Lonely Planet Indonesia

by Lonely Planet

  To reach Ratu Boko, travel 1.5km south on the road from Prambanan village to just southwest of where the river crosses the road. Near the ‘Yogya 18km’ signpost a steep rocky path leads up to the main site. Altogether it is about a one-hour walk. The site can be reached by car or motorcycle via a much longer route that goes around the back of the mountain.

  The remains of the Buddhist temple, Candi Sajiwan, are not far from the village of Sajiwan, about 1.5km southeast of Prambanan village. Around the temple’s base are carvings from the Jataka (episodes from the Buddha’s various lives).

  Western GroupTEMPLE

  (admission per temple 2000Rp)

  There are three temples in this group between Yogyakarta and Prambanan, two of them close to Kalasan village on the main Yogyakarta road. Kalasan and Prambanan villages are 3km apart, so it is easiest to take an angkot or bus to cover this stretch. Candi Kalasan, near Kalasan village, is one of the oldest Buddhist temples on the Prambanan Plain. A Sanskrit inscription of AD 778 refers to a temple dedicated to the female Bodhisattva Tara.

  It has been partially restored and has some fine detailed carvings on its southern side, where a huge, ornate kala head glowers over the doorway. At one time it was completely covered in coloured, shining stucco, and traces of the hard, stonelike ‘diamond plaster’ that provided a base for paintwork can still be seen. The inner chamber of Kalasan once sheltered a huge bronze image of Buddha or Tara. It's set in a clump of coconut trees just off the main road; admission is adult/child 2000/1000Rp.

  Candi Sari is about 200m north from Candi Kalasan, also in the middle of coconut and banana groves. This temple has the three-part design of the larger Plaosan temple but is probably slightly older. Some experts believe that its 2nd floor may have served as a dormitory for the Buddhist priests who took care of Candi Kalasan. The sculptured reliefs around the exterior are similar to those of Kalasan but are in much better condition.

  Candi Sambisari is an isolated temple about 2.5km north of the main road, reached via a country lane. Sambisari is a Shiva temple and possibly the latest temple at Prambanan to be erected by the Mataram dynasty. It was discovered by a farmer in 1966. Excavated from under ancient layers of protective volcanic ash and dust, it lies almost 6m below the surface of the surrounding fields and is remarkable for its perfectly preserved state. The inner sanctum of the temple is dominated by a large lingam and yoni (stylised penis and vagina), typical of Shiva temples.

  3Entertainment

  Ramayana BalletDANCE

  (%021-496408; www.borobudurpark.com)

  Held at the outdoor theatre just west of the main temple complex, the famous Ramayana Ballet is Java’s most spectacular dance-drama. The story of Rama and Sita unfolds over four successive nights, two or three times each month from May to October (the dry season), leading up to the full moon.

  With the magnificent floodlit Candi Shiva Mahadeva as a backdrop, nearly 200 dancers and gamelan musicians take part in a spectacle of monkey armies, giants on stilts, clashing battles and acrobatics.

  Performances last from 7.30pm to 9.30pm. Tickets are sold in Yogyakarta through the tourist information office and travel agencies at the same price that you’ll pay at the theatre box office (but they usually offer packages that include return transport from your hotel for 50,000Rp to 100,000Rp extra). Tickets cost from 10,000Rp to 250,000Rp, or 375,000Rp for VIP seats (padded chairs up front). All seats are on stone benches except the VIP.

  8Information

  The Prambanan temples are usually visited from Yogyakarta (17km away), but they can also be visited from Solo (50km away). The main temple complex lies on the Yogyakarta–Solo highway. A ‘minitrain’ or tram (5000Rp) from the museum loops to Candi Sewu. The admission price includes camera fees and admission to the museum. Guides charge 75,000Rp to 100,000Rp for a one-hour tour for one to 20 people.

  Most of the other (seldom-visited) outlying temples are within a 5km radius of Prambanan village. You’ll need at least half a day to see them on foot, or they can be explored by bicycle or motorcycle if you ride to Prambanan. The best time to visit Prambanan is in the early morning or late in the day, when it’s quiet, though you can never have Prambanan to yourself – expect plenty of attention from visiting school groups and requests for photos.

