Buried in the Sky: The Extraordinary Story of the Sherpa Climbers on K2's Deadliest Day
Page 29
propane, 180
prosperity, 16, 23
Prusik hitch, 196
psychostimulants, 184
public-relations value, 160
puja ceremonies, 104, 105, 115
pulmonary edema, 117, 133, 163, 211
Qaiser, Shahzad, 217–18
quartz rock, 105, 127
Quechua, 65
Qur’an, Quranic law, 87, 99, 110, 226
radio, 40, 132–35, 151, 187, 188
Big Pasang’s use of, 197, 198, 255n
garbled information and, 123, 185
lead team and, 122, 123, 146
Marco’s use of, 193
Nadir’s use of, 135, 139
Shaheen’s use of, 132, 133, 134
Raghunath Aryal, 52
Rana, Devyani, 49, 242n
Rana, Gorakh, 50, 243n
rappelling, 2, 3, 139, 152, 168–71, 173
Ratna, Queen Mother of Nepal, 243n
Rawalpindi, 107–23
Raza, Muhammad, 225, 249n
Raza, Syed Amir, 100
Red Army, Chinese, 76
red blood-cell count, 65, 116–17, 244n
refugees:
Buddhists, 14, 22
in civil war, 53, 54, 58, 60, 243n
partition of India and, 36
in Rolwaling Valley, 14, 16
Sherpa as, 66
Regency Hotel, 216
Reichert, Joe, 109
Reichssportführer, 19
reincarnation, 174
relief organizations, 55
religious experience, 201
religious persecution, 36
REM sleep, 201
rescues, rescue system:
Ger’s rigging of, 196, 255n
as slow-paced, 195
see also specific people
rest steps, 130
rice, 100, 104, 155
Rice, Nick, 96, 99, 111, 115, 126, 136, 146
in Los Angeles, 222
rinderpest disease, 71
rings, 125, 126
Rinpoche, Guru, 14–16, 237n
roads, 86
Karakorum Highway, 78, 94, 95, 214
rock salt, 86, 124
rock slides, 95, 113, 125
Rolwaling Excursions, 26, 27
Rolwaling River, 10, 13, 15
longevity and, 16
Rolwaling Valley, 11–27, 68, 230, 245n
apocalyptic legend of, 15
as beyul, 14, 16, 237n
Chhiring as monastery patron in, 27
founding myth of, 15–16
Hillary’s trek in, 17
on maps, 10
mortality rate in, 238n
population in, 16
village rotation in, 13–14
war against demons in, 14–15
written history of, 14
Rongbuk Monastery, 67
Roosevelt, Theodore, 6
rope, rope lines, 112, 122, 128–29, 131, 132, 135, 148, 155, 198, 250n, 251n
anchor point of, 196
in Bottleneck, 78, 132, 148, 149–50, 151
Dren’s body and, 152, 153
emergency, 172, 252n
Endura, 148, 190, 250n
on Everest, 251n
Figure-8-on-a-bight and, 164, 165, 170, 171
fixed lines, 145, 162, 164, 165, 170–73, 180, 181, 186, 188, 189, 190, 195, 251n
Ger’s rigging of rescue system with, 196, 255n
Jumik and Koreans tangled in, 162, 167–68, 189–90, 195, 252n, 254n
left behind, 143
in Nadir’s descent with Shaheen, 139–40
Pasang and Jumik’s creation of descent system of, 162, 164–65
severed by avalanche, 162, 190
shortage of, 145–46, 147, 148
in Shoulder, 144, 145–46
on Traverse, 164, 165, 170, 180
rosary, 125–26
Roskelley, John, 20, 238n
Royal Geographical Society, 28
Royal Nepalese Army, 58
Royal Netherlands Meteorological Institute, 138, 250n
Russia, Czarist, 81, 83
Ruttledge, Hugh, 71
Ryan, Nick, 254n
Sabir, Nazir, 85–86, 108, 146, 225–27, 257n
at tea party, 218, 219, 257n
Sacherer, Janice, 14, 237n, 238n
Safdar Ali, Mir, 82–84, 247n–48n
safety, 121
of descents, 2, 155
expedition-style climbing and, 129
ignorance about, 130–31
of mountain camps, 101, 131
safety harness, 190
salat, 97, 115
Saleem, Kamal, 107
Salisbury, Richard, 240n
