Terra : Cooking from the Heart of Napa Valley (9780307815323)
Page 6
Serves 4
Use only absolutely fresh sashimi-grade fish, since it is served raw, and don’t add the vinaigrette until the last minute because the acid in the vinaigrette will “cook” the fish, turning it opaque and milky-colored. Tobiko caviar—especially the wasabi-flavored kind—can be hard to find, but it’s worth looking for. Its crunchy texture makes a perfect contrast to the soft, silky tartare. Sambal chili is an Indonesian or Malaysian hot chili paste available in Asian markets.
Sesame Tuile
2 tablespoons sesame seeds
¼ teaspoon sugar
Pinch of salt
Pinch of cayenne pepper
1 egg white
2 teaspoons cornstarch
4 wonton wrappers
Vegetable oil for deep-frying
Spicy Lemon-Ginger Vinaigrette
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
1½ teaspoons rice vinegar
1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon soy sauce
1 teaspoon sambal chili
⅛ teaspoon grated peeled fresh ginger
⅛ teaspoon grated garlic
1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon Asian (toasted) sesame oil
Ponzu Mayonnaise (optional)
½ teaspoon ponzu
2 tablespoons mayonnaise
Tobiko Oil
1 tablespoon wasabi tobiko
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
Tartare
6 ounces sashimi grade tuna fillet, cut into ¼-inch dice
6 ounces sashimi grade salmon fillet, cut into ¼-inch dice
1 teaspoon finely chopped red onion
2 teaspoons minced fresh chives
3 tablespoons tomato concassée
4 teaspoons wasabi tobiko (optional)
1 cup upland cress or daikon sprouts, rinsed and drained, for garnish
TO MAKE THE TUILES, combine the sesame seeds, sugar, salt, and cayenne in a shallow bowl. In a small bowl, whisk together the egg white and cornstarch. Thinly brush one side of each wrapper with the egg white mixture. Press the wrappers, brushed side down, on the sesame mixture. Heat 1 inch of oil in a deep, heavy pot to 310°. Deep-fry the wrappers for about 2 minutes per side, until golden brown. Using a wire-mesh skimmer or slotted metal spoon, transfer to paper towels to drain.
TO MAKE THE VINAIGRETTE, whisk together all the ingredients in a small bowl. Set aside.
TO MAKE THE MAYONNAISE, whisk together the ponzu and mayonnaise in a small bowl, and set aside.
TO MAKE THE TOBIKO OIL, whisk together the wasabi tobiko and extra virgin olive oil in a small bowl, and set aside.
TO MAKE THE TARTARE, just before serving, combine all the ingredients in a medium bowl. Add the vinaigrette and mix well.
TO SERVE, place a 3-inch-diameter, 1¼-inch-high ring mold in the center of a chilled plate and fill with the tartare. Press down lightly. Carefully remove the ring and repeat with the remaining tartare. Divide the upland cress into 6 tumbleweed-shaped balls and put one on top of each circle of tartare. Drizzle the mayonnaise around the tartare. Drizzle the tobiko oil around the mayonnaise. Place a tuile next to each tartare.
Goat Cheese and Artichoke Spring Rolls with Arugula and Tomato Salad
Serves 4
Although these delicate spring rolls are fried, their texture and flavor are surprisingly light. We sometimes make them a little smaller and serve them as passed cocktail appetizers. Lumpia wrappers can usually be found in the refrigerator section of Filipino or Asian markets.
Spring Rolls
¾ cup fresh goat cheese without a rind
⅓ cup cold mashed potatoes
¼ cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
½ cup coarsely chopped cooked baby artichokes, lightly squeezed to remove water
½ teaspoon chopped fresh basil
Pinch of freshly ground white pepper
2 teaspoons cornstarch
1 egg white
8 lumpia wrappers (6 inches square)
Whole-Grain Mustard Vinaigrette
4 teaspoons sherry wine vinegar
4 teaspoons extra virgin olive oil
2 teaspoons whole-grain mustard
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
Vegetable oil for deep-frying
Arugula and Tomato Salad
8 cups loosely packed baby arugula
1 cup ½-inch-diced peeled tomato
1 tablespoon thinly sliced red onion
Garnish
12 kalamata olives
2 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan cheese
TO MAKE THE FILLING, in a mixer using a paddle attachment, combine the goat cheese, potatoes, Parmesan, artichokes, basil, and pepper, and beat until well incorporated, 2 to 3 minutes.