  8Getting There & Away

  Prambanan is 17km northeast of Yogyakarta.

  Bicycle & Motorcycle

  You can visit all the temples by bicycle from Yogyakarta. The most pleasant route, though it’s a longer ride, is to take Jl Senopati out past the zoo to the eastern ring road, where you turn left. Follow this right up to Jl Solo, turn right and then left at Jl Babarsari. Go past the Sahid Garden Hotel and follow the road counterclockwise around the school to the Selokan Mataram. This canal runs parallel to the Solo road, about 1.5km to the north, for around 6km to Kalasan, about 2km before Prambanan.

  To view the western temples you need to return via the Solo road. The turn-off north to Candi Sambisari from the Solo road crosses the canal before leading another 1km to the temple. You can visit the temple, backtrack to the canal path and continue back to Yogyakarta.

  If you are coming by motorcycle, you can combine the visit with a trip to Kaliurang. From Kaliurang, instead of going back to the main Yogyakarta–Solo road, take the ‘Solo Alternatif’ route signposted in the village of Pakem, about halfway between Yogyakarta and Kaliurang. From there the road passes through some beautiful countryside, before tipping you onto the highway just before Prambanan’s main entrance.

  Bus

  From Yogyakarta, take TransYogya bus 1A (3600Rp, 40 minutes) from Jl Malioboro. From Solo, buses take 1½ hours and cost 15,000Rp.

  Solo (Surakarta)

  %0271 / Pop 520,000

  Arguably the epicentre of Javanese identity and tradition, Solo is one of the least Westernised cities on the island. An eternal rival to Yogyakarta, this conservative town often plays second fiddle to its more conspicuous neighbour. But with backstreet kampung and elegant kraton, traditional markets and gleaming malls, Solo has more than enough to warrant at least an overnight visit. Two nights is better, and as there are some fascinating temples close by, it also makes a great base for forays into the lush hills of Central Java.

  In many ways, Solo is also Java writ small, incorporating its vices and virtues and embodying much of its heritage. On the downside, the island’s notoriously fickle temper tends to flare in Solo first – the city has been the backdrop for some of the worst riots in Java’s recent history. On the upside, the city’s long and distinguished past as a seat of the great Mataram empire means that it competes with Yogyakarta as the hub of Javanese culture.

  Solo attracts students and scholars to its music and dance academies, and it's an excellent place to see traditional performing arts, as well as traditional crafts – especially batik, which is a local staple.

  History

  Following the sacking of the Mataram court at Kartosuro in 1742, the susuhunan (sultan), Pakubuwono II, decided to look for a more auspicious site. A location near the river Solo was chosen, and his imposing palace completed by 1745.

  Pakubuwono II died after only four years in the city, and his heir, Pakubuwono III, managed to lose half of his kingdom to the court of Yogyakarta. Pakubuwono X (1893–1938), however, had more luck. He revived the prestige of the court through the promotion of culture and gave no time to fighting rival royals.

  Following WWII, the royal court fumbled opportunities to play a positive role in the revolution, and lost out badly to Yogyakarta, which became the seat of the independent government. The palaces of the city soon became mere symbols of ancient Javanese feudalism and aristocracy.

  With the overthrow of Suharto, Solo erupted following the riots in Jakarta in May 1998. For two days rioters went on a rampage, systematically looting and burning every shopping centre and department store and targeting Chinese-owned businesses.

  Today things have settled down again, and sleek new shopping malls and hotels ha
ve risen from the ashes of the old. Although Solo retains an earned reputation as a hotbed of radicalism, and its madrassahs (Islamic schools) have maintained links to extremist groups such as Jemaah Islamiah, jilbab (head coverings) aren't as ubiquitous here as they are in West Java, and it feels a lot less pious than many other Javanese cities.

