Lonely Planet Indonesia
Page 70
Manggarai Country
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To compare gradations of beauty on Flores is as futile as it is fun. And if you do get into such a debate, know that if you've explored Manggarai's dense and lush rainforests, studded with towering stands of bamboo and elegant tree ferns, and climbed its steep mountains to isolated traditional villages accessible only by trail, you may have the trump card.
Rapidly improving roads are opening up new areas for easy exploration, such as the beach-lined south coast.
Ruteng
The staid and sprawling market city of Ruteng is the area's base of operations. It's barely four hours by car from Labuanbajo. Should you take in a few sights, you'll be overnighting here.
1Sights
oSpiderweb Rice FieldsVIEWPOINT
(Linko; off Trans-Flores Hwy)
The greatest local site is actually 20km west of Ruteng near the village of Cancar. The legendary Spiderweb Rice Fields are vast creations that are shaped exactly as their name implies. The surrounding region is beautifully lush with paddies.
For the best view, stop at a small house (drivers all know this place), tip the genial owners about 10,000Rp, borrow a walking stick and ascend a dirt path to a ridge where the surreal shapes of the rice fields can be fully appreciated.
PasarMARKET
(Market; GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Bhayangkara; h7am-5pm)
Don’t miss the lively, sprawling market, a vital lifeline for villagers in the surrounding hills. Much of it is underground – look for the entrance next to the supermarket.
4Sleeping & Eating
Ruteng is somewhat elevated compared to Bajo, so it can get almost chilly at night.
oKongregasi Santa Maria BerdukacitaGUESTHOUSE$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0385-22834; Jl A Yani 45; r 160,000-350,000Rp)
The best local sleep is in one of the 15 rooms at this convent, where the rooms are huge and spotless, service is excellent, smoking is prohibited, and there is a 9pm curfew. Among the other constraints: breakfast ends at 7.30am and check out is at 9am. It's on a hillside a little south of the centre.
Homestay MbelilingGUESTHOUSE$$
(%0385-22323; homestaymbeliling@yahoo.com; Jl Mbeliling 14; s/d from 225,000/300,000Rp; W)
Set up a modest hill in a quiet neighbourhood south of the centre, this six-room retreat is perfectly calm and tidy. Rooms are large and you can snooze away amid the serenity (and leafy garden).
Rumah Makan Cha ChaINDONESIAN$
(%0385-21489; Jl Diponegoro 12; mains 15,000-30,000Rp; h8am-10pm)
Perched on a hillside overlooking the broad valley, this wooden restaurant is a 15-minute walk from the convent Kongregasi Santa Maria Berdukacita. The Indo standards are well-prepared and it's a relaxing place.
Agape CaféINDONESIAN$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0385-22561; Jl Bhayangkara; dishes 8000-30,000Rp; h8am-10pm; W)
Ruteng makes a fine lunch stop thanks to this cafe that’s popular with both locals and seemingly every traveller who drives past. The dining area is bright and airy, with a high ceiling. The standard Indonesian fare is well-prepared.
8Information
ATMs dot the centre.
8Getting There & Away
The bus terminal for eastern destinations is located 3.5km and a 3000Rp bemo ride out of Ruteng. Local buses heading west still run from the central bus/bemo terminal near the police station. Regular buses head to Bajawa (60,000Rp, five hours) and Labuanbajo (60,000Rp, four hours).
THE FLORES ‘HOBBIT’
The Manggarai have long told folk tales of ebo gogo – hairy little people with flat foreheads who once roamed the jungle. Nobody paid them much attention until September 2003, when archaeologists made a stunning find.
Excavating the limestone cave at Liang Bua, they unearthed a skeleton the size of a three-year-old child but with the worn-down teeth and bone structure of an adult. Six more remains appeared to confirm that the team had unearthed a new species of human, Homo floresiensis, which reached around 1m in height and was nicknamed the ‘hobbit’.
Lab tests brought another surprise. The hominid with the nutcracker jaw and gangly, chimplike arms lived until 12,000 years ago, practically yesterday in evolutionary terms, when a cataclysmic volcanic eruption is thought to have wiped out the little people and devastated the island of Flores.
