Lonely Planet Indonesia

by Lonely Planet

  rBeaches

  Kuta's main beach can easily snare you and keep you from looking elsewhere. It's got ideal white sand and all those views. Plus the surf is just right for swimming. But even here change looms: most of the beach cafes that used to line the sand have been demolished and the local government has planted some trees. (Although a few bamboo joints have snuck back in to vend beer at night.) It's slightly bleak, but then again, there's that water…

  2Activities

  There's a whole row of activity sales agents across the road from Lamancha Homestay. They can set you up on anything from surf tours to snorkelling in obscure locations. Bargain hard.

  Surfing

  For surfing, stellar lefts and rights break on the reefs off Kuta Bay (Telek Kuta) and east of Tanjung An. Boatmen will take you out for around 150,000Rp. Seven kilometres east of Kuta is the fishing village of Gerupuk (Click here), where there’s a series of reef breaks, both close to the shore and further out, but they require a boat, at a negotiable 300,000Rp per day. However savvy surfers buzz past Gerupuk and take the road to to Ekas (Click here), where crowds are thin and surf is plentiful. West of Kuta you’ll find Mawan (Click here), a stunning swimming beach (the first left after Astari), and Mawi, a popular surf paradise (Click here) with world-class swells and a strong rip tide.

  Kimen SurfSURFING

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0370-655064; www.kuta-lombok.net; Jl ke Mawan; board rental per day 100,000Rp, lessons per person from 500,000Rp; h9am-8pm)

  Swell forecasts, tips, kitesurfing, board rental, repairs and lessons. It runs guided excursions to breaks such as Gerupuk (400,000Rp).

  Diving

  Scuba FroggyDIVING

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0877 6510 6945; www.scubafroggy.com; Jl ke Mawan; open-water course US$360; h9am-8pm)

  Runs local trips to a dozen sites, most no deeper than 18m. From June to November it also runs trips to the spectacular and challenging ocean pinnacles in Blongas Bay, famous for schooling hammerheads and mobula rays. Snorkelling trips are 150,000Rp.

  Discovery Divers LombokDIVING

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0812 3629 4178; www.discoverydiverslombok.com; Jl ke Mawan; 2 local dives from 1,200,000Rp; h8am-9pm)

  A big, glossy operation, this dive shop has a full slate of courses, and runs tours through the region. It also has a very nice and welcoming cafe.

  NYALE FESTIVAL

  On the 19th day of the 10th month in the Sasak calendar (generally February or March), hundreds of Sasaks gather on the beach at Kuta, Lombok. When night falls, fires are built and teens sit around competing in a Sasak poetry slam, where they spit rhyming couplets called pantun back and forth. At dawn the next day, the first of millions of nyale (wormlike fish that appear here annually) are caught, then teenage girls and boys take to the sea separately in decorated boats, and chase one another with lots of noise and laughter. The nyale are eaten raw or grilled, and are considered to be an aphrodisiac. A good catch is a sign that a bumper crop of rice is coming.

  4Sleeping

  Prices increase markedly in the July–August high season. Beware of ageing, run-down hotels along Jl Raya Pantai Kuta.

  oBombara BungalowsGUESTHOUSE$

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0370-615 8056; bomborabungalows@yahoo.com; Jl Raya Kuta; r 350,000-450,000Rp; aWs)

  One of the best places for a low-cost stay in Kuta, these eight (some fan-cooled) bungalows are built around a lovely pool area. Coconut palms shade loungers and the entire place feels like an escape from the hubbub of town. The staff understand the needs of surfers, and everyone else for that matter.

  Bule HomestayGUESTHOUSE$

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0819 1799 6256; bulehomestay.com; Jl Raya Bypass; r 250,000-300,000Rp; aW)

  Although it's about 2km back from the beach near the junction of Jl Raya Kuta and Jl Raya Bypass, this eight-bungalow complex is worth consideration simply for the snappy way it's run. Dirt doesn't dare enter the small compound, where rooms gleam with a hospital white. It is surrounded by a wall that could have been in The Flintstones.

  Sekar KuningINN$

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0370-615 4856; Jl Raya Pantai Kuta; r from 200,000Rp; aW)

  A charming beach-road inn. Tiled rooms have high ceilings, pastel paint jobs, ceiling fans, and bamboo furniture on the patio. Top-floor rooms have ocean views and are more expensive.

