4Sleeping & Eating
GongGUESTHOUSE$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-769976; www.thegonguluwatubali.com; Jl Pantai Suluban; r from 220,000Rp; is)
The 12 tidy rooms here have good ventilation and hot water, and face a small compound with a lovely pool. Some 2nd-floor units have distant ocean views. It's about 1km south of the Ulu Watu cliffside cafes; the host family is lovely.
Uluwatu CottagesBUNGALOW$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-207 9547; www.uluwatucottage.com; off Jl Labuan Sait; r from US$75; aWs)
Fourteen bungalows are spread across a large site right on the cliff, just 400m east of the Ulu Watu cafes (about 200m off Jl Labuan Sait). The units are comfortable and the views are superb.
DelpiCAFE$
( GOOGLE MAP ; meals 40,000-60,000Rp; h7am-7pm; aW)
A relaxed cafe-bar sitting on a cliff away from other cafe spots, with stunning views. There are also simple rooms for rent (with fan/air-con US$35/40).
oSingle FinCAFE$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-769941; www.singlefinbali.com; Jl Mamo; mains 65,000-150,000Rp; h8am-11pm; W)
The views of the surf action from this triple-level cafe are breathtaking. Watch the never-ending swells march in across the Indian Ocean from this cliffside perch; it's a great spot to spectate surfers carving it up when the waves are big. Drinks here aren't cheap and the food is merely passable, but come sunset, who cares?
Its Sunday session is a big event, when all the beautiful people come here in full force for a night out.
8Getting There & Away
The best way to see the Ulu Watu region is with your own wheels. Otherwise a taxi ride out here will cost at least 200,000Rp from Seminyak and take more than hour in the coagulated traffic.
Ungasan & Around
If nearby Ulu Watu is all about celebrating surf culture, Ungasan is all about celebrating oneself. From crossroads near this otherwise nondescript village, roads radiate to the south coast, where some of Bali's most exclusive oceanside resorts can be found. With the infinite turquoise waters of the Indian Ocean rolling hypnotically in the distance, it's hard not to think you've reached the end of the world, albeit a very comfortable end.
Bali's southernmost beach can be found at the end of a 3km-long road from Ungasan village. Newish concrete steps lead down the 200m cliff to a sweet crescent of sand edging the pounding ocean.
4Sleeping
oAlila Villas UluwatuRESORT$$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-848 2166; www.alilahotels.com/uluwatu; Jl Belimbing Sari; r incl breakfast from US$750; aiWs)
Visually stunning, this vast resort has an artful contemporary style that is at once light and airy while still conveying a sense of luxury. The 85-unit Alila offers gracious service in a setting where the blue of the ocean contrasts with the green of the surrounding (hotel-tended) rice fields. It's 2km off Jl Ulu Watu.
Nusa Dua
Nusa Dua translates literally as 'Two Islands' – although they are actually small raised headlands, each with a small temple. But Nusa Dua is much better known as Bali's gated compound of resort hotels. Gone is the hustle, bustle and engaging chaos of the rest of the island.
Nusa Dua is very spread out. You enter the enclave through one of the big gateways, and inside there are expansive lawns, manicured gardens and sweeping driveways leading to the lobbies of large hotels.
1Sights
oPasifika MuseumMUSEUM
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-774559; www.museum-pasifika.com; Bali Collection Shopping Centre, Block P; admission 70,000Rp; h10am-6pm)
When groups from the nearby resorts aren’t around, you’ll probably have this large museum to yourself. A collection of art from Pacific Ocean cultures spans several centuries and includes more than 600 paintings (don't miss the tikis). The influential wave of European artists who thrived in Bali in the early 20th century is well represented. Look for works by Arie Smit, Adrien-Jean Le Mayeur de Merpres and Theo Meier. There are also works by Matisse and Gauguin.
4Sleeping & Eating
Nusa Dua resorts are similar in several ways: they are all big (some are huge) and almost every major international brand is represented. Most are right on the placid beach.
If you're considering a stay at Nusa Dua, search for deals.
