Lonely Planet Indonesia
Page 52
oBloo Lagoon VillageHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0363-41211; www.bloolagoon.com; Jl Silayukti; r incl breakfast from US$140; aWs)S
While far from five-star, the open-air, self-contained bungalows that overlook Blue Lagoon Beach are incredible value. Designed in traditional thatched style, they're full of character. Stylish units come with one, two or three bedrooms. Yoga classes (inclusive in rates) are held in a space with inspiring ocean views, and good-value diving packages are available. An inviting lagoon pool is another highlight.
Topi InnCAFE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0363-41424; Jl Silayukti; mains from 50,000Rp; h7.30am-10pm)S
Juices, shakes and good coffees are served up throughout the day. Breakfasts are big, and whatever is landed by the fishing boats outside the front door during the day is grilled by night. Refill your water bottle here for 2000Rp. It also has an atmospheric bamboo bar selling Balinese wines and cheap beers.
7Shopping
Ryan ShopMARKET
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0363-41215; Jl Segara 38; h8am-8pm)
The perennial pleasures of the Ryan Shop can't be underestimated. It has good used paperbacks and sundries.
8Information
There are several ATMs around town.
8Getting There & Away
Bemo
Padangbai is 2km south of the main Semarapura−Amlapura road. If you're lucky, but it's unlikely, there will be a bemo leaving from the car park in front of the port; some go east via Candidasa to Amlapura (10,000Rp); others go west to Semarapura (10,000Rp).
Boat
There are two options for travel between Bali and Lombok and the Gilis: fast boats or public ferry. Be sure to consider important safety information. Boats also head to Nusa Lembongan.
Public ferries (child/adult/motorbike/car 29,000/44,000/123,000/879,000Rp, four hours) travel between Padangbai and Lembar (Lombok) every hour from 5am to 3pm. Passenger tickets are sold near the pier. Note that these boats don't have the best safety record, and have in the past caught on fire and run aground.
Fast boats to the Gilis (one way 660,000Rp to 700,000Rp, 1½ hours) and Nusa Lembongan (300,000Rp, 30 minutes) are a safer option. Most prices include hotel transfer from south Bali.
GilicatBOAT
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0363-41441; www.gilicat.com; Made's Homestay, Jl Silayukti)
The most established of the fast-boat operators has an office at the waterfront. Trips to the Gili Islands cost adult/child one way 700,000/490,000Rp.
Eka JayaBOAT
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-849 6222; www.baliekajaya.com)
A reputable fast-boat company running three morning services to the Gili Islands (one way/return 660,000/1,200,000Rp) and an afternoon boat to Nusa Lembongan (one way/return 300,000/550,000Rp, 30 minutes).
Tourist Shuttle Bus
Perama ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0363-41419; Jl Pelabuhan; h7am-8pm) services destinations around the east coast including Candidasa (35,000Rp, 30 minutes), Kuta (75,000Rp, three hours), Sanur (75,000Rp, two hours), Ubud (75,000Rp, two hours) and Amed (100,000Rp, 2½ hours).
Padangbai to Candidasa
It's 11km along the main road from the Padangbai turn-off to the tourist town of Candidasa. Between the two towns is an attractive stretch of coast, which has some tourist development and a large oil-storage depot in Teluk Amuk.
Coming from the west, there are hotels and guesthouses well off the main road at Mendira, about 2.5km before you reach Candidasa. Although the beach has all but vanished and unsightly sea walls have been constructed, this area is a good choice for a quiet getaway if you have your own transport. Think views, breezes and a good book.
4Sleeping & Eating
oAmarta Beach CottagesHOTEL$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0363-41230; www.amartabeachcottages.com; Jl Raya Mendira, Mendira; d incl breakfast with fan/air-con from 400,0000/500,000Rp, ste from 800,000Rp; aiWs)
In a panoramic seaside setting, the rooms here are right on the water and are good value. The more expensive ones have modern style and open-air bathrooms. The delightful Sea Side restaurant ( GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Raya Mendira; mains from 40,000Rp; h8am-10pm; W) looks out to Nusa Penida – it's a great choice for lunch, whether you are staying here or not.
