Elfick, David, 273
Elkerton, Gary, 365, 366, 367, 387
Emerson, Nathaniel, 34
Empty Lot Boys, 82, 84, 87
Endless Summer, 122, 229–33, 288, 301, 303, 353, 382
Endless Summer II, 454
Environmental issues, 395–97, 468
Erikson, Roger, 407
Esposito, Mike, 318, 331
Evans, Bob, 135, 137, 209–12, 244, 306
Evolution, 259
F
Face height, 13
Fairbanks, Doug, 53
Falzon, Alby, 272–73, 306, 383
Fanning, Mick, 457, 458, 459, 472
Farrelly, Bernard “Midget”
on apartheid, 336
as boardmaker, 275
drugs and, 254
in films, 209, 211
income of, 314
as surfer, 210–11
in surfing contests, 210, 213, 243, 246, 273, 274
Nat Young and, 244, 247
Fast Times at Ridgemont High, 359, 361
Feigel, Robert, 191
Field, Sally, 189
Fiji, 383, 385–87
Fine Magazine for Surfer Girls, 327
Finnegan, William, 453
Finney, Ben, 22–23
Fish boards, 464
Fitzgerald, Terry, 275, 276–77, 278–79, 307, 317
Fitzgibbons, Sally, 463
Five Summer Stories, 266, 280
Flaxman, Vicki, 104, 107, 108
Fletcher, Christian, 429–30, 431
Fletcher, Herbie, 351, 353, 429, 438
Flood Control, 87, 95
Florida, 215, 423
Flowrider, 475–76
Foley, Jim, 243
Foo, Mark, 407, 410, 411, 433, 435–36, 438, 452
Ford, Alexander Hume, 44, 45, 47, 52, 55
France, 132, 133, 302, 400
Freeman, Jim, 266
Free Ride, 312, 336–37, 382
Freeth, George, 47–48, 49, 50, 52, 55, 97, 184, 213, 312, 369
Froiseth, Wally, 81–84, 86, 87, 124, 125, 126, 127, 143
Funicello, Annette, 189
Funk, Scott, 385, 386, 387
G
Gallant, Alfred, 218
Garcia, Sunny, 425, 457
George, Matt, 461
George, Sam, 369, 416–17, 419, 441, 450
Georgeson, Chelsea, 460
Gerlach, Brad, 372, 456
Gidget. See also Kohner, Kathy “Gidget”
book, 11, 158–59, 377
movie, 188–89, 190, 192
TV show, 189
Gilbert, George, 32
Gilgo Beach, 214–15, 216
Gillogly, Brian, 394
Gilmore, Stephanie, 461, 462
Girl boards, 104, 105, 107–8, 110
G-Land. See Grajagan
Global Surf Industries, 468
Gocher, William, 57
Godfrey, Arthur, 123
Godfrey, Margo. See Oberg, Margo
Going Surfin’, 266
Gold Coast, 278
Gomes, Abel, 112
Gomes, Johnny-Boy, 427, 428
Gordie Surfboards, 175, 185
Gordon, Larry, 226
Gotcha, 388, 390
Gouveia, Fabio, 401, 402
Grajagan (G-Land), 308, 309, 310, 383, 386
Grande Plage, 133
Grannis, LeRoy, 76, 180, 222–23
Grant, Cary, 52
Great Depression, 65–67, 69–72, 75–76, 78, 80–84, 86–87
Green, Alan, 274, 275, 390–91
Greenough, George, 239–40, 241–45, 246, 249, 290–91, 312, 359
Griffin, Rick, 222, 257, 290
Griffith, Diane, 107
Grigg, Ricky, 148, 224, 314, 407, 438, 445
Grigg, Robin, 107
Gunston 500, 331, 332, 336
H
Hakman, Jeff, 224, 254, 279–80, 313, 316, 317, 332, 390
Hale, Louis, 56
Haley, Jack, 185, 186
Haley, Mike, 186
Hamasaki, Joey, 226
Hamilton, Bethany, 452
Hamilton, Bill, 259, 263, 336, 359, 441
Hamilton, Laird, 436–37, 438, 439, 440, 441, 442, 443–45, 475
Hammond, John, 176
Hang Ten, 190, 191, 251, 267
Hannon, John, 214
Hansen, Don, 226
Hardman, Damien, 365, 391
Hardwick, Harold, 69
Harrison, Lorrin “Whitey,” 71, 80, 84, 95, 123
Hawaii. See also individual locations
annexation of, by U.S., 36
decline of surfing in, 32, 34–37
explorers in, 29, 31–32
in the Great Depression, 81–84, 86–87
localism and, 264