salt, 71, 86, 124
Sar, 72
sardines, 133
satellite phones, 97, 125, 160, 216
of Chhiring, 104, 105
of Hugues, 5, 119, 137, 159
of Marco, 181
in Shimshal, 87, 214
of Wilco, 126, 138, 191–92, 206–7, 254n
satellites, GPS, 206
Savoia Glacier, 33, 102
Schoening, Pete, 37
Schomberg, R. C. F., 247n–48n
screaming, 150, 151, 154
September 11, 2001, terrorist attacks, 109
seracs, 121, 149, 150, 155, 173
defined, 146
emergency rope and, 252n
fall of, 167, 168, 169, 174, 177–78, 190, 196, 217
Karim on, 164, 165, 182–83
on maps, 147, 162
Serbia, 152
Serbian K2 Expedition, 86, 90, 107–9, 114, 119, 144
on Askole departure, 97
Mandic’s fall and death and, 147, 149–55, 251n
porters for, 100, 109, 122
Shaheen’s illness and rescue and, 120, 131–36, 138–40, 144–45, 207, 213, 218
see also K2, 2008 disaster on
Sgt. Pepper’s Lonely Hearts Club Band (album), 31
Shah dynasty, 48–53, 74
legend about, 51–52
murder of, 48–52, 58, 242n, 243n
Shahi, Rajiv Raj, 243n
Shams, 80
Shangri-la, 84, 182
Shar Khombo, 66
Sharp, David, 43, 241n
sharpa (people from the east), 66, 68
shaving, 87
Sher, 80–81
Sherpa, 17, 64–76, 218, 246n
adaptation to oxygen deprivation by, 64–65
amateur climbers and, 42
animal slaughter and, 245n
anthropological studies of, 14
Bhote compared with, 57, 68–70, 106
clans of, 66–70, 103, 244n, 245n
cremation and, 103
defining of, 68
as ethnicity, 13, 64–70, 75–76, 237n, 245n
on Everest, 23–25, 43, 105
fame of, 70, 75–76
foreigner description of, 70
K2 and, 43, 98, 103–4, 106, 147, 171, 257n
killed on German expedition to Nanga Parbat, 19, 238n
naming system of, 66–68, 245n
origins of, 66
quartz rock scuffle and, 105
stereotype of, 64
Tenzing’s Everest climb and, 75–76
village rotation of, 13–14
Wiessner and, 33–36
Wolfe rescue attempt of, 35
see also specific people
sherpa (job description), 45, 63, 68, 144–45, 210, 227
bonus for, 160
use of term, 13, 64, 70, 237n, 241n
Sherpa, Ang Lhamu, 73
Sherpa, Ang Tenzing Sherpa, 19
Sherpa, Chhiring Dorje, 10, 11–14, 17–27, 55, 223–25, 227–30
ambition of, 12, 25, 43
appearance of, 43, 44
becomes head of household, 18–19
Buddhist lama of, 2, 26, 27, 104, 124, 172
at Camp 4, 144, 183–84
cheerful determination of, 11
&
nbsp; childhood of, 12, 17–18
clan of, 68
in Colorado, 45–47
deaths experienced by, 17–18
on definition of Sherpa, 68
Everest accident of, 24
Everest climbed by, 2, 23–26, 42, 44, 45
Gilkey Memorial as viewed by, 102–3
gravest transgression of, 17
as interpreter, 23
K2 Base Camp and, 102–6, 112–14, 124–25, 129, 210
at K2 summit, 159, 160
Kathmandu home of, 27, 220, 227–28
on Lhotse, 229–30
Makalu and, 228–29
marriage of, 27
name of, 11, 67
offerings made by, 104, 124, 155
Pasang rescued by, 162, 173–78, 223, 257n
people dependent on, 2, 12, 23, 25, 27
portering considered by, 19, 20
portering jobs of, 22–26
provisions of, 124–25
in return to Kathmandu, 219–20
sherpa used by, 45, 241n
on solar eclipse, 154
speed of, 11, 44
strength of, 44
in U.S. K2 expedition, 1–7, 45–47, 102–6, 112–14, 120, 122, 144, 148–51, 155, 162, 187
visions of, 172
wages and income of, 22–25
Sherpa, Dawa Phuti (Tenzing’s wife), 71, 72–73
Sherpa, Hrita, 17
Sherpa, Jamling Tenzing Norgay, 73, 75
Sherpa, Mingma, 256n
