Lonely Planet Indonesia
Page 77
Death Ceremonies
On the day of a burial, buffalo or pigs are sacrificed while ornaments and a sirih (betel nut) bag are buried with the body. The living must bury their dead as richly as possible to avoid being reprimanded by the marapu mameti and to ensure the dead can enter the invisible world.
Funerals may be delayed for up to 10 years (the body of the deceased is sometimes stored in the loft of the family’s house or given a temporary burial) until enough wealth has been accumulated for a full ceremonial funeral, and a massive stone- or concrete-slab tomb.
When the Indonesian republic was founded, the government introduced a slaughter tax in an attempt to stop the liquidation of valuable livestock. This reduced the number of animals killed and stemmed hunger among the poor, but it didn’t alter basic attitudes. The Sumbanese believe you can, and should, take the animal with you.
Visiting Villages
Many Sumbanese villagers are now accustomed to tourists. If you’re interested in their weavings or other artefacts, the villagers put you down as a potential trader. If all you want to do is chat and look around, and simply turn up with a camera and start putting it in their faces, they’re likely to be confused or offended. On the other hand, though you may assume that you're the one on an anthropological tour, the local people – especially the children – will likely be just as interested in you as you are in them. Often the tables turn, and you just might feel under the microscope.
On Sumba, offering pinang (betel nut) is the traditional way of greeting guests or hosts. You can buy it at most markets in Sumba, and it's a terrific and respectful ice breaker. Offer your gifts to the kepala desa (village head) and to other village elders.
Many villages keep a visitors’ book, which villagers will produce for you to sign, and you should donate about 20,000Rp per person. Hiring a guide to the isolated villages is a big help and offers some protection from getting into the wrong situation. No matter where you go, taking the time to chat with the villagers helps them see you more as a guest than a customer or visiting alien.
8Getting There & Away
Sumba's links to greater Indonesia are improving. Airports in Tambolaka and Waingapu have daily flights to Bali and Kupang in West Timor. Ferries run to Flores and Kupang.
SUMBA'S BEST WEBSITE
A true labour of love by Matthias Jungk, a German, www.sumba-information.com is a vast compendium for all things Sumba. You can buy a 64-page pdf version of the website for €5; in addition Jungk has created a superbly detailed and accurate map of Sumba which you can use online or buy. Best of all, this invaluable resource is continually updated.
Waingapu
Pop 55,000
Waingapu is a leafy, laid-back town that is plenty walkable and makes a decent base from which to explore the surrounding villages. It became an administrative centre after the Dutch military ‘pacified’ the island in 1906 and has long been Sumba’s main trading post for textiles, prized Sumbanese horses, dyewoods and lumber. The town has a groovy harbourfront dining scene, and a few ikat shops and workshops. Traders with bundles of textiles and carvings hang around hotels or walk the streets touting for rupiah.
4Sleeping
Breakfast and free airport transfer (if you call in advance) are usually included in accommodation rates.
oTanto HotelGUESTHOUSE$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0387-61048, 0387-62500; Jl Prof Dr WZ Yohanes; r 200,000-450,000Rp; aW)
The newest hotel in town is also the best. Bright, fresh rooms and good service set the Tanto apart from most of its competition. The decor is primarily white, with natural wood and vivid-red accents. Many rooms have fridges; the breakfast is good.
Hotel MerlinHOTEL$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0387-61300; Jl Panjaitan 25; r 110,000-220,000Rp, mains 15,000-35,000Rp; aW)
This long-standing travellers’ favourite has a decent assortment of rooms over three floors, with Flores views from the rooftop restaurant (mains 15,000Rp to 35,000Rp). Rooms are large, with wood furnishings, but they vary in quality. Ask to see a few before deciding. Guides lurk out front.
Hotel KaliudaHOTEL$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0387-61264; Jl Lalamentik 3; r 150,000-250,000Rp)
This reasonably clean, quiet motel has six basic rooms with fans offering decent value (an expansion is planned). It also has a small antique collection and motorbikes for rent.
