Shantaram: A Novel

by Gregory David Roberts

  Competition in Colaba for the tourist dollar was cordial, but creatively emphatic. Yemeni street vendors held up falcon-crested daggers and hand-embroidered passages from the Koran. Tall, handsome Somalis offered bracelets made from beaten silver coins. Artists from Orissa displayed images of the Taj Mahal painted on dried, pressed papaya leaves. Nigerians sold carved, ebony canes with stiletto blades concealed within their spiral shafts. Iranian refugees weighed polished turquoise stones by the ounce on brass scales hung from the branches of trees. Drum sellers from Uttar Pradesh, carrying six or seven drums each, burst into brief, impromptu concerts if a tourist showed the faintest interest. Exiles from Afghanistan sold huge, ornamental silver rings engraved with the Pashto script and encircling amethysts the size of pigeons’ eggs.

  Threading through that commercial tangle were those who made their living servicing the businesses and the street traders themselves—incense wavers, bringing silken drifts of temple incense on silver trays, stove cleaners, mattress fluffers, ear cleaners, foot massagers, rat catchers, food and chai carriers, florists, laundry-men, water carriers, gas-bottle men, and many others. Weaving their way between them and the traders and the tourists were the dancers, singers, acrobats, musicians, fortune-tellers, temple acolytes, fire-eaters, monkey men, snake men, bear-handlers, beggars, self-flagellators, and many more who lived from the crowded street, and returned to the slums at night.

  Every one of them broke the law in some way, eventually, in the quest for a faster buck. But the swiftest to the source, the sharpest-eyed of all the street people, were those of us who broke the law professionally: the black marketeers. The street accepted me in that complex network of schemes and scammers for several reasons. First, I only worked the tourists who were too careful or too paranoid to deal with Indians; if I didn’t take them, no-one did. Second, no matter what the tourists wanted, I always took them to the appropriate Indian businessman; I never did the deals myself. And, third, I wasn’t greedy; my commissions always accorded with the standard set by decent, self-respecting crooks throughout the city. I made sure, as well, when my commissions were large enough, to put money back into the restaurants, hotels, and begging bowls of the area.

  And there was something else, something far less tangible but even more important, perhaps, than commissions and turf-war sensitivities. The fact that a white foreigner—a man most of them took to be European—had settled so ably and comfortably in the mud, near the bottom of their world, was profoundly satisfying to the sensibility of the Indians on the street. In a curious mix of pride and shame, my presence legitimised their crimes. What they did, from day to day, couldn’t be so bad if a gora joined them in doing it. And my fall raised them up because they were no worse, after all, than Linbaba, the educated foreigner who lived by crime and worked the street as they did.

  Nor was I the only foreigner who lived from the black market. There were European and American drug dealers, pimps, counterfeiters, con men, gem traders, and smugglers. Among them were two men who shared the name George. One was Canadian and the other was English. They were inseparable friends who’d lived on the streets for years. No one seemed to know their surnames. To make the distinction, they were known by their star signs: Scorpio George and Gemini George. The Zodiac Georges were junkies who’d sold their passports, as the last valuable things they’d owned, and then worked the heroin travellers—tourists who came to India to binge-hit heroin, for a week or two, before returning to the safety of their own countries. There were surprisingly large numbers of those tourists, and the Zodiac Georges survived from their dealings with them.

  The cops watched me and the Georges and the other foreigners who worked the streets, and they knew exactly what we were doing. They reasoned, truly enough, that we caused no violent harm, and we were good for business in the black market that brought them bribes and other benefits. They took their cut from the drug and currency dealers. They left us alone. They left me alone.

  On that first day after the cholera epidemic, I made about two hundred U.S. dollars in three hours. It wasn’t a lot, but I decided it was enough. The rain had squalled through the morning, and by noon it seemed to have settled into the kind of sultry, dozing drizzle that sometimes lasts for days. I was sitting on a bar stool, and drinking a freshly squeezed cane juice under a striped awning near the President Hotel, not far from the slum, when Vikram ran in out of the rain.

  ‘Hey, Lin! How you doin’, man? Fuck this fuckin’ rain, yaar.’