missionaries in, 34, 35–36
revival of surfing in, 42–45
settlement of, 22–23
in the seventies, 279–80, 283
shortboard in, 249–51
as surfers’ destination, 122–24
surfing in ancient, 18, 23–26, 28, 31–32
tourism and, 42–43, 81, 122–23
Hawaiian Surfboard (Blake), 61, 65
Hawaiian Surfing Movies, 137–38
Hawaiian Surfriders, 126, 179
Hawk, Sam, 263, 279
Hawke, Bob, 365, 398
Hawkins, Mary Ann, 67, 68, 69, 476
Hazard Canyon, 263
Heath, Fran, 81–82, 86, 87, 88
Hemmings, Fred
drugs and, 254
professional surfing and, 315, 316, 317, 318, 320, 324, 330, 338, 392
as surfer, 246, 249, 286
on surfing, 11, 279
in surfing contests, 249, 314, 316
Hendrix, Jimi, 197
Hening, Glenn, 395
Hermosa Beach, 111, 179, 197, 217
Herrin, Kym, 417
Herzog, Fred, 266
Heyerdahl, Thor, 21–22
Hild, Randy, 449
Hill, Samuel S., 37
Ho, Derek, 425, 457, 475
Ho, Michael, 279, 363
Hobgood, CJ, 459
Hobgood, Damien, 459
Hobie Surfboards, 164–68, 188, 217, 251, 252
Hodads, 194
Hoffman, Joyce, 192, 194, 226, 227, 245, 342, 417, 429
Hoffman, Marty, 433
Hoffman, Phillip “Flippy,” 127, 143, 438
Hoffman, Walter, 127, 429
Hogan, Bob, 175
Holland, Bob, 214
Hollywood-by-the-Sea, 263, 264, 266
Holmes, Paul, 356, 363
Honolua Bay, 240, 250–51, 254
Hoole, Dick, 452
Horan, Cheyne, 341, 357, 363, 373, 397, 398
Horne, David, 207
Hot curl design, 82–83, 86–87, 100
Hotdogging, 114–15
Hot Generation, 251, 362
Houston, James, 453
Hughes, Russell, 271, 275, 306, 362
Hui Nalu club, 45, 46–47, 52, 53, 55
Huntington, Henry, 49, 50
Huntington Beach, 178, 182–83, 184–85, 195, 217, 358, 373, 376
Hynd, Derek, 332, 417, 423, 438
Hynson, Mike, 230–33, 246, 253, 254
I
Ii, John Papa, 25
Indonesia, 303, 304–5, 306–12
Innermost Limits of Pure Fun, 290–91
In Search of Captain Zero (Weisbecker), 256
International Professional Surfers (IPS) tour, 312, 318, 320–21, 323–24, 327, 330–31, 343, 345, 362–63, 392
International Surf Carnival, 135–36
International Surfing Federation, 212–13
Irons, Andy, 426, 459
Irons, Bruce, 459
Isla Natividad, 383
J
Jackman, Dave, 210
Jacobs, Dudley “Hap,” 110, 114, 164, 252
Jaeckel, Richard, 97
James, Don, 87, 221, 222–23
Jan and Dean, 198, 201, 220, 386
/> Japan, 324, 325, 326–27
Jardine, Al, 197
Jarratt, Phil, 273, 338, 398
Java, 307–10
Jaws, 438–39, 442
Jeffreys Bay, 332, 334–35, 336
Johnson, Jack, 452
Jones, James, 405–6
Jordan, “Big Jim,” 214
K
Kahanamoku, David, 81
Kahanamoku, Duke. See also Duke Kahanamoku Invitational/Classic
in Australia, 56, 58–59, 69, 134, 205, 210
in California, 55, 184–85
death of, 123
early life of, 53, 55
on the East Coast, 55, 214
in Hawaii, 47, 53, 54, 55, 59, 81, 83
nightclub of, 223, 224
in the Olympics, 55
other surfers and, 67, 82, 133, 134
personality of, 61
surfboards of, 25, 62, 69, 70, 71, 82
in surf contests, 179
trunks of, 175
on waves, 283
Kahanamoku, Sam, 55, 62
Kalama, Dave, 439
Kamehameha I, King, 26, 28, 35
Kamehameha III, King, 37
Kampion, Drew, 239, 253, 257, 258, 279, 312
Kanaiaupuni, Barry, 249, 279–80, 282, 293, 320
Kaopuiki, Joseph “Scooter Boy,” 82, 114
Katin, Walter and Nancy, 174, 175
Katin Pro-Am, 373
Kawahara, Tak, 202, 324
