Canggu
Betelnut CafeCAFE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0821 4680 7233; Jl Pantai Batu Bolong; mains from 45,000Rp; h7am-10pm; aW)
There's a hippy-chic vibe at this thatched cafe with a mellow open-air dining room upstairs. The menu leans towards healthy, but not too healthy – you can get fries. There are juices and lots of mains featuring veggies. Good baked goods, nice shakes.
CrateCAFE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.facebook.com/cratecafebali; Jl Pantai Batu Bolong 64; coffee 20,000Rp, breakfast from 35,000Rp; h7am-3pm; W)
Set up inside a concrete bunker, this cafe is popular with Canggu scenesters who come here for coffee, avocado on sourdough or a bowl of Fruit Loops.
Green GingerASIAN$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0878 6211 2729; Jl Pantai Berawa; meals from 40,000Rp; h8am-9pm; Wv)
An attractive little restaurant on the fast-changing strip in Canggu, Green Ginger specialises in fresh and tasty vegetarian and noodle dishes from across Asia.
El Jefe Jose CubanosSANDWICHES$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.facebook.com/eljefejosecanggu; cnr Jl Batu Bolong & Jl Nelayan; sandwiches 65,000Rp; hnoon-midnight)
At the 'Junction' leading into Canggu's most happening strip, this roadside shack serves up Cuban sandwiches filled with house-smoked pork, chicken or tempeh. It shares space with a tropical dive bar run by an Aussie larrikin and is frequented by a cast of colourful characters.
Deus Ex MachinaCAFE$$
(Temple of Enthusiasm; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0811 388 315; wwwdeuscustoms.com; Jl Batu Mejan 8; mains 60,000-115,000Rp; h7am-10.30pm; W)
This surreal venue standing amid Canggu's rice fields takes on many personas. If you're hungry it's a restaurant-cafe-bar; if you want to shop it's a fashion label; if you're into culture it's a contemporary-art gallery; if you're into music it's a live-gig venue (Sunday afternoons) for local punk bands; if you're a biker it's a custom-made motorcycle shop; if you want your beard trimmed, it's a barber…
Echo Beach
Beach HouseCAFE$$
(Echo Beach Club; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-747 4604; www.echobeachhouse.com; Jl Pura Batu Mejan; mains 40,000-110,000Rp; h7am-11pm; W)
The most popular of Echo Beach's seafront restaurant-bars, here you can gaze out to the waves from a variety of couches and picnic tables. There's an impressive display of skewered meats and seafood ready to grill, as well as a tasty breakfast and lunch menu. Evening barbecues are popular, especially on Sundays when there's live music.
6Drinking & Nightlife
oOld Man'sBEER GARDEN
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-846 9158; www.facebook.com/oldmansbali; Jl Pantai Batu Bolong; mains from 50,000Rp; h8am-midnight)
You'll have a tough time deciding just where to sit down to enjoy your drink at this popular coastal beer garden overlooking Batu Bolong Beach. The menu is aimed at surfers and surfer-wannabes: burgers, pizza, fish and chips, and, for the New Agers, salads. Wednesday nights are an institution, while Fridays (live rock and roll) and Sundays (DJs) are also big.
oHungry BirdCAFE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.hungrybirdcoffee.com; Jl Raya Semat 86; h8am-5pm; W)
One of the few genuine third-wave coffee roasters in Bali, Hungry Bird does superb single-origin brews. The Javanese owner is incredibly knowledgeable on the subject, and roasts beans on-site from all over Indonesia; cupping sessions are possible if you call ahead. The food's also excellent and perfect for brunch.
La LagunaBAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-474 1214; Jl Pantai Kayu Putih, Berawa; h11am-midnight; W)
Run by the same owners as Seminyak's La Favela, La Laguna is in the same beatnik mould, but by the beach. Explore an eclectic layout, and find your place on a Chesterfield couch, a sofa-bed stacked with velvet cushions, a picnic table in the garden or within a gypsy caravan. The menu comprises cocktails, chargrilled meats and Cuban cigars.
There's a bridge leading to the ocean, so you can hang out on the beach.
Pretty PoisonBAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0812 3800 6004; Jl Subak Canggu; h5-11pm)
Pretty Poison's bar overlooks an old-school '80s skate bowl, so a surfboard isn't the only board you to need to pack. While skateboarding is the focus, it's a great place to hang out, with cheap beers and bands.