5Eating
Good restaurants are thin on the ground in Waingapu, but you can do all right for a night or two.
oPasar MalamINDONESIAN$
(Night Market; GOOGLE MAP ; off Jl Yos Sudarso; mains from 12,000Rp; h6-11pm)
The best dinner option is the night market at the old wharf, where a couple of permanent warungs and half a dozen gas-lit carts set up to grill, fry and sauté seafood on the cheap. It’s especially nice when the moon glows. You can also get various sate as well as postdinner treats such as pisang goreng.
Warung Enjoy AjaSEAFOOD$
( GOOGLE MAP ; Pelabuhan; mains 15,000-45,000Rp; h6-11pm)
Part of the harbour night market, this is the last warung before the pier on the east side. The fish and squid are expertly grilled and served with three types of sambal and a sea-salt garnish.
Mr CafeINDONESIAN$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0387-61605; Jl Umbu Tipuk Marisi 1; mains 15,000-30,000Rp; h8am-10pm)
The interior is simple, with comfy plastic chairs and wood tables, which is fitting as the fare is also simple. But the meatballs, fried chicken and various rice dishes are well-prepared and there's a big selection. You can bring in beer from the small shop around the corner (they have an opener).
If you're wondering about the lives of expat NGO workers on Sumba, just drop by here.
Yenny’s BakeryBAKERY$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0387-62449; Komplek Ruko; treats 3000-12,000Rp; h8am-6pm)
Got a sweet tooth? Peruse the shelves of doughnuts, cakes, pastries and breads at this friendly bakery. Staff will pack a box for the road.
7Shopping
Waingapu has a few ‘art shops’ selling Sumbanese ikat and artefacts. Vendors also descend on hotels – some will squat patiently all day. Prices are fair, and there’s far more choice here than in the countryside.
oAma TukangTEXTILES
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0852 3747 4140; Jl Hawan Waruk 53; h9am-6pm)
Do not miss this ikat workshop. You’ll see the whole process from motif design to colouring to weaving, and the collection – featuring marapu, village scenes, horsemen and buffalo – is arguably the best in all of Indonesia. To get there, head south of the bridge on the southern side of Waingapu and turn left onto Jl Hawan Waruk.
8Information
There are several BNI ATMs around town.
8Getting There & Away
TX Waingapu (%0387-61534; www.txtravel.com; Jl Beringin 12; h9am-6pm) books airline tickets.
Pelni ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0387-61665; www.pelni.co.id; Jl Hasanuddin; h9am-4pm) ships leave from the newer Darmaga dock to the west of town but the ticket office is at the old port. Ferry schedules are subject to change: check the ASDP (%0214-288 2233) hotline or see the schedules at the port.
The terminal for eastbound buses is in the southern part of town, close to the market. The West Sumba terminal (aka Terminal Kota) is about 5km west of town.
TRANSPORT FROM WAINGAPU
AIR
Destination Company Duration (hr) Frequency
Denpasar Wings Air 2 daily
Kupang Nam, Wings Air 1 daily
BOAT
Destination Company Price (Rp) Duration (hr) Frequency
Aimere (Flores) ASDP 125,000 10 weekly
Ende (Flores) ASDP 115,000 13 weekly
Kupang ASDP 162,000-254,000 13 2 weekly
BUS
Destination Type Price (Rp) Duration (hr) Frequency
Waikabubak bus 50,000 5 several times daily
8Getting Around
Sumba has some of the highest car-hire rates in Nusa Tenggara. Even after bargaining, 700,000Rp is a
good price per day, including driver and petrol. The Sandle Wood and Merlin hotels can help sort you out. Virtually any hotel worker can arrange a motorbike (from 80,000Rp per day).
To/From the Airport
The airport is 6km south on the Melolo road. A taxi into town costs a standard 60,000Rp, but most hotels offer a free pickup and drop-off service for guests. It’s 3000Rp for a bemo ride to any destination around town, and 5000Rp to the western bus terminal.
