Lonely Planet Indonesia

by Lonely Planet

  Quite possibly the single fanciest hotel in Papua, the Grand Allison is business slick with international-standard rooms, facilities and service that you won’t find elsewhere. A highlight is the lovely swimming pool complex. Book online for discounts.

  5Eating

  oYougwa RestaurantINDONESIAN$$

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0967-571570; Jl Raya Kemiri; mains 25,000-60,000Rp; h10am-8.30pm Mon-Sat, to 4pm Sun & holidays)

  Sentani’s most charming dining is on the Yougwa’s breezy wooden terraces over the lake, 13km east of town. Try ikan gabus (snakehead), a tasty lake fish that doesn’t fill your mouth with little bones.

  8Information

  PolresPOLICE

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0967-591110; Jl Yowanibi, Doyo Baru; h8am-2pm Mon-Sat)

  This police station 5km west of Sentani takes about an hour to issue a surat jalan for the Baliem Valley area, but, unlike Polresta in Jayapura, can’t issue one for other parts of Papua. An ojek from Sentani is 30,000Rp for a round trip.

  8Getting There & Around

  Taxis at the airport ask an unbelievable 100,000Rp to take you the few hundred metres to most hotels, and even ojeks want 25,000Rp. Outside the airport gate, ojeks are 5000Rp.

  Public taksi (2000Rp) marked ‘Trm Sentani-Hawai’ shuttle up and down Jl Raya Kemiri between the taksi terminal at the western end of town and the Hawai area in the east.

  Around Sentani

  Several interesting places around Sentani can be easily visited on day trips.

  Danau Sentani

  You get a bird’s-eye view of 96.5-sq-km Danau Sentani, snaking its way between picturesque green hills, as you fly in or out of Sentani. This beautiful lake has 19 islands and numerous fascinating Papuan fishing villages of wooden stilt houses along its shores.

  If you’ve got time between flights you can hire a taxi and driver at the airport for half a day to scoot about some of the sights. Expect to pay anywhere up to 800,000Rp. One trustworthy Sentani driver is Ali Rumaf (%0813 4454 1177).

  1Sights

  Tugu MacArthurMONUMENT

  ( GOOGLE MAP )F

  For breathtaking views of Danau Sentani, head up to the MacArthur monument on Gunung Ifar. This was where General Douglas MacArthur set up his headquarters after his US forces took Jayapura (then called Hollandia) in April 1944. Today the site is occupied by a small monument and a room with displays on the American and Japanese participation in the fighting.

  The 6km road up to the monument starts 700m east of Jl Airport in Sentani. Charter a taksi, or take an ojek (70,000Rp round trip) from the bottom of the access road. You must show your passport at a military checkpoint halfway up.

  Situs Megalitik TutariARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE

  (Tutari Megalithic Site; GOOGLE MAP )

  On the right, as you enter the village of Doyo Lama, 6km west of Sentani, you’ll see the entrance to Situs Megalitik Tutari. This mysterious hillside site comprises various arrangements of rocks and stones, and dozens of rock paintings of fish, turtles, crocodiles and lizards. They are of uncertain age but still considered sacred by the villagers. The paintings are in six different fenced areas, all reached by a 1km concrete path. The lake views are also worthwhile.

  Entry is by donation. The gate man will probably ask for an optimistic amount, but 20,000Rp should do the trick. If you find the gate closed, no one is likely to mind if you climb over and enter anyway.

  Pulau AseiISLAND

  Asei is the main centre for Sentani bark paintings. Originally done only on bark clothing for women of the chiefs’ families, bark paintings are now a Sentani art form. To reach Asei, take a taksi to Kampung Harapan, then an ojek 2km south to the lake, then a boat to the island.

  Pulau Biak

  %0981

  Biak (1898 sq km) is one of Papua’s biggest offshore islands. It’s a relaxed and friendly place with good snorkelling and diving. It was once a popular destination with foreign travellers to Papua but today has been rather eclipsed by the Raja Ampat Islands.

