Passione Celeste

by Mark Pritchard

  Having completed Land’s End to John O’Groats in 2015 my thoughts had turned to riding across America in 2017 as a sort of sixtieth birthday present to myself. This however would be a major undertaking and one which would not be cheap. Whilst not completely ruling it out I started to think about other ways to mark my sixth decade. And I started to think about the possibility of completing sixty centuries, one for each year of my life. I’m not entirely sure when this possibility or notion became something more tangible but I’m guessing that drinking beer may have been involved!

  The biggest motivator for me when I ride is to enjoy myself. I always say that, tiredness aside, when I finish a ride if I feel that I’d like to do another one then it’s been a good ride. The day I stop enjoying myself is the day I probably stop riding. That doesn’t mean I’m a masochist who enjoys riding in extreme weather or on extreme terrain. Quite the opposite. But for me, a good ride always leaves me wanting more.

  Having spent most of my working life chasing deadlines and targets, the last thing I wanted to do was to end up riding solely to achieve a number. Consequently, I decided to ride as many centuries as I could, without pursuing a rigid and potentially all-consuming target. If anyone asked me, I said that I was quite relaxed about completing some of them after my sixtieth birthday. I also wanted to revisit some of the places in Britain where I have previously lived, and ride at least one century there. The most important consideration wherever, whenever and however, was to enjoy myself and have some fun.

  Monday 25 January 2016, 102 Miles

  Riding in the Shire with a Few Glimpses of Mordor (C#1)

  Well, I rode my first century of the year today: 102 miles from home through Thetford Forest from south to north and then back home on more local roads with a few diversions to make sure that I crossed the 100 mile threshold. Much of the route was on a fairly regular circuit for me so I decided to break some new ground and ride through Brandon to Mundford; normally I ride round the edge of Brandon and through Santon Downham where I used to work in the early 1990s.

  The new part of the route offered me a few distant glimpses of the Fens, which at this time of year are a pretty bleak place. I found myself thinking of Mordor, from Tolkien’s Lord of the Rings. If the Fens in January are Mordor, then the rest of the ride was very much a tour of the Shire, albeit a Shire in full winter hibernation. Today was also the first reasonably sunny day of the year, made slightly less cold by a south-west wind.

  This was a ride of many contrasts: mature forests, fens, heaths, farmland bearing the scars of the sugar beet harvest and supporting the seemingly exploding pig rearing industry. Although this wasn’t a bad day, winter, unless it’s bright sunshine with crisp air, is definitely not my favourite season.

  Monday 29 February 2016, 109 Miles

  A Century Ride Through Four Counties (C#2)

  Saved by a leap year! Like all the best-laid plans mine nearly came to an early end. My goal at this stage was to ride one century in each month of the year. For one reason or another, coupled with some pretty unpleasant February weather, I hadn’t managed to ride a century this month. But 29 February was a lovely sunny, if rather cold, day so I was on the Impulso as soon as the morning frost had thawed.

  My original plan was to ride one of my standard routes at around 80 miles and then chuck in a loop at the end to take the mileage over the one hundred mark. So I set off heading south-west towards Lavenham and then on to Long Melford. Leaving Long Melford for Clare I noticed an Essex county threshold sign which got me thinking. I stopped to take a photo and wondered: how about riding the four counties of East Anglia? My standard route would certainly take me through Essex and into Cambridgeshire and I had already been riding in Suffolk. That just left Norfolk.

  So that became the goal. Within a few miles I was out of Essex and back in Suffolk, and then as I was heading towards Newmarket up popped the Cambridgeshire sign. Three out of four counties, and I was only about a third of the way round. Approaching Newmarket I turned north into a landscape that defines this part of East Anglia. This was horse racing country and the landscape oozes intensive management and money. Stables and stud farms abound, with their network of rich grassy paddocks and double-fenced fields. This relatively small corner of East Anglia is quite unlike anywhere else I know.