Around Waingapu
Londolima, a sliver of sand about 7km northwest of Waingapu, is a favourite local swimming spot on weekends and holidays. The bay is turquoise and glassy; the beach isn’t so magical. Bemos from Waingapu's Terminal Kota pass by regularly. Continue along this road and you’ll reach an even better beach, Puru Kambera, where you can stay the night at the Villa Cemara (%0812 2465 4448, 0812 384 2178; Puru Kambera; r from 400,000Rp; aW) resort in lavishly decorated wood cottages on the beach, with pebbled baths. It's close to the traditional Prai Liang and Prai Natang villages, which are just 15 minutes from the resort. Three daily buses (12,000Rp) go to/from Waingapu.
Three kilometres east of Waingapu, Prailiu is an ikat-weaving centre that’s worth a quick look. Alongside traditional thatched houses are some concrete tombs bearing carvings of crocodiles and turtles, as well as empty graves that will be filled when the deceased’s family can afford the funeral. Visitors are asked for a cash donation. Bemos to Prailiu run from Waingapu’s main bus and bemo terminal. Continuing east, it’s a further 7km to Kawangu, which has two massive stone-slab tombs in the pasture, 300m off the road to Melolo. There are good beaches and mangroves close by.
East Sumba
Southeast of Waingapu, nestled in dry undulating savannah interspersed with cashew orchards, are several traditional villages, some with striking ancestral tombs. This area produces some of Sumba’s best ikat. Most villages are quite used to tourists – you’ll have to pay to visit (give at least 20,000Rp), and be prepared for plenty of attention from handicraft vendors.
Praiyawang & Rende
Nestled in a beautiful shallow valley between grassy hills, Praiyawang is a traditional compound of Sumbanese houses and is the ceremonial focus of the more modern village of Rende, located 7km south of Melolo. It has an imposing line-up of nine big stone-slab tombs. The largest is that of a former chief. Shaped like a buffalo, it consists of four stone pillars 2m high, supporting a monstrous slab about 5m long, 2.5m wide and 1m thick. Two stone tablets stand atop the main slab, carved with figures. A massive Sumbanese house with concrete pillars faces the tombs, along with a number of older rumah adat (traditional houses).
Several buses go from Waingapu to Rende (20,000Rp), starting at about 7am. The last bus back to Waingapu leaves at 3pm.
Kallala
Kallala, 126km from Waingapu and 2km down a dirt road from the nearby village of Baing, has emerged as the surf capital of East Sumba. It’s an absolutely stunning stretch of white-sand beach that arcs toward the coastal mountains, which tumble down to form East Sumba’s southernmost point. Waves break 500m offshore.
Only the most hard core will tolerate the area's one place to stay: the once-renowned Mr David’s Surf Camp (Kalala Beach; %0813 5397 6282; www.kalalabeach.com; all-inclusive bungalows from 400,000Rp). Mr David passed on in 2012 and this eponymous place seems likely to follow. Conditions are crude at best; however the location right on the beach is excellent and some will cheerfully overlook the many downsides. One saving grace is Yohanna, who is an excellent cook.
Several buses a day go to Baing (40,000Rp, four hours) from Waingapu. The road is sealed all the way but is bumpy past Melolo. A dirt track with many branches runs from Baing to Kallala. Buses will drop you off at the beach if you ask.
South-Central Sumba
This part of the island is gorgeous, but difficult to access. Although there are daily buses from Waingapu to Tarimbang and trucks to Praingkareha, getting around may require a 4WD or motorcycle and, often, some hiking.
If you’re looking for more deserted waves, check out Tarimbang, a life-altering crescent of white sand framed by a massive limestone bluff 88km southwest of Waingapu. The beach thumps with terrific surf, there’s some nearby snorkelling, and rustic accommodation is available at the 18-bed Marthen’s Homestay (%0852 8116 5137; r from 150,000Rp) and the kepala desa’s six-room place. Daily trucks to Tarimbang leave Waingapu in the morning (40,000Rp, five hours).
Waikabubak
%0387 / Pop 22,000
A country market town, home to both thatched clan houses and rows of concrete shops, administrative buildings and tin-roof homes sprouting satellite dishes, Waikabubak makes Waingapu feel like a metropolis. It’s a welcoming place, surrounded by thick stands of mahogany, and at about 600m above sea level, it’s a little cooler than the east and a good base for exploring the traditional villages of West Sumba. The big market is on Saturday.
