Lonely Planet Indonesia

by Lonely Planet

  During August 1999, in a UN-sponsored referendum, the people of East Timor voted in favour of independence. Violence erupted when pro-Jakarta militias, backed by the Indonesian military, destroyed buildings and infrastructure across the East, leaving up to 1400 civilians dead before peacekeepers intervened. Back in West Timor, the militias were responsible for the lynching of three UN workers in Atambua in 2000, making West Timor an international pariah.

  After several turbulent years, relations normalised by 2006 and road and transport links were restored.

  DON'T MISS

  BEST OF WEST TIMOR

  None One of many traditional villages; they only stopped hunting heads here in 1945.

  Boti An ancient village doing its best to make sure time forgets it.

  Temkessi A magical, mystical outpost of centuries-old culture atop a limestone promontory.

  Oinlasi Ikat in colours and patterns you didn't think possible is sold by the women who made it at this huge weekly market.

  Kupang

  %0380 / Pop 350,000

  Kupang is the capital of Nusa Tenggara Timur (NTT) and despite the city’s scruffy waterfront, its sprawling gnarl of traffic, and the complete lack of endearing cultural or architectural elements, this is a place you can get used to. Chalk it up to Kupang’s sheer chaotic energy. It's a university town, after all, and there's the intangible buzz of a place on the move.

  Kupang's a regional transport hub, so you will do time here. Just don’t be surprised if between trips to the interior, Alor or Rote, you discover that you actually dig it. England’s Captain Bligh had a similar epiphany when he spent 47 days here after that emasculating mutiny on the Bounty incident in 1789.

  Kupang sprawls and you’ll need to take bemos or ojeks to get around. You will likely land in one of two main areas. The waterfront district – which stretches along Jl Sumba, Jl Sumatera, Jl Garuda and Jl Siliwangi, and rambles inland with Jl Ahmad Yani – has numerous lodging options, plenty of restaurants and the night market. Jl Mohammad Hatta and Jl Sudirman to the south, is the new commercial centre with chain hotels and malls.

  Kupang

  4Sleeping

  1Hotel MalianaC1

  2Lavalon Bar & HostelC1

  5Eating

  Lavalon Bar & HostelC1

  3Pasar MalamC1

  4Rumah Makan PalembangD3

  5Rumah Makan Wahyu Putra SoloC2

  6Drinking & Nightlife

  6999 Restaurant & BarA2

  1Sights

  The very heart of old Kupang centres on the old port area and its surrounding cacophonous market. Look closely and you'll see a few traces of Dutch colonial times, when Kupang was considered a genteel tropical idyll.

  Museum Nusa Tenggara TimurMUSEUM

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0380-832471; Jl Frans Seda; admission by donation; h8am-3pm Mon-Sat)

  Renovations are rapidly improving the regional museum. It has skulls, seashells, stone tools, swords, gourds and antique looms from across the province, plus an entire blue whale skeleton. Displays (some in English), cover historical moments and cultural topics such as which plants provide dyes for traditional fabrics.

  EXPLORING WEST TIMOR

  Kupang is a gateway to West Timor’s fascinating and welcoming traditional villages. Bahasa Indonesia – let alone English – is often not spoken. In addition, the traditional villages can be a minefield – albeit a friendly minefield – of cultural dos and don'ts. A local guide is essential.

  Oney MedaGUIDE

  (%0813 3940 4204; per day from 300,000Rp)

  An English-speaking guide with nearly two decades of experience organising anthropological tours and treks throughout West Timor and Alor. Meda's rates depend on the complexity of the itinerary.

  Eben OematanGUIDE

  (%0852 3795 8136; per day from 300,000Rp)

  Has over 25 years of experience. Oematan is from Kapan, which means he speaks several dialects spoken in the villages you'll want to visit. Based in Soe, he picks up guests in Kupang.

  Edwin LerrickGUIDE

  (%0812 377 0533, 0380-832256; lavalonbar@gmail.com; per day from 300,000Rp)

  The irrepressible owner of Kupang's Lavalon Bar & Hostel is also a sensational guide, with deep regional knowledge and connections throughout West Timor, especially in the traditional villages.