7Shopping
Dylan Board StoreSURFBOARDS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0857 3853 7402; www.dylansurfboards.com; Jl Pantai Batu Bolong; h9.30am-9pm Mon-Sat, 10am-8pm Sun)
Famed big-wave rider Dylan Longbottom runs this custom surfboard shop. A talented shaper, he creates boards for novices and pros alike. He also stocks plenty of his designs that are ready to go.
8Getting There & Around
From the airport, fixed-price taxis cost 225,000Rp.
You can reach the Canggu area by road from the south by taking Jl Batubelig west in Kerobokan almost to the beach and then veering north past various huge villas and expat shops along a curved road. It's much longer to go up and around via the traffic-clogged Jl Raya Kerobokan.
Getting to the Canggu area can cost 80,000Rp or more by taxi from Kuta or Seminyak. Don't expect to find taxis cruising anywhere, although any business can call you one.
From Echo Beach a local taxi cooperative has taxis waiting to shuttle you back to Seminyak and the south for about 70,000Rp.
Bukit Peninsula
%0361
Home to some of Bali's biggest waves, nicest beaches and some spectacular coastal views, the southern peninsula of Bukit is popular for good reason. Its booming west coast, with its string-of-pearls beaches, is a real hotspot for surfers and hip young beachgoers. World-famous surf breaks run all the way south to the important temple of Ulu Watu.
The east coast of Nusa Dua generally attracts a more well-heeled crowd to its five-star resorts and manicured beaches.
Jimbaran
Just south of Kuta and the airport, Teluk Jimbaran (Jimbaran Bay) is an alluring crescent of white-sand beach and blue sea, fronted by a long string of seafood warungs and ending at the southern end in a bushy headland.
1Sights & Activities
Jimbaran Fish MarketMARKET
( GOOGLE MAP ; Jimbaran Beach; h6am-3pm)
A popular morning stop on a Bukit Peninsula amble, this fish market is smelly, lively and frenetic – watch where you step. Brightly painted boats bob along the shore while huge cases of everything from small sardines to fearsome langoustines are hawked. The action is fast and furious.
Jimbaran BeachBEACH
( GOOGLE MAP )
One of Bali’s best beaches, Jimbaran’s 4km-long arc of sand is mostly clean and there is no shortage of places to get a snack, a drink, a seafood dinner or to rent a sun lounger. The bay is protected by an unbroken coral reef, which keeps the surf more mellow than at popular Kuta further north, although you can still get breaks that are fun for bodysurfing.
5Eating & Drinking
Seafood is what brings most tourists to Jimbaran. Stretching along the coast, warungs cook fresh barbecued seafood every evening (and lunch at many). The open-sided affairs are right by the beach and perfect for enjoying sea breezes and sunsets. Arrive before sunset so you can get a good seat.
Fixed prices for seafood platters in a plethora of varieties have become common, and allow you to avoid the sport of choosing your fish and paying for it by weight while the locals break out in laughter. Should you go this latter route, be sure to agree on costs first. Generally, you can enjoy a seafood feast, sides and a couple of beers for under US$20 per person. Lobster (from US$30) will bump that figure up considerably.
Rock BarBAR
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-702222; www.ayanaresort.com/rockbarbali; Jl Karang Mas Sejahtera, Ayana Resort; h4pm-1am; W)
Star of a thousand glossy articles written about Bali, this bar perched 14m above the crashing Indian Ocean is very popular. In fact, at sunset the wait to ride the lift down to the bar can top one hour.
8Getting There & Away
Plenty of tax
is wait around the beachfront warungs in the evening to take diners home (about 100,000Rp to Seminyak). Some of the seafood warungs provide free transport if you call first; look them up online.
Balangan Beach
A long, low strand at the base of rocky cliffs, Balangan Beach ( GOOGLE MAP ) is covered with palm trees and fronted by a ribbon of near-white sand, picturesquely dotted with sun umbrellas. Surfer bars, cafes in shacks and slightly more permanent guesthouses precariously line the shore.
A small temple, Pura Dalem Balangan ( GOOGLE MAP ), sits at the northern end of the beach. Bamboo beach shacks line the southern end; visitors laze with one eye cast on the action at the fast left surf break here.