  Solo (Surakarta)

  1Sights

  1House of Danar HadiB4

  2Istana MangkunegaranD3

  3Kraton SurakartaE6

  4Mesjid AgungE5

  5Radya Pustaka MuseumB4

  6Taman SriwedariB4

  2Activities, Courses & Tours

  7Miki ToursD5

  4Sleeping

  8Cakra HomestayD5

  9De SoloA3

  10Istana Griya 2E4

  11Novotel SoloC4

  12Omah Sinten Heritage HotelD4

  13Red PlanetB3

  14Rumah TuriB2

  15Warung Baru HomestayE4

  5Eating

  16Adem AyemA3

  17GalaboF5

  18Nasi Liwet Wongso LemuD4

  19O Solo MioC4

  Omah SintenD4

  20RalanaA3

  SogaB4

  21Warung BaruD4

  6Drinking & Nightlife

  22VivereB3

  3Entertainment

  23RRI AuditoriumD1

  24Sriwedari TheatreB4

  7Shopping

  25Batik Danar HadiB4

  26Batik Keris ShopD5

  27Paragon MallA2

  28Pasar GedeF4

  29Pasar KlewerE5

  30Pasar TriwinduD4

  31Solo Grand MallA3

  1Sights & Activities

  Kraton SurakartaPALACE

  (Kraton Kasunanan; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0271-656432; admission 15,000Rp, guide 25,000-30,000Rp; h9am-2pm )

  Once the hub of an empire, today the Kraton Surakarta is a faded memorial of a bygone era. It’s worth a visit, but much of the kraton was destroyed by fire in 1985. Many of the inner buildings were rebuilt, but today the allure of this once-majestic palace has largely vanished and its structures are left bare and unloved. The main sight for visitors is the Sasono Sewoko museum.

  The poor condition of today’s kraton belies its illustrious history. In 1745 Pakubuwono II moved from Kartosuro to Solo in a day-long procession that transplanted everything belonging to the king, including the royal banyan trees – those remain magnificent – and the sacred Nyai Setomo cannon (the twin of Si Jagur in old Jakarta), which now sits in the northern palace pavilion.

  Museum exhibits include an array of silver and bronze Hindu-Javanese figures, weapons, antiques and other royal heirlooms, plus the mother of all horse-carriage collections. Labelling is poor or non-existent and termites, woodworm and rot are serious issues.

  A carved doorway leads to an inner courtyard, but most of the kraton is off-limits and it’s still the residence of the susuhunan (sultan). The upper storey of the Panggung Songgo Buwono, a 1782 tower that has endured the years intact, is said to be the susuhunan's meditation sanctum where he communes with Nyai Loro Kidul (the Queen of the South Seas).

  Dance practices are held on the grounds Sundays at 1pm.

  Istana MangkunegaranPALACE

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; admission 20,000Rp; h8.30am-2pm Mon-Sat, 8.30am-1pm Sun)

  Dating to 1757, the Istana Mangkunegaran is in better condition than the kraton and is the home of the second house of Solo. The centre of the compound is the pendopo, a pavilion built in a mix of Javanese and European architectural styles. Its high, rounded ceiling was painted in 1937 and is intricately decorated with a central flame surrounded by figures of the Javanese zodiac, each painted in its own mystical colour.

  In Javanese philosophy yellow guards against sleepiness, blue against disease, black against hunger, green against desire, white against lust, rose against fear, red against evil and purple against wicked thoughts.

  Behind here is the dalem (residence), which forms the delightful palace museum. Most exhibits are from the personal collection of Mangkunegara VII. On display are gold-plated dresses for royal dances, a superb mask collection, jewellery and a few oddities, including huge Buddhist rings and gold genital covers.

  A guide is mandatory (and worthwhile) for the museum. Most guides are very informative and speak English (a tip of 30,000Rp is appreciated).

  At the pavilion, there's gamelan music, singing and dance-practice sessions on Wednesday, from 10am until noon.

  House of Danar HadiMUSEUM

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0271-714326; www.houseofdanarhadi.com; Jl Slamet Riyadi 261; admission 35,000Rp; h9am-4pm, showroom to 9pm)

  Danar Hadi is one of the world's best batik museums, with a terrific collection of antique and royal textiles from Java, China and beyond. It occupies a stunning whitewashed colonial building. Entry includes an excellent guided tour (around 1½ hours, in English), which explains the history of the many pieces (10,000 in the collection). There’s also a workshop where you can watch craftswomen at work creating new masterpieces, an upmarket storeroom and a souvenir shop.