Sherpa, Ngawang (Chhiring’s brother), 12, 25, 172, 220, 227
Sherpa, Ngawang Oser, 24, 104, 124, 172, 238n
Sherpa, Ngawang Thundu, 2, 14, 25, 26, 172, 230, 237n, 238n
on Chhiring, 11–12
clothing of, 17
debts of, 19
wife’s death and, 18
Sherpa, Nima, 18
Sherpa, Pasang Lahmu, 24–25
Sherpa, Pemba Gyalje, 68, 103–4, 122, 141, 144, 183–84
Big Pasang and Jumik’s deaths and, 200, 205
descent of, 171–72, 173
Marco found and rescued by, 162, 204–6, 223, 255n
media and, 224
medicine given to, 184
photos taken by, 200, 205, 253n, 254n, 255n
at tea party, 218
Tsering’s consulting with, 187
Wilco’s location and, 256n
Sherpa, Pem Phutar, 19, 238n
Sherpa, Rinjing, 212, 256n
Sherpa, Sonam Tsering, 20, 21, 24–25
Sherpa, Tensing Futi, 2, 27, 44, 47, 150, 172, 227
Sherpa, Tensing Norbu, 240n
Sherpa, Tenzing Norgay, 70–76, 245n
autobiography of, 76
in Darjeeling, 71, 72, 76
death of, 246n
discrimination experienced by, 71–72
ethnicity dispute over, 75–76
Everest climbed by, 17, 38, 73–76, 245n, 246n
Everest obsession of, 72–73
flags held up by, 74, 246n
as indentured servant, 71
marriages of, 71, 73, 75
name of, 67
as porter, 72, 73
as sirdar, 73
sudden stardom of, 74–75
Sherpa, Tshering Namdu, 2, 27, 44, 47, 150, 172, 227
Sherpa-climber, 70
Sherpani, Dawa (Chhiring’s wife), 2, 26–27, 114, 150, 172
Chhiring’s return and, 220, 227–28
childbirths of, 27
in Colorado, 45–47
K2 climb as viewed by, 43, 46–47, 105, 227
name of, 67
Shigar River, 78, 96
Shigri, Shujaat, 99
Shimshal, 78–81, 78, 108, 154, 210
founding of, 79–81
glaciers and, 90–91
inviolate feeling in, 86–87
jeep track to, 86
to K2 (map), 94
K2 deaths and, 213–14
Nazir’s visit to, 225–27
population of, 81, 86
satellite phone in, 87, 214
Shimshalis, 79, 147, 226
see also specific people
Shimshal Pass, 78, 81, 82, 84, 94
Shimshal River, 78, 80
Shimshal Valley, 77–91, 78
legends about, 79–81
mountaineers in, 85–86
partition of India and, 85
as vacation destination, 84–85
Younghusband’s espionage in, 81–84
Shipton, Eric, 72
Shishapangma, 16
Shiva (Shankar), 238n
shoes, 100, 223
Shoulder, 137, 138, 151, 152, 154, 185, 186, 190, 250n
Camp 4 in, 121, 142–46, 147, 169, 206
descent to, 169, 178, 194
Shruti, Princess of Nepal, 243n
Siachen glacier, 78, 211
signing bonuses, 99–100
Silk Road, 79, 81
Singapore team, 90, 109
sirdar (chief of the mountain workers), 73
Sjogren, Tom, 206
Skardu, 99, 213, 214
Combined Military Hospital in, 113, 215
Fearless Five in, 95–96, 211
on maps, xiv, 78
ski poles, 165, 194
Skog, Cecilie, 5, 114, 115, 126, 149–51, 159, 166, 210
in Antarctica, 222, 257n
and Rolf’s disappearance and death, 168–69, 222, 252n
scream of, 150, 151
sky burial, 103, 249n
sleep, REM, 201
sleeping bags, 34, 35, 187, 208, 240n
of dead climbers, 183, 209, 224
of Pasang, 179, 180
smallpox, 83
smog, 21
sniff test, 85
Snow Dome, 121, 147, 156, 164, 165, 180, 183, 189, 197–98, 252n
snow leopards, 15, 86
socks, 146, 222
solar eclipse, 154, 251n
Solukhumbu region, 68, 103
sonam (Buddhist concept of virtue), 174
South Col, 25
Southeast Asia, 12
see also specific places
South Korean K2 Abruzzi Spur Flying Jump, 2–7, 60–63, 115, 129, 143–46, 148, 156–60
at Base Camp, 104–5, 106
descent of, 163–65