  4Sleeping

  Near the airport and the new commercial district there are several large and bland chain hotels such as the Neo Aston and the Amaris. Any of the properties on the waterfront will be much more pleasant, and will enjoy ocean breezes and views.

  oLavalon Bar & HostelHOSTEL$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0380-832256, 0812 377 0533; www.lavalontouristinfo.com; Jl Sumatera 44; dm 50,000Rp, r 150,000-250,000Rp; aW)

  The best value in town with clean rooms and Western-style bathrooms. Excellent meals and cold beer are served in the open-air common area, which has fine views. It's run by the much-loved living NTT encyclopedia and former Indonesian film star Edwin Lerrick. Expansion plans will bring more private rooms to this prime waterfront location.

  Hotel MalianaGUESTHOUSE$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0380-821879; Jl Sumatera 35; r with fan/air-con 175,000/250,000Rp; aW)

  These 14 basic yet comfy motel rooms are a popular budget choice. Rooms are clean and have ocean glimpses from the front porch, which dangles with vines. Breakfast is included.

  Evergreen HomestayGUESTHOUSE$$

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0380-805 0015; Jl Sapta Marga 1/10; r 175,000-300,000Rp; aW)

  Confusingly located off Jl Mohammad Hatta in a residential neighbourhood, this compound is actually quite central. The 13 rooms are basic, large and clean. All have air-con, some have hot water.

  oSwiss Belinn Kristal KupangHOTEL$$

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0380-843 0300; www.swiss-belhotel.com; Jl Timor Raya 59; r from 670,000Rp; aWs)

  Recently renovated and well-managed, this hotel is the most appealing in town. The beachfront location and resort feel makes this the preferred hotel of the transiting Alor and Rote set. Rooms are spacious and carpeted, and equipped with a minibar, bathtub and satellite TV. Ask for one with a sea view. The pool area is lovely. It's 2km east of the centre.

  Hotel La HasiendaHOTEL$$

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0380-800 4333; hotellahasienda.com; Jl Adi Sucipto; s/d from 325,000/380,000Rp; aW)

  Rather improbably, this three-storey family-run hotel has a faux Mexican motif. Although they get points for trying, if not succeeding, where they really score is in their attention to detail and hospitality. The 22 rooms are spotless and bright. It's near the airport and there is shuttle service as well as a restaurant with a diverse menu.

  5Eating & Drinking

  As you'd expect, seafood is big in Kupang. Another local speciality is succulent sei babi (smoked pork); it's used as the base for various sauces, and is served with noodles.

  oPasar MalamMARKET$

  (Night Market; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Garuda; mains from 12,000Rp; h6-11pm)

  Kupang was never considered a good eating town until this wonderful, lamp-lit market launched and turned a lane off Jl Garuda over to street-side grill and wok chefs, who expertly prepare inexpensive dishes. The seafood selection is vast, the grilling superb.

  Depot Bambu KuningINDONESIAN$

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0380-832302; Jl Soekarno 19; h10am-10pm)

  The place in Kupang for sei babi. You have your choice of chopped up meat or ribs. Either way the sides are rice and rich pork soup with red beans. This simple shopfront gets jammed with happy locals at lunch, so try other times.

  Rumah Makan PalembangCHINESE$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0821 4796 6011; Jl Cak Doko; dishes 20,000-90,000Rp; h10am-2.30pm & 6-11pm)

  This is first-rate Chinese Indonesian food. Get the ikan bakar rica rica (grilled fish with chilli sauce); its sauce is a sweet, smoky wonder. The squid and shrimp are fresh daily, the veggies are perfectly cooked, and do not skimp on that beautiful cucumber sambal. If you like a spicy pickle, you'll be thrilled.
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  Rumah Makan Wahyu Putra SoloINDONESIAN$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0380-821552; Jl Gunung Mutis 31; meals 10,000-25,000Rp; h7am-9pm; v)

  Kupang’s best pick-and-mix Padang-style warung offers beef, chicken, fish, potatoes and greens, deep- and stir-fried, stewed in coconut sauce, and chilli-rubbed and roasted. Vegetarians will find something tasty here.

  Lavalon Bar & HostelBURGERS$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0812 377 0533; www.lavalontouristinfo.com; Jl Sumatera 44; mains from 30,000Rp; h7am-late; W)

  The heart of the Lavalon empire occupies the same sweet spot as the hostel. Edwin Lerrick and his chatty crew dish up excellent burgers and chips plus Indo standards through the day and evening. The ocean laps at the shore 10m away, and you can lounge back in a hammock with a cold Bintang in hand.

