Roland G. Henin

by Susan Crowther

  Does Master Chef Roland Henin’s dream die with his failed candidates, or will the legacy continue? Is Roland Henin’s legacy having two Certified Master Chefs at Delaware North or is it something more? At the end of the day … what does “legacy” mean?

  * * *

  Chef Kevin Doherty, post-CMC exam, written reflection:

  Day Four: I am going home. Well, not home, but I cannot continue. So yes, I am out, but we are a team, and my teammate needs me now. Whatever I can do to assist Chef Percy, I will—cook, drive, give him support, etc.

  As I packed my tools, you could see on the faces of your new brothers … they were sad as well. We have just spent the last ninety-six hours together, living the same pain and happiness. I shook hands, wished them well, and went on … thinking of how I got here, the drive and passion that kept me going, not just for Chef Henin but for me, my family, for DN, and for my staff. They all let me do what I needed, to muster the balls to come and take this exam. I was emotionless, not happy nor sad. I kept hearing those words: Chef Doherty, you do not have enough points to continue on to the next day. The flavors are enough to pass, and kitchen scores are okay … it’s just the attention to the details.

  This goes back to the plan: Nail the taste with an okay score and have a good kitchen day, and you can pass this. But your weaknesses come out, just as Chef Henin said.

  Someone asked me, “What do I have to prove?” Well, how do I rate? I have ProChef III and my CEC (Certified Executive Chef), but the Certified Master Chef is the top of the grade. I want this. I told my wife, “One day …” She says, “Yeah, well go get it.”

  Chef and I were on the phone last week. He was talking about the Culinary Hospitality Council—Chef Henin, Chef Percy, and a couple of junior chefs, plus members of IT and HR—about fifteen people. He says, “I’ve voiced my opinion that you and Percy are the only culinary members who need to be on it. It is okay that you didn’t pass. You did well.”

  It felt pretty cool that he said that. It would have been better to have the other result, but he’s not mad or disappointed because—and I can’t speak for Percy—you know what? I did try. And I didn’t place the blame on: well … I’m too fat. I’m too tall. I have to look in the mirror and say, “You know what? The scores I gave myself going into it is where I landed … almost to the T.” That’s kind of scary. He agreed with those scores, but he still let me go, which is cool.

  There is one last closing remark to this entire journal. As we were packing our final things at the condo in Pasadena, Chef Roland wrote down something that will carry me through my remaining days on this earth, and will continue to remind me of just how human I am: “We learn from our mistakes, ten times more, than from our successes.”

  * * *

  Chef Percy Whatley, post-CMC exam:

  Day Eight: My internal alarm clock woke me at 4:45 a.m., just like the seven mornings prior. I got up and made coffee and enjoyed the silence and solitude for a couple of hours. I then decided that I needed to touch food. I made eggs, potatoes, and bacon for chefs Kevin and Roland. The smells woke them up, and we enjoyed a simple breakfast together.

  Day Nine, and beyond: The trip home was uneventful. After trying to talk Kevin into taking a plane out of the Los Angeles area instead of Fresno, he was being stubborn: We have journeyed long and hard together, and we would end it together, as promised. The conversations of the fact that achieving this level of certification is not impossible were a major topic throughout the hours of driving. If you can clear your mind from the first day in, this would play a big role in the success of it, for sure.

  Over the course of the next few days, I did my best to settle back into work. I was back in the kitchen on Tuesday morning. By Wednesday morning, I was feeling great. I knew there was plenty of preparation to get accomplished for the 140 people coming to dinner the next day. It is interesting … as I hit the cutting board, the magic hit me … can’t explain what this feeling is exactly, but I had the dance, that thing that hit me in the exam, rocking and rolling. Maybe it is the systems learned over the last two years of development, but the prep just flowed out of my body, fluidly, like it was prepping itself?!?! Meats processed and marinated, stocks simmering, octopus poached in a flavorful court bouillon, etc, etc, etc….