  Biak saw fierce fighting in WWII, with about 10,000 Japanese and nearly 500 Americans reported killed in the month-long Battle of Biak (1944).

  8Getting Around

  Public taksi and a few buses reach most places of interest around the island. You can make things easier by chartering a car or ojek, or by taking a trip with Discover Papua Adventure. Away from the south coast, most villages are little more than a handful of huts, with no accommodation or food for travellers.

  Kota Biak

  Pop 38,000

  This main town is your obvious, and only real, base. The airport is 3km east of the centre, along Jl Yani, which becomes Jl Prof M Yamin.

  Kota Biak

  4Sleeping

  1Hotel NirmalaC2

  2Padaido HotelC3

  5Eating

  3Furama RestaurantD2

  4Warung Makan BakwokahC2

  2Activities

  Though Biak is not in the same league as the Raja Ampat Islands as a scuba destination, there is still some good diving and snorkelling. In general you’ll see most fish from May to July. East of Kota Biak there are wall dives at Marau, Saba and Wadibu, which are also good snorkelling spots, as is Anggaduber. But the best diving and snorkelling is around the offshore Padaido Islands.

  The island also attracts the odd hardcore exploratory surfer between November and April.

  Biak PadivingDIVING, SNORKELLING

  (%0813 4436 6385; biakpadaiving@yahoo.co.id; 2 dives, 2 people mainland 1,500,000Rp, Padaido Islands 2,500,000-3,000,000Rp, equipment rental per full set 300,000Rp, full-day snorkelling trip per 2 people 2,500,000Rp)

  PADI divemaster Erick Farwas offers two-dive outings to all the better spots. Farwas also offers all-day snorkelling tours to the islands, as well as island stays.

  4Sleeping

  oPadaido HotelHOTEL$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0981-22144; hotpadaido@hotmail.com; Jl Monginsidi 16; s/d incl breakfast 350,000/400,000Rp; a)

  A hidden delight with just five immaculate, cheery, marine-themed rooms. They’re full of thoughtful touches such as lights you can switch on/off from bed, and all have terraces overlooking a small and pretty harbour.

  Asana Biak PapuaHOTEL$$

  (%0981-21939; www.aerowisatahotels.com; Jl Prof M Yamin 4; r incl breakfast from 600,000Rp; aWs)

  Almost opposite the airport terminal, this rambling old hotel (originally owned by KLM) received a major renovation in 2010 that has brought it bang up to date but still managed to retain some of its 1953 colonial-era ambience. The rooms are spic-and-span, with wooden floors, wood-panelled walls and terraces overlooking the gardens.

  Hotel NirmalaHOTEL$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0981-22005; Jl Selat Madura 13; full board s 350,000, d 400,000-600,000Rp; a)

  An excellent option, with amiable staff. The rooms, along a tidy courtyard that catches cool breezes, are immaculate, with good air-con, comfy beds, and spacious bathrooms with hot showers. On a Sunday morning your lie-in might be pleasantly disturbed by the truly beautiful singing from the next-door church.

  5Eating

  oWarung Makan BakwokahSEAFOOD$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; mains 40,000-60,000Rp; h6-10pm)

  If you like barbecued fish or chicken in a tasty sauce (the secret of which they didn’t want to give away) and served with green veg, rice and sambal, then this eternally popular place is for you. It’s cheap, simple and frankly brilliant.

  Afterwards pop over the road to the market to grab some fruit for a takeaway dessert.

  Furama RestaurantINDONESIAN, CHINESE$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Yani 22; mains 40,000-80,000Rp; a)

  Offers cold Guinness and Bintang as well as plenty of good quality Chinese and Indonesian dishes. It’s one of the few places in town that actually feels like a proper restauant.

