The River at the Center of the World: A Journey Up the Yangtze
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Bergman, Ingrid, 95
Bicycle accident, 118–20
Bilateral cooperation, 371
Bilharzia, 195n
Biological experiments, 135–7
Bird, Isabella, 264, 290, 411
Black tea, 180
Blakiston, Thomas, 264, 265
Blue River, 101
Bombings, 208, 244
Bon religion, 329
Bonavia, Judy, 409
‘Boneless pigs’, 303, 334, 376
Booz, Patrick, 342
Borodin, Mikhail, 215
Botanical studies, 340–41
Botanical studies, 337–8
Boxer Uprising, 269
Brick tea road, 397, 398
Bridges, 122–4, 202–3, 378–9, 404–5
Britain's Last Imperial Adventure, 376
Britannia (royal yacht), 91
British mercantilism, 57–61, 70–71, 173–9
Brothels, 72–3
Brown, N. S., 64, 89
Brunei, 53–4
Buck, John, 115
Buck, Pearl S., 115–16
Buddhists, 377
Bunds, 36n, 83–6, 155, 204–5
Burma Road, 313, 330
Bus service, 306–9
Butterfield & Swire, 284, 63, 89
Cadres Regiment, 313
Camellia plants, 173–4. See alsoTea industry
Camping, 368–70
Canadian visitors, 249–50, 250n
Canals, 95, 100, 101, 113–14, 157
Canton, 72, 87, 174, 197, 216, 217, 318
Castro, Fidel, 141
Cathay Hotel, 84
Caves, 25, 291–2, 314, 315
Celestial Empire, 264
Central China Anti-Epidemic Water Supply Unit, 138
Central China Flood of 1931, 150, 153–4, 155–6
Central Intelligence Agency (CIA), 31
Ch‘ang Chiang Pilot, 383–5, 410
Ch'ang Jiang Light Ship, 35
Chala, 376
Chain gangs, 396–7, 400
Chang Jiang Kou Bei Jiao, 41
Chang Jiang Kou Lanby, 33, 35
Chang Jiang! Chang Jiang! (Dai Qing), 239, 411
Changchup Dolma, 383–5
Changsha, 217, 222
Chatwin, Bruce, 338, 338–9, 341, 342
Chaulmoogra oil, 333
Chefoo Convention, 266, 268
Cheng Ho, 142
Chengdu, 295, 297, 323, 353, 370, 373, 375, 381, 394
Chenqian, 41
Chiang Kai-shek, 130, 139, 156, 172, 197, 215, 244n, 281, 287
Chiang Mai, 327
Chin-huai stream, 139–40
China Daily, 164
China Geographic Research Institute, 351
China Merchants Steam Navigation Company, 284
China Navigation Company (CN Co.), 63, 284, 285, 412
China Proper, 304, 375
China Quarterly, The, 85n
China Sea Pilot, 36, 410
China Yangtze River Scientific Observation Drifting Expedition, 358
Chinese Pale, 304, 307
Chittagong, 94
Chola-shan mountains, 386
Chongming Dao, 43, 46
Chongqing, 19, 26, 130, 226, 234, 242–3, 266–9, 280–82, 286–7, 336, 366
Chortens, 380, 385
Chou En-lai, 215
Ciochon, Russell, 293
Cleese, John, 342
Clinton, Bill, 31
Clipper ships, 175, 205
Cloud Mountain, 4–5,264, 359, 360–62, 363, 364, 366, 367
Coates, Austin, 9
Cockchafer, HMS, 285
Cold War, 109, 203
Come-to-Me Rock, 271
Communications satellite, 309–10
Communist Party Central Committee, 188
Communist takeover (1949), 87, 106
Concord, HMS, 111
Confucianists, 224
Cormorants, 283
Cornwallis, HMS, 142, 177
Creation myths, 362
Crush-tear-curl (CTC) process, 181
Cultural Revolution, 86, 141, 189, 190–91, 201, 231, 232, 255, 257, 329, 339–40, 381, 383, 390, 391
Currency exchange scam, 247–8
Cuttlefish boats, 42
Da Fu, 325
Dadu River, 378
Dai Qing, 238–40, 241, 411
Dalai Lama, 279, 322, 325, 377, 389, 398, 401
Dali, 327, 333
Dalian, 28
Dam building, 223–9, 235, 253–7, 261–2, 316–20
Dam Qu stream, 322, 350–52, 404
Daoguang, Emperor, 138, 143