TO ASSEMBLE THE SPRING ROLLS, in a small bowl whisk together the cornstarch and egg white to make an egg wash. Divide the filling into 8 cylinders, each 1 inch thick and 3 inches long. Lay out a wrapper in a diamond shape on a work surface. Place a goat cheese cylinder horizontally on the bottom third of the wrapper. Bring the bottom point up over the goat cheese and tuck the point underneath it. Begin rolling tightly until you reach the side points, then fold the sides in at a neat angle. Continue rolling until there is a triangle about 2 inches from the top. Brush the edges of the wrapper with the egg wash and complete rolling. Transfer to a baking sheet pan, seam side down. Cover with a towel and refrigerate. Repeat with the remaining wrappers.
TO MAKE THE VINAIGRETTE, whisk together the ingredients in a small bowl. Preheat the oven to 250°.
TO DEEP-FRY THE SPRING ROLLS, heat 3 inches of oil in a deep, heavy pot to 360°. Deep-fry the spring rolls 2 at a time until golden brown, 3 to 4 minutes. Using tongs, transfer the spring rolls to paper towels to drain, then place them on a baking sheet pan and keep warm in the oven.
WHILE THE SPRING ROLLS ARE COOKING, toss the salad ingredients with the vinaigrette in a medium bowl. Divide the salad among 4 plates and top each with 2 spring rolls. Arrange the olives around the spring rolls and sprinkle the rolls with Parmesan cheese.
At Laura Chenel’s Goat Farm
Warm Scallop Salad with Lemon-Coriander Vinaigrette
Serves 4
“Warm” is the key to this delightful dish. The scallops are just barely cooked, then dressed with a warm vinaigrette that brings out their sweetness. Because they’re served almost raw, it’s important that the scallops be sashimi grade and very fresh. Be careful to avoid overcooking them; they’re ready when their tops have just turned white. Even if they look a little too raw, remember that the warm plate and the dressing will continue to cook them.
1 pound large sashimi grade sea scallops, hinge muscle removed
Lemon-Coriander Vinaigrette
1 teaspoon coriander seeds
½ cup extra virgin olive oil
¼ cup freshly squeezed lemon juice
Salt and freshly ground white pepper to taste
¼ cup tomato concassée
2 tablespoons minced fresh chives
⅓ cup chervil sprigs, for garnish
RINSE THE SCALLOPS in cold water and pat dry with paper towels. Slice the scallops into ¼-inch-thick discs. Divide the scallops among 4 chilled 8 to 10-inch rimmed plates, arranging them in a single layer starting from the center of the plate. Try to cover the entire inside surface of each plate with scallops; they should be touching slightly. Cover each plate with plastic wrap and refrigerate.
TO START THE VINAIGRETTE, toast the coriander seeds in a small sauté pan or skillet over high heat for about 1 minute, or until fragrant. Transfer immediately to a bowl to stop the cooking. Let the pan cool slightly, then add the olive oil, lemon juice, coriander seeds, salt, and pepper, and whisk well. Whisk in the tomato concassée.
TO SERVE, preheat the oven to 450°. Remove the plastic wrap from the plates. Set the plates in the oven and heat until the surface of the scallops just start to turn opaque but the inside is still raw; this can take as little as 30 seconds, depending on your oven. Meanwhile,
finish the vinaigrette by warming it in the sauté pan over medium heat, but don’t let it boil. Remove from the heat and stir in the chives. Spoon the vinaigrette over the warmed scallops, scatter the chervil sprigs on top, and serve immediately.
Choosing Good Scallops
SCALLOPS ARE OFTEN TREATED WITH A PRESERVATIVE TO INCREASE THEIR SHELF LIFE AND WATER CONTENT; IF YOU FIND SCALLOPS SITTING IN A POOL OF MILKY LIQUID, AND THEY’RE VERY WHITE AND FIRM, CHANCES ARE THEY’VE BEEN PROCESSED IN THIS WAY. A GOOD SCALLOP, WHETHER FRESH OR PREVIOUSLY FROZEN, WILL BE TRANSLUCENT AND HAVE A SLIGHT PINKISH-ORANGE COLOR; IT WILL ALSO BE SOFT, AND NOT PERFECTLY SHAPED.
Dungeness Crab Salad with Avocado Mousse, Beets, and Ruby Grapefruit
Serves 4
Crab and avocado is one of those classic combinations that always seems to work. It looks dressed up, but it’s actually quite easy to put together. Like so many restaurant dishes, what makes it seem a little more sophisticated is the presentation. If you don’t have access to Dungeness crab, you can also use blue crab.