Kealoha, Dane, 341, 392–93, 397
Keaulana, Richard “Buffalo,” 81
Keaweamani, “Tough Bill,” 50–51
Kechele, Matt, 428, 430
Kekai, Albert “Rabbit,” 82, 86–87, 108, 124, 125, 228, 286
Kelly, John, 81–84, 87, 88, 125, 378, 395
Kempton, Jim, 358
Kennelly, Keala, 460, 461
Keogh, Denny, 252
Kerbox, Buzzy, 436–37, 438
Kerr, Josh, 430
Keyo Surfboards, 275
Kidman, Andrew, 463
Killer Dana, 470
Killers, 433
King, Don, 380
King, James, 31–32
Kirra Point, 472
Kivlin, Matt, 104, 105, 107–8, 109, 112, 118, 123, 167
Knox, Taylor, 441
Kohner, Frederick, 157, 158–59, 188
Kohner, Kathy “Gidget,” 11, 157, 158, 159, 162
Koke, Robert, 305
Kon-Tiki, 21–22
K2 Big-Wave Challenge, 441
Kuga, Takao, 325
Kunze, Ray “The Enforcer,” 121
Kuta Beach, 305–6, 311
L
Laguna Beach, 195
Laine, Wes, 398
La Jolla, 162, 323, 404
Laverty, Bob, 307–8
Lawford, Peter, 97, 107, 134
Ledterman, Kurt, 351
Lee, Sammy, 284
Letham, Isabel, 59
Lette, Kathy, 343
Liddell, Mark, 381
Lightning Bold Surfboards, 293
Liliuokalani, Queen, 36, 84
Lind, John, 124
Linden, Gary, 372
Lis, Steve, 263, 340
Little, Brock, 409, 410, 435, 436
Localism, 122, 239, 263–64, 266
London, Charmain, 43, 44
London, Jack, 25, 37, 43, 44, 47, 52, 83, 369
Longboard revival, 350–51, 353–54
Lono, 24, 29
Lopes, Pepe, 400, 402
Lopez, Cory, 459, 476
Lopez, Gerry, 250, 291, 292, 293, 294–95, 307, 309, 316, 337, 359, 387
Lopez, Shea, 459
Lord, Lindsay, 100
Los Angeles, 48–50, 95, 97, 161, 171
Love, Mike, 197, 198
Lowe, Arthur, 57
Lueras, Leonard, 311
Lunada Bay, 263
Lyman, Chester, 32
Lynch, Barton, 365, 391
Lynch, Wayne, 259, 260–61, 272, 301, 307
Lyons, “Splash,” 50–51
M
MacAulay, Dave, 365
MacGillivray, Greg, 266, 383
Machado, Rob, 425–26
Magazines, 175–79, 220, 222–23, 273, 379, 449–51. See also individual magazines
Makaha, 83–84, 86, 87, 112–13, 125–30, 131, 140–43, 227, 403, 405
Makaha International Surfing Championships, 141, 142, 179, 180, 182, 185, 210, 211, 378
Malibu
as boardriding-only beach, 195–96
decline of, 120–22
environmental issues at, 395
public access to, 60
style, 108
surfers at, 76, 96–97, 98, 106–7, 111–12, 114–15, 116, 117–18, 119, 157, 160
waves at, 108–11
during World War II, 87
Malibu chips, 107, 108, 167
Mamala, 24
Mancini, Henry, 196
Manhattan Beach, 111, 175, 350
Manly Beach, 134, 135, 212–13, 396
Manly Beach Surf School, 422
Martin, Larry, 204–5
Marui, 327, 362–63
Massara, Mark, 396
Masters, 314, 315, 316
Mauritius, 302
Mauro, Chris, 378, 468
Maverick’s, 12, 432, 433–36, 439, 443, 452
Mayes, Jack “Bluey,” 134, 210
McAlister, Charles “Snowy,” 70, 71, 134
McCabe, Peter, 309
McClelland, Brennan “Hevs,” 182
McCoy, Geoff, 275, 340, 356
McCoy, Jack, 444, 452
McHenry, Eric, 430
McKay, Jim, 315
McKnight, Bob, 390–91
McLeod, Hugh, 379
McNamara, Garrett, 476–77
McNulty, Patrick, 249
McTavish, Bob, 242–46, 247, 249–51, 254, 271, 274, 291, 351
McVay, Kimo, 223–24
Mearig, Kim, 372
Meistrell, Bill, 110, 171
Meistrell, Bob, 171
Mel, Peter, 435
Menczer, Pauline, 418
Menda, Ketut, 311
Merchant, Gordon, 275
Merkel, Dan, 312, 382
Merrick, Al, 372, 469
Merrill, Linda, 226
Metz, Dick, 231
Milius, John, 359
Millennium Wave, 444–45
