45: (both images) Ray Jerome Baker/Bishop Museum
46-47: unknown/Bishop Museum
48: (left) Rieman and Pray/Bishop Museum
49: unknown
50-51: collection of Joe Akana
54: Alfred Gurrey, Jr./Bishop Museum
56: Nathaniel Farbman/Bishop Museum
58: unknown
62: unknown/Surfing Heritage Foundation
63: unknown
69: (top) John “Doc” Ball, (bottom) unknown
71: unknown
73: Phyllis Pearl Foster
74-75: John “Doc” Ball
77: John “Doc” Ball
78-79: Joe Quigg
81: Clarence Maki
85: John Severson
86: (both images) unknown
90-91: Joe Quigg
96-97: Joe Quigg
99: Bev Morgan
102-103: Joe Quigg
104: collection of Vicki Williams
105: unknown
106-107: Joe Quigg
110: Bob Meistrell
112-113: Bud Browne
116: Tom McBride
119: Grant Rohloff
121: Ron Stoner
124: Clarence Maki
128-129: Don James
131: (top) Walter Hoffman, (bottom) Joe Quigg
132: (top) Joel de Rosnay, (bottom) unknown
135: Ray Leighton
136: unknown
139: Ron Church
140: John Severson
144: collection of Greg Noll
146-147: Tom Keck
148: unknown
150: Don James
152-153: Allan Grant/Getty Images
157: (left) Allan Grant, (right) collection of Kathy Kohner
158: John Severson
160: Bud Browne
163: collection of Hobie Alter
166: LeRoy Grannis
169: (top) Bev Morgan, (bottom) LeRoy Grannis
172: collection of Dale Velzy
176: Surfer archive
178: Ron Church
181: unknown
182-183: Ron Church
186: Bev Morgan
189: Getty Images/Handout
190: LeRoy Grannis
193: Ron Church
195: John Severson
198: Ron Perrott
200: Allan Grant/Getty Images
202-203: Dennis Norton
205: Bob Weeks
206: unknown
208: (top) unknown, (bottom) Bob Weeks
215: (left) Richard Graham, (right) Ron Stoner
216: unknown
217-218: unknown
221: LeRoy Grannis
225: Bob Weeks
227: (left) LeRoy Grannis, (right) Surfer archive
229: Ron Perrott
230: Ron Perrott
232: collection of Bruce Brown
234-235: Ron Stoner
239: John Witzig
240: John Witzig
243: unknown
245: Tom Keck
247: Ron Stoner
248: John Witzig
250: Dave Darling
255: Rick Griffin
258: Dan Merkel/A-Frame
260-261: Jill Blunk
262: (top) Surfer archive, (bottom) Jeff Divine
264-265: Jeff Divine
267: Warren Bolster
268: Jeff Divine
270-271: John Witzig
276-277: Jeff Divine
278: (left) John Witzig, (right) Peter Crawford
280-281: Drew Kampion
282 (both photos) Jeff Divine
284-285: Dan Merkel/A-Frame
287: Don James
288: John Severson
289: (left) John Severson, (right) Art Brewer
290: Rick Griffin
292: Drew Kampion
294-295: Jeff Divine
296-297: Jeff Divine
301: Bernie Baker
302: Gerald Saunders
304-305: Jim Russi
309: Erik Aeder
311: Budhi/Seve Pezman collection
313: (top) Jeff Divine, (bottom) Ron Stoner Surfer archive
315: Drew Kampion
317: Jeff Divine
319: Jeff Divine
321: Dan Merkel/A-Frame
322-323: Jon Foster
325: (top) Bernie Baker, (bottom) Kimoro Kondo
328: Dan Merkel/A-Frame
330: Jack McCoy
333: Jeff Divine
334-335: Jeff Divine
339: Jeff Divine
341: Jeff Divine
344: Darrell Jones
345: Jeff Divine
346-347: Tom Servais
352: Warren Bolster
354-355: Hugh McLeod
357: Hugh McLeod
359: (left) Universal Pictures, (right) 20th Century Fox
360-361: Ben Lyon/Monterey-Herald
364: Hugh McLeod
366: (top) Hugh McLeod, (bottom) Larry Moore/A-Frame
369: Art Brewer
370-371: Art Brewer
372: Matt George
373: Larry Moore/A-Frame
374-375: Larry Moore/A-Frame
376: Art Brewer
380: Bernie Baker
381: Don King
384-385: DJ Struntz/A-Frame
388: Bud Fawcet
389: Larry Moore/A-Frame
392: Dan Merkel/A-Frame
394: Bettmann/Corbis
399: Jeff Divine
400: Tim McKenna
404: Dutch Vandervoort
406: Jeff Divine
407: Warren Bolster
408-409: Warren Bolster
410: (left) Bernie Baker, (right) Jeff Divine
412-413: Sean Davey
419: Jeff Divine
420-421: Dewey Nicks/Quiksilver
424: Jeff Divine
428: (top) Jeff Divine, (bottom) Art Brewer
431: Larry Moore/A-Frame
432: Doug Acton
434: Doug Acton
436-437: Sylvain Cazenave
440: Sylvain Cazenave
442: Erik Aeder
446-447: Andrew Chisholm
448: Steve Sherman
455: James Cassimus
458: Steve Sherman
461: (left) Jon Steele/A-Frame, (right) Pete Frieden/A-Frame
462: Todd Glaser/A-Frame
463: Thomas Campbell
464: Chris Klopf
466-467: Jeff Divine
470-471: Andrew Shield/A-Frame
472: Andrew Buckley
474-475: Jimmy Wilson
496: Alby Falzon
Index
Pages with photos appear in italics.