evacuation of, 210, 211, 256n
gear of deceased and, 209
Jumik tangled in ropes and tied to Korean clients, 162, 167–68, 189–90, 193–98, 252n, 254n
Lahmu’s donation from, 221
late return of, 185–88
Manaslu and, 220–21, 228–29
Pasang Lama’s joining of, 60–63
provisions of, 96, 126–27
rope fixing and, 122
selection of name for, 62
sex and, 99
see also K2, 2008 disaster on
South Pole, 38, 114, 126
spies:
British, 81–84
Indian, 51
Russian, 83
sponsorship, 41, 43, 45, 60–61, 101, 105, 119, 221, 222, 228
K2 summit and, 159–60, 180
squirrels, whistling ground, 79
Staleman, Jelle, 141
stealing:
in caravan raids, 81, 82
by Pasang Lama, 59–60
of rosary, 126
Steamboat Springs, Colo., 45–47
steroids, 139, 140, 166
storms, 19, 24, 30–31, 35, 36, 113, 115
charity supplies and, 100
Hoselito’s tent destroyed by, 120, 140–41
stoves, 180, 181, 182, 228, 253n
Sträng, Fredrik, 130–31, 143, 151–54
tape of, 154
on value of summits, 160
strikes, 71, 72, 100
strokes, 117
summits:
cost of, 160
late, 155, 251n–52n
of Lhotse, 229–30
of Makalu, 229
value of, 160
> see also K2 summit
sun, 148–49, 154, 155, 158
sunbathing, 34, 240n
Surah Ikhlas, 226
Surendra, King of Nepal, 52
surfers, 200
surgical masks, 21
Surra, 69
Swedish clients, 228, 229
Switzerland, 224
Szundy, Matt, 196
Tajikistan, xiv, 10, 78
Takar Dolsangma (goddess of K2), 2, 3, 129, 144, 149, 173, 203, 210
Chhiring’s consulting on, 103–4
Chhiring’s offerings to, 104, 124, 155
Dren’s fall and, 150
legend of, 16, 238n
Pasang and, 106
reincarnation and, 174
Wiessner’s attempt and, 33–34, 239n, 240n
Takeuchi, Hirotaka, 88
tattoos, 113
tea party, 217–19, 257n
teashops, 26–27
technology, 41–42
television, 40, 74, 211, 257n
tents, 35, 36, 83, 136
at Abruzzi Camp 2, 131, 132
at Camp 4, 142, 144, 146, 151, 169, 178, 179–80, 182, 183, 184, 187, 250n
carrying of, 100
at Cesen Camp 2, 133–34, 136
at Cesen Camp 3, 136, 137–38, 140–41
destruction of, 113, 120, 140–41
Italian expedition and, 39–40, 41, 241n
at K2 Base Camp, 98, 101, 208–9
near gassing in, 118
Terrorist and Destructive Activities Act, 53
terrorists, terrorism, 53, 58, 107–8
September 11 attacks, 109
Tethys Sea, 12
Thame, 71
Thingi Shalsangma, 16
thrombophlebitis, 37
Thuraya phones, 191–92
Chhiring’s use of, 104, 105
confidentiality and, 206
Wilco’s use of, 191–92, 206–7
Tibet, xiv, 10, 12, 16, 29, 55
British influence in, 245n
Chinese invasion of, 22, 76
Kham region of, 66, 244n
Kharta region of, 70–71, 245n, 246n
Mongols’ invasion of, 14, 66
Muslim invasion of, 66
Sherpa origins in, 66
sky burial in, 103, 249n
Tibetan language, 56, 239n
Tibetans, 68, 75, 76, 246n
see also Bhote
Time, 70
Tisar, 100
Titan (shield bearer), 79
TMZ, 222
tourism, 17, 22, 26, 65, 109, 134, 226, 227, 243n
Pakistani incentives to, 108
Tourism Ministry, Pakistani, 96, 108, 217–19
trade:
British, 81
caravan, 81, 82
of Sherpa, 66, 71
traffic, 21, 57
Trango Towers, 96, 97
Traverse, 121, 146, 156, 164–68, 170, 172, 180, 194, 197–98
Tredway, Dana, 45
Tribhuvan, King of Nepal, 52, 74
Tribhuvan International Airport, 220
Tsechu, 70, 245n
Tseringma, 15–16, 19–20, 238n
Tseringmi Kangsu, 238n
Tshe-chu, 245n
Tumlingtar, 55
unemployment, 53, 58
unions, 96, 100