Datong, 124, 159
David, Père, 337, 380
Daxue Mountains, 370
Daya Bay, 250
Dead bodies, 90–91, 193–4, 321–2
Dêgê, 355, 373, 374, 377, 381, 387–91
Democratic Youth Party, 245
Deng Xiaoping, 236, 241, 297
Dharmsala, India, 401
Dikes, 157–9
Din-Din Café, 331
Dismissal of Hai Rui from Office, The, 190
Distilleries, 297–8
Dolphins, 101–4, 246
Domand Gunpa lamasery, 385
Dong Jiao, 41
Dong Zhi, 276
Dongting Lake, 157
Dove tree, 337, 361
Dragon Hill Cave, 291–3
Dragon Horse Stream, 275
Dragon's Descendant (boat), 353
Drepung Monastery, 398
Du, Mrs, 276–8
Earthquakes, 244
East China Sea, 2, 20, 33, 35, 38, 150, 238, 343, 391
East India Company, 70–71, 175–6
East Is Red Number One, The (ship), 198–9
Eder Dam, 244
Eighth Battalion of the Wuchang Engineers, 209
Electrical-power generators, 225, 227, 228, 235–6, 253
Elizabeth II, Queen, 91, 198
Elliot, Charles, 143
Ena, Ms, 322
Endangered Species Act, 241
Environmentalism, 239, 241, 246, 253
Epic Undertaking, An, 219, 260
Erhai Lake, 364, 365
Ertan Dam, 316–18
Estuary, 37–43
Expeditions, 352–8
Exports, 214
Expressways, 86, 216
Extraterritoriality, 106
Face, loss of, 311
Fairy Flats, 49n
Fall of Shanghai, The (Barber), 412
Ferryboats, 116, 124, 392
First Opium War, 29, 57, 143
Fishermen, 101–3
Five Cereals Liquid, 297
Flatwater, 344
Flood control, 227, 237, 364
Flood Relief Commission, 156, 158
Floods, 149–58, 163–5, 192, 222–3
Flower boats, 139–40
Flying Tigers, 281, 339
Foochow, 72, 96
Forbidden City, 209
Foreign debt, 251
Fossils, 291–3
Franchises, 212–13
Franklin Research and Development Corporation, 252
Freedom of Information Act, 31–2
Freeways, 86, 216
Frozen yogurt, 211
Fu-hsi, Emperor, 363
Fuling, 234
Fushan, 94
Gambling, 73
Gang of Four, 191n, 232
Garway's Coffee House, 173, 174
Gas stations, 382–3
Ge Guo-hong, 81–3
Gelandandong Glacier, 404, 405
Gelandandong, Mount, 343, 351, 352, 367, 374, 405
Geology, 367
Gezhouba Dam, 254–7
Gill, William, 264
Glen Canyon Dam, 236
Glimpses of the Yangtze Gorges (Plant), 411
Gold mines, 385–6
Golden Road, 325
Golmud, 373, 375, 404
Good Earth, The (Buck), 115, 214, 294
Gotô, Baron, 12
9, 131
Goullart, Peter, 334–5
Grand Canal, 95, 100, 101, 113–14
Grand Coulee Dam, 236
Granville, Lord, 50, 51
Great Anniversary Swim of 1995, 202
Great Bend at Shigu Town, 20, 25, 264
Great Leap Forward, 102, 125, 187–8, 200, 232, 324
Great Wall of China, 43, 262
Green tea, 181–2
Grover, David, 410
Guangxi province, 327
Guangzhuguo Stream, 351–2, 352
Guanxi (connections), 372, 374, 388
Guichi, 160–62
Guidebooks, 128–9
Guinness Book of Records, The, 258
Guiyang, 239
Gulags, 245
Gulf of Tonkin, 3, 366
Guling, 173, 186–8
Gunboat diplomacy, 284–6
Gyermorong, 376
Hai Rui, 189–90
Hainan Island, 54
Haiphong, Vietnam, 214
Han Chinese, 16, 303, 307, 322, 329, 376, 400
Han Shui River, 214, 217, 237
Handbook for the Guidance of Shipmasters on the Ichang-Chungking Section of the Yangtze River, A (Plant), 270–72
Hangzhou Bay, 40, 47, 130
Hankou, 204–9, 213–14
Hankou Bund, 155, 204
Han Shui River, 203
Hanson, J. M., 133–4
Hanyang, 203
Harbin, 136, 221
Hazelwood, 62–5, 67, 69, 78, 89
Headwaters, 349–53, 404–6
Hegemony, 54
Henan province, 243
Heng Duan Shan, 360, 361