Candi Beach Resort & SpaRESORT$$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0363-41234; www.candibeachbali.com; Jl Raya Mendira, Mendira; r incl breakfast $US130-330; aWs)
This large beach resort has 84 comfortable rooms and cute individual bungalows. The pool has a nice beige-stone look, framed by the sea view and palm trees, and is located just up from a semi-decent beach. The much-lauded Bali Conservancy (%0822 3739 8415; www.bali-conservancy.com; walks from adult/child US$40/30) runs nature tours in conjunction with the hotel.
Tenganan
Step back several centuries with a visit to Tenganan, home of the Bali Aga people – the descendants of the original Balinese who inhabited Bali before the Majapahit arrival in the 11th century.
The Bali Aga are reputed to be exceptionally conservative and resistant to change. Well, that's only partially true: TVs and other modern conveniences are hidden away in the traditional houses. But it is fair to say that the village has a much more traditional feel than most other villages in Bali. Cars and motorcycles are forbidden from entering. It should also be noted that this is a real village, not a creation for tourists.
The most striking feature of Tenganan is its postcard-like beauty, with the hills providing a photogenic backdrop to its setting. The compact 500m by 250m village is surrounded by a wall, and basically consists of two rows of identical houses stretching up the gentle slope of a hill. As you enter the village (10,000Rp donation) through one of only three gates, you'll likely be greeted by a guide who will take you on a tour – and generally lead you back to their family compound to look at textiles and lontar strips (specially prepared palm leaves). However, there's no pressure to buy anything.
A peculiar, old-fashioned version of the gamelan known as the gamelan selunding is still played here, and girls dance an equally ancient dance known as the Rejang. There are other Bali Aga villages nearby, including Tenganan Dauh Tenkad, 1.5km west off the Tenganan road, which has several weaving workshops and a charming, old-fashioned ambience.
8Getting There & Away
Tenganan is 3.2km up a side road just west of Candidasa. At the turn-off where bemos stop, motorcycle riders offer rides on ojeks (motorcycles that take passengers) to the village for about 25,000Rp. A nice option is to take an ojek up to Tenganan, and enjoy a shady downhill walk back to the main road, which has a Bali rarity: wide footpaths.
Candidasa
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Candidasa is a relaxed spot on the route east, with hotels and some decent restaurants. However, it also has problems stemming from decisions made three decades ago that should serve as cautionary notes to any previously undiscovered place that suddenly finds itself on the map.
Until the 1970s, Candidasa was just a quiet little fishing village, then beachside losmen (budget accommodation) and restaurants sprang up, and suddenly it was the new beach sensation in Bali. As the facilities developed, the beach eroded – unthinkingly, offshore barrier-reef corals were harvested to produce lime for cement in the orgy of construction that took place – and by the late 1980s Candidasa was a beach resort with no beach.
Mining stopped in 1991, and concrete sea walls and breakwaters have limited erosion and now provide some tiny pockets of sand. The relaxed seaside ambience and sweeping views from the hotels built right on the water appeal to a more mature crowd of visitors. Candidasa is a good base from which to explore the interior of east Bali on a walk; it's also a place to spend some quiet time.
While Candidasa lacks a decent beach, fortunately nearby Pasir Putih is a wonderful spot to hang out for the day.
Candidasa
2Activities, Courses & Tours
1Dive LiteC1
4Sleeping
2Ari Home StayA1
3Rama Shinta HotelD2
4Seaside CottagesB1
5Eating
5Crazy KangarooC1
6Vincent'sD1
2Activities
Gili Tepekong has a series of coral heads at the top of a sheer drop-off and is the best local dive site. It offers the chance to see lots of fish, including some larger marine life, but it's recommended for experienced divers only.
Hotels rent snorkel sets for about 30,000Rp per day. For the best snorkelling, take a boat to offshore sites or to Gili Mimpang (a one-hour boat trip should cost about 100,000Rp for up to three people).