  As I left horse country behind me I eventually dropped down to sea level onto the Fens. This part of the region is totally dominated, for now at least, by the US Air Force with the large bases of Mildenhall and Lakenheath. It’s almost like being in Little America; three-quarters of the cars are American models. As road users I can report that they are no more or no less sympathetic to cyclists than British drivers. Arguably, with left-hand-drive cars approaching from behind they should give you marginally more space. But they don’t tend to slow down or wait for a gap in the oncoming traffic, so there were the usual number of close shaves.

  Reaching the River Little Ouse I spied a Norfolk sign. I crossed my final frontier at the RSPB Lakenheath Fen Nature Reserve. Something was going on there because there seemed to be quite a few twitchers all looking intently through their binoculars at something. Nobody was near me so I couldn’t find out any more. Then it was a U-turn back through Brandon and into my home county of Suffolk, and a steady 20 miles back home. What started out as one ride turned into something rather different. That, readers, is one of the joys of cycling.

  Wednesday 23 March 2016, 110 Miles

  To the Seaside for Coffee and a Doughnut (C#3)

  One of my favourite rides is to the Suffolk coast at Orford. And the best bit is stopping for a coffee and doughnut at the Pump Street Bakery. The doughnuts are world famous, having been mentioned at the 2015 Oscars. In case you’re wondering what I am on about, here’s the story.

  Mat Kirkby, a local film director, won an Oscar for the best live action short for The Phone Call, starring Sally Hawkins and Jim Broadbent. He’s a regular at the bakery’s café and the doughnuts are a particular favourite. Rumour has it that Mat actually wrote some of the film script while visiting the bakery. The owner, Joanna Brennan, promised Mat a free doughnut if he won an Oscar. In his acceptance speech Mat credited the bakery as one of his inspirations. And the media ran away with the story, giving the bakery worldwide fame.

  The doughnuts are freshly baked each day and are available with a choice of either rhubarb or raspberry jam. And very good they are too! So good that I usually buy two: one for me and one for my bike, of course! Anyway, that’s enough about doughnuts. Orford’s an interesting place which I will write a bit more about on another visit.

  Friday 25 March 2016, 103 Miles

  A Good Friday Ride on Good Friday (C#4)

  Today was one of my more routine rides which took me through much of Thetford Forest. Having worked there some years ago, I always enjoy coming back to see what’s going on from a forester’s perspective. And please be reassured, I don’t ride round singing ‘I’m a lumberjack and I’m OK…’ Those days are largely behind me now; the lumberjacking, I mean. I have been known to sing from time to time, usually after a quantity of alcohol has been consumed. Anyway, enough of this nonsense.

  Thetford Forest is an amazing place. I first went there in 1978 soon after I started working for the Forestry Commission. Then the focus was on commercial forestry, the growing of Corsican and Scots Pine to produce timber. About 300 people were directly employed by the Commission. There was even a mill in Brandon solely devoted to the production of pit props for the then National Coal Board. Producing timber for the mines was a strategic activity for the Commission. Most of the foresters were also keen conservationists and knew about the needs of some quite important and rare species, which they protected as part of their everyday work. Much of this went on quietly behind the scenes with little fanfare or recognition. Most foresters preferred to get on with the job rather than talk about it. The forest was open for people, mainly locals, to enjoy, and a
network of waymarked trails and modest car parks were provided. From time to time, special events – guided walks to see deer for example ‒ were laid on. It was all pretty low-key and informal, though.

  Today, the situation is very different. Timber production is still a key activity and generates valuable income for the Commission. But the forest is now much more than a simple wood factory. It is internationally recognised as a habitat of great importance, supporting many rare and endangered species. Conserving and enhancing the environment is often the starting point from which decisions about timber production are made, as opposed to the other way round. Perhaps the most significant and visible change has been an explosion in the development of the forest as a place for people to visit and enjoy. Opportunities for quiet walks and picnics are still available aplenty. But now the forest hosts a huge range of other activities for people, locally and from further afield, to enjoy. One of the most significant activities has been the rise in the popularity of cycling. A rich network of cycle trails enables everyone, from families looking for traffic-free riding to mountain bikers seeking highly technical and challenging riding, to enjoy themselves.