A
Aaberg, Kemp, 160
Abellira, Reno, 250, 279, 293, 332, 340, 356
Access, rights of, 386–87
Action Sports Retail, 389
Adler, Frank, 70, 134
Adler, Ken, 271
Aerial surfing, 428–30, 433
Aikau, Clyde, 409
Aikau, Eddie, 279, 317, 318, 320, 336, 405, 406, 407, 409
Aipa, Ben, 340, 351, 352
Alaia boards, 25, 26–27
Alexander, Kala, 427–28
Algaw, Barrie, 245
Allen, Chuck, 368
Alter, Hobart “Hobie,” 163, 164–68, 170, 188, 201, 226, 252
Andersen, Lisa, 418, 419, 421, 422–23, 460
Andersen, Pamela, 457
Anderson, Simon, 354–55, 356, 357, 358
Anderson, William, 31
Andraus, Reinaldo, 402
Angel, Jose, 148
Apocalypse Now, 359
Archbold, Matt, 429
Arena, Eduardo, 212–13
Association of Surfing Professionals (ASP), 392, 394, 398, 456
Astrodeck, 382, 387
August, Robert, 230–33
Australia
boardmakers in, 209, 275
dominance by, 362–63, 365, 367, 391–92, 394
&nbs
p; early history of, 56–58
in the Great Depression, 67, 69–70
introduction of surfing to, 58–59
localism and, 264
New Era in, 243–44, 246
postwar, 134–37
in the seventies, 269, 271–76, 278–79
in the sixties, 205, 207, 209–13
Summer Olympics (1956) in, 135, 205
during World War II, 87
Australian Professional Surfers Association (APSA), 317
Australian Surf Board Association, 134, 182
Australian Surfriders Association, 210, 211
Avalon, Frankie, 189, 190
B
Backdoor, 284, 286, 333, 337, 410, 428
Backyards, 438
Bacon, Roger and Bob, 72
Bain, Rob, 345
Baker, Bernie, 301
Baker, Tim, 275, 386, 427, 468, 472
Bali, 304–5, 306–7, 311–12
Ball, John “Doc,” 75, 88, 94, 109, 175, 222
Ballard, Rochelle, 460, 461
Bane, Aggie, 107
Banks, Jim, 310
Banks, Joseph, 31
Banzai Beach. See Pipeline
Barilotti, Steve, 254, 353, 452
Barland, Michel, 465
Barnfield, Bill, 293
Barrett, Brad, 257
Bartholomew, Wayne
as ASP president, 456, 472
drugs and, 254
politics and, 396
as surfer, 312, 328, 329–30
in surfing contests, 320, 324, 327, 330, 336
Bascom, Willard, 126
Beach Blanket Bingo, 11
Beach Boys, 196, 197–98, 201
Beachley, Layne, 460
Beach Party, 189, 190
Beat Generation, 130, 133
Becker, Phil, 351
Bells Beach, 259, 260–61, 273–74, 316, 357
Benson, Becky, 279
Benson, Linda, 148, 212, 213, 226
Berge, Roar, 398
Berry, Jan, 198, 201
Bertlemann, Larry, 283, 284–85, 428
Big Surf, 473
The Big Surf, 137
Big-wave riding. See also individual people and locations
in ancient Hawaii, 28
attitude and, 129–30
audience for, 151
beginning of, 83–84, 86–87, 125, 126–27, 129–30
new frontiers in, 433–36, 438–39, 441–45
publicity and, 140–41
revival of, 403, 405–7, 409–11
surfboards for, 439
in surf movies, 140
wave measurement and, 13, 83
Big Wednesday, 359, 382
Billabong, 275, 363, 419
Bingham, Hiram, 35, 37
Bing Surfboards, 250
Blake, Tom
books of, 61, 65, 126, 179
in California, 59–60