  8Information

  Bank MandiriBANK

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Jl Imam Bonjol & Jl Yani; h8am-3pm Mon-Fri)

  Exchanges cash US dollars and has Visa and Plu
s ATMs.

  Discover Papua AdventureTRAVEL AGENCY

  (Biak Paradise; %0852 4494 0860, 0981-23196; www.discoverpapua.com)

  A well-established agency that can set up just about any trip you want, not only around Biak but throughout Papua and beyond. The experienced, capable manager, Benny Lesomar, speaks excellent English. Call and he’ll meet you in town.

  Police StationPOLICE

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Diponegoro 3; h8am-4pm Mon-Sat)

  Surat jalan are issued in an hour or so here. For Biak, you normally only need one if you stay on an offshore island or visit neighbouring Pulau Supiori.

  8Getting There & Away

  Air

  Tickets for Garuda ( GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Sudirman 3) and Sriwijaya Air (www.sriwijayaair.co.id; Jl Prof M Yamin) are sold at travel agencies as well as their offices. Tickets for the small planes of Susi Air (%0967-591782; www.susiair.com; airport; h6am-3pm) are sold only at the airport. Between them Garuda and Sriwijaya Air fly at least once a day to Jayapura and Jakarta. Garuda also flies daily to Makassar. Susi Air heads to Manokwari three times weekly and to Nabire daily.

  Boat

  ASDP Indonesia FerryFERRY

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0981-22577; Jl Suci 21)

  Has boats on Tuesday for Manokwari (88,000Rp) and Thursday for Nabire (130,000Rp), sailing from Mokmer, 6km east of Kota Biak.

  PelniFERRY

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0981-23255; Jl Sudirman 37)

  Every two weeks, Pelni has three liners heading east to Jayapura (economy class 173,500Rp, 18 to 27 hours) and west to Sorong (272,000Rp, 19 to 38 hours) and beyond. Some Sorong-bound sailings also call at Nabire and Manokwari.

  Taksi

  Blue taksi to Bosnik (8000Rp, 30 to 40 minutes), passing Mokmer and Taman Burung, run every few minutes; you can catch them at the ‘Lampu Merah’ (Traffic Lights) stop on Jl Bosnik Raya in the northeast of town. The main terminal for other taksi is Terminal Darfuar, about 5km northwest of downtown. On most routes, service winds down in the afternoon.

  8Getting Around

  Yellow public taksi (5000Rp) going to the right (west) outside the airport terminal head into town. Returning, take one marked ‘Ambroben’ from the corner of Jl Imam Bonjol and Jl Monginsidi or heading east along Jl Yani. A taxi from the airport to a downtown hotel is around 100,000Rp.

  Around Kota Biak

  1Sights

  Goa JepangCAVE

  (admission 50,000Rp; h7am-5pm)

  The ‘Japanese Cave’, 4km northeast of Kota Biak, was used as a base and hideout in WWII by thousands of Japanese soldiers. A tunnel from it is said to lead 3km to the coast at Parai. In 1944, an estimated 3000 Japanese died when US forces bombed a hole in the cave roof, dropped petrol drums into it and then bombarded it from above.

  From a concrete walkway, steps lead down into the spooky biggest cavern with a hole in the roof through which tree roots dangle. In and around the ticket office is a collection of Japanese and US weapons, equipment and photos.

  An ojek from town costs 15,000Rp. Otherwise take a Bosnik-bound taksi and ask to be dropped at the unsigned road that leads 700m up to the cave. After heading uphill for around 300m, when you get to the top, a Japanese gun emplacement overlooks the airport. This was the focus of all the fighting.

  Taman Burung & Taman AnggrekGARDENS

  (Jl Bosnik Raya Km12; admission 10,000Rp; h7am-6pm)

  At Ibdi, 12km east of Kota Biak on the Bosnik road, the Bird & Orchid Garden contains a sizeable collection of (caged) Papuan birds, including strikingly coloured lories, hornbills, cockatoos and three sad-looking cassowaries in cages that are far too small for such birds. Mixing it up with the birds are dozens of types of orchid.