  We shook hands, and I ordered him a cane juice. He tipped his flat, black Flamenco hat onto his back, where it hung from a cord at his throat. His black shirt featured white embroidered figures down the button-strip at the front. The white figures were waving lassoes over their heads. His belt was made from American silver dollar coins linked one to the other and fastened with a domed concho as a belt buckle. The black flamenco pants were embroidered with fine white scrolls down the outside of the leg, and ended in a line of three small silver buttons. His Cuban-heeled boots had crossover loops of leather that fastened with buckles at the outside.

  ‘Not really riding weather, na?’

  ‘Oh, shit!’ he spat. ‘You heard about Lettie and the horse? Jesus, man! That was fuckin’ weeks ago, yaar. I haven’t seen you in too fuckin’ long.’

  ‘How’s it going with Lettie?’

  ‘Not great.’ He sighed as he said it, yet his smile was happy. ‘But I think she’s coming around, yaar. She’s a very special kind of chick. She needs to get all the hating done, like, before she can kind of cruise into the loving part. But I’ll get her, even if the whole world says I’m crazy.’

  ‘I don’t think you’re crazy to go after her.’

  ‘You don’t?’

  ‘No. She’s a lovely girl. She’s a great girl. You’re a nice guy. And you’re more alike than people think. You both have a sense of humour, and you love to laugh. She can’t stand hypocrites, and neither can you. And you’re interested in life, I think, in pretty much the same way. I think you’re a good couple, or at least you will be. And I think you’ll get her in the end, Vikram. I’ve seen the way she looks at you, even when she’s putting shit on you. She likes you so much that she has to put you down. It’s her way. Just stick with it, and you’ll win her in the end.’

  ‘Lin … listen, man. That’s it! Fuck it! I like you. I mean, that’s a fuckin’ cool rave, yaar. I’m going to be your friend from now on. I’m your fuckin’ blood brother, man. If you need anything, you call on me. Is it a deal?’

  ‘Sure,’ I smiled. ‘It’s a deal.’

  He fell silent, staring out at the rain. His curly black hair had grown to his collar, at the back, and was trimmed at the front and sides. His moustache was fastidiously snipped and trimmed to little more than the thickness that a felt-tipped pen might’ve made. In profile, his face was imposing: the long forehead ended in a hawk-like nose and descended past a firm, solemn mouth to a prominent, confident jaw. When he turned to face me it was his eyes that dominated, however, and his eyes were young, curious, and shimmering with good humour.

  ‘You know, Lin, I really love her,’ he said softly. He let his eyes drift downward to the pavement and then he looked up again quickly. ‘I really love that English chick.’

  ‘You know, Vikram, I really love it,’ I said, mimicking his tone of voice and the earnest expression on his face. ‘I really love that cowboy shirt.’

  ‘What, this old thing?’ he cried, laughing with me. ‘Fuck, man, you can have it!’

  He jumped off the stool and began to unbutton his shirt.

  ‘No! No! I was only joking!’

  ‘What’s that? You mean you don’t like my shirt?’

  ‘I didn’t say that.’

  ‘So, what’s wrong with my fuckin’ shirt?’

  ‘There’s nothing wrong with your fuckin’ shirt. I just don’t want it.’

  ‘Too late, man!’ he bellowed, pulling his shirt from his back and throwing it at me. ‘Too fuckin’ late!’


  He wore a black singlet under the shirt, and the black hat was still hanging at his back. The cane juice crusher had a portable hi-fi at his stall. A new song from a hit Hindi movie started up.

  ‘Hey, I love this song, yaar!’ Vikram cried out. ‘Turn it up, baba! Arre, full karo!’

  The juice-wallah obligingly turned the volume up to the maximum, and Vikram began to dance and sing along with the words. Showing surprisingly elegant and graceful skill, he swung out from under the crowded awning and danced in the lightly falling rain. Within one minute of his twirling, swaying dance he’d lured other young men from the footpath, and there were six, seven, and then eight dancers laughing in the rain while the rest of us clapped, whooped, and hollered.

  Turning his steps toward me once more, Vikram reached out to grasp my wrist with both of his hands, and then began to drag me into the dance. I protested and tried to fight him off, but many hands from the street assisted him, and I was pushed into the group of dancers. I surrendered to India, as I did every day, then, and as I still do, every day of my life, no matter where I am in the world. I danced, following Vikram’s steps, and the street cheered us on.