early life of, 61
on the East Coast, 214
in Hawaii, 61–62, 63, 123
nonconformity and, 115
as photographer, 94, 222
surfboards of, 25, 64–65, 72, 75, 82, 100, 101
as surfer, 61, 110
trophy of, 80
during World War II, 88
Blank Monday, 467–68
Blears, Laura, 279, 321, 343
Blue Crush, 421, 428, 456
Blum, Eric and Lowell, 249
Bodyboards, 268–69
Bodysurfing, 26, 57, 66, 69
Bondi Beach, 134, 199, 365, 396
Bondi Surf Club, 87, 134
Bonzer, 356
Boogie boards, 268–69
Boren, Lew, 361–62
Botha, Wendy, 418
Boyd, Duke, 293
Boyer, Lynn, 279, 343, 345
Boyum, Bill and Mike, 307–10
Bradner, Hugh, 170
Bradshaw, Ken, 11, 410, 411, 435, 436, 439, 441, 460
Brady, Leonard, 403, 407
Branson, Matt, 461
Brazil, 398, 399, 400–402
Breath (Winton), 454
Brennan, Kevin, 256
Brewer, Art, 257, 380
Brewer, Dick, 143, 250, 251, 253, 254, 283, 289, 340, 356
Briggs, Barney, 175
Britvich, Ron, 445
Brock, Chris, 271
Brotherhood of Eternal Love, 254
Brown, Bobby, 211
Brown, Bruce, 122, 138, 177, 187, 196, 229–31, 232, 233, 239, 283, 286–88, 302
Brown, Dana, 454
Brown, Woody, 86, 87, 88–89, 127, 140, 145, 162
Browne, Bud, 137–38, 139, 176, 209, 266, 286, 359
Browns, 82, 83
Bryan, Bill “Beaker,” 476
Buckley, Stan, 162
Buran, Joey, 369
Burleigh, 324
Burnside, Bob, 136
Burridge, Pam, 391
Burrow, Taj, 457, 469
Butler, Charlie, 88
Butte, Myers, 71
Byrne, Chris, 401
Byron Bay, 248, 269, 271–72
C
Caballitos, 18–19, 20, 21
Cabell, Joey, 185, 187, 192, 212, 213, 284
Cable Station, 472
Cairns, Ian, 275, 317–18, 320, 321, 330, 332, 359, 368, 373, 376, 392, 405
Calhoun, Candy, 226
Calhoun, Marge, 148, 226
Calhoun, Robin, 226
California. See also individual locations
boardmakers in, 165
in the eighties, 370, 372
in the Great Depression, 66–67, 71–72, 75–76, 78, 80–81
introduction of surfing to, 47–50, 52
in the Jazz Age, 59–61
localism and, 263–64, 266
in the seventies, 262–64, 321
suburbia of, 95, 97, 159, 161
California Surfriders (Ball), 94, 95, 109, 222
Calvacanti, Rosaldo, 402
Campbell, Malcolm and Duncan, 356
Canha, Conrad, 284
Cape St. Francis, 230–33, 302, 332
Carey, Gabrielle, 343
Carey, John “Bull,” 214
Carper, John, 465
Carroll, Corky, 227, 263, 313, 314
Carroll, Nick, 310, 363, 422
Carroll, Tom, 362–63, 364, 365, 367, 387, 397, 398, 423, 475
Carson, David, 449
Carson, Lance, 120, 227, 395
Cassidy, Claire, 104, 107, 108
Cassidy, Graham, 317, 394
Castle Break, 83, 124
Catri, Dick, 215, 217
Caught Inside (Duane), 453, 454, 456
Cazenave, Sylvain, 379
Center, George “Dad,” 52
Chandler, Otis, 377
Chang, Aaron, 379, 380
Channon, Bruce, 379
Chapin, Gard, 98, 100, 118
Chapman, Owl, 263
Charlton, Andrew “Boy,” 69
Chater, Angus, 380
Chesser, Todd, 443
China Beach Surf Club, 202–3, 204–5
Clark, Calvin “Tulie,” 71
Clark, Dave, 383, 385, 386
