A Journey to the Northern Ocean

by Samuel Hearne

  MICE are in great plenty and variety in all parts of Hudson’s Bay; the marshes being inhabited by one species, and the dry ridges by another. The Shrew Mouse is frequently found in Beaver houses during Winter, where they not only find a warm habitation, but also pick up a comfortable livelihood from the scraps left by the Beaver. Most of the other species build or make nests of dry grass of such a size and thickness, that when covered with snow, they must be sufficiently warm. They all feed on grass in general, but will also eat animal food when they can get it. The Hair-tailed Mouse is the largest in the Northern parts of the Bay, being little inferior in size to a common rat. They always burrow under stones, on dry ridges; are very inoffensive, and so easily tame, that if taken when full-grown, some of them will in a day or two be perfectly reconciled, and are so fond of being handled, that they will creep about your neck or into your bosom. In Summer they are grey, and in Winter change to white, but are by no means so beautiful as a white ermine. At that season they are infested with multitudes of small lice, not a sixth part so large as the mites in a cheese; in fact, they are so small, that at first sight they only appear like reddish-brown dust, but on closer examination are all perceived in motion. In one large and beautiful animal of this kind, caught in the depth of Winter, I found those little vermin so numerous about it, that almost every hair was covered with them as thick as ropes with onions, and when they approached near the ends of the hair they may be said to change the mouse from white to a faint brown. At that time I had an excellent microscope, and endeavoured to examine them, and to ascertain their form, but the weather was so exceedingly cold, that the glasses became damp with the moisture of my breath before I could get a single sight. The hind-feet of these Mice are exactly like those of a Bear, and the fore-feet are armed with a horny substance, (that I never saw in any other species of the Mouse,) which is wonderfully adapted for scraping away the ground where they wish to take up their abode. They are plentiful on some of the stony ridges near Churchill Factory, but never approach the house, or any of the out-offices. From appearances they are very local, and seldom stray far from their habitations even in Summer, and in Winter they are seldom seen on the surface of the snow; a great proof of their being provident in Summer to lay by a stock for that season.

  Pinnated Quadrupeds

  With respect to the Pinnated Quadrupeds with fin-like feet, there are but few species in Hudson’s Bay. The Walrus, or Sea-Horse, and Seals, are the only ones that I know.

  The WALRUS are numerous about Merry and Jones’s Islands, but more so on a small island called Sea-Horse Island, that lies in the fair way going to Whale Cove. In July one thousand seven hundred and sixty-seven, when on my voyage to the North of Churchill River, in passing Sea-Horse Island, we saw such numbers of those animals lying on the shore, that when some swivel guns loaded with ball were fired among them, the whole beach seemed to be in motion. The greatest part of them plunged into the water, and many of them swam round the vessel within musket-shot. Every one on board exerted their skill in killing them, but it was attended with so little success, that the few which were killed sunk to the bottom; and those which were mortally wounded made off out of our reach.

  With what propriety those animals are called Horses, I cannot see; for there is not the least resemblance in any one part. Their bodies, fins, etc, are exactly like those of an enormous Seal, and the head is not very unlike that animal, except that the nose is much broader, to give room for the two large tusks that project from the upper jaw. Those tusks, and their red sparkling eyes, make them have a very fierce and formidable appearance. They are generally found in considerable numbers, which indicate their love of society; and their affection for each other is very apparent, as they always flock round those that are wounded, and when they sink, accompany them to the bottom, but soon rise to the surface, and make a hideous roaring, and of all amphibious animals, they are at times the least sensible of danger from man that I know.