  Radya Pustaka MuseumMUSEUM

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Slamet Riyadi; admission 3000Rp; h9am-4pm Tue-Sun)

  A small museum with good displays of gamelan instruments, jewelled kris, puppets and wayang beber (scrolls that depict wayang stories).

  Mesjid AgungMOSQUE

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP )F

  On the western side of the alun-alun, Mesjid Agung, featuring classical Javanese architecture, is the largest and most sacred mosque in Solo.

  Taman SriwedariAMUSEMENT PARK

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; admission 12,000Rp, ride tickets 60,000Rp per pack; h5-10:30pm Tue-Sat, 9am-10:30pm Sun)

  Solo’s Sriwedari amusement park has fair rides and sideshow stalls, though an admission ticket doesn't get you on the rides. You'll need to buy a pack of ride tickets at the box office if you care to play. Nightly wayang orang performances (and other cultural shows) are held in the theatre.

  Jaladara Steam TrainTRAIN

  (%0856 4200 3322; per person 150,000-360,000Rp; h9am-11.30am)

  Trundling through the heart of the city, the Jaladara steam train (built in Germany in 1896) is a fun morning excursion in carriages with Victorian-style wood fittings. The trip (with English-speaking guide) starts at Purwosari train station (3km west of centre), and stops at Kampung Batik Kauman (for a visit to a batik worshop) before terminating at Sangkrah train station.

  It's a great experience, but tour groups must charter the full train and prices vary depending upon the number of passengers on board.

  TRADITION & DISASTER

  Solo is a deeply superstitious city and many of its citizens are acutely observant of Javanese and Islamic ritual. So when the kraton (palace) ignited in flames on 1 January 1985, many locals saw it as a consequence of the incumbent sultan Pakubuwono XII's lack of observance of tradition. For years he'd been lax with his ceremonial duties, and his alleged womanising was the talk of the town. The sultan had also taken to living the high life in Jakarta rather than presiding over court life in Solo.

  Firefighters responding quickly to the blaze found their engines could not fit through the main gateway (which was thought to be sacred), and initially refused to smash through it. Around 60% of the palace subsequently burned to the ground.

  To appease deeply felt Javanese customs, a purification ceremony was performed. The head of a tiger, snake, buffalo and deer were buried, and tons of ashes were returned to the coast to quell the wrath of Nyai Loro Kidul, the Queen of the South Seas, whose influence over the tragic events was seen to be pivotal by many.

  However General Benny Murdani, who investigated the fire, was eager to counter locally held superstitions, stating, 'reporters will not reach their own conclusions. The reason for the fire was an electrical short circuit'.

  When Pakubuwono XII died in 2004, he left 37 children from six wives and mistresses, but no clear heir.

  CCourses

  Batik MahkotalaweyanHANDICRA
FTS

  (%0271-712276; www.batikmahkotalaweyan.com; Sayangan Kulon 9, Kampung Laweyan; 2hr course 50,000Rp)

  Offers batik courses ranging from a two-hour taster session to intensive programs lasting several days.

  TTours

  For some reason tours quoted from Solo can be pricey, so consider renting a car and a driver and doing it yourself for much less. Jogja Trans out of nearby Yogyakarta is a great option.

  Guesthouses and freelance guides offer city, regional and bike tours.

  Ajib BondGUIDE

  (%0818 0447 8488; ajib_efata@yahoo.com)

  Offers good city tours (400,000Rp, minimum two people). His bike trip (200,000Rp) to Mojolaban village via various cottage industries and the Bengawan Solo river is also recommended.

  Miki ToursTOUR

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0271-29292; www.tiket24jam.com; Jl Yos Sudarso 17)

  This travel agent offers tours to the countryside around Solo, including Candi Sukuh (475,000Rp, minimum two people).

  zFestivals & Events

  Kirab PusakaCULTURAL

  (Heirloom Procession)

  Since 1633, these colourful processions have been held on the first day of the Javanese month of Suro (between March and May). They start at Istana Mangkunegaran in the early evening and continue late into the night.

  SekatenRELIGIOUS

  This festival marks the Prophet Muhammed's birthday and is held between May and July. It comprises two ceremonies with a week in between, culminating with a fair held on the alun-alun and the sharing of a rice mountain.