  By the end of that day, I knew for certain, and without one speck of doubt, that I had made the right decision to pursue this level of certification. Pass or fail, I was cooking at a different level, because of the hard work and effort leading up to the exam. It was now part of my DNA to do right by the food, no shortcuts, no loss of integrity. I pulled the chef team into the office and explained that “I am back.” There will be some changes to the current processes. Improving our cooking will be a continued focus of mine, and feelings may get hurt, but it is about the cooking, and nothing else.

  * * *

  After fifty years, Chef Henin’s legacy is simply for the good work to continue. Henin’s fear is, “If I go, within weeks, it will all go back to the way it was, eighteen years ago—beer, peanuts, popcorn.” Hopefully, DN will continue the legacy that Henin established. Time will tell. Based on some recent emails from Chefs Kevin and Percy, it just might be okay.

  Chef Percy …

  YOU make me so proud, for doing the Turkey “Two ways” … Braising the legs ahead of time … and roasting the breasts on the day of …

  Thank you so much … have a GR8 day … you deserve it …

  See you soon … RGH

  Susie,

  You will see that Chef Percy is also following up on doing, for all the guests at the Ahwahnee, the process that I developed, Braising the stuffed legs and making the sauce/gravy with the neck/back-bones, etc. a few days ahead and then simply roasting the breast as needed on the day of, just prior to service … and NOT several days ahead like it used to be in the “OLD Days.” When I brought this up, I was told by every-one … It COULDN’T be done! CRAZY FRENCHMAN!!

  Susie,

  I hope this email finds you well.

  I just mailed a small box to Chef. Contents of the box were as follows:

  —1 quart container rubber bands—these are used in rigging his stuff for fishing. The purpose is to keep my spot as “Boat Bitch” for next season.

  —A bag of sorghum seeds—for chef to cook for dinner.

  —A small local selection of beautiful vinegars made just south of Boston, to enhance his salad.

  —A small can of Urbani truffle / tomato—as I had these as samples and I thought of his garnish for the asparagus Velouté …

  —And a crisp 5-dollar bill, to make sure I keep current on my debt.

  All of these little trinkets were in an Urbani cooler pouch, which he can reuse for his lunch.

  It’s the little things that mean the most … … … … … …. .keeping chef being the mentor.

  Kevin

  This book was intended to be Roland Henin’s legacy, a documentation of the great chef’s life lessons; however, these lessons only serve to illustrate his true legacy. What Chef Henin leaves behind, more than any wild story or culinary skill, is mentoring. His legacy is thousands of great chefs—chefs deeply rooted in the fundamentals while vigorously challenged to embrace their own unique gifts. Chef Henin is the Johnny Appleseed of this industry. Every culinary venue, competition, and federation is associated with this man. Over the course of fifty years, spanning across the globe, Chef Henin has affected the entire contemporary culinary culture … one chef at a time.

  Are we the salmon, or are we the river?

  We are both.

  2009 CIA Graduation Speech, Greystone Campus

  In 2009, Timothy Hollingsworth, coached by Roland Henin, made “America’s first orbit” into the Bocuse d’Or atmosphere, earning sixth place out of twenty-four competing chefs. Until that time, ever since the Bocuse d’Or began in 1987, the United States had never come close to the podium.

  The Bocuse d’Or is the most rigorous culinary competition in the world, held every two
years in Lyon, France. In 2013, Rich Rosendale reached the podium, placing third. And then, in 2017, in the Bocuse d’Or’s thirtieth year, Team USA won the competition.

  If you are reading this book, you have an interest in Culinary Arts. As someone who has an interest, you are a culinary student. You are learning about the art, growing in your own skill, and igniting your passion. As a student, you carry a weight—an obligation of sorts, to be an advocate for these fine chefs who choose integrity over everything else. You have an obligation to be the voice for these unassuming heroes who mostly find themselves in the back of the restaurant, in the kitchen, fighting the fight, and always working when others are playing. Honor these fine people and share their message. Most importantly, model their integrity. Live your life as if you are preparing a meal for Roland Henin.

