra Munglum. A small squall came on soon after we set out which deranged us a good deal and made us wet. The awning was obliged to be taken down. The boat was large and with a deck on which we sat in great comfort from a little after four till past seven when the shoals of sand increased a good deal and the length of the voyage being too much I left the boat and proceeded in my palanquin. As the road by land, so was that by water. Dined with people who brought fruit and flowers. Amongst the rest, the chief man from Ameer Sing, with a variety of both. Another excellent pandal was ready here where I slept, but unfortunately a violent storm of rain came on and a good deal of it came through the walls into my room.

  September 27th The road was very indifferent at first owing to its being new and the storm has made it very wet and deep. I was obliged to leave the bandy and go in the palanquin to Col Dyrie’s encampment where I breakfasted. The line was drawn all when I passed consisting of some detachments of sepoys and 2 companies of the 19th Foot. Came to Mayaveram. The Cauvery runs through the town, and it is fordable everywhere. The tope was so close that we quitted it and went into a large choultry once the palace of the Rajahs.

  It was very hot and a violent storm of rain did not cool it much but laid the dust in the evening. I w
ent to see the town and, as it was the great dussera feast, there was a palanquin as the god goes a hunting. He came opposite to the choultry with a great many lights, dancing girls etc and stopped there for some time for us to see him. We saw them taking three gods out on horseback. The crowd and the reflection of the lights in the river were very pretty.

  September 28th Came through a more wild road and country but still very pretty. The trees scattered at times like a park. Came to Annacampettah where there was a good veranda much before the choultry. It was very hot in the tents and the thermometer was at 91 in them and at 87 under the pandal. After dinner I went to see a cart that had been purposely put in the mud that the elephants might pull them out with their trunks. They followed the cart and at first pulled it, but on being spoken to by the drivers they pushed the wheel with their trunks and lifted the cart entirely out of the mud. Afterwards I went to one of the largest spreading banyan trees I have ever seen. The diameter was forty paces. At night there was an immense scorpion found near the veranda.

  September 28th, near Tranquebar, Henrietta to Lord Clive

  We are within five miles of Tranquebar and shall go there tomorrow. Charlotte is not quite so well as for several days past. It seems like a little bile which Hausman thinks a little rhubarb will remove and which she will take presently. It is hot but we have a sea breeze and it is very comfortable. Yesterday we were at Myaveram in a large choultry and tolerably cool there. I have great hopes the sea will do us all good, particularly Charlotte. It is a most charming country. We breakfasted yesterday with Col Dyrie at his camp on our road to Myaveram.

  Have you received any lemons from Mr Hurdis, which he sent about the 12th to you? Do you like the trees he sent? I have just heard that he has sent some more down of which he has sent me the list. He believes them to be of good sorts and wishes them to be tried. Pray let great care be taken of the Malabar names (tied to them) when they are planted. I have specimens of some of them, which I shall show to Dr Rotthem. Captain Brown is just gone to Tranquebar and returns tonight to settle all about us as there is a dislike we hear to any troops going into the fort in which case if he offers his house Brown thinks we had better remain in our tents as we do not choose to be without my friends the bodyguard.

  I shall write to you from Tranquebar. I enclose you what the Rajah said which I desired Mr Blackburn to write down as he gave it in Mahratra to your message, which I had sent on with the baggage by mistake.

  Adieu. Charlotte desires her love to you and says she shall write soon to you which I think if it is not very soon will not be in time at least I hope so –

  Adieu,

  my dear Lord.

  Ever your very affectionate

  H. A. C.

  * C. F. Schwartz, who founded a mission in Tanjore, educated Rajah Sarboji and helped him regain his throne.

  † Great warrior

  ‡ Anna Tonelli later completed her portrait of the Rajah of Tanjore, Rajah Sarbhoji, and after her return to England in 1801, sent it to Lord Clive at Madras.

  § Tondiman, the head of the polygar chiefs, wished to give a present of jewels to Henrietta, but she had him informed that neither members of the Government, nor their families, could accept such offerings.

  Tranquebar: September 29th to October 1st

  ‘In the evening I went round the ramparts. They are very near the sea, which gains every year ground from the town.’

  On September 29th General Anker’s two aides-de-camp came to meet the travellers. Together they crossed the river, and went to Tranquebar, the Danish settlement, and breakfasted with General Anker, a most gentleman-like and pleasing person who received them most kindly at his country house. They went into the town afterwards and were received with great form, a salute being fired from the batteries. After dinner they went round the fort and the town’s handsome principal street. September 30th: In the evening they went to a ball given by Colonel Meldorf and found him, according to Charly, ‘a perfect specimen of old fashioned civility’. Being Commander of the Fort, his dress was military, and Charly delighted in the fact that he had ‘immense red rosettes upon his shoes’. Some of the Danish missionaries came to see them whom Charly described as ‘excellent people, but do little in the way of conversation, though their piety, humility, and charity, make them universally respected’.