  IndigoINTERNATIONAL$$

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0811 228 1318; Jl Suprapto 30; mains 40,000-100,000Rp; hnoon-10pm; aW)

  There's a slick industrial chic at this popular restaurant and bar, which does good pizza as well as pasta and local dishes such as the ubiquitous nasi goreng. Everything is well prepared and the beer is even colder than the chilled air-con surrounds.

  999 Restaurant & BarBAR

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0380-802 0999; 999-kupang.com; Jl Tongkol 3; h10am-late; W)

  In the shadow of an old fort, this tropical bar has an expansive thatched roof, no walls, views of the shabby beach and the ever-present sound of rolling surf. There's a pool table, a full bar including a menu of dayglo cocktails, and a decent menu too. Just east, waterfront vendors sell corn on the cob.

  7Shopping

  Sandalwood oil is something of a local speciality. You can buy oils of varying quality at the shops in the old town, off Jl Garuda. The purest oils are upwards of 300,000Rp for a small vial.

  Pasar InpresMARKET

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; off Jl Soeharto; h7am-4pm)

  The main market is the rambling Pasar Inpres in the south of the city. It's mostly fruit and vegetables, but some ikat and handicrafts can be found near the terminal. Bizarre ti'i langga (conical hats) from Rote make a fun purchase, but try fitting one in your backpack. Take bemo 1 or 2 and follow the crowd.

  Ina NdaoTEXTILES

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0380-821178; Jl Kebun Raya II; h8am-7pm Mon-Sat)

  It's worth seeking out this neighbourhood ikat shop. Textile lovers should be pleased with the wares sourced from across NTT. It offers naturally and chemically dyed varieties, and demonstrates the weaving process upon request.

  8Information

  Medical Services

  Siloam HospitalHOSPITAL

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %1-500-911; off Jl Eltari; h24hr)

  A new and upscale hospital attached to the Lippo Plaza shopping mall.

  Money

  Kupang has scores of banks and ATMs throughout town.

  Tourist Information

  LavalonTOURIST INFORMATION

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0812 377 0533, 0380-832256; www.lavalontouristinfo.com; Jl Sumatera 44; h8am-late; W)

  Edwin Lerrick, the proprietor, is a vital source for the latest transport information, as well as cultural attractions throughout NTT. His website is a must-read for information.

  Travel Agencies

  PT Stindo StarTRAVEL AGENCY

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0380-809 0584, 0380-809 0583; Jl Urip Sumohardjo 2; h9am-6pm)

  An efficient travel agency that sells airline tickets.

  8Getting There & Away

  Air

  Kupang is the most important hub for air travel in Nusa Tenggara. There are frequent flights to Bali and a web of services across the region.

  Ferry

  Tenau Harbour, 7km west of the centre, is where the fast ferry to Rote and Pelni ships dock. Bolok Harbour, where you get regular ferries to Kalabahi, Larantuka, Rote and Waingapu, is 11km west of the centre.

  Pelni ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0380-824357; Jl Pahlawan 3; h8.30am-3pm Mon-Sat, 9-11am Sun) serves Kupang on a twice-monthly loop that includes Larantuka and Maumere. Its office is near the waterfront.

  TRANSPORT FROM KUPANG

  AIR

  Destination Company Duration (hr) Frequency

  Bajawa Transnusa 1¼ daily

  Denpasar Citilink, Garuda, Lion Air 2 several daily

  Jakarta Citilink, Lion Air 4 daily

  Kalabahi Transnusa, Wings Air 1 daily

  Labuanbajo Garuda 1½ 2 weekly

  Maumere Wings Air 1 daily

  Tambolaka Garuda 1½ daily

  Waingapu Nam 1 daily

  BUS

  Destination Price (Rp) Duration (hr) Frequency

  Kefamenanu 50,000 5½ several times daily

  Niki Niki 35,000 3½ hourly, 5am-6pm

  Soe 30,000 3 hourly, 5am-6pm

  BOAT

  Destination Type Price (Rp) Duration (hr) Frequency

  Kalabahi ferry 116,000-170,000 17 twice weekly

  Larantuka ferry 105,000-154,000 15 twice weekly

  Rote ferry 54,000-65,000 5 daily

  Rote Bahari Express 160,000-190,000 2 9am daily

  Waingapu ferry 162,000-254,000 13 twice weekly

  8Getting Around

  To/From the Airport

  Kupang’s El Tari Airport is 15km east of the town centre.