4Sleeping & Eating
The string of shack restaurants perched on the hill overlooking the beach have prime wave-viewing positions and make great spots for a meal or drink. Some have basic accommodation.
Santai Bali HomestayBUNGALOW$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0338-695942; [email protected]; Balangan Beach; from 200,000Rp)
Right on the sands of Balangan Beach, the bare-bones rooms at this shack bungalow are perfect for surfers and beach bums wanting easy access to the water. Its restaurant has tables and chairs plonked on the beach.
Balangan Sea View BungalowGUESTHOUSE$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0851 0080 0499; www.balanganseaviewbungalow.com; off Jl Pantai Balangan; r with fan/air-con from 355,000/475,000Rp, q from 650,000Rp; aWs)
A cluster of thatched bungalows are the pick here. They surround a small pool in an attractive compound, and some have sea views.
8Getting There & Away
Balangan Beach is 6.2km off Jl Ulu Watu on Jl Pantai Balangan. Turn west at the crossroads at Nirmala Supermarket.
Taxis from the Kuta area cost at least 300,000Rp for the round trip, including waiting time.
Bingin
An ever-evolving scene, Bingin comprises scores of unconventionally stylish lodgings scattered across cliffs and along the strip of white-sand Bingin Beach ( GOOGLE MAP ) below. The scenery here is simply superb, with sylvan cliffs dropping down to surfer cafes and the foaming edge of azure sea. The beach is a five-minute walk down steep steps.
4Sleeping & Eating
Numerous places to stay are scattered along and near the cliffs. All have at least simple cafes.
Chocky's PlaceGUESTHOUSE$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0818 0530 7105; www.chockysplace.com; Bingin Beach; s/d from 100,000/200,000Rp; W)
Down the bottom of the stairs on Bingin Beach, this classic surfer hangout has cosy rooms varying from charming with awesome views to rudimentary with shared bathrooms. Its bamboo restaurant looks out to the beach; it's a great place to meet fellow travellers over a few cold ones.
Bingin GardenGUESTHOUSE$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0816 472 2002; [email protected]; off Jl Pantai Bingin; r with fan/air-con 300,000/400,000Rp; aWs)
There's a relaxed hacienda feel to Bingin Gardens, where six bungalow-style rooms are set among an arid garden and a large pool. It's back off the cliffs and about 300m from the path down to the beach. It's run by gun local surfer Tommy Barrell and his lovely wife.
oTemple LodgeBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0857 3901 1572; www.thetemplelodge.com; off Jl Pantai Bingin; r incl breakfast US$80-230; Ws)
'Artsy and beautiful' just begins to describe this collection of huts and cottages made from thatch, driftwood and other natural materials. Each sits on a jutting shelf on the cliffs above the surf breaks, and there are superb views from the infinity pool and some of the seven units. You can arrange for meals, and there are morning yoga classes.
Secret GardenGUESTHOUSE$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0816 474 7255; http://homepage3.nifty.com/balisurf/secretgarden2.html; Bingin; r from 443,000Rp; W)
Tasteful and ultra laid-back, this guesthouse has open-plan bamboo bungalows with futon beds, and a design that incorporates its natural environment. It's run by a Japanese surfer-photographer who has good knowledge of local waves. It's at the top of the hill near the path leading down to the beach.
oCashew TreeCAFE$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0353-218157; www.facebook.com/the-cashew-tree; Jl Pantai Bingan; meals from 40,000Rp; h8am-10pm; Wv)
The Cashew Tree is the place to hang out in Bingin. Surfers and beachgoers gather for tasty vegan and vegetarian meals. Expect the likes of tempeh rice-paper rolls with tahini dipping sauce, and smoothies with banana, raw cacao and cashews. It's also a good spot for a drink; Thursday nights especially go off, attracting folk from up and down the coast.
Padang Padang
Slight in size but not in perfection, Padang Padang Beach ( GOOGLE MAP ) is a cute little cove. As well as having great surf, its popularity has surged since appearing in Eat, Pray, Love, the film based on the best-selling book by Elizabeth Gilbert. The Saturday-night beach parties here are legendary. The beach is a short walk through a temple and down a well-paved trail.