  Mimpi ManisB&B$

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0818 369 950; www.mimpimanis.com; off Jl Raya Kuta; r 150,000-350,000Rp; aW)

  An inviting English–Balinese-owned B&B in a two-storey house with three spotless rooms (one with air-con), with en-suite showers, TVs and DVD players. There are plenty of good books to browse and DVDs to borrow. It’s 1km inland from the beach; the owners offer a free drop-off service to the beach and town, and arrange bike and motorbike rental.

  oYuli's HomestayHOMESTAY$$

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0819 1710 0983; www.yulishomestay.com; off Jl Raya Kuta; r 400,000-500,000Rp; aWs)

  A popular choice, the 13 rooms here are immaculately clean, spacious and nicely furnished with huge beds and wardrobes. They also have big front terraces, and cold-water bathrooms. There's a guest kitchen, and a garden and pool to enjoy.

  Novotel Lombok Resort & VillasRESORT$$$

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0370-615 3333; www.novotel.com; r/villas from US$120/250; aWs)

  One of the nicest beach resorts in NTT, this appealing, Sasak-themed four-star resort spills onto a superb beach less than 3km east of the junction. The 102 rooms have high sloping roofs and modern interiors. There are two pools, a spa, resort-style restaurants, a swanky bar and a plethora of activities on offer. Note: wi-fi doesn't work in the rooms.

  5Eating & Drinking

  Kuta's dining scene has improved with growth, but at most local joints the Indo nosh or fresh seafood are the smart choices. The market ( GOOGLE MAP ; off Jl Raya Kuta; hSun & Wed) sells an ever-changing variety of foodstuffs and basic necessities.

  Full Moon CafeCAFE$

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Raya Pantai Kuta; mains from 30,000Rp; h8am-late; W)

  Right across from the beach, the second-floor cafe here is like a tree house with killer ocean views. The menu has all the standards, from banana pancakes to various Indo rice creations. Come for the view and sunset, then hang out.

  oWarung BuleSEAFOOD$$

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0819 1799 6256; Jl Raya Pantai Kuta; mains 40,000-250,000Rp; h8am-10pm; W)

  Arguably the best restaurant in Kuta, founded by the long-time executive chef at the Novotel, who delivers tropical seafood tastes at an affordable price. We like the tempura starter. His trio of lobster, prawns and mahi mahi might have you cooing. It gets very busy in high season, so be prepared for a wait.

  El BazarMEDITERRANEAN$$

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0819 9911 3026; Jl Raya Kuta; mains 30,000-150,000Rp; h8am-11pm)

  A small cafe that's big on flavour. Pass by the flowers at the entrance and you'll be entranced by authentic tastes from around the Mediterranean. Hearty soups, salads, luscious aubergine, Moroccan tagines and more.

  oWarung RastaBAR

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0882 1907 1744; Jl Raya Pantai Kuta; h8am-late)

  The local owners of this barely there shack of a bar have created a laid-back party vibe that draws in crowds each night. Guitars get strummed and surfers compete in 'strawpedo' contests that involve beer-chugging with the strategic aid of straws. Hungry? Enjoy cheap Indo standards.

  Surfer's BarBAR

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0878 6456 8195; www.facebook.com/surfersbarkutalombok; Jl Raya Pantai Kuta; h9am-late)

  Tables are scattered across the sand at this thumping dive bar, which has frequent live music.

  8Information

  ATMs are common, as is wi-fi.

  Dangers & Annoyances

  If you decide to rent a bicycle or motorbike, take care when selecting a supplier – arrangements are informal and no rental contracts are exchanged. We have received occasional reports of some visitors having motorbikes stolen, and then having to pay substantial sums of money as compensation to
the owner (who may or may not have arranged the 'theft' themselves). Renting a motorbike from your guesthouse is safest.

  As you drive up the coastal road west and east of Kuta, watch your back – especially after dark. There have been reports of muggings in the area.

  Throngs of vendors – many children – are relentless.

  8Getting There & Away

  You'll need at least three bemos to get here just from Mataram. Take one from Mataram’s Mandalika terminal to Praya (15,000Rp), another to Sengkol (5000Rp) and a third to Kuta (5000Rp).

  Simpler are the daily tourist buses serving Mataram (125,000Rp) plus Senggigi and Lembar (both 150,000Rp).