  Taxis from the airport to town cost a fixed 60,000Rp. For public transport, turn left out of the terminal and walk 1km to the junction with the main highway, from where bemos to town cost 3000Rp.

  Going to the airport, take the Penfui bemo to the junction and walk.

  Bemo

  A ride in one of Kupang’s unique bass-thumping hip-hop bemos (2000Rp) is one of the city’s essential experiences (Kupang is too spread out to walk). Windscreens are festooned with either girlie silhouettes, Jesus of Nazareth, his mum, or English football stars. The low-rider paint job is of the Fast & Furious technicolour variety, while banks of subwoofers will have your ass involuntarily shaking to the drivers’ C-list hip-hop soundtrack.

  Bemos stop running by 9pm. The bemo hub is the Kota Kupang terminal. Useful bemo routes:

  1 & 2 Kuanino–Oepura; passing many popular hotels.

  5 Oebobo–Airnona–Bakunase; passing the main post office.

  6 Goes to the Flobamora shopping mall and the post office.

  10 Kelapa Lima–Walikota; from Kota Kupang terminal to the tourist office, Oebobo bus terminal and Museum Nusa Tenggara Timur.

  Several bemos use names instead of numbers. Tenau and Belok Harbour bemos run to the docks. The Penfui bemo links to the airport.

  Car & Motorcycle

  It’s possible to rent a car with a driver from 400,000Rp to 750,000Rp per day, depending upon the destination. Motorcycles cost around 60,000Rp per day. You can arrange one at your hotel or Lavalon.

  TIMOR-LESTE VISA RUN

  Hitting Dili in Timor-Leste is one way to renew your Indonesian visa from Nusa Tenggara. If you decide to go, be aware that Timor-Leste is considerably more expensive than Indonesia, and the return trip normally takes more than a week by the time you get to Dili, wait for your Indonesian visa and return to West Timor.

  Apply for your visa to Timor-Leste at the Timor-Leste Consulate in Kupang with a valid passport, a photocopy and passport photos. It costs US$30 and takes one to three working days to process.

  In Dili head to the Indonesia Consulate for your new tourist visa (US$50). Travellers have been issued with 60-day visas here upon request. Visas take four working days to issue and you'll need to visit the office three times (the first time just to make an appointment for the process).

  Direct minibuses (10 to 11 hours) to Dili are operated by Timor Tour & Travel (%0380-881543; one-way 230,000Rp) and Paradise (%0380-830414, 0813 3944 7183; one-way 230,000Rp). Call for a hotel pickup. Departures can be as early as 5am, so brace yourself.

  Around Kupang

  Oenesu

  Hidden in this sleepy farming village just off the Kupang–Tablolong road is an impressive three-stage, turquoise-tinted waterfall (admission 2000Rp). There’s a nice swimmin
g hole beneath the last cascade. Locals love it, which explains the profound rubbish issue. The turn-off is 13km from Kupang near Tapa village, serviced by regular bemos from Tabun. From the main road it’s a 2.5km walk to the falls. Take the road to Sumlili; after the Immanuel church turn and walk 800m along a rough road.

  Oebelo & Oesao

  Oebelo, a small salt-mining town 22km from Kupang on the Soe road, is notable for a terrific Rotenese musical-instrument workshop, Sasandu (%0852 3948 7808; Jl Timor Raya; h9am-6pm), run by Pak Pah and his family. Traditional 20-stringed harps, aka sasando, are made and played in all sizes. Pak may treat you to a haunting instrumental number, or a cover of Country Road.

  Oesao is another 6km down the road and is a mandatory stop for one marvellous reason: Inzana (Jl Timor Raya; bag of treats 10,000Rp; h4am-10pm), a roadside sweet shop located just east of the main market that serves a variety of traditional Timorese cakes. Our favourites are the pancakes stuffed with coconut cream, and the sublime (and still warm) flying saucer–shaped discs of fried dough stuffed with candied rice. Your driver will know the place. Stock up for the road. Ignore the lesser competition nearby.