Lonely Planet Indonesia

by Lonely Planet

  The long-running and very professional Bali Diving Academy is a recommended dive operation, which has long experience in the waters around Lembongan and Penida. It has a full range of courses.

  DIVING NUSA LEMBONGAN & ISLANDS

  There are great diving possibilities around Nusa Lembongan, Nusa Penida and Nusa Ceningan, from shallow and sheltered reefs, mainly on the northern side of Lembongan and Penida, to very demanding drift dives in the channel between Penida and the other two islands. Vigilant locals have protected their waters from dynamite bombing by renegade fishing boats, so the reefs are relatively intact. And a side benefit of local seaweed farming is that locals no longer rely so much on fishing. The islands were designated a marine conservation district in 2012.

  If you arrange a dive trip from Padangbai or south Bali, stick with the most reputable operators, as conditions here can be tricky and local knowledge is essential.

  Diving accidents regularly happen and people die diving in the waters around the islands every year.

  Using one of the recommended operators on Nusa Lembongan puts you close to the action from the start. A particular attraction are the large marine animals, including turtles, sharks and manta rays. The large (3m, fin to fin) and unusual mola mola (sunfish) are regularly seen around the islands between mid-July and October, while manta rays are often seen south of Nusa Penida.

  The best dive sites include Blue Corner and Jackfish Point off Nusa Lembongan and Ceningan Point at the tip of Nusa Ceningan. The channel between Ceningan and Penida is renowned for drift diving, but it is essential you are with a good operator who can judge fast-changing currents and other conditions. Upswells can bring cold water from the open ocean to sites such as Ceningan Wall. This is one of the world's deepest natural channels and attracts all manner and sizes of fish.

  Sites close to Nusa Penida include Crystal Bay, SD, Pura Ped, Manta Point and Batu Aba. Of these, Crystal Bay, SD and Pura Ped are suitable for novice divers and are good for snorkelling.

  For a fascinating look into the marine species that inhabit these waters, check out the website of ecological group Aquatic Alliance (www.aquaticalliance.org). The group gives free talks on Tuesdays and Thursdays at 6.30pm at Secret Garden Bungalows (up the road from World Diving), which are worth attending.

  Snorkelling

  Good snorkelling can be had just off Tanjung Sanghyang (Mushroom Bay) and Bounty pontoons ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) off Jungutbatu Beach, as well as in areas off the north coast of the island. You can charter a boat from 150,000Rp per hour, depending on demand, distance and the number of passengers.

  A trip to the challenging waters of Nusa Penida costs 400,000Rp for three hours, and to the nearby mangroves costs about 300,000Rp. Snorkelling gear can be rented for about 30,000Rp per day. World Diving allows snorkellers to join dive trips and charges 250,000Rp for a four-hour trip.

  4Sleeping & Eating

  Rooms and amenities generally become increasingly posh as you head south and west along the water to Tanjung Sanghyang (Mushroom Bay).

  Jungutbatu

  oPondok BarunaGUESTHOUSE$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0812 394 0992; www.pondokbaruna.com; Jungutbatu Beach; r 250,000-650,000Rp; aWs)

  Associated with World Diving, a local dive operator, this place offers fantastic rooms with terraces facing the ocean. Plusher rooms surround a dive pool behind the beach. There are another eight rooms at sister site Pondok Baruna Frangipani ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0812 394 0992; www.pondokbaruna.com; s/d incl breakfast 600,000/650,000Rp; aWs), set back in the palm trees around a large pool. Staff members, led by Putu, are charmers.

  Pemedal BeachGUESTHOUSE$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0822 4441 4888; www.pemedalbeach.com; Jungutbatu Beach; r from 500,000Rp; aWs)

  A lovely affordable option if you want to be near a sandy beach; the 11 bungalows are set back a bit with a nice pool.

  Indiana KenangaBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0828 9708 4367; www.indiana-kenanga-villas.com; Jungutbatu Beach; r US$200-490; aWs)

  Two posh villas and 16 stylish suites shelter near a pool behind the beach at Lembongan's most upscale digs. The French designer-owner has decorated the place with Buddhist statues, purple armchairs and other whimsical touches. The restaurant has an all-day menu of seafood and various surprises cooked up by the skilled chef, plus there's a poolside creperie!