  They often attack small boats merely through wantonness, and not only put the people in great confusion, but subject them to great danger; for they always aim at staving the boat with their tusks, or endeavour to get in, but are never known to hurt the people. In the year one thousand seven hundred and sixty-six some of the sloop’s crew, who annually sail to the North to trade with the Esquimaux, were attacked by a great number of those animals; and notwithstanding their utmost endeavours to keep them off, one more daring than the rest, though a small one, got in over the stern, and after sitting and looking at the people some time, he again plunged into the water to his companions. At that instant another, of an enormous size, was getting in over the bow; and every other means proving ineffectual to prevent such an unwelcome visit, the bowman took up a gun, loaded with goose-shot, put the muzzle into the Horse’s mouth, and shot him dead; he immediately sunk, and was followed by all his companions. The people then made the best of their way to the vessel, and just arrived before the Sea-Horses were ready to make their second attack, which in all probability might have been worse than the first, as they seemed much enraged at the loss of their companion.

  Those animals are of various sizes, according to age and other circumstances; some are not larger than an old Seal, but there are those among them that are not less than two ton weight.

  The skin and teeth are the most valuable parts to the natives; for the fat is hard and grisly, and the flesh coarse, black, and tough.

  Those animals are seldom found on the continent which borders on Hudson’s Bay, or far up, in bays, rivers, or inlets, but usually frequent small islands, and sea-girt shoals, at some distance from the main land; but as those places are frozen over for many miles during Winter, it is natural to think they keep at the edge of the water among the driving ice during that season. They are supposed to feed chiefly on marine plants, and perhaps on shell-fish, for their excrement is exceedingly offensive.

  SEALS of various sizes and colours are common in most parts of Hudson’s Bay, but most numerous to the North. Some of those animals are beautifully speckled, black and white; others are of a dirty grey. The former are generally small, but some of the latter arrive at an amazing size, and their skins are of great use to the Esquimaux; as it is of them they cover their canoes, make all their boot-legs and shoes, besides many other parts of their clothing. The Seal-skins are also of great use to those people as a substitute for casks, to preserve oil, etc. for Winter use; they are also blown full of wind and dried, and then used as buoys on the whale-fishery. The flesh and fat of the Seal is also more esteemed by the Esquimaux than those of any other marine animal, salmon not excepted.

  Besides these, the SEA-UNICORN is known to frequent Hudson’s Bay and Straits, but I never saw one of them. Their horns are frequently purchased from our friendly Esquimaux, who probably get them in the way of barter from those tribes that reside more to the North; but I never could be informed by the natives whether their skins are like those of the Whale, or hairy like those of the Seal; I suppose the former.

  Species of Fish

  The Fish that inhabit the salt water of Hudson’s Bay are but few: —the Black Whale, White Whale, Salmon, and a small fish called Kepling, are the only species of sea-fish in those parts.(8)

  The BLACK WHALE is sometimes found as far South as Churchill River, and I was present at the killing of three there; but this was in the course of twenty years. To the Northward, particularly near Marble Island, they are more plentiful; but notwithstanding the Company carried on a fishery in that quarter, from the year one thousand seven hundred and sixty-five till one thousand seven hundred and seventy-two, they were so far from making it answer their expectations, that they sunk upwards of twenty thousand pounds; which is the less to be wondered at, when we consider the great inconveniencies and expences they laboured under in such an undertaking. For as it was impossible to prosecute it from England, all the people employed on that service were obliged to reside at their settlement all the year at extravagant wages, exclusive of their mainten
ance. The harpooners had no less than fifty pounds per annum standing wages, and none of the crew less than from fifteen to twenty-five pounds; which, together with the Captains salaries, wear and tear of their vessels, and other contingent expences, made it appear on calculation, that if there were a certainty of loading the vessels every year, the Company could not clear themselves. On the contrary, during the seven years they persevered in that undertaking, only four Black Whales were taken near Marble Island; and, except one, they were so small, that they would not have been deemed payable fish in the Greenland service.(9) But the Hudson’s Bay Company, with a liberality that does honour to them, though perfectly acquainted with the rules observed in the Greenland service, gave the same premium for a sucking fish, as for one of the greatest magnitude.