  The song finished after some minutes, and we turned to see Lettie standing under the awning and watching us with open amusement. Vikram ran to greet her, and I joined them, shaking off the rain.

  ‘Don’t tell me! I don’t wanna know!’ she said, smiling but silencing Vikram with the raised palm of her hand. ‘Whatever you do, in the privacy of your own rain shower, is your own business. Hello, Lin. How are you, darlin’?’

  ‘Fine, Lettie. Wet enough for you?’

  ‘Your rain dance seems to be working a treat. Karla was supposed to join me and Vikram, right about now. We’re going to the jazz concert at Mahim. But she’s flooded in, at the Taj. She just called me, to let me know. The whole Gateway’s flooded. Limousines and taxis are floatin’ about like paper boats, and the guests can’t get out. They’re stranded at the hotel, and our Karla’s stranded there, and all.’

  Glancing around quickly, I saw that Prabaker’s cousin Shantu was still sitting in his taxi, parked with several others outside the restaurants where I’d seen him earlier. I checked my watch. It was three-thirty. I knew that the local fishermen would all be back on shore with their catches. I turned to Vikram and Lettie once more.

  ‘Sorry, guys, gotta go!’ I pushed the shirt back into Vikram’s hands. ‘Thanks for the shirt, man. I’ll grab it next time. Keep it for me!’

  I jumped into Shantu’s taxi, twirling the meter to the on position through the passenger window. Lettie and Vikram waved as we sped past them. I explained my plan to Shantu on the way to the kholi settlement, adjacent to our slum. His dark, lined face creased in a weathered smile and he shook his head in wonder, but he pushed the battered taxi a little faster through the short ride on the rain-drenched road.

  At the fishermen’s settlement, I enlisted the support of Vinod, who was a patient at my clinic and one of Prabaker’s close friends. He selected one of his shorter punts, and we lifted the light, flat boat onto the roof of the taxi and sped back to the Taj Hotel area, near the Radio Club Hotel.

  Shantu worked in his taxi sixteen hours a day for six days every week. He was determined that his son and two daughters would know lives that were better than his own. He saved money for their education and for the substantial dowries he would be required to provide if the girls were to marry well. He was permanently exhausted, and beset by all the torments, terrible and trivial, that poverty endures. Vinod supported his parents, his wife, and five children from the fish that he hauled from the sea with his thin, strong arms. On his own initiative, he’d formed a co-operative with twenty other poor fishermen. That pooling of resources had provided a measure of security, but his income seldom stretched to luxuries such as new sandals, or school books, or a third meal in any one day. Still, when they knew what I wanted to do, and why, neither Vinod nor Shantu would accept any money from me. I struggled to give it to them, even trying to force the money down the fronts of their shirts, but they refused to allow it. They were poor, tired, worried men, but they were Indian, and any Indian man will tell you that although love might not have been invented in India, it was certainly perfected there.

  We put the long, flat punt down in the shallow water of the flooded road near the Radio Club, close to Anand’s India Guest House. Shantu gave me the oilskin cape he used to keep himself dry with whenever the taxi broke down, and the weathered black chauffeur’s cap that was his good-luck charm. He waved us off as Vinod and I struck out for the Taj Mahal Hotel. We poled our way along the road that was usually busy with taxis, trucks, motorcycles, and private cars. The water grew deeper with every stroke of the poles until, at Best Street corner, where the Taj Mahal Hotel complex began, it was already waist deep.

  The Taj had experienced such floods in the surrounding streets many times. The hotel was built upon a tall platform of bluestone and granite blocks, with ten marble steps leading up to each wide entrance. The floodwaters were deep that year—they reached to the second step from the top—and cars were floating, drifting helplessly, and bumping together near the wall surrounding the great arch of the Gateway of India monument. We steered the boat directly to the steps of the main entrance. The foyer and doorways were crowded with people: rich businessmen, watching their limousines bubble and drift into the rain; women in expensive local and foreign designer dresses; actors and politicians; and fashionable sons and daughters.