  September 29th, Henrietta’s journal

  Came to General Anker’s Garden House, then from the fort he came to meet me at the ford and carried us in his boat to his garden. It is a very pretty place on the bank of the river with walls and a great many of the large lilies growing high upon their stems. After breakfast I went to the fort passing by a good many well looking houses and almost through an avenue the whole way. I was received in great form with cannon which diverted me much. The general’s house is very pleasant and he gave up the greatest part of it to me … and he has covered the sides and had an artificial portico of leaves which had a very pretty effect and took off the great glare of light. The house is painted green and is very comfortable. In my room where I sat, there is a picture of the late Queen of Denmark and her two children. She is very like the King. In the evening I went round the ramparts. They are very near the sea, which gains every year ground from the town. I went up to the top of the house where we sat in a pleasant evening air till driven down by a storm. The General gave me such an account of Norway that I almost long to go there.

  September 30th, Tranquebar, Henrietta to Lord Clive

  General Anker … is quite like an Englishman and very pleasant. The place is much diminished in its curiosities, however. I have passed three hours with Dr Rotthem seeing shrubs, fishes and dried plants all in great order. Tomorrow we see the birds, beetle and butterflies and set out in the evening again a little stage of eight miles.

  Charlotte took physic today. The little dose the day before yesterday was not quite enough but it is difficult to persuade Dr Hausman how little she requires. Therefore she is rather tired with it today, but will, I have no doubt, brighten up after dinner. If she is not strong tomorrow we will stay another day. The house is very tolerably cool though we had no sea breeze yesterday and we have good rooms. The General is most extremely civil. He reviewed the bodyguard this morning, having never seen the sword exercises which indeed they did in great perfection.

  I am anxious to keep Charlotte well and stout and to strengthen her before the next time but some medicine was really necessary. Her spirits were excellent before this little bilious attack and are tolerable now, though not at their highest pitch. I shall be very glad to get her to you again. I feel so much anxiety in the change of this little soul. We hear everywhere that you are coming to meet us. At Tanjore they said you were to come there. But I do not yet hear it from you. I have seen some plants of wood here from Sumatra, the most beautiful that can be found. I sent you a very amusing letter from Captain Malcolm, which is just arrived. Charly is sitting with me and desires her love to you. I have a bad cold.

  Good morning to you, my dear Lord.

  Ever your very affectionate

  H. A. C.

  September 30th, Henrietta’s journal

  General Anker having expressed a wish to see the Second at ten o’clock we went out to see the bodyguard perform it on foot and on horseback which they did with very great precision. After breakfast I saw an old French officer from Pondicherry and went to see Dr John’s collection of shells, fishes and a very handsome Mackaw. He showed me several books of shells, fishes and animals, the titles of which he is to give me, and some of his drawings of new fishes. I have many more shells than he has and duplicates of his most valuable ones. Afterwards I went to Dr Rotthem to see his herbarium, which contains 4,000 specimens of plants. Tomorrow I am to see birds, butterflies at Dr John’s and in the evening I went to Dr Rotthem’s garden where there are many curious plants and trees, but they are dispersed under the cocoanut trees and it was so late that it was scarcely possible to see them.

  Afterwards I went to a ball gi
ven by Colonel Fiel’s officers where I saw all the principal ladies of the place. There were very few that were well looking. Those were French from Pondicherry and they were all very ill dressed. Harriet danced and was much pleased with it. Charlotte not having been well stayed a very short time. I stayed till eleven o’clock. The heat of the night and mosquitoes were intolerable.

  October 1st I went to see Dr John’s collection of butterflies, which are very beautiful. Some of them, which I had never seen, had wings of the brightest purple. His insects are also very good. Some from the Isle de France are very rare. Dr Klien’s birds are not so curious as I expected nor dried in a most complete manner than those hastily done by Dr Hyzer and sent to Ryacottha, except one, a white and black with a long tail which I remember to have seen in Edward’s book of birds. Dr Rotthem thinks the plants of cinnamon &c. that I brought from the Daraporam country will not be of any use either there or in the Carnatic. He disliked most of those I brought from the Annamallee Woods. I have desired him to get for me a collection of insects, butterflies and birds packed properly to be sent to England.