  A taxi to the airport costs 60,000Rp.

  Ride-share cars are widely advertised around town. Destinations include: Bangsal for Gili Islands public boats (160,000Rp), Seminyak (Bali) via the public ferry (200,000Rp), and Senaru (400,000Rp).

  8Getting Around

  Guesthouses rent motorbikes for about 60,000Rp to 70,000Rp per day.

  Ojek congregate around the junction.

  East of Kuta

  A good paved road runs along the coast to the east and Ekas, passing a seemingly endless series of beautiful bays punctuated by headlands. It's a terrific motorbike ride.

  Pantai Segar & Tanjung An

  Pantai Segar, a lovely beach about 2km east of Kuta around the first headland, has unbelievably turquoise water, decent swimming (though no shade) and a break 200m offshore.

  Continuing 3km east on an increasingly rough road, Tanjung An (or variously Aan or Ann) is a spectacular sight: a giant horseshoe bay with two sweeping arcs of fine sand with the ends punctuated by waves crashing on the rocks. Swimming is good here and there's a little shade under trees and shelters, plus safe parking (for a small charge). Bamboo warungs offer meals, beers, beach chairs and more.

  Construction of the long-rumoured huge international resort here has finally begun. Vast boulevards are in the works for the former marshlands behind the beach and other developments will follow. Expect the area to change greatly in the next few years.

  Gerupuk

  Just 1.6km past Tanjung An, Gerupuk is a fascinating little ramshackle coastal village where the thousand or so local souls earn their keep from fishing, seaweed harvesting and lobster exports. Oh, and guiding and ferrying surfers to the five exceptional surf breaks in its huge bay.

  To surf here you'll need to hire a boat to ferry you from the fishing harbour, skirting the netted lobster farms, to the break (200,000Rp). The boatman will help you find the right wave and wait patiently. There are four waves inside and a left break outside on the point. All can get head high or bigger when the swell hits.

  4Sleeping & Eating

  There is a growing number of hotels and warungs popular with surfers in Gerupuk.

  Surf Camp LombokSURF CAMP$

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0819 1608 6876; www.surfcampindonesia.com; Gerupuk; 1 week from €650)S

  Lodging at this fun surf resort at the eastern end of Gerupuk village is in a bamboo Borneo-style longhouse, albeit with lots of high-tech diversions. The beach setting feels lush and remote. All meals are included plus surf lessons, yoga and more. Rooms sleep four, except for one double. Recycling and other eco-friendly practices are embraced.

  Edo HomestayINN$

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0818 0371 0521; Gerupuk; r 150,000-600,000Rp; aWs)

  Right in the village, this place offers 18 clean rooms (some fan-cooled). Most have colourful drapes and double beds; top-end rooms are in a villa. It has a decent restaurant and a surf shop too (boards per day 100,000Rp).

  Ekas

  Ekas is an uncrowded find, where the breaks and soaring cliffs recall Bali's Ulu Watu - but an almost deserted Ulu Watu. It's easy to drive here from both the west and the north. From Kuta, it's under 90 minutes on a scooter.

  Ekas itself is a sleepy little village, but head south into the peninsula and you'll soon make the sorts of jaw-dropping discoveries that will have you tweeting like mad. Start by driving all the way south (6.5km from Ekas) over the rough but passable road to Pantai Dagong. Here, you'll find an utterly empty and seemingly endless white beach backed by azure breakers.

  Ask directions to Heaven Beach for another bit of sandy wonder. It's a stunning little pocket of white sand and surf about 4km from Ekas. Despite the omnipresent resort, you're free to access the shore: all Indonesian beaches are public.

  4Sleeping & Eating

  There are posh boutique resorts hidden on the beautiful coves south of Ekas. Also look out for new and simple guesthouses along the rural roads.

  Heaven on the PlanetBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0812 375 1103; www.sanctuaryinlombok.com; per person all-inclusive US$160-225; aWs)

  The aptly named Heaven on the Planet has five units scattered along a cliff's edge, from where you'll have spectacular bird's-eye views of the sea and swell lines. Heaven is primarily a surf resort (you can even surf at night here thanks to ocean spotlights) but kitesurfing, scuba diving and snorkelling are also possible.