  WHITE WHALES are very plentiful in those parts, particularly from Chesterfield’s Inlet to York Fort, or Hay’s River, on the West side of the Bay; and from Cape Smith to Slude River on the East side. On the West coast they are generally found in the greatest numbers at the mouths of the principal rivers; such as Seal River, Churchill, Port Nelson, and Hay’s Rivers. But the East side of the Bay not being so well known, Whale River is the only part they are known to frequent in very considerable numbers. Some years ago the Company had a settlement at this river, called Richmond Fort; but all their endeavours to establish a profitable fishery here proved ineffectual, and the few Indians who resorted to it with furrs proving very inadequate to the expences, the Company determined to evacuate it. Accordingly, after keeping up this settlement for upward of twelve years, and sinking many thousands of pounds, they ordered it to be burnt, for the more easily getting the spikes and other iron-work. This was in the year one thousand seven hundred and fifty-eight.

  At the old established Factories on the West side of the Bay, the Company have been more successful in the White Whale fishery, particularly at Churchill, where such of the Company’s servants as cannot be employed during that season to more benefit for the Company, are sent on that duty, and in some successful years they send home from eight to thirteen tons of fine oil. To encourage a spirit of industry among those employed on this service, the Company allows a gratuity, not only to the harpooners, but to every man that sails in the boats; and this gratuity is so ample as to inspire them with emulation, as they well know that the more they kill, the greater will be their emolument.

  SALMON are in some seasons very numerous on the North West side of Hudson’s Bay, particularly at Knapp’s Bay and Whale Cove. At the latter I once found them so plentiful, that had we been provided with a sufficient number of nets, casks, and salt, we might soon have loaded the vessel with them. But this is seldom the case, for in some years they are so scarce, that it is with difficulty a few meals of them can be procured during our stay at those harbours. They are in some years so plentiful near Churchill River, that I have known upward of two hundred fine fish taken out of four small nets in one tide within a quarter of a mile of the Fort; but in other years they are so scarce, that barely that number have been taken in upward of twenty nets during the whole season, which generally begins the latter end of June, and ends about the middle or latter end of August.

  Beside the fish already mentioned, I know of no other that inhabits the salt water except the KEPLING, which is a small fish about the size of a smelt, but most excellent eating. In some years they resort to the shores near Churchill River in such multitudes to spawn, and such numbers of them are left dry among the rocks, as at times to be quite offensive. In other seasons they are so scarce, that hardly a meal can be procured.

  The same remark may be made on almost every species of game, which constitutes the greatest part of the fare of the people residing in those parts. For instance, in some years, hundreds of deer may easily be killed within a mile of York Fort; and in others, there is not one to be seen within twenty or thirty miles. One day thousands and tens of thousands of geese are seen, but the next they all raise flight, and go to the North to breed. Salmon, as I have lately observed, is so plentiful in some years at Churchill River, that it might be procured in any quantity; at others, so scarce as to be thought a great delicacy.

  In fact, after twenty years residence in this country, I am persuaded that whoever relies much on the produce of the different seasons, will frequently be deceived, and occasionally expose himself and men to great want.

  To remedy this evil, it is most prudent for those in command to avail themselves of plentiful seasons, and cure a sufficient quantity of the least perishable food, particularly geese.

  Shell Fish

  SHELL FISH of a variety of kinds are also found in some parts of Hudson’s Bay. Muscles in particular are in great abundance on the rocky shores near Churchill River, and what is vulgarly called the Periwinkle are very plentiful on the rocks which dry at low-water. Small Crabs and Star-fish are frequently thrown on the shore by the surf in heavy gales of wind; and the empty shells of Wilks, small Scallops, Cockles, and many other kinds, are to be found on the beaches in great plenty. The same may be said of the interior parts of the country, where the banks of the lakes and rivers abound with empty shells of various kinds; but the fish themselves have never been discovered by the natives.