Heng Sha, 41
Henry, Augustine, 337
Herbal medicine, 339–42
Hersey, John, 230–31, 253, 255, 290, 408
Himalayas, 150, 295, 361, 367
Hippie Trail, 327
History of Far Eastern Art (Lee), 9
Ho Shi-xiu, 338–42
Hobhouse, Henry, 412
Homosexuality, 73–4, 146
Hong Kong, 70, 77, 81, 82, 87, 143–4, 177, 216–17, 236, 252, 274, 309, 406
Hongkong & Shanghai Bank, 83
Hoover Dam, 236
Horizon Splitting Range, 359, 361
Hsia dynasty, 263
Hsia, Joseph, 76
Huang Ti, 362–3
Huangla Stone, 244
Huanglingmiao, 232
Huc, Abbé, 380
Humboldt, Alexander von, 265
Hunan province, 197, 198
Hydraulics, 223–4
Hydroelectric power systems, 225, 227, 228, 235–6, 253
Imperial Japanese Government Railways, 129
Imperial Maritime Customs Service, 154, 269–70, 276, 337
Imports, 211–13
Indian tea, 178
Inspection Cruiser Number Two, 36, 37, 41
International Relief Committee, 133
Investments, 250–51
Irkutsk, 381
Iron Duke, HMS, 50
Irrigation systems, 225
Isherwood, Christopher, 73, 215
Itaipu Dam, 235
Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, 326–7, 337, 339
Japanese occupation, 130–39
Jardine, Matheson & Co., 57–60, 63, 176, 212, 284
Jari Hill, 352
Java Man, 293
Jialing River, 153, 280
Jiang Han, 56, 140
Jiang Qing, 190
Jiang Zemin, 168, 245
Jianggudiru Glacier, 351
Jiangsu province, 39, 197
Jiangxi province, 197
Jiangyin, 131, 95–7
Jiaopingdu, 313, 379
Jing Hui temple, 142, 143
Jinjiang Flood Diversion Region, 222, 237
Jinling Hotel, 125
Jinsha Jiang, 295, 298, 350, 352, 353, 358
Jiuhua Mountain, 160
Jiujiang, 145, 152, 162, 165, 166–71, 192, 245
Jiujiang Hotel, 167–71
Jiujiang Tea Company, 180
Joint Operations Graphics (JOG) sheets, 30–31, 409
Journey to a War (Isherwood), 215
Judy's Place, 89
Junks and Sampans of the Yangtze, The (Worcester), 409–10
Kai Tak Airport, 33, 216
Kaixian county, 245
Kallen, Christine, 412
Kangding, 373, 377, 379–81, 383
Kanxi, Emperor, 15
Karaoke, 78, 79, 94, 192
Kashgar, 216
Kathmandu, 327
Kham region, 376–7
Khampas, 376
Kim Il Sung, 141, 297
King of Muli, 334
Kinsha, HMS, 269
Kipling, Rudyard, 393
Koreans, 160–61
Kou-an Reach, 107
Kung, Prince, 51
Kunlun (boat), 148
Kunming, 311, 330
Kuomintang (KMT), 106, 215, 314, 315
Kyzyl, 381
Labour camps, 396–7
Lamas, 412
Lamas, Princes and Brigands (Rock & Aris), 412
Lamaseries, 380, 381, 383, 384–5, 391, 400
Lancelot Dent and Company, 176
Landslips, 244, 274
Lao Cai, 366
Large Dams in China, 256
Lee, J. S., 229
Lee, Sherman, 9, 14
Leechuan (ship), 267
Lei Jiansheng, 357
Leibo, 304
Leiwujie, 394
Lhasa, 327, 331, 373–4, 375, 376, 377, 381, 383, 386, 394, 397–8, 400, 403
Li Bai, 172, 325, 375
Li Peng, 233, 234, 235, 237, 240–42, 253, 297
Li Qingjian, 357
Li Siguang, 229
Liaoning province, 89
Lijiang, 327–32, 336–7, 338, 339–40, 346
Lily (Li Xiaodi), 26–9 and passim
Lin Huainto, 239
Liquor industry, 297–8
Lishe Jiang, 365
Lithang, 376
Little Orphan Channel, 162–3
Little, Archibald, 264, 265–6, 267–8345, 411
Liu Rong Bo, 259–60
Locks, ship, 255–6
Logan, Pam, 381, 389
Logging industry, 316
Long March, 306, 313–16, 379
Longgupo Cave, 291–2
Lord Amherst (ship), 71
Lu, Captain, 299–300
Luding Bridge, 378–9
Luoyang Expedition for Sailing and Exploring the Yangtze, 358