  West of Kuta

  West of Kuta is a series of awesome beaches and ideal surf breaks. Developers are nosing around here, and land has changed hands, but for now it remains almost pristine and the region has a raw beauty. In anticipation of future developments, the road has been much improved and electrical wires strung. It meanders inland, skirting tobacco, sweet potato and rice fields in between turn-offs to the sand and glimpses of the gorgeous coast.

  Mawan

  How's this for a vision of sandy paradise? Just 600m off the main road (9km from Kuta), this half-moon cove is framed by soaring headlands with azure water and a swathe of empty sand (save a fishing village of a dozen thatched homes). It's a terrific swimming beach. There's paved parking (car/motorbike 10,000/5000Rp) and some modest cafes.

  Mawi

  Some 16km west of Kuta, look for a small road down to Mawi. This is a surf paradise: a stunning scene, with legendary barrels and several beaches scattered around the great bay. Watch out for the strong rip tide. There's parking (car/motorbike 10,000/5000Rp) and vendors.

  Selong Blanak

  West of Mawi, and just when you think you've seen the most beautiful beaches Kuta has to offer, you reach Selong Blanak. Behold the wide, sugar-white beach with water streaked a thousand shades of blue, ideal for swimming. You can rent surfboards (per day 100,000Rp) and arrange for a boat out to area breaks (three hours from 500,000Rp). The parking lot (car/motorbike 10,000/5000Rp) is just 400m off the main drag on a good road.

  4Sleeping & Eating

  Sempiak VillasRESORT$$$

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0821 4430 3337; www.sempiakvillas.com; Solong Blanak; villas from 1,200,000Rp; as)

  Tucked away on the cliffs, this fabulous boutique resort is one of the Kuta area's most upscale properties. The six villas are built into the hillside above the beach and feature antique wood; some have covered decks with stupendous views.

  oLaut Biru Bar & RestaurantSEAFOOD$$

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0821 4430 3339; Selong Blanak; mains 40,000-80,000Rp; h8am-10pm; W)

  On the beach, this light and airy haven is part of the cliffside Sempiak Villas but is open to all-comers. Breakfasts feature muesli and yogurt, banana pancakes and eggs on toast. Lunch and dinner have global influences, and include local and Thai dishes plus seafood. It's a beautiful place, and you can dine on the sand.

  Blongas & Around

  From Pengantap, the road climbs across a headland then descends to a superb bay; follow this around for 1km then look out for the turn-off west to Blongas – a steep and winding road with breathtaking scenery. Blongas is set on a secluded namesake bay that is positively beautiful.

  Dive Zone ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0812 3924 1560, 0819 0785 2073; www.divezone-lombok.com; Blongas Bay; 2 dives from US$100) focuses on the famed nearby dive sites Magnet and Cathedrals. Spotting conditions peak in mid-September when you may see schooling mobula rays in addition to hammerheads, which school around the pinnacle (a towering ro
ck that breaks the surface of the ocean and is the heart of the dive sites) from June to November. It's not an easy dive, so you must be experienced and prepared for heavy current.

  Labuhan Lombok

  %0376

  Labuhan Lombok (also known as Labuhan Kayangan or Tanjung Kayangan) is the port for ferries and boats to Sumbawa. The town centre of Labuhan Lombok, 3km west of the ferry terminal, is a scruffy place but it does have great views of Gunung Rinjani.

  8Getting There & Away

  Bus & Bemo

  Regular buses and bemos buzz between Mandalika terminal in Mataram and Labuhan Lombok; the journey takes 2½ hours (35,000Rp). Some buses will only drop you off at the port entrance road from where you can catch another bemo to the ferry terminal. Don't walk – it's too far.

  Ferry

  Ferries run hourly, 24 hours a day, between Labuhan Lombok and Poto Tano, Sumbawa (passengers 19,000Rp, 1½ hours). Cars cost 466,000Rp, motorbikes 54,000Rp. Through buses to points east from Bali and Lombok include the ferry fare.

  LOMBOK & SUMBAWA DURING RAMADAN

  Ramadan, the month of fasting, is the ninth month of the Muslim calendar. During daylight hours, many restaurants are closed in Mataram and in conservative east and south Lombok (excepting Kuta and the coast). The same goes for all of the next island east, Sumbawa. At this time, foreigners eating, drinking (especially alcohol) and smoking in public may attract a negative reaction in these areas.