Crab Salad
1 pound fresh lump Dungeness crabmeat, picked over for shell
2 teaspoons minced red onion
⅓ cup finely diced celery
¼ teaspoon chopped fresh basil
½ cup mayonnaise, or store bought
3 tablespoons tomato concassée
Avocado Mousse
1 ripe avocado, peeled, pitted, and coarsely chopped
Juice from ½ lime
¼ teaspoon coarsely chopped fresh cilantro
Pinch of grated garlic
2 tablespoons sour cream
Salt and freshly ground white pepper to taste
2 golf ball–sized red beets, steamed, peeled, and cut into 6 wedges
12 Ruby Red grapefruit segments
24 Sun Gold, Sweet 100, or other cherry tomatoes, stemmed
2 tablespoons Whole-Grain Mustard Vinaigrette
1 teaspoon chopped fresh chives
8 fresh cilantro sprigs
TO MAKE THE CRAB SALAD, combine all the ingredients in a medium bowl. Refrigerate for no more than 30 minutes.
TO MAKE THE AVOCADO MOUSSE, put the avocado, lime juice, cilantro, and garlic in a food processor and puree until smooth. Add the sour cream and process until smooth. Season with salt and pepper.
TO ASSEMBLE THE SALADS, place a 3-inch-diameter, 1½-inch-high ring mold in the center of each of 4 chilled plates and fill three-quarters full with the crab salad; smooth the top. Fill the rest of the ring with the avocado mousse, smooth the top with the back of a knife, then carefully remove the ring. Repeat with the remaining salads.
TO SERVE, alternate 3 beet wedges with 3 grapefruit segments and 6 tomatoes around each salad. Drizzle each with 1½ teaspoons of the vinaigrette, sprinkle with chives, and top each with 2 sprigs of cilantro.
To Segment Citrus
WITH A VERY SHARP SERRATED KNIFE, CUT THE TOP OFF THE FRUIT. CUT DOWN THE SIDES FROM THE TOP, SLICING JUST DEEP ENOUGH TO REMOVE THE PEEL AND WHITE PITH. FINALLY, CUT OFF THE BOTTOM. YOU SHOULD NOW HAVE A WHOLE FRUIT, COMPLETELY CLEANED OF ALL PITH AND PEEL. WORKING OVER A BOWL TO CATCH THE JUICES, CUT ALONG EITHER SIDE OF THE MEMBRANES BETWEEN EACH SEGMENT, RELEASING THE SEGMENTS AS YOU GO AND WORKING YOUR WAY ALL AROUND THE FRUIT. KEEP THE SEGMENTS IN THEIR JUICE UNTIL YOU NEED THEM.
Japanese Eggplant Salad
Japanese Eggplant Salad
Serves 4
We love eggplant in every way imaginable. This salad of tender fried eggplant and wax beans in a sake marinade is a traditional Japanese dish that you might find in a bento box or as part of a kaiseki meal. We present it in a more Western fashion, but the flavors are as haunting as the original version. We like it best in its simplest form, but on occasion, if we get very fresh squid or Hokki Gai clams, we grill them and toss them into the mix. Momiji oroshi is grated daikon seasoned with cayenne and paprika; you can adjust its spiciness to taste. It’s important in this recipe because it helps the ponzu adhere to the eggplant, making its flavor more intense.
8 Japanese eggplants (1½ inches thick and 4 inches long)
Vegetable oil for deep-frying
2 tablespoons sake marinade
5½ ounces yellow wax beans, stemmed and blanched
⅓ cup momiji oroshi
1 tablespoon chopped fresh chives
½ cup ponzu
½ cup upland cress or daikon sprouts, rinsed well and drained
½ teaspoon sesame seeds, toasted
PEEL THE EGGPLANTS LENGTHWISE, leaving strips of skin unpeeled to make a striped pattern. Cut the eggplants lengthwise into 5 wedges, then cut those in half crosswise. In a large bowl, whisk 2 quarts water with 1 tablespoon salt and soak the eggplants in the salted water for 15 minutes to remove the bitterness. Drain the eggplant and carefully pat dry with paper towels to remove all the moisture (you don’t want any water on the eggplant when you deep-fry them).