Sofitel Bali Nusa Dua Beach ResortRESORT$$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-849 2888; www.sofitelbalinusadua.com; Jl Nusa Dua; r from US$246; aiWs)
Making up a part of the resort strip, the Sofitel has a vast pool that meanders past the 415 rooms, some of which have terraces with direct pool access. The room blocks are huge; many rooms have at least a glimpse of the water. The Sofitel's lavish Sunday brunch (11am to 3pm) is one of Bali's best; it costs from 400,000Rp.
St Regis Bali ResortRESORT$$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-847 8111; www.stregisbali.com; ste from US$600; aiWs)
This lavish Nusa Dua resort leaves most of the others in the sand. Every conceivable luxury is provided, from electronics to the furnishings, the marble and the personal butler. Pools abound and units are huge. Go for the pool suite with ocean views if you want to relax in style.
Nusa Dua Beach GrillINTERNATIONAL$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0851 0043 4779; Jl Pura Gegar; meals 65,000-250,000Rp; h8am-10.30pm)
A good spot for day trippers, this hidden, warm-hued cafe is south of Gegar Beach and the huge Mulia resort. The drinks menu is long, the seafood fresh and the atmosphere heavy with assignations.
8Getting There & Around
The Bali Mandara Toll Road (car/motorcycle 11,000/4000Rp) greatly speeds up journeys between Nusa Dua and the airport and Sanur.
The fixed taxi fare from the airport is 150,000Rp; a metered taxi to the airport will be much less. Metered taxis to/from Seminyak average 90,000Rp.
A free shuttle bus (%0361-771662; http://bali-collection.com/shuttle-bus; h9am-10pm) connects Nusa Dua and Tanjung Benoa resort hotels with the Bali Collection shopping centre in Nusa Dua about every hour.
You can walk the delightful beach promenade that leads to Tanjung Benoa.
Tanjung Benoa
The peninsula of Tanjung Benoa extends about 4km north from Nusa Dua to Benoa village. It's flat and lined with family-friendly resort hotels, most of midrange calibre. By day the waters buzz with the roar of dozens of motorised water-sports craft. It's popular with domestic travellers, and group tours arrive by the busload for a day's aquatic excitement, such as straddling a banana boat among other thrills.
Tanjung Benoa is a good base for budget travellers wanting to utilise Nusa Dua's beaches.
1Sights
Amble the narrow lanes of the peninsula's tip for a multicultural feast. Within 100m of each other you'll find a brightly coloured Chinese Buddhist temple ( GOOGLE MAP ), a domed mosque ( GOOGLE MAP ) and a Hindu temple ( GOOGLE MAP ) with a nicely carved triple entrance.
4Sleeping & Eating
Pondok Hasan InnGUESTHOUSE$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-772456; [email protected]; Jl Pratama; r incl breakfast 200,000Rp; aW)
Back 20m off the main road, this friendly family-run homestay has nine immaculate hot-water rooms that include breakfast. The tiles on the outdoor veranda gleam; it's shared by the rooms, and there is a small garden.
Rumah BaliGUESTHOUSE$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-771256; www.balifoods.com; off Jl Pratama; r incl breakfast from US$110, villas from US$270; aiWs)
Rumah Bali is a luxurious interpretation of a Balinese village by cookbook author Heinz von Holzen, who also runs local restaurant Bumbu Bali. Guests choose from large family rooms or individual villas (some have three bedrooms) with their own plunge pools and kitchens. In addition to a large communal pool, there's also a tennis court. The beach is a short walk away.
oBumbu BaliBALINESE$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-774502; www.balifoods.com; Jl Pratama; mains from 90,000Rp, set menus from 270,000Rp; hnoon-9pm)
Long-time resident and cookbook author Heinz von Holzen, his wife Puji, and well-trained and enthusias
tic staff serve exquisitely flavoured dishes at this superb restaurant. Many diners opt for one of several lavish set menus. Cooking classes on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays (from US$103) are highly recommended.
Whacko Beach ClubINTERNATIONAL$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-771384; Jl Pratama; mains 80,000-180,000Rp; h9am-10pm; W)
There's nothing whacko about this beachside hang-out. Instead it's a laid-back, family-friendly spot. Spend the day lazing by the pool, in the restaurant, at the bar or on sunloungers looking out to the water. The menu offers burgers, grilled seafood, pizzas and Indonesian dishes.