Dive LiteDIVING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0363-41660; www.divelite.com; Jl Raya Candidasa; dives from US$90)
Best option in town for the local area or nearby sites such as Penida. The Intro to Diving course is an excellent deal: US$90 gets you a dive with basic instruction followed by a supervised fun dive. It's a great way to see if diving is for you. Night dives to the Liberty wreck are available, as are snorkelling trips (US$30).
oTrekking CandidasaWALKING TOUR
(%0878 6145 2001; www.trekkingcandidasa.com; walks from 250,000Rp)
The delightful Somat leads walks through the verdant hills behind Candidasa. One popular route takes 90 minutes and follows rice field paths to Tenganan.
4Sleeping & Eating
Candidasa's busy main drag is well supplied with seaside accommodation, as well as restaurants and other tourist facilities. Quieter places can be found east of the centre along Jl Pantai Indah. These are nicely relaxed and often have a sliver of beach.
Rama Shinta HotelHOTEL$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0363-41778; www.ramashintahotel.com; off Jl Raya Candidasa; r incl breakfast 400,000-600,000Rp; aWs)
On a little lane near the lagoon and ocean, Rama Shinta's 15 rooms are split between a two-storey stone structure and bungalows. They've been nicely updated with outdoor bathrooms. It's worth upgrading to an upstairs room for views of the lagoon and its bird life. The pool area is an inviting spot for lounging.
Ari Home StayGUESTHOUSE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0817 970 7339; www.arihomestay.com; Jl Raya Candidasa; r with fan/air-con 150,000/300,000Rp; aW)
Run by the ebullient Gary and his family, Ari Home Stay has rooms that ramble over the compound, and range from cold-water with fans to air-con with hot water. Its position on the main road across from the water isn't ideal, but very cold beer is always available and there's a pleasurable shack hot-dog restaurant, too.
Seaside CottagesGUESTHOUSE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0363-41629; www.balibeachfront-cottages.com; Jl Raya Candidasa; cottages 190,000-550,000Rp; aiW)
A well-established, popular choice, the 15 rooms here are in cottages and span the gamut from cold-water basic with ineffectual fans, to restful units with air-con and tropical bathrooms. The seafront has loungers right along the breakwater. The Temple Café is a well-regarded restaurant; eat there or dine on tables set along the water.
oVincent'sINTERNATIONAL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0363-41368; www.vincentsbali.com; Jl Raya Candidasa; meals 60,000-150,000Rp; h8am-11pm; W)
One of east Bali's classiest restaurants, Vincent's has several distinct open-air rooms, and a large and lovely rear garden with rattan furniture. The bar is an oasis of jazz. The menu combines excellent and inventive Balinese, fresh seafood and European dishes. Thursday evenings there's live music.
Crazy KangarooPUB FOOD$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0363-41996; www.crazy-kangaroo.com; Jl Raya Candidasa; mains 40,000-120,000Rp; h10am-late; W)
Wild by local standards, this pub is full of characters propped up at the bar to watch sports on the telly, shooting pool or grabbing a feed. The food is good, cooked in an open kitchen that mixes Western and local dishes with tasty seafood specials. There are often performances in the evening, from fire dancing to live music.
8Information
Candidasa has many ATMs.
8Getting There & Away
Candidasa is on the main road between Amlapura and south Bali, but there's no terminal, so hail bemos, as buses probably won't stop. You'll need to change in either Padangbai or Semarapura going west.
Perama ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0363-41114; Jl Raya Candidasa; h7am-7pm) is at the western end of the strip. Shuttle bus destinations include Kuta (75,000Rp, three hours), Sanur (75,000Rp, 2½ hours) and Ubud (75,000Rp, two hours).
WORTH A TRIP
PASIR PUTIH
The most popular 'secret' beach on Bali, Pasir Putih (aka Dream Beach, aka Virgin Beach) is an idyllic white-sand beach whose name indeed means 'White Sand'. When we first visited in 2004, it was empty, save for a row of fishing boats at one end. Now it's an ongoing lab in seaside economic development.
A dozen thatched beach warungs and cafes now line the sand. You can get nasi goreng or grilled fish. Bintang is of course on ice and loungers await bikini-clad bottoms. The beach itself is truly lovely: a long crescent of white sand backed by coconut trees. At one end cliffs provide shade. The surf is often mellow; you can rent snorkelling gear to explore the waters.