Miller, Edward Kaleleihealani “Dude,” 52–53, 53
Miller, Rusty, 185, 188, 204, 223, 271, 272, 306
Miller, Sonny, 452
Miyata, Wayne, 284
Momentum, 451
Monroe, Marilyn, 98
Moore, Carassa, 463
Moore, Hy, 257
Moorehouse, Vince, 185
Morey, Tom, 268, 314
Morgan, Bev, 110, 170, 172
Moriarity, Jay, 435
Morning of the Earth, 266, 272–73, 307, 382
Morris, Vic, 378
Morris, Willy, 373
Morrissey, Bud, 67
Mount Reef, 472, 473
Movies, 137–40, 176–77, 188–90, 196, 209–10, 229–33, 266–67, 272–73, 359, 361, 382–83, 451–52, 454, 456. See also individual movies
Mozo, Jon, 380
Mulanovich, Sofia, 460
Munoz, Mickey, 149, 150, 151, 169, 172, 243, 314
Munro, Mimi, 215 Murphy, 222, 257
Music, 196–98, 201, 266–67
Myers, Nathan, 469
N
Narmada, Gede, 311
Narrabeen, 264, 266
Narrowneck, 472
National Scholastic Surfing Association (NSSA), 368
Naughton, Kevin, 302–3, 385, 386
Nazi imagery, 162
Neilsen, Paul, 275
Nellis, Tom, 293
Nelson, Chad, 473
Newbreak, 263
New School, 425, 451
Nii, Minoru, 176
Niven, David, 111
Noll, Greg
as filmmaker, 138, 177
in
films, 190
at the International Surf Carnival, 135, 136, 145
last big wave of, 403, 405
nickname of, 18
as rebel, 161, 162
as surfer, 143, 144, 145, 148, 149, 151
surf shop of, 217, 252
North Shore. See also individual locations
early history of, 84, 86, 88–89
localism and, 264
surfers at, 143, 145–46, 148–49, 151, 279–80, 282, 283, 320
violence at, 320
waves at, 84, 145, 306, 433
Noseriding, 227–28, 314
Nunn, Kem, 256, 453
Nuuhiwa, David, 227, 228–29, 245–46, 249, 253–54, 258, 259, 263, 350–51
O
Oberg, Margo (Godfrey), 263, 279, 324, 342, 343, 344, 345, 460
Occhilupo, Mark, 365, 366, 367, 372, 374, 456–57
Ocean Dome, 473
Ocean Pacific, 267, 373, 388, 390
O’Donell, Phyllis, 213
Off-the-Wall, 336, 339, 381, 392–93, 424
Okano, Norihiko, 326
Olos, 25
O’Neill, Jack, 171, 172–73
O’Neill, Pat, 267
Op Pro, 373, 374–75, 376
Orlean, Susan, 421
Ottum, Bob, 187
Ours, 445
Outrigger Canoe Club, 44–45, 52, 62, 124
Outside Log Cabins, 439, 441, 460
P
Paarman, Jonathan, 331
Pacific Coast Championships, 60–61, 64, 78, 80, 94, 179, 180
Pacific System Homes, 71–72, 82, 102
Pacific Vibrations, 266, 292
Padang-Padang, 307, 310
Padaratz, Flavio, 400, 401, 402
Page, Brant, 449
Paiea, 28
Paipo boards, 25
Pakarati, Kio, 204
Paki, Kuho’oheihei “Abner,” 84
Palos Verdes Cove, 75, 77, 94, 98, 111, 358
Palos Verdes Surf Club, 74–75, 76, 77, 109
Park, Sarah, 130
Parkinson, Joel, 457, 472
Parmenter, Dave, 442, 464
Parowax, 218
Parrish, Tom, 293
Parson, Mike, 435
Paskowitz, Dorian, 202
Paskowitz, Israel and Jonathan, 351
Paterson, Charlie, 58, 70
Patterson, Bobby “Flea,” 162
Patterson, Ronald, 224
Paull, Keith, 275, 332
Peck, Gregory, 125
Peck, John, 226, 287, 288
Penn, Sean, 359, 361
Peralta, Stacy, 454
Perry, Mike, 368
Peru, 18–19, 21–22, 132, 133–34, 243, 460
Peru International, 182
Peterson, Craig, 302–3, 386
Peterson, Michael, 275–76, 278, 279, 318, 324, 329, 331
Peterson, Pete, 71, 80, 88, 95, 104, 105, 110, 123, 245
Peterson, Tommy, 278
Pezman, Steve, 258, 449–50
Photography, 65, 94, 140–41, 222–23, 279, 379–80, 445
The History of Surfing Page 79