  As I ride through the forest I see the trees but I see and hear much more too. The buzz of a chainsaw, the cry of a bird, or the laughter of a family all set against the swish of my tyres on the tarmac, invariably brings a smile to my face. Long may it continue.

  Wednesday 30 March 2016, 101 miles

  Crinkle Crankle Search in the Wind (C#5)

  The choice of my route today was dictated by two things: the wind direction and the search for a crinkle crankle wall. So I headed out for the Waveney Valley towards Bungay and then Halesworth. With a south-westerly wind I made good time and reached Bungay (35 miles) in under two hours. My hope was that as I eventually turned westwards for home, the wind would ease as the weather forecast hinted.

  I’m not sure what set me on the search for a crinkle crankle wall; I think I may have read something in the local newspaper. A search on the Interweb uncovered a whole industry seemingly devoted to the subject. I discovered that Suffolk has more than double the number (50) of crinkle crankle walls than the rest of England. Now, I imagine that some of you might be wondering what on earth is a crinkle crankle wall. Let me explain.

  In simple terms, a crinkle crankle is a wavy or zig-zag wall. Their chief advantage, apart from looking nice, is that they can be made just one brick thick. Build a straight wall one brick thick and the chances are that without buttressing it will fall over fairly soon. The curves of the crinkle crankle provide strength and use far fewer bricks.

  It is thought that in Britain they first appeared in the mid-seventeenth century when Dutch engineers were employed to drain the fens. In the Netherlands the design is called slange muur (snaking wall). Further afield, Thomas Jefferson constructed a crinkle crankle at the University of Virginia, enjoying both its aesthetic and economic benefits.

  Leaving Halesworth I rode south to the village of Bramfield where I’d heard there was another good wall to be seen. And I was not disappointed. Getting here involved a slight deviation from my usual route so I had the added pleasure of enjoying some new lanes and some new views. Having a specific object or place to aim for on a ride adds interest, so I’m going to see if I can find some more crinkle crankles over the coming months. Apparently there’s a particularly good example in the village of Easton near Wickham Market. That’s for another day.

  Oh, I almost forgot! The wind did ease, so I had an easy ride home.

  Saturday 2 April 2016, 107 miles

  The Rather Long and (Not Very) Winding Road (C#6)

  A lovely sunny day today led me north into the middle of Norfolk. Once I leave Watton I usually enjoy a sense of the new. Getting to Watton involves riding through countryside that I visit regularly. This means that the roads closer to home are much more familiar to me. Not that they’re boring; quite the opposite, because I enjoy seeing how things change over time, in the different seasons of the year, or perhaps as someone’s house building project develops. I am rarely short of enjoyment, entertainment and interest. But getting further afield provides new experiences.

  Today’s first landmark came as I approached a wind farm just south-east of Swaffham. The road passes almost directly underneath one of the turbines, and the shadow of its blades played across the tarmac. The swooshing sound of the slowly turning blades is very distinctive. These are very large objects indeed, though I am told by those in the know that compared to the turbine farms in the North Sea they are not that big after all. Well, as I posed my bike for a photo, they seemed pretty big to me. I wondered where the electricity they generate goes to.

  Passing through Swaffham I headed north-west towards the valley of the River Nar. That sounds like the title of a good book or film – ‘Into the Valley of the Nar’ – hmmm. Has an idea just been born? Probably not, so I’ll stick to what I know about. The defining features of this part of the ride are long, straight roads. Many date back to Roman times. The countryside here is quite rolling so the straightness isn’t immediately apparent. But a glance at the map tells a different story.

  Arriving at West Acre, one of the places of note is the theatre. It’s located in a converted chapel with a studio seating 80 people. It hosts a range of in-house productions, visiting companies, concerts, workshops and other events. Their summer season, from May to August, has been running since 1990. Audiences are drawn from across East Anglia and beyond. The theatre company has won widespread acclaim and quite a few awards. Its patrons are Stephen Fry and Sir Anthony Gormley, so this is indeed a serious establishment. The parallel charitable foundation is dedicated to developing community participation in the performing arts and the involvement of young people. I always enjoy seeing how communities develop successful, distinctive and creative ways of enriching their lives.