  To honor that momentous year, 2009, we include a speech given by Roland Henin to the CIA graduates at Greystone Campus, in St. Helena, California, in the heart of beautiful Napa Valley.

  * * *

  Dr. Ryan, distinguished guests, and members of the first graduating class of 2009: as a professional chef, it is my privilege and a great honor to be with you on such a momentous occasion.

  As you just heard, this is not my first encounter with the Culinary Institute of America. I was a member of the faculty from 1981 until 1985—some of the best years of my life, as a matter of fact. As a result of my teaching experience, I believe I have a thorough understanding, not just of this fine institution, but of culinary students and recent graduates, in general.

  Actually, it was my mission in life to “shape up” near-graduates, just before they enter their last class of the program—the American Bounty—where a good friend of mine was the chef instructor….

  Once there were two students at Hyde Park who were taking a course in sauces. They were pretty good students. In fact, they had solid As going into the final exam, but they were also a little arrogant (it is par for the course). So the weekend before finals, they decided to get a head start and go to Johnson & Wales, up the road a bit, to party with some friends, and of course, commiserate on their particular chef instructor. Suffice it to say, they had a good time, and as you can image, didn’t make it back to the CIA on time.

  They were more than a little nervous by now. They found their instructor and apologized for missing the exam, saying they went off-campus to prepare for the exam, and on the way back, they encountered a flat tire. They were impoverished culinary students, so they had no spare and had to wait a long time for help to come to the rescue. This made them so late, they missed the final test.

  The instructor, being such a nice and understanding guy, thought it over and agreed they could make up the final on the following day. The two guys were relieved. They studied hard that night and reported for the exam early the next morning.

  The instructor placed them in separate rooms and handed each of them a test booklet. They looked at the first question. It was worth five points and pertained to Carême’s four mother sauces. “Cool,” they thought. This was going to be a piece of cake. They answered the question and turned the page. They were unprepared, however, for what they saw on the next page. It said—for 95 points—“Which tire?”

  An A.O.S. CIA culinary degree is quite an accomplishment. For the rest of your career, it will capture attention and will get your foot in the door. But it will be your job and your responsibility to live up to your credentials. And keep in mind that you also bear the burden of representing many, many successful and prominent chefs who came before you. So … screwing up is not an option.

  Right now, however, you’re probably thinking about getting out (I’m sure a few of you just can’t wait) and trying things on your own. One thing for sure that I can tell you now … there has never ever been, in the history of the world, a better place, and a better time, to be in the culinary arts.

  I’d like to offer you a glimpse of what the future is going to be like for you. Allow me to put it in terms that we chefs can understand. See your career as a seven-course meal….

  You might feel today like this is the end of a long hard course of study. But in reality, it is just the beginning. You have just completed the hors d’oeuvres course—the little tidbits of this and that. Perhaps some of you are even still in the middle of it. Either way, you’ve had a taste, just a taste, of what being a chef is all about and, of course, you are hungry for more. Your appetite has been whetted.

  That is the purpose of the hors d’oeuvres. They are designed to be a teaser, to make you want more. And from what I’ve seen, they have done their job.

  Soon after this, you will move to the fish course, the very beginning of your career. Here it’s important to be careful. Fish is delicate and can easily be done incorrectly or even ruined. Don’t get carried away. Stick to the fundamentals and what you’ve been taught, and be open-minded to what others have to teach you. Resist telling others what to do, especially those who are more experienced than you. I have heard many graduates say, “That is not how we do it at the CIA.” You may be right, but this kind of attitude will not allow you to win friends. So get used to the taste of your own tongue, because you’ll need to develop a habit of biting it, rather than appearing like a know-it-all smart-aleck … and I am being polite! Remember that you will be judged harshly on this first course. It’s important to do it right, so you can gracefully move into the next phase of your career.