8Getting There & Around
Taxis from the airport cost 150,000Rp. A free shuttle bus (%0361-771662; www.bali-collection.com/shuttle-bus; h9am-10pm) connects Nusa Dua and Tanjung Benoa resort hotels with Nusa Dua's Bali Collection shopping centre. You can stroll the beach promenade along to Nusa Dua.
Sanur
%0361
Sanur is a genteel alternative to raucous Kuta. It's low-key surf experience and the area’s status as a haven for expat retirees contributes to Sanur’s nickname, ‘Snore’. Parents tend to enjoy the beach at Sanur because its calmness makes it a good place for small children to play.
Sanur stretches for about 5km along an east-facing coastline, with the lush and green landscaped grounds of resorts fronting right onto the sandy beach. West of the beachfront hotels, the busy main drag, Jl Danau Tamblingan, has hotel entrances and oodles of tourist shops, restaurants and cafes.
Sanur
1Top Sights
1Museum Le MayeurB2
2Activities, Courses & Tours
2Balinese Cooking ClassA7
3Crystal DiversB5
4Sleeping
4Fairmont Sanur Beach BaliB7
5Hotel La TavernaB3
6Pollok & Le Mayeur InnB1
7Tandjung SariB4
8Yulia 1 HomestayA3
5Eating
9Byrdhouse Beach ClubB3
10Char MingA6
11Manik OrganikB5
12MassimoA6
MinamiB3
13Three Monkeys CafeB4
Warung Little BirdA3
14Warung Pantai IndahB6
6Drinking & Nightlife
15KalimantanA3
7Shopping
16A-KreaB4
17Ganesha BookshopB4
1Sights
Sanur’s 4km beachfront walk follows the sand south as it curves to the west. Lots of cafes with tables on the sand will give you plenty of reason to pause and enjoy the views.
Sanur is also a good base for taking in nearby Denpasar's museums and galleries.
oMuseum Le MayeurMUSEUM
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-286201; Jl Hang Tuah; adult/child 20,000/10,000Rp; h8am-3.30pm Sat-Thu, 8.30am-12.30pm Fri)
Artist Adrien-Jean Le Mayeur de Merpres (1880–1958) arrived in Bali in 1932, and married the beautiful Legong dancer Ni Polok three years later, when she was just 15. They lived in this compound back when Sanur was still a quiet fishing village. After the artist’s death, Ni Polok lived in the house until she died in 1985. Despite security (some of Le Mayeur's paintings have sold for US$150,000) and conservation problems, almost 90 of Le Mayeur's paintings are displayed.
The house is an interesting example of Balinese-style architecture. Notice the beautifully carved window shutters that recount the story of Rama and Sita from the Ramayana. The museum also has a naturalistic Balinese interior of woven fibres.
2Activities
Sanur's calm waters and steady breezes make it a natural centre for windsurfing and kitesurfing. Sanur's fickle surf breaks (tide conditions often don't produce waves) are offshore along the reef. The best breaks are Sanur Reef, a right break in front of Inna Grand Bali Beach Hotel, and Hyatt Reef, in front of, you guessed it, the Bali Hyatt Regency.
Rip Curl School of SurfKITESURFING
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-287749; www.ripcurlschoolofsurf.com; Beachfront Walk, Sanur Beach Hotel; lessons from 1,100,000Rp, rental per hr from 550,000Rp; h8am-5pm)
Sanur's reef-protected waters and regular offshore breezes make for good kitesurfing. The season runs from June to October. Rip Curl also rents boards for windsurfing and stand-up paddling (SUP; including yoga SUP for 300,000Rp per hour).
Crystal DiversDIVING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-286737; www.crystal-divers.com; Jl Danau Tamblingan 168; dives from US$65)
This slick diving operation has its own hotel (the Santai) and a large diving pool. It's recommended for beginners; the shop offers a long list of courses, including PADI open-water (US$500).
Balinese Cooking ClassCOOKING COURSE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-288009; www.santrian.com; Puri Santrian, Beachfront Walk; 1½hr class without/with market visit US$55/70; hWed & Fri)
With a kitchen that's set on the beachfront, this is a memorable spot to learn to cook Balinese food. For a bit extra you can visit the market to source ingredients.
oPower of Now OasisYOGA
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0813 3831 5032; www.powerofnowoasis.com; Beachfront Walk, Hotel Mercure; classes from 100,000Rp)
Enjoy a yoga class in this atmospheric bamboo pavilion looking out to Sanur Beach. Several levels are offered. Sunrise yoga is a popular choice.