  Sunday 3 April 2016, 103 miles

  Exploring Some East Cambridgeshire Lanes (C#7)

  Two centuries on consecutive days: that’s a first, I think! After yesterday’s outing to Norfolk I decided to go in completely the opposite direction and ride over to East Cambridgeshire. My goal was to explore some lanes south of Newmarket and north of Haverhill that I hadn’t ridden before. And with good sunshine all was set for a thoroughly enjoyable outing. However, I had something of a false start as I suffered a rear wheel puncture after riding only 6 miles. Fortunately, there was a handy car pub car park so I stopped there, removed the punctured inner tube and replaced it with a fresh one. And about 10 minutes later I was under way again.

  I rode to the west of Newmarket and then on almost to the outskirts of Cambridge before turning east and crossing over the A14 and A11. This is gently rolling country with an underlying geology of chalk. A glance at a geological map shows that the chalk is an extension of that found in the Chilterns and it extends northwards past the Wash into Lincolnshire and East Yorkshire. Sorry for the details; it’s the one-time geography student in me that’s trying to escape. So the ride around here is a real delight with lots of attractive small-scale valleys, and over gentle ridges between them. I really enjoyed meandering around here for a couple of hours with no fixed route, just a general direction of travel.

  Approaching the end of my meanderings I arrived at the village of Wood Ditton with a rather splendid piece of artwork by the crossroads in the centre of the village. Made of cast iron, it seems to be a sort of weather vane mounted on two cart wheels which stand on a stone plinth. The fine detail includes a couple of people sawing a log. The whole structure is about 12 feet high. Despite searching on the Interweb I’ve been unable to find out anything about it. I’ll have to go back and ask someone, as I sense that there’s an interesting story to be told.

  Monday 11 April 2016, 104 miles

  Crinkle Crankle Rider and Crinkle Crankle Walls (C#8)

  Today’s ride reprises a familiar theme. Having discovered the world of crinkle crankle wal
ls (C#5, 30 March) I was keen to see some more. My interest was piqued by a conversation with Mick Madgett who owns Madgetts Cycles in Diss. Allow me to digress for a moment. The shop has been in the Madgett family for three generations. I would describe it as a traditional bike shop; what it lacks in flashy modern presentation is more than made up for by the depth of knowledge that Mick and his team have, coupled with a quality of service that is second to none. And no, Mick isn’t paying me to write this. The two Bianchis I currently own came from Madgetts and have been serviced and repaired there as well.

  Well, back to today’s theme. When I called in at Madgetts, Mick mentioned that he had seen my blog about crinkle crankle walls. He mentioned that there was a particularly fine example in the village of Easton, near Wickham Market. He also told me about another one in Eye, which I must have ridden past many times without noticing. So that largely determined the choice of today’s route.

  Arriving in Eye I immediately spotted the wall and was amazed that I hadn’t spotted it before. It runs along the front of Chandos Lodge, which was once owned by Sir Frederick Ashton, choreographer with the Royal Ballet. The property was well known during the 1950s and 1960s for its weekend parties, when the cream of London’s theatre and ballet stars would visit. Dame Margot Fonteyn was a regular visitor, apparently. So this reminded me that I must ride with my eyes open in future to avoid missing out.

  Having ‘ticked off’ the Eye wall I rode on to Easton, which is between Framlingham and Wickham Market. This was a magnificent sight and is claimed to be the longest crinkle crankle wall anywhere: it was two and a half miles long at one time, and the longest continuous section stretches for about three-quarters of a mile. The wall achieved a certain notoriety in 2013 when a car crashed into it and demolished a 20-foot-long section. Around 6,000 bricks were knocked over and 3,500 of them were cleaned and reused. The wall was eventually repaired at a cost of £20,000. The motorist has yet to be apprehended. As an aside I discovered while reading up about the wall that Easton Hall, the seat of the Duke and Duchess of Hamilton, was demolished in the 1920s and rebuilt in the USA as a ranch house. Wow!