Lushan, 172–4, 181–92
Lushan Misty Clouds Green Tea, 170, 182, 185
Lushan Tea Research Institute, 182–6
Lynn, Madeleine, 409
Ma Lu, 389
Ma Shumou, 114n
Macartney, Lord, 29, 50, 101
Macclesfield Bank, 53
Mackay, Ivor, 134
McKenna, Richard, 286, 410
McWhirter, Norris, 258
Manchuria, 28, 89, 130, 136, 177
Manchus, 50–51, 58, 177, 206–11, 265, 277, 376, 377
Mandarin, 26
Mao Zedong, 102, 140–41, 148, 172, 187–91, 195–202, 215, 217–18, 230, 231–2, 255, 306, 313–15, 324, 337, 349
Maps, 29–31, 270–72, 409
Marco Polo Bridge incident, 130
Margery, Augustus, 264
Massacre Museum, 133–5, 138–9
Masseuses, 80
Masuda Rokusuke, 132
Masuda Tomosada, 136, 138
Matheson, Donald, 176, 177n
Matsui Iwane, 131
Medicine, Chinese, 339–42
Mei-ling, 172
Meirentuo, 232
Mekong River, 350, 364, 373, 393–4
Meng Jiao, 325
Merrill Lynch, 251, 253
Meteor-Studded Rapid, 358
Metropolitan Museum of Art, 14
Miao, Mr, 374–5, 382, 392, 395–6, 397, 400
Middle Kingdom, 2,
5, 12, 52, 191, 327, 366
Middle Sand Light, 38
Mills, W. P., 134
Min River, 153, 295, 350, 358
Ming dynasty, 15, 131, 189–90, 350
Minya Konka peak, 335
Miocene Orogeny, 4
Miracle Canal, 158
Mirror Mountain, 162
Misty Foothills Mountains, 365
Mohne Dam, 244
Money-changing scam, 247–8
Monsoons, 151–3
Morgan Stanley, 251, 253
Moso people, 302–3, 334–5, 376
Moulmein, 393
Mukden Railway, 206
Muli, 303
Murdoch, Rupert, 310n
Murray, John, 128
Musicians, 330
Myself a Mandarin (Coates), 9n
Nagqu, 397, 398
Nakhi people, 303, 328–31, 334, 336, 337, 365
Nanjin Pass, 232
Nanjing, 19, 106, 114, 115–46, 154, 202, 211,216, 366
Nanjing Treaty Museum, 142–5
Nanking Incident of 1927, 121, 142
Nanking, Rape of, 131–5
Nation, The, 285
National Geographic, 378
National Geographic Society, 334, 351
National People's Congress, 240, 251
National Security Council (NSC), 31
Nationalists, 314, 315
Nautical charts, 29–30, 409
Navy, Chinese, 53–5
Needham, Joseph, 410
New Chinese Army, 207
New Rapid, 273, 279
New York City Comptroller's Investment Responsibility Office, 252
New York World, 285
Ningbo, 40, 47, 72
Ningjing Range, 394
North-China Daily News, 210
Observer, 408
Odyssey Guide to Sichuan, 409
On Leaving Bai Di Cheng (Walker), 411
Oolong tea, 181
Opium divans, 72–3
Opium trade, 176–9, 213
Opium Wars, 29, 57, 76, 143, 177, 204
Oriental Pearl Television Tower, 66–9, 82, 86
Otters, 283
Pagodas, 160–62
Palaeontological discoveries, 291–4
Palin, Michael, 342
Palmerston, Lord, 57, 143
Panay (gunboat), 285
Panchen Lama, 401
P‘an-ku, 362
Panzhihua, 311, 315, 322, 324, 366
Paracel Islands, 53
Parasites, 195
Peach Blossom Hotel, 248–50
Pearl River, 3, 87, 88, 197, 217
Pearl Rocks, 271, 272
Peking. See Beijing
Peking Man, 293, 294
Peng Dehuai, 188–92
People's Daily, 189–90
People's Liberation Army (PLA), 107, 113, 188, 190
People's Park, 75
People's Square, 75, 86
People's Theatre, 173, 186–7, 188
Pepper wood, 389, 390
Perucia Dam, 244
Pickering, J.V., 134
Pictorial History of China Navigation Company Limited, 412
Pidgin English, 74–5
Pingshan, 136, 300, 304
Pioneer (ship), 268–9
Plagues, 138
Plant Memorial, 274–6
Plant, Cornell, 265, 267, 268–74, 337, 345, 411
Poetry, 217–18
Policemen, 72, 79, 119–20, 388–9, 393–5