  Bosnik & Around

  Bosnik, 18km from Kota Biak, is a laid-back village strung along the coast for 2km. Its daily morning market is busiest on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday, when Padaido islanders come in biggest numbers. Don’t get too excited about the beaches here – they’re far from the best in Indonesia and at low tide a lot of ‘reef hopping’ is required to reach the sea, but for what it’s worth the best section of beach is Pantai Segara Indah (admission 20,000Rp) at the eastern end.

  Bosnik-route taksi from Kota Biak usually go as far as Opiaref, where the coast road turns inland. You can continue on foot 6km through Opiaref to Marau, Saba and Wadibu, where a road heads 500m inland to join the Anggaduber road. The coral and fish off Pantai Marau make for good snorkelling and diving, as do the rocky islets off Saba.

  Padaido Islands

  This lovely cluster of 36 islands and islets (only 13 of them inhabited) makes for a great day trip from Kota Biak or Bosnik, and you can stay over on some islands. Virtually all have jungle-backed, white-sand beaches with crystal-clear waters, coral reefs and plenty of marine life. The best snorkelling spots include Pulau Wundi, which has good coral and many fish near the surface, Pulau Rurbas Kecil and Pulau Meoswarek. Top diving sites include the western end of Pulau Owi, with good coral and big fish; Pulau Rurbas Besar for coral, sharks, turtles and more big fish; and Pulau Wundi, with a cave, a long wall and good coral.

  You can charter a boat from Bosnik to the nearest and most-populated islands, Owi and Auki, for 400,000Rp to 600,000Rp round trip, or twice as much for Wundi.

  Biak Padiving offers diving trips, and also sightseeing and snorkelling trips, to the islands. Padiving’s Erick Farwas has a basic four-room guesthouse (%0813 4436 6385; per person with/without meals 250,000/200,000Rp) on Pulau Wundi (meals must be arranged in advance).

  The cheapest transport to the islands is from Bosnik on Tuesday, Thursday or Saturday afternoon, when islanders are returning from Bosnik market and you should be able to get a place in a boat for 30,000Rp to 50,000Rp. You can normally find accommodation for 100,000Rp per person in an island house or by asking the local church-keeper. Bring food.

  Nabire

  %0984 / Pop 52,000

  For travellers the main attraction of this relatively prosperous town is swimming with whale sharks. Whale sharks can grow over 10m long and inhabit warm seas all round the world. They feed mainly on plankton but also on small fish and for this reason they hang around fishing platforms called bagan in the southwest of Teluk Cenderawasih, 1½ hours from Nabire by boat. Close encounters with at least a few of these harmless giants are almost guaranteed any day of the year. Don’t touch or interfere with the whale sharks, and try to discourage locals from doing so as well.

  2Activities

  Merry YoweniSNORKELLING

  (%0821 9830 9115; merrypapua@yahoo.com; AA Hotel, Pantai Yamarel; per person 580,000Rp)

  Merry Yoweni offers whale-shark trips from Nabire for up to five people; the cost is slightly higher for fewer people, though it’s rare that there would be less than five people on a boat.

  4Sleeping

  Nabire’s few hotels can fill up so booking ahead is advantageous.

  AA HotelHOTEL$$

  (%0853 4468 4937, 0821 9830 9115; merrypapua@yahoo.com; Pantai Yamarel; r incl breakfast 350,000Rp; aW)

  Near a grey-sand beach 2.5km from the airport, this well-run and very popular hotel has neat, medium-sized rooms with hot showers and a restaurant. The enthusiastic owners also do whale-shark trips, and offer free airport pick-ups and drop-offs if you reserve ahead.

  8Getting There & Away

  Wings Air flies to Ambon four times each week, while Wings Air and Trigana fly daily to Jayapura and Susi