But not all scientists are convinced on the origins of the Flores species. The prevailing school of thought argues that the Flores hominids are descendants of Homo erectus, a species that fled Africa around two million years ago and spread throughout Asia. Until recently it was thought that the arrival of Homo sapiens in Asia led to the demise of Homo erectus around 50,000 years ago. Flores humans could indicate that the species survived in isolated places.
Rival anthropologists suggest that the Flores find could represent Homo sapiens (who were known to be travelling between Australia and New Guinea 35,000 years ago) that suffered from microcephaly – a neurological disorder causing stunted head growth, and often dwarfism, that runs in families.
But the momentum still seems to be with the original theory, given that the bones of at least eight more individuals have been found at the site with similar characteristics to the first discovery. And with tools very similar to those found in Liang Bua reportedly unearthed in Timor, and possibly in Sulawesi, more little people could yet emerge from the evolutionary backwoods.
Liang Bua
The limestone cave of Liang Bua, where the remains of the Flores ‘hobbit’ were famously found in 2003, is about 14km north of Ruteng, down a rough dirt track that is often impassable. Archaeologists believe that the lip along the entrance permitted sediments to build up steadily as water flowed through the cave over the millennia, sealing in the remains of the humans and animals that lived and died here. It's a rather evocative spot, with the arching entrance to the cave having an otherworldly feel. Local guides, whose service is included in your 30,000Rp entry fee, will meet you at the cave’s entrance and explain why Liang Bua is considered sacred. To get here take an ojek (80,000Rp) from Ruteng.
Wae Rebo
Wae Rebo is the best of Manggarai's traditional villages. Recent road improvements have opened up the area, although it is still very remote.
A village visit involves a splendid but challenging 10km hike that takes four hours and winds past waterfalls and swimming holes, as well as spectacular views of the Savu Sea. Once you arrive in the village you will be treated to indigenous music and dance, and a demonstration of local weaving practices, then bed down in a mbaru tembong (traditional home). All this hospitality deserves a gift of at least 200,000Rp per person.
The next morning you can retrace your steps or choose to hike another six hours over a pass to another trailhead; arrange for pickup here in advance.
You can arrange for guides (400,000Rp) and porters (250,000Rp) at the local guesthouses. Be sure to start very early, to avoid the sweltering heat of midday. Bring water.
4Sleeping
Given that early morning is the optimal time to start the trek to Wae Rebo, you'll want to stay near the trailhead as opposed to in Ruteng.
Wae Rebo LodgeGUESTHOUSE$
(%0852 3934 4046; martin_anggo@yahoo.com; Dintor; r per person per night 220,000Rp)
A purpose-built lodge run by a local from Wae Rebo. It sits serenely amid rice fields and is some 9km from the trailhead. Meals are included in the rates and you can make all trekking arrangements here.
Wae Rebo HomestayHOMESTAY$
(%0813 3935 0775; Denge; r per person per night 200,000Rp)
Right at the trailhead, this is the original place to sleep for people making the Wae Rebo trek. The owners are helpful in arranging village visits and transport. Rates include meals and very basic accommodation.
8Getting There & Away
It's about a three-hour drive from Ruteng to the village trailhead in Denge. You'll need your own wheels for this.
Repi
The southwest coast of Flores is like a Morse code of
beaches: a dot of sand here, a dash there. Improving roads mean it's easier than ever to visit these pristine white beaches, where the only footprints you find might belong to a turtle.
The tiny village of Repi is typical. Impoverished locals have for aeons harvested turtle eggs and engaged in destructive practices such as dynamite fishing in order to survive. Now an innovative program run by Wicked Diving in Labuanbajo is helping to change that. At a beachside bamboo-and-brick outpost called Pante Hera, locals are getting paid for the eggs they find as well as learning how revenue from visitors – who want healthy reefs – can be used to build a reliable water supply and make other improvements. It's an innovative and privately funded effort that's making the beautiful 3km-long beach a haven for leatherback, hawksbill and green turtles.