Waikabubak
1Sights
1Kampung Prai KlembungB2
2Kampung TambelarC2
3Kampung TarungA2
4Kampung WaitabarA2
4Sleeping
5Hotel ArthaD2
6Hotel ManandangB3
5Eating
7Rumah Makan FannyA1
8Rumah Makan GloriaA1
7Shopping
9A Hamid Algadi Art ShopA3
1Sights
Within the town are some friendly and quite traditional kampung (villages) with stone-slab tombs and thatched houses. You don’t need a guide here. Locals will love to show off their spacious homes lashed with old ironwood columns and beams. Charming children will mug for the camera. Old folks will offer betel nuts. Bring gifts (cigarettes), offer a donation (10,000Rp to 20,000Rp), or buy a handicraft or two, and the villagers will beam with gratitude and pride.
Kampung Tambelar ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ), just off Jl Sudirman, has very impressive tombs, but the most interesting kampung are on the western edge of town. It’s only a short stroll from most hotels to Prai Klembung ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) and then up the slippery slope that juts from the centre of town to Tarung ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ), Waitabar ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) and Belakilu, three villages that bleed into one.
In November Kampung Tarung, reached by a concrete path off Jl Manda Elu, is the scene of an important month-long ritual, the Wula Podhu. This is an austere period when even weeping for the dead is prohibited. Rites consist mainly of offerings to the spirits (the day before the ritual ends, hundreds of chickens are sacrificed), and people sing and dance for the entire final day. Tarung is home to five tribes, each with their own small, thatched shrine where only the local priest is allowed to pray and commune with the marapu.
Other interesting kampung occupying ridge or hilltop positions outside town include Praiijing, with traditional huts set around some cool primitive stone tombs, and surrounded by coconut palm and bamboo groves. Bondomarotto, Kampung Prairami and Kampung Primkateti are also beautifully located on adjacent hilltops. You can take a bemo to the turn-off for Praiijing (3000Rp).
TTours
Yuliana LedataraGUIDE
(%0852 3918 1410; yuli.sumba@gmail.com; Kampung Tarung, Waikabubak; per day from 450,000Rp)
A wonderful local English- and French-speaking guide who lives in Tarung – Waikabubak's hilltop traditional village – Yuliana can organise tours of traditional villages throughout West Sumba, where she sniffs out funerals and sacrifices, takes horse tours through rice fields, and can arrange village homestays too. She's one of Indonesia's very few female guides, and she's a good one.
4Sleeping
Karanu HotelGUESTHOUSE$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0387-21645; Jl Sudirman 43; r 150,000-250,000Rp)
A bright garden hotel east of the downtown swirl and within view of nearby rice fields. Rooms are clean if worn. They don’t have air-con, but it does have a fading Last Supper rug tacked to the lobby wall.
oMona Lisa CottagesBUNGALOW$$
(%0387-21364; www.monalisacottages-sumba.com; Jl Adhyaska 30; r 120,000-720
,000Rp; aiW)
You’ll find the best night’s sleep 2km northwest of town, across from the rice fields. It includes attractive, fan-cooled budget rooms, and a few higher-end units as well. The cottages all have peaked tin roofs, private patios with bamboo furnishings and fridges; some have air-con. The deluxe cottage has a king-sized bed, DVD player and bathtub.
Hotel ManandangHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0387-21197; Jl Pemuda 4; r 285,000-435,000Rp; aW)
Some 33 tidy, good-value rooms cluster around a pleasant back garden, and management works hard to keep it that way. The cheapest rooms have cold water; more money brings air-con and yet more brings hot water.
Hotel ArthaGUESTHOUSE$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0387-21112; Jl Veteran 11; r 200,000-400,000Rp; W)
Spacious rooms horseshoe the flower-filled courtyard, and though some of the 15 are a bit dark and walls can be scuffed, the tiled floors and bathrooms are super clean. VIP rooms even have fresh bathroom tiles. Good value.