  Karla stepped forward as if she’d been expecting me. She accepted my hand, and stepped into the punt. I threw the cape around her shoulders as she sat in the centre of the boat, and handed her the cap. She slipped it on with a raffish tilt of the cap’s peak, and we set off. Vinod sent us in a loop toward the Gateway Monument. As we entered its magnificent, vaulted chamber, he began to sing. The monument produced a spectacular acoustic. His love song echoed, and rang the bell in every heart that heard him.

  Vinod brought us to the taxi stand at the Radio Club Hotel. I reached out to help Karla from the boat, but she jumped to the footpath beside me, and we held on to one another for a moment. Her eyes were a darker green beneath the peak of the cap. Her black hair glistened with raindrops. Her breath was sweet with cinnamon and caraway seed.

  We pulled apart, and I opened the door of a taxi. She handed me the cap and the cape, and took a seat in the back of the cab. She hadn’t spoken a single word since I’d arrived with the boat. Then she simply addressed the driver.

  ‘Mahim,’ she said. ‘Challo!’ Mahim area. Let’s go!

  She looked at me once more as the taxi drew away from the kerb. There was a command or a demand in her eyes. I couldn’t decide what it was. I watched the cab speed away. Vinod and Shantu watched it with me, and clapped their hands on my shoulders. We lifted Vinod’s boat back onto the roof of the taxi. As I took my seat beside Shantu, reaching out with my left arm to hold the long boat on the roof, I glanced up to see a face in the crowd. It was Rajan, Madame Zhou’s eunuch servant. He was staring at me. His face was a gargoyle mask of malevolence and hatred.

  That face remained with me all the way back to the kholi settlement, but when we unloaded the boat, and Shantu agreed to join Vinod and me for dinner, I let the image of Rajan’s malice melt into my memory. I ordered food from a local restaurant and it was delivered to us there, on the beach, steaming hot in metal containers. We spread the containers out on an old piece of canvas sail, and sat beneath a wide plastic awning to eat. Vinod’s parents, wife, and five children took their places around the edge of the canvas sheet beside Shantu and me. Rain continued to fall, but the air was warm, and a faint breeze from the bay slowly stirred the humid evening. Our shelter on the sandy beach beside the many long boats looked out to the rolling sea. We ate chicken byriani, malai kofta, vegetable korma, rice, curried vegetables, deep fried pieces of pumpkin, potato, onion, and cauliflower, hot buttered naan bread, dhal, papadams, and green mango chutney. It was a feast, and the de
light that spilled from the eyes of the children, while they ate their fill, put starlight in our smiles as we watched them.

  When night fell, I rode back to Colaba’s tourist beat in a cab. I wanted to take a room for a few hours at the India Guest House. I wasn’t worried about the C-Form at the hotel. I knew that I wouldn’t have to sign the register, and Anand wouldn’t include me in his list of guests. The arrangement we’d agreed on months before—the same one that applied to most of the cheaper hotels in the city—allowed me to pay an hourly rent, directly to him, so that I could use the shower or conduct private business in one of the rooms from time to time. I wanted to shave. I wanted to spend a good half hour under a shower, using too much shampoo and soap. I wanted to sit in a white-tiled bathroom where I could forget the cholera, and scrape and scrub the last few weeks off my skin.

  ‘Oh, Lin! So glad to see you!’ Anand muttered through clenched teeth as I walked into the foyer. His eyes were glittering with tension, and his long, handsome face was grim. ‘We have a problem here. Come quick!’

  He led me to a room off the main corridor. A girl answered the door and spoke to us in Italian. She was distraught and dishevelled. Her hair was messed, and matted with lint and what looked like food. Her thin nightdress hung askew, revealing the hand-span of her ribs. She was a junkie, and she was stoned almost to sleep, but there was a numb, somnolent panic in her pleading.

  On the bed there was a young man sprawled with one leg over the foot of the bed. He was naked to the waist, and his trousers were open at the front. One boot was discarded and the other was still on his left foot. He was about twenty-eight years old. He was dead.

  No pulse. No heartbeat. No breathing. The overdose had thrown his body down the long black well, and his face was as blue as the sky at 5 p.m. on the darkest day of winter. I hauled his body up onto the bed, and put a roll of sheet behind his neck.