You can enjoy basic accommodation and meals at Pante Hera (Turtle Beach; %0822 2572 0562; Repi; tent pads for 4 people 300,000Rp, dm per person from 225,000Rp) – meals are included in room rates. There is snorkelling, hiking and cycling plus interactions with locals that often include welcoming ceremonies. Plans are afoot to build private rooms and generally develop the place with the community.
Arrange your stay with Wicked Adventures in Labuanbajo, or visit via your own wheels – but book first so they know you're coming.
Bajawa
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Framed by forested volcanoes and blessed with a pleasant climate, Bajawa, a laid-back hill town at 1100m, is a great base from which to explore dozens of traditional villages that are home to the local Ngada people. Bajawa is the Ngada’s de facto trading post, and you’ll mingle with the locals as you stroll these quiet streets edged by blooming gardens. Gunung Inerie (2245m), a perfectly conical volcano, looms to the south, where you’ll also find some hot springs. The recently emerged volcano, Wawo Muda, with its Kelimutu-esque lakes, is another favourite. Bajawa is a key base for exploring the region's traditional villages.
4Sleeping
Thanks to a growth spurt in Bajawa tourism, local accommodation has been happily spruced up. All prices include breakfast.
oHotel Happy HappyGUESTHOUSE$$
(%0384-421763, 0853 3370 4455; www.hotelhappyhappy.com; Jl Sudirman; r 300,000-350,000Rp; W)
A simple yet classy guesthouse with seven immaculate tiled rooms, brushed with lavender walls, dressed with high-quality linen – a scarcity in Bajawa. There's an amiable sitting area on the patio, free water-bottle refills and an excellent included breakfast. It’s a short walk from the main cluster of tourist businesses.
Sanian Hotel BajawaHOTEL$$
(%0384-21777; www.sanianhotelbajawa.com; Jl DI Panjaitan; r 350,000-550,000Rp; W)
Bajawa's newest place to stay has 11 rooms in a two-storey building near the town centre and market. Rooms are refreshingly spare of extraneous decor. Those upstairs have nice views from the shared balcony.
Villa SilverinLODGE$$
(%0852 5345 3298, 0384-222 3865; www.villasilverinhotel.com; Jl Bajawa; r 350,000-450,000Rp; W)
A fine hillside lodge 3km outside town on the road to Ende, with beckoning verandahs and jaw-dropping valley views. VIP rooms are bright with queen beds and hot water.
Hotel Bintang WisataHOTEL$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0384-21744; Jl Palapa 4; r 200,000-350,000Rp; W)
In a central two-storey block, 24 basic tiled rooms are set in an arc around a parking lot where drivers lounge about awaiting their charges. Upstairs VIP rooms have terraces, hot water and great views of the surrounding hills. The cheapest rooms are cold-water only – a bracing prospect as nights can get chilly.
5Eating
Bajawa's best places to eat are clustered around other visitor services just south of the centre.
Dito’sINDONESIAN$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0384-21162; Jl Ahmad Yani; mains 25,000-50,000Rp; h8am-10pm)
Dito's does a brisk business serving pork and chicken sate and fresh tuna bakar, which is sourced from nearby Aimere and grilled to perfection. The tamarillo juice is delish.
CamelliaINDONESIAN$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0384-21458; Jl Ahmad Yani 74; mains 20,000-35,000Rp; h8am-10pm)
The dining room is brightly lit, the better for reading your guidebook. There are Western dishes, but try the chicken sate – it comes with a unique sweet, smoky pepper sauce.
LucasINDONESIAN$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0384-21340; Jl Ahmad Yani; mains 20,000-35,000Rp; h8am-10pm)
This long-running favourite has a new 2nd-floor location, which puts you above traffic and in the midst of pleasant breezes. It serves fine pork sate and other local faves in an appealing wooden dining room.
8Information
BNI BankBANK
( GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Pierre Tendean; h8am-3pm Mon-Fri, to 12.30pm Sat)
In the centre; has an ATM and exchanges dollars. There are several more ATMs around town.
Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION
(www.florestourism.com; Jl Ahmad Yani; h8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Sat)
Small but highly useful; good for Ngada info. Various trekking and travel agencies have shops nearby.
8Getting There & Away
There are buses and bemos to various destinations. Buses don't necessarily leave on time, only when the bus is almost full. Kijangs, or travel cars, also leave throughout the day from the bemo terminal (Jl Basoeki Rahmat). Rates are about 20% more than bus fares. Bus services include the following:
AEnde 60,000Rp, several times daily
ALabuanbajo 120,000Rp, several times daily
ARuteng 60,000Rp, frequent services from 8am to 11am
8Getting Around
Bemos (3000Rp) cruise town, but it is easy to walk almost everywhere except to the bus terminals.
Treks (trucks) serve remote routes, most leaving traditional villages in the morning and returning in the afternoon.
Motorbikes cost 60,000Rp to 80,000Rp a day. A private vehicle (with driver) is 700,000Rp. Most hotels can arrange rental.
The airport is 25km from Bajawa and about 6km outside Soa.
Around Bajawa
Bajawa’s big draw is the chance to explore traditional villages in the gorgeous countryside. Their fascinating architecture features carved poles supporting a conical thatched roof. It is certainly possible to visit the area alone, but you’ll learn a lot more about the culture and customs (such as the caste system) with a guide. Some organise meals in their home villages, others will suggest treks to seldom-visited villages accessible only by trail.
Guides linger around hotels and can arrange day trips from 600,000Rp per person with transport, village entry fees and lunch. A classic one-day itinerary would start in Bajawa and include Bena, Luba, Tolo Lela and Air Panas Malange hot springs.
WORTH A TRIP
HOT SPRINGS
In this cool, lush and palpably volcanic region, it's no surprise that the Bajawa area has a few hot springs on offer. The most accessible is Air Panas Soa (per person 5000Rp; h6.30am-6pm), situated just east of town on the rough road to Riung. There are two clean and fresh pools here; one is a scintillating 45°C, and the other a more pedestrian 35–40°C. It has modern buildings and gets busy with locals on weekends.
The most natural springs are found 6km from Bena at Air Panas Malange. At the base of one of the many volcanoes, two streams – one hot, one cold – mix together in one temperate pool. Soak amid the scents of coconut, hazelnut, vanilla and clove.
Bena
Resting on Inerie's flank, Bena is one of the most traditional Ngada villages. It's home to nine clans, and its fabulous stone monuments are the region’s best. Houses with high thatched roofs line up in two rows on a ridge, the space between them filled with fine ngadhu, bhaga (smeared with sacrificial blood) and megalithic tomblike structures. Most houses have male or female figurines on their roofs, while doorways are decorated with buffalo horns and jawbones – a sign of the family’s prosperity.
Bena is the most visited Ngada village, and weavings and souvenir stalls line the front of houses. Although the village is crowded
when tour groups arrive during high season, and all villagers are now officially Catholic and attend a local missionary school, traditional beliefs and customs endure. Sacrifices are held three times each year, and village elders still talk about a rigidly enforced caste system that prevented ‘mixed’ relationships, with those defying the adat facing possible death.
Visitors are asked to make a donation of 10,000Rp to 20,000Rp. You can spend the night for 125,000Rp per person, which includes meals of boiled cassava and banana.
8Getting There & Away
Bena is reached by a good 12km road from Langa, a traditional town 7km from Bajawa. An ojek ride here costs about 70,000Rp.
Luba
Tucked into the jungle like a beautiful secret, the traditional village of Luba is about 2km from Bena and much more intimate. Just four very welcoming clans live here in a baker's dozen homes. You'll see four ngadhu and bhaga in the common courtyard, and within the local population are a few artists whose houses are decorated with depictions of horses, buffalo and snakes, which translate as symbols of power, status and protection. Photography is welcomed by most; leave a donation of 10,000Rp to 20,000Rp.
8Getting There & Away