4Sleeping
Yulia 1 HomestayGUESTHOUSE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-288089; [email protected]; Jl Danau Tamblingan 38; r incl breakfast with fan & cold water 170,000-220,000Rp, with air-con 300,000-350,000Rp; aWs)
Run by a friendly family, this mellow guesthouse is set in a lovely bird-filled garden full of palms and flowers. Rooms vary in standards (some cold water, fan only), but all come with minibars. The plunge pool is a nice area for relaxing.
Pollok & Le Mayeur InnHOMESTAY$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-289847; [email protected]; Jl Hang Tuah, Museum Le Mayeur; r fan/air-con from 250,000/350,000Rp; aW)
The grandchildren of the late artist Le Mayeur de Merpes and his wife Ni Polok run this small homestay. It's within the Le Mayeur museum compound, and offers a good budget option on the beachfront. The 17 rooms vary in size; ask to see a few.
oHotel La TavernaHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-288497; www.latavernahotel.com; Jl Danau Tamblingan 29; r US$100-200, ste from US$150; aiWs)
One of Sanur's first hotels, La Taverna has been thoughtfully updated while retaining its artful, simple charm. The pretty grounds and paths that link the buildings hum with a creative energy, infusing the 36 vintage bungalow-style units with an air of understated luxury. Art and antiques abound; views beckon.
oFairmont Sanur Beach BaliRESORT$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-3011888; www.fairmont.com; Jl Kesumasari 8; r from US$315; aiWs)
Looming over Sanur's beachfront, this massive hotel has 120 elegant suites and villas on a sprawling site that includes a 50m infinity pool. The design is strikingly modern, and high-tech pleasures abound. There are also lavish spas and restaurants, and a state-of-the-art gym. Kids get their own pool and play area.
Tandjung SariHOTEL$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-288441; www.tandjungsarihotel.com; Jl Danau Tamblingan 29; bungalows incl breakfast from US$225; aiWs)
One of Bali's first boutique hotels, Tandjung Sari has flourished since it opened in 1967 and continues to be lauded for its style. The 28 traditional-style bungalows are beautifully decorated with crafts and antiques. The gracious staff are a delight. Free Balinese dance classes (Wednesdays at 3pm) are taught by one of Bali's best dancers.
5Eating & Drinking
Although there are plenty of uninspiring places on Jl Danau Tamblingan, there are also some gems.
Many of Sanur's drinking establishments cater to retired expats and are, thankfully, air-conditioned.
Beachfront
The beach path has restaurants, cafes and bars where you can catch a meal, a drink or a sea breeze.
Warung Pantai IndahCAFE$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Beachfront Walk; mains 30,000-110
,000Rp; h9am-9pm)
Sit at battered tables and chairs with your toes in the sand at this timeless beach cafe. It specialises in fresh barbecue-grilled seafood and cheap local dishes.
MinamiJAPANESE$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0812 8613 4471; Beachfront Walk; mains from 56,000Rp; h10am-11pm)
With its minimalist white decor, bright open-air atmosphere and a vast range of ultrafresh fish, this authentic Japanese place is a great find on Sanur Beach.
Byrdhouse Beach ClubINTERNATIONAL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-288407; Segara Village; mains from 60,000Rp; h6am-midnight; W)
With loungers, a swimming pool, a restaurant and bar, wi-fi and table tennis on-site, one could happily spend the entire day here by the beach. Check the club's Facebook page for upcoming events, including outdoor-cinema screenings and street-food stalls.
Jalan Danau Tamblingan
Warung Little BirdINDONESIAN$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-745 4968; Jl Danau Tamblingan 34; mains from 25,000Rp; h10am-10pm)
The charming Little Bird does tasty Indonesian dishes including beef rendang (coconut curry), and Balinese specialities such as ayam betutu (slow-cooked chicken stuffed with Balinese spices), which you'll need to reserve in advance. Its inviting little bar makes it a good spot for a drink, too.
Lonely Planet Indonesia Page 44