Heat 2 inches of oil in a deep, heavy pot to 300°. Add as many eggplant pieces as will fit without overcrowding and deep-fry for about 1 minute, or until they are cooked through but not browned. Using a wire-mesh skimmer or slotted metal spoon, transfer the eggplant to a metal colander in a single layer. Pour hot water over the eggplant for 15 seconds to remove the residual oil, then transfer to a bowl of ice water to cool. Remove and pat dry. Repeat the process for the remaining eggplant.
Place the eggplant in a large bowl, add the sake marinade, and toss gently. Marinate in the refrigerator for 15 minutes. Add the yellow wax beans, momiji oroshi, chives, and ponzu and gently combine.
TO SERVE, divide the salad among 4 chilled shallow bowls. Top with the upland cress and sprinkle with toasted sesame seeds.
Lacquered Quail with Hong Kong Noodles
Lacquered Quail with Hong Kong Noodles
Serves 4
The first time Hiro saw a man deep-frying a whole turkey on TV, he thought, “This guy is crazy.” But for days afterward, he couldn’t stop thinking about how he might use this technique—perhaps on a slightly smaller scale, so as not to scare anyone. What he settled on was quail, which first steep overnight in a soy-ginger marinade. When they’re deep-fried, the sugar in the marinade caramelizes and they take on a deep mahogany color reminiscent of Peking duck. Served over a simple cold noodle salad, they’re a great way to start a meal. Frying the quail requires careful attention and a gentle touch, as their skin is quite fragile. But the results are truly worth the effort. If Hong Kong noodles or Chinese egg noodles are not available, use capellini.
Soy-Ginger Marinade
⅓ cup soy sauce
1 (1-inch) piece of fresh ginger, sliced
1 clove garlic, smashed
⅓ cup sugar
1 cup water
Pinch of crushed red pepper flakes
1 tablespoon cornstarch mixed with 1 tablespoon water
4 bone-in quail (about 6 ounces each)
Vegetable oil for deep-frying
10 ounces Hong Kong noodles or Chinese fine egg noodles
¼ cup loosely packed julienned carrot
¼ cup loosely packed julienned Japanese cucumber or hothouse cucumber
¼ cup loosely packed julienned red bell pepper
½ cup Ginger-Mustard Vinaigrette
Garnish
1 tablespoon chopped fresh chives
1 tablespoon sesame seeds, toasted
12 garlic chive flowers (optional)
8 fresh cilantro sprigs
THE DAY BEFORE SERVING, make the marinade and marinate the quail: In a small saucepan, combine the soy sauce, ginger, garlic, sugar, water, and pepper flakes. Bring to a boil and gradually whisk in the cornstarch mixture. Bring back to a boil. Remove from the heat and let cool. Pour the marinade into a medium bowl, add the quail, and turn well to coat. Cover and marinate in the refrigerator overnight.
Preheat the oven to 250°.
TO DEEP-FRY THE QUAIL, heat 3 inches of oil to 360°. Drain the quail and pat dry with paper towels. Add 2 quail and deep
-fry for 3 to 4 minutes, or until dark brown, turning with tongs to get an even color (be careful not to break the skin of the quail while turning). Transfer the quail to paper towels to drain, then place them on a baking sheet pan and keep warm in the oven. Repeat with the remaining quail.
WHILE THE QUAIL ARE COOKING, prepare the noodles: Bring a large pot of salted water to boil. Add the noodles and cook for about 2 minutes, or until tender. Drain in a colander, then rinse with cold water until the noodles are completely cool. Drain well. In a medium bowl, combine the noodles, carrot, cucumber, bell pepper, and all but ¼ cup of the vinaigrette, and toss well.
TO SERVE, divide the noodles among 4 plates, creating a nest in the center of each plate. Cut each quail in half and put 2 halves on each plate, on either side of the noodles. Drizzle the remaining vinaigrette around the noodles. Sprinkle with chives and sesame seeds. Arrange 3 flowers and 2 cilantro sprigs on each plate.
House-Cured Sardines with White Bean–Tomato Salad and Pesto
Serves 4
If you’ve never experienced fresh sardines, you’re in for a tasty surprise. The difference between fresh sardines and the canned ones we’re all familiar with is as pronounced as the difference between fresh and canned tuna. Fresh sardines are usually relatively inexpensive, and curing them in salt, olive oil, and basil is quite easy to do, especially if you ask the fishmonger to clean and bone them for you. Cure them as soon as you get them home; once they’re in the olive oil, they will keep for up to two days. We think their mild, earthy flavor goes perfectly with a light salad of white beans. They also make a fine addition to an antipasto platter.