  Hillside

  The steep hillside just south of Jungutbatu offers great views and an ever-increasing number of luxurious rooms.

  Ware-WareGUESTHOUSE$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0812 397 0572; r incl breakfast from 700,000Rp; aWs)

  The nine units at this hillside place are a mix of square and circular numbers with thatched roofs. The large rooms (some with fan only) have rattan couches and big bathrooms. The cafe scores with its spectacular, breezy location on a cliff-side wooden deck.

  Batu KarangHOTEL$$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0366-559 6376; www.batukaranglembongan.com; r incl breakfast from US$270; aiWs)

  This upmarket resort perched on a terraced hillside has a large infinity pool. Some of its 25 luxury units are villa-style and have multiple rooms and private plunge pools. All have open-air bathrooms and wooden terraces with sweeping views. Right on the hillside path, Deck Cafe & Bar ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; http://thedecklembongan.com; snacks from 20,000Rp; h7.30am-11pm; W) is a good pause for a gourmet snack or a drink.

  Tanjung Sanghyang (Mushroom Bay)

  It's your own treasure island. This shallow bay has a nice beach, plenty of overhanging trees and some of the nicest lodgings on Lembongan.

  Alam Nusa HutsGUESTHOUSE$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0819 1662 6336; www.alamnusahuts.com; Tanjung Sanghyang; r from US$40; aW)

  This small property is less than 100m from the beach. Four bungalows sit in a small, lush garden; each has an open-air bathroom and a secluded terrace. The interiors feature a lot of rich wood and bamboo. The staff are especially welcoming.

  oHai Bar & GrillINTERNATIONAL$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-720331; www.haitidebeachresort.com/hai-bar-and-grill; Tanjung Sanghyang, Hai Tide Beach Resort; mains from 60,000-125,000Rp; h7am-10.30pm; W)

  This wide-open bar with wide-open views of the bay and sunsets is the most stylish restaurant bar along Tanjung Sanghyang. The menu mixes Asian and Western dishes, and there are comforts such as fresh-baked muffins. You can use the pool if you eat here, and open-air movies screen some nights. Call for pickup from Jungutbatu.

  Elsewhere on Lembongan

  Dream Beach HutsGUESTHOUSE$$

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0821 4508 3170; www.dreambeachlembongan.com; Dream Beach; r incl breakfast from 650,000Rp; Ws)

  Overlooking Lembongan's best beach, this guesthouse truly does have a dream location. The traditionally styled thatched-roof huts are no-frills, with outdoor bathrooms and cold-water showers, so it won't suit those seeking luxury. On the flip-side, its grounds are a delight, with a double-tiered swimming pool, ping-pong tables, hammocks and beanbags.

  The restaurant (mains from 55,000Rp) is popular with day trippers, so service can be on the slow side.

  Sandy Bay Beach ClubINTERNATIONAL$$

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0828 9700 5656; www.sandybaylembongan.com; Sunset Bay; mains from 55,000Rp; h8.30am-10.30pm; W)

  Pushing the distressed bleached-wood look for all its worth, this appealing beach club occupies a fine position on a sweet pocket of sand most call Sunset Beach (unless you're this place and call it Sandy Bay…). The menu spans Asia and Europe, with a detour to Burgerville. The evening seafood barbecues are popular.

  8Information

  It's vital that you bring sufficient cash in rupiah for your stay, as there is only one ATM and it won't accept most foreign cards, even when it actually has cash to dispense.

  8Getting There & Away

  There are numerous options for getting to/from Nusa Lembongan, some quite fast. Note: anyone with money to buy a speedboat is getting into the fast-boat act here; be wary
of fly-by-night operators with fly-by-night safety standards. Boats anchor offshore, so be prepared to get your feet wet. There are a number of fast boats heading to/from Sanur; recommended operators include Scoot ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-285522; www.scootcruise.com) and Rocky Fast Cruises ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-283624; www.rockyfastcruise.com; Jungubatu Beach).

  Nusa Penida boats take locals between Jungutbatu and Toyapakeh (one hour) between 5.30am and 6am for 30,000Rp. Otherwise, charter a boat for 150,000Rp one way.

  8Getting Around

  The island is fairly small and you can walk to most places. There are no cars (although pickup trucks are proliferating); bicycles (30,000Rp per day) and small motorcycles (50,000Rp per day) are widely available for hire. One unwelcome development has been the arrival of SUV-sized golf carts.

  One-way rides on motorcycles or trucks cost 20,000Rp and up.

  Nusa Ceningan

  There is an atmospheric, narrow suspension bridge crossing the lagoon between Nusa Lembongan and Nusa Ceningan, which makes it quite easy to explore the island. In addition to the lagoon that's filled with frames for seaweed farming, you'll see several small agricultural plots and a fishing village. The island is quite hilly and, if you're up for it, you can get glimpses of great scenery while wandering or cycling around.

  2Activities

  The Mahana Point cliff jump (50,000Rp for three jumps) is a popular activity.

  JEDCULTURAL TOUR

  (Village Ecotourism Network; %0361-366 9951; www.jed.or.id; per person US$130)

  To really savour Nusa Ceningan, take an overnight tour of the island with JED, a cultural organisation that gives people an in-depth look at village and cultural life. Trips include family accommodation in a village, local meals, a fascinating tour with seaweed workers and transport to/from mainland Bali.

  4Sleeping & Eating

  Le Pirate Beach ClubGUESTHOUSE$$

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-487240; www.lepirate-beachclub.com; Nusa Ceningan; r incl breakfast from 900,000Rp; aWs)

  With a colour scheme of sprightly white and blue, the theme here is retro-chic island kitsch. The accommodation consists of air-conditioned beach boxes, which range from bunk beds that sleep four to doubles. The popular restaurant looks over the small kidney-shaped pool and has broad views of the channel. Two-night minimum.

  Sea Breeze WarungINDONESIAN$

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; Nusa Ceningan; mains 30,000-70,000Rp; h8am-10pm)

  The charming Sea Breeze has a great location overlooking the water and the seaweed harvest, and an attractive open-air setting decorated with plants. It offers an excellent seafood selection, and does a tasty nasi campur.

  Nusa Penida

  %0366

  Largely overlooked by tourists, Nusa Penida awaits discovery. It's an untrammelled place that answers the question: what would Bali be like if tourists never came?

  Nusa Penida was once used as a place of banishment for criminals and other undesirables from the kingdom of Klungkung. It’s thought to be home to demons. Life is simple here and there are not a lot of formal activities or sights; rather, you go to Nusa Penida to explore and relax.

  1Sights & Activities

  Nusa Penida has world-class diving. Most people make arrangements through dive shops on Nusa Lembongan.

  Between Toyapakeh and Sampalan there is excellent cycling on the beautiful, flat coastal road. The roads elsewhere are good for mountain bikes. Ask around to rent a bike, which should cost about 25,000Rp per day.

  At Batukandik, a rough road and a 1.5km track lead to a spectacular waterfall (Air Terjun), which crashes onto a small beach.

  oPura Dalem Penetaran PedHINDU TEMPLE

  ( GOOGLE MAP )F

  The important temple of Pura Dalem Penetaran Ped is near the beach at Ped, 3.5km east of Toyapakeh. It houses a shrine for the demon Jero Gede Macaling that is a source of power for practitioners of black magic, and a place of pilgrimage for those seeking protection from sickness and evil.

  Octopus DiveDIVING

  (%0878 6268 0888; www.octopusdive-pelabuhanratu.com; Bodong; 2-tank dives from 1,000,000Rp)

  A small and enthusiastic local dive operator.

  Penida ToursCULTURAL TOUR

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0852 0587 1291; www.penidatours.com; Bodong, Ped; tours from 500,000Rp; h9am-6pm)

  A great local operation that arranges culutral tours around Penida, covering anything from black magic to seaweed farming. It's a bit on the pricey side, but few leave disappointed. The office is located next door to Gallery cafe.

  4Sleeping & Eating

  Ped

  Just 600m west of the Balinese temple, the tiny village of Bodong has a burgeoning traveller scene.

  Jero RawaHOMESTAY$

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0852 0586 6886; www.jerorawa.com; Jl Raya Ped; r incl breakfast with fan/air-con 175,000/275,000Rp)

  Run by a delightful family, this laid-back guesthouse has clean bungalow-style rooms just across the street from the beach.

  Ring Sameton InnGUESTHOUSE$$

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0813- 798 5141; www.ringsameton-nusapenida.com; Bodong; r incl breakfast 500,000Rp; aWs)

  If you're seeking comfort, this is easily the best place to stay on Penida. As well as spiffy business-style rooms with air-con and wi-fi, there's a pool, an atmospheric restaurant and quick beach access.

  oGalleryCAFE$

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0819 9988 7205; Bodong; mains 25,000Rp; h7.30am-9pm)

  A popular spot for volunteers at the NGOs, this small cafe and shop is run by the ever-charming Mike, a Brit who is a font of Penida knowledge. There's art on the walls, hand-roasted filter coffee and a Western menu of breakfasts items and sandwiches.

  Penida ColadaCAFE$

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.facebook.com/penidacolada; Bodong; mains 35,000-60,000Rp; h9am-late; W)

  The cocktails at this charming seaside-shack cafe, run by an Indo–Aussie husband-wife team, are a must. Fresh, creative concoctions include aloe-lime mojitos and dragon-fruit daiquiris to go with a menu of grilled fish, BLT toasties and handcut chips with aioli. There's often a seafood barbecue in the evenings.

  Warung Pondok Nusa PenidaINDONESIAN$

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; Bodong; mains from 27,000Rp; h9am-9pm)

  A cute little breezy place right on the beach. Enjoy well-prepared Indo classics and seafood (plus the odd international item) while taking in the views to Bali. Try the 'seaweed mocktail' dessert.

  Sampalan

  Sampalan, the main town on Penida, is a surprisingly hectic strip full of commerce.

  MaeMae Beach HouseGUESTHOUSE$

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0817 479 4176; maemaebeachhouse2015@gmail.com; Kutampi; r with fan/air-con 250,000/300,000Rp; aW)

  In the town of Kutampi just outside Sampalan, this guesthouse is convenient for the main harbour. The manager Agus speaks excellent English and is a wealth of knowledge about everything Penida. Rooms are modern, but with a few rough edges. The chilled-out warung does decent food and is close to the water.

  8Information

  Services are limited to small shops in the main towns. There are a few ATMs, but it's wise to bring enough cash and anything else you’ll need.

  8Getting There & Away

  Speedboats on Penida depart from Buyuk harbour in Kutampi village, heading to Sanur (175,000Rp, 45 minutes) and Padangbai (110,000Rp, 25 minutes). A large car ferry also operates daily (passenger/motorcycle 27,300/39,000Rp, two hours) to/from Padangbai.

  If you come by boat from Nusa Lembongan, you'll probably be dropped at the beach at Toyapakeh, a pretty village with lots of shady trees. Public boats run between Jungutbatu and Toyapakeh (30,000Rp, one hour) between 5.30am and 6am and there are also several trips a day between Lembongan village and Toyapakeh on fast boats (50,000Rp). Otherwise, charter a boat for 400,000Rp return.

  8Getting Around

  To see the island you can rent a motorbike, or charter a private vehicle with driver from 350,000Rp for a half-day.

  Ubud

  %0361

  Serving as the perf
ect antidote to the fun lovin' beaches of the south, Ubud is the place to go once you're done partying hard and need some spiritual cleansing and detox. Framed by stunning green rice fields, lush jungles, ravines and rivers, the town of Ubud is justifiably one of Asia's most famous tourist towns. Though its main streets are often clogged with traffic, all it takes is a short stroll (or better yet, a long hike) and you'll find yourself immersed in its idyllic green surrounds.

  A patron of the arts as well as a cradle for Balinese culture, Ubud showcases traditional Balinese dance and artworks, and its ornate architecture is on show in its many palaces, Hindu temples and shrines. And despite its touristy make-up, Ubud remains a wonderful place to observe traditional Balinese life through its daily offerings and Hindu rituals.

  It also beckons as a spiritual retreat. Yoga is the big draw, and many relaxation and wellness centres offer every kind of treatment. Food is another highlight: Ubud has some of the most creative restaurants in Indonesia. While you'll find a big emphasis on organic and vegetarian fare, don't miss the traditional Balinese food here.

  Spend a few days in Ubud to appreciate it properly. Ubud is one of those places where days can become weeks and weeks become months, as the noticeable expat community demonstrates.

  Ubud Area