Clark, Dick, 188, 201
Clark, Gordon “Grubby,” 165–68, 201, 224, 467
Clark, Jeff, 433–34, 435
Clark Foam, 224, 389, 467–68
Cleary, Bill, 178, 228, 246
Clellon Holmes, John, 130
Cloudbreak, 383, 385–87
Club Waikiki, 132, 133–34
Cobra International, 468
Codgen, Claude, 215, 301
Colburn, Con, 165
Cole, Peter, 146, 148, 288, 338, 396, 407
Collier, Cass, 398
Collins, Jason “Ratboy,” 430
Collins, Sean, 376, 378–79, 449
Columbo, LeRoy, 214
Competitions, 60–61, 179–80, 182, 184–86, 223–24, 258–59, 314. See also Professional surfing; individual competitions
The Complete Book of Surfing (Dixon), 217
Conn
eeley, Robert, 213
Coogan, Jackie, 97
Cook, Captain James, 23, 29, 34, 56
Cooke, Alec, 407, 408–9, 438
Cooney, Steve, 306
Cooper, Bob, 118, 211, 273
Cooper, Gary, 125
Copeland, Bing, 226, 252
Cormican, Aaron “Gorkin,” 430
Cornel Wilde Gang, 134
Corona del Mar, 60, 66, 78, 95
Cortes Bank, 445
Cosmic Children, 266, 382
Couper, Gail, 318
Crabbe, Buster, 80
Crackenthorpe, Saxon, 69
Cram, Richard, 365
Crescent Head, 208
Crimo, Joe, 430
Crosby, Bing, 53, 56, 73
Cross, Dickie, 88–89, 143, 145
Cross, Jack, 89
Crystal Voyager, 291
Cunningham, Mark, 438
Curren, Jeanine, 368
Curren, Pat, 145–46, 147, 149, 162, 286, 368
Curren, Tom, 363, 367–68, 369–71, 372, 374–75, 397, 425
Cyclops, 445
D
Dale, Dick, 195, 196–97, 198, 201
Damm, Jon, 372
Daniels, William “Chick,” 52, 53, 123
Darren, James, 188, 190
David, Vetea, 398
Dee, Sandra, 188, 192
Delaney, Bill, 312, 336, 382, 383
De la Rosa, Luis Miguel “Magoo,” 398
De Rosnay, Joel, 133, 202
De Souza, Adriano, 459
Devries, Ralph, 202
Dewey Weber Classic, 350
Diffenderfer, Mike, 162, 287
Disney, 387, 475
Dittrich, Scott, 266
Divine, Jeff, 254
Dixon, Peter, 217
Doerner, Darrick, 409, 410, 436–37, 438, 439, 442
Dogny, Carlos, 133
Dooley, Mick, 209, 210
Dora, Mickey
as antihero, 11, 111, 115, 118, 120, 121, 122, 186, 187, 194, 226, 427
death of, 452
in films, 11, 188, 190
in France, 302
Los Angeles magazine’s profile of, 453
as surfer, 118, 119, 120
in surfing contests, 179, 186, 258–59
Dora, Miklos, Sr., 118
Dorian, Shane, 425
Douglas, Kirk, 125
Downing, George, 124, 125–27, 130, 140–43, 409, 443
Doyle, Mary, 174
Doyle, Mike, 174, 182, 201, 213, 227
Drouyn, Peter, 243, 274, 275, 278, 320, 324
Drugs, 238–39, 250, 254, 256–57, 301
Drummond, Ron, 66
Duane, Dan, 362, 442, 453, 454, 456
Duke Kahanamoku Invitational/Classic, 223–24, 279, 314
Durban, 229, 230, 331–32
Duvall, Robert, 359
E
Earhart, Amelia, 53, 81
East Coast (U.S.), 213–17
East Coast Surfing Championships, 185, 213, 214
Eaton, Mike, 351
Eberle, Jackie, 254
Eberly, Tom, 293
Edwards, Phil, 120, 168, 186, 187–88, 210, 214, 227–28, 244, 286–88
Edwards, Webly, 81
The History of Surfing Page 78