  If your fish course is successful, and I am confident that it will be, you’ll soon be ready to move into the main course phase. Now, you’re really cooking. This will be the time from about age thirty to forty, or roughly ten to fifteen years or so after culinary school. The demands on your time and talent will be significant. You’ll be working long hours, perhaps moving around quite a bit and finding your way and hopefully advancing at a rapid pace. There will be challenges—both personal and professional. Stay focused. Your plate shouldn’t be heaped with everything in your repertoire. You’ll have to make choices about what you want to serve, or in other words, about the kind of chef you want to be and the kind of life you want to lead. This will demonstrate the core of who you are and what you are made of!!

  The seed you sow in those first three courses will begin to bear much fruit that you will be able to start harvesting during the salad and cheese courses. Like the salad, your career will now have a lighter and more refreshing feeling … your reward for having worked so long and so hard to get to this point. At the same time, it will be characterized by the strong and powerful flavor and aroma of the cheeses, coated with some of its creaminess. You will have earned a reputation that will precede and follow you. During these years, you will be serving as a mentor to other chefs and perhaps guiding and teaching. You will definitely be making your mark in your very own kitchen or serving as a leader in a culinary association or organization. Whatever path you are on, you will be building a legacy that you will one day leave to others.

  Then, someday, you will wake up, look around and realize it is time for dessert—the sweet times. First you will wonder if the meal could have been any better, but when you taste how sweet and good this course is, you’ll have your answer. Now, you’re ready to relax a bit—lecture, coach, give speeches, even write a book. In your quiet time, you can sit back and reflect on how you might have tweaked some of the courses along the way and changed a menu item here or there. But overall, if you’ve done things the right way, you’ll be able to realize it has been the kind of meal you always dreamed of.

  Then, finally, you’ll pour yourself a small glass of the perfect, fine digestif, raising your glass in a toast to all of those who have helped you along the way. Yes, even the lowly assistant and the last commis, as all of these people have been instrumental in your success. And honestly, you couldn’t have done it so well without each and every one of them on your side.

  For the past twenty-one months, you have worked hard, and you deserve to be congratulated. In fact, may I invite everyone to give you a full ro
und of applause?

  Ladies and gentlemen … to the graduates.

  And now, it is my honor to thank you, my fellow chefs, for joining me for dinner. May your meal be fulfilling and flavorful, and may you savor every bite.

  Bon appétit.

  What’s Wrong with This Picture?

  For fifty years, Master Chef Roland G. Henin’s accomplishments spanned the globe, beginning with a humble stint at the1967 World Expo in Montreal, Canada:

  • Canadian Federation Chefs de Cuisine

  • Keltic Lodge at Highlands, Cape Breton, Nova Scotia

  • Digby Pines Resort, Nova Scotia

  • Hôtels des Gouverneur, Quebec City

  • Everglades Club, Palm Beach, Florida

  • Grand Bahamas Beach Hotel

  • Le Grand Lodge Mont-Tremblant, Quebec

  • The Chanticleer Restaurant & Gardens, Nantucket, Massachusetts

  • The Dunes Club, Narragansett, Rhode Island

  • Johnson & Wales, Chef Instructor

  • Textbook Author, A Practical Understanding of Fonds de Cuisine and Sauces

  • Chef de Cuisine, Breakers Hotel, Palm Beach, Florida

  • Executive Chef, Rancho Bernardo Inn, San Diego, California

  • Culinary Institute of America Educator:

  • The Stage

  • The Escoffier Room

  • Seafood Kitchen

  • Student Advisor

  • Competition Coach

  • American Culinary Federation member:

  • Certified Culinary Educator

  • Approved Culinary Judge

  • Certified Executive Chef

  • Certified Master Chef

  • First National ACF Chef Professionalism Award

  • ACF Certified Master Chef Exam Judge

  • Food Editor, The Art and Science of Culinary Preparation

  • US Western Regional Culinary Team Captain

  • US Culinary Olympic Team USA Coach