If you're feeling adventurous, you can enjoy a much longer stretch of nearly deserted white sand that begins on the west side of the river. Ask locals how to get there.
4Sleeping & Eating
Bali RocksGUESTHOUSE$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0817 344788; www.facebook.com/balirockspadang; r 200,000Rp)
Down the cliff face, this thatched bit of wonder has dead-simple rooms with stunning views of the surf breaks and the ocean. Showers and toilets are down a couple of flights of stairs from the rooms. At high tide you can jump directly into the water.
oLe SabotBUNGALOW$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0812 3768 0414; www.lesabotbali.com; r from 700,000Rp)
Revel in a 1960s surfer fantasy on the Bukit cliffs at these open-plan bungalow-style units. There's hot water, electricity, fridges, large beds and decks with some of Bali's finest views. Room 3 is the pick. Bungalows are quite a slog down the cliff face.
Buddha SoulCAFE$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; www.buddhasoul.com.au; Jl Labaunsait; breakfast from 50,000Rp, mains 65,000-150,000Rp; h7.30am-10pm; W)
This chilled-out roadside cafe has an outdoor deck where you can enjoy healthy, organic meals such as grilled calamari, chicken salad and lentil burgers. Closer to the beach, the same team also runs Om Burger ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0812-391 3617; Jl Labuan Sait; burgers from 65,000Rp; h7am-10pm; W), which has an excellent selection of burgers.
8Getting There & Away
A metered taxi from Kuta will cost about 150,000Rp and take an hour, depending on traffic.
BUKIT PARTY CIRCUIT
Though it's the beaches and waves that bring tourists to Bukit, the area's beginning to gain a reputation as a place to party. The fun is shared along the peninsula, with a different spot hosting each evening. Sunday nights are the most well known on the social calendar: this is when beautiful people descend in mass upon Ulu Watu's Single Fin for DJs and sunset sounds; Wednesdays are also popular. On Saturdays it's Padang Padang's turn to host its famed evening beach parties. On Thursdays things get lively with live bands at Cashew Tree at Bingin, while Fridays it's back to Ulu Watu for the rooftop bash at Mamo Hotel ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-769882; www.mamohoteluluwatu.com; Jl Labuan Sait; aW).
Ulu Watu & Around
Ulu Watu has become the generic name for the southwestern tip of the Bukit Peninsula. It includes the much-revered temple and the fabled namesake surf breaks.
About 2km north of Ulu Watu temple, there is a dramatic cliff from where steps lead to the legendary Ulu Watu surf breaks. All manner of cafes and surf shops spill down the almost sheer face to the water below. Views are stellar, and it is quite the scene.
1Sights & Activities
oPura Luhur Ulu WatuHINDU TEMPLE
( GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Ulu Watu; admission incl sarong & sash rental adult/child 10,000/10,000Rp; h8am-7pm)
This important temple is perched precipitously on the southwestern tip of the peninsula, atop sheer cliffs that drop straight into the ceaseless surf. You enter through an unusual arched gateway flanked by statues of Ganesha. Inside,
the walls of coral bricks are covered with intricate carvings of Bali’s mythological menagerie.
Only Hindu worshippers can enter the small inner temple that is built onto the jutting tip of land. However, the views of the endless swells of the Indian Ocean from the cliffs are almost spiritual. At sunset, walk around the clifftop to the left (south) of the temple to lose some of the crowd.
Ulu Watu is one of several important temples to the spirits of the sea along the south coast of Bali. In the 11th century the Javanese priest Empu Kuturan first established a temple here. The complex was added to by Nirartha, another Javanese priest who is known for the seafront temples at Tanah Lot, Rambut Siwi and Pura Sakenan. Nirartha retreated to Ulu Watu for his final days when he attained moksa (freedom from earthly desires).
A popular Kecak dance is held in the temple grounds at sunset (100,000Rp), when traffic jams form during high season.
Ulu WatuSURFING
( GOOGLE MAP )
On its day, Ulu Watu is Bali's biggest and most powerful wave. It's the stuff of dreams and nightmares, and definitely not one for beginners! Since the early 1970s when it featured in the legendary surf flick Morning of the Earth, Ulu Watu has drawn surfers from around the world for left breaks that seem to go on forever.
Lonely Planet Indonesia Page 43