  Frogs, Grubs, and other Insects

  FROGS of various colours are numerous in those parts as far North as the latitude 61°. They always frequent the margins of lakes, ponds, rivers, and swamps: and as the Winter approaches, they burrow under the moss, at a considerable distance from the water, where they remain in a frozen state till the Spring. I have frequently seen them dug up with the moss, (when pitching tents in Winter,) frozen as hard as ice: in which state the legs are as easily broken off as a pipe-stem, without giving the least sensation to the animal; but by wrapping them up in warm skins, and exposing them to a slow fire, they soon recover life, and the mutilated animal gains its usual activity; but if they are permitted to freeze again, they are past all recovery, and are never more known to come to life. The same may be said of the various species of Spiders, and all the Grub kind, which are very numerous in those parts. I have seen thousands of them dug up with the moss, when we were pitching our tents in the Winter; all of which were invariably enclosed in a thick web, which Nature teaches them to spin on those occasions; yet they were apparently all frozen as hard as ice,. The Spiders, if let fall from any height on a hard substance, would rebound like a grey pea; and all the Grub kind are so hard frozen as to be as easily broken as a piece of ice of the same size; yet when exposed to a slow heat, even in the depth of Winter, they will soon come to life, and in a short time recover their usual motions.

  Birds

  The feathered creation that resort to those parts in the different seasons are numerous, but such as brave the severe Winter are but few in number, and shall be particularly noticed in their proper places.

  EAGLES of several sorts are found in the country bordering on Hudson’s Bay during the Summer; but none, except the common brown Fishing Eagle, ever frequent the Northern parts. They always make their appearance in those dreary regions about the latter end of March or beginning of April, and build their nests in lofty trees, in the crevices of inaccessible rocks near the banks of rivers. They lay but two eggs, (which are white,) and frequently bring but one young. They generally feed on fish, which they catch as they are swimming near the surface; but they are very destructive to the muskrat and hares, as also to geese and ducks, when in a moulting state, and frequently kill young beaver. Their nests are very large, frequently six feet in diameter; and before their young can fly, are so provident, that the Indians frequently take a most excellent meal of fish, flesh, and fowl from their larder. Though they bring forth their young so early as the latter end of May, or the beginning of June, yet they never fly till September; a little after which they migrate to the Southward. They are the most ravenous of any bird I know; for when kept in confinement, or in a tame state as it may be called, I have know two of them eat more than a bushel of fish in a day. They are never k
nown to breed on the barren grounds to the North of Churchill River, though many of the lakes and rivers in those parts abound with variety of fish. This is probably owing to the want of trees or high rocks to build in. The Northern Indians are very partial to the quill-feathers of the Eagle, as well as to those of the hawk, to wing or plume their arrows with, out of superstitious notion that they have a greater effect than if winged with the feathers of geese, cranes, crows, or other birds, that in fact would do equally as well. The flesh of the Eagle is usually eaten by most of the Indians, but is always black, hard, and fishy; even the young ones, when in a callow state, though the flesh is delicate white, are so rank as to render them very unpleasant to some persons, except in times of necessity.

  HAWKS of various sizes and plumage frequent the different parts of the country round Hudson’s Bay during Summer. Some of those Hawks are so large as to weigh three pounds, and others so small as not to exceed five or six ounces. But the weight of those, as well as every other species of Birds, is not standard for the Naturalist to go by; for at different seasons, and when in want of food, they are often scarcely half the weight they are when fat and in good order. Notwithstanding the variety of hawks that resort to those parts in Summer, I know but one species that brave the intense cold of the long Winters to the North of Churchill River; and that is what Mr. Pennant calls the Sacre Falcon. They, like the other large species of Hawks, prey much on the white grouse or partridge, and also on the American hare, usually called here Rabbits. They are always found to frequent those parts where partridges are plentiful, and are detested by the sportsmen, as they generally drive all the game off the ground near their tents; but, in return, they often drive thither fresh flocks of some hundreds. Notwithstanding this, they so frequently baulk those who are employed on the hunting service, that the Governors generally give a reward of a quart of brandy for each of their heads. Their flesh is always eaten by the Indians, and sometimes by the English; but it is always black, hard, and tough, and sometimes has a bitter taste.