The one thing saving Pasir Putih from being swamped is the difficult access. Look for crude signs with the various monikers near the village of Perasi. Turn off the main road (8km east of Candidasa) and follow a pretty paved track for about 1.5km to a temple, where locals will collect a fee for entry (3000Rp per person) and parking (10,000Rp per vehicle).
Candidasa to Amlapura
The main road east of Candidasa curves up to Pura Gamang Pass (gamang means 'to get dizzy' – an overstatement), from where you'll find fine views down to the coast and lots of greedy-faced monkeys. If you walk along the coastline from Candidasa towards Amlapura, a trail climbs up over the headland, offering fine views over the rocky islets off the coast. Beyond this headland there's a long sweep of wide, exposed black-sand beach.
2Activities
oUforiaTOUR
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0363-21687; www.balichocolate.com; Jl Pura Mastima, Karangaasem; h9am-noon & 2-5pm)
Uforia (12km east of Candidasa) produces its own range of single-origin chocolate on-site using elements of permaculture and organic ingredients. The tours (held from June to August) offer fascinating insight into the production process; call ahead for bookings and directions. Each Saturday you can take part in a workshop where you make your own personalised chocolate bars from scratch using a choice of ingredients.
Other times stop by the showroom for generous tastings and to stock up on goods.
Amlapura
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Amlapura is the tidy capital of Karangasem district, and the main town and transport junction in eastern Bali. It's the smallest of Bali's district capitals, and features quaint, wide, leafy residential streets and colonial architecture. It's a multicultural place, with Chinese shophouses and several mosques, and has confusing one-way streets. It's worth a stop to see the royal palaces.
1Sights
Amlapura's atmospheric palaces, on Jl Teuku Umar, are vintage reminders of Karangasem at its most important, as a kingdom supported by Dutch colonial power in the late 19th and early 20th centuries.
Puri Agung KarangasemPALACE
( GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Teuku Umar; adult/child 10,000/5000Rp; h8am-5pm)
Outside the orderly Puri Agung Karangasem there are beautifully sculpted panels and an impressive multi-tiered entry gate. After you pass through the entry courtyard (all entrances point you towards the rising sun in the east), a left turn takes you to the main building, known as the Maskerdam (Amsterdam), because it was built by the Dutch as a reward for the Karangasem kingdom’s acquiescence to Dutch rule. This submission allowed the kingdom to hang on long after the demise of other Balinese kingdoms.
Inside you'll see several rooms, including the royal bedroom and a living room with furniture that was a gift from the Dutch royal family. The Maskerdam faces the ornately decorated Bale Pemandesan, which was used for royal tooth-filing ceremonies. Beyond this, surrounded by a pond, is the Bale Kambang, still used for family meetings a
nd for dance practice.
Borrow one of the handy English-language info sheets and think about what this compound must have been like when the Karangasem dynasty was at its peak in the 19th century, having conquered Lombok. Don't miss the vintage photos.
Puri GedePALACE
( GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Teuku Umar; h8am-6pm)F
Puri Gede is still used by the royal family. Surrounded by long walls, the palace grounds feature many brick buildings dating from the Dutch colonial period. Look for 19th-century stone carvings and woodcarvings. The Rangki, the main palace building, has been returned to its glory and is surrounded by fish ponds.
8Getting There & Away
Amlapura is a major transport hub. Minibuses and bemos regularly ply the main road towards Denpasar's Batubulan terminal (35,000Rp, roughly three hours) via Candidasa (10,000Rp), Padangbai and Gianyar. Plenty of minibuses also go around the north coast to Singaraja (about 30,000Rp) via Tirta Gangga, Amed and Tulamben.
Tirta Gangga
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Tirta Gangga (Water of the Ganges) is the site of a holy temple, some great water features and some of the best views of rice fields and the sea beyond in east Bali. Capping a sweep of green flowing down to the distant sea, it is a relaxing place to stop for an hour or a few days. With more time you can hike the surrounding terraced countryside, which ripples with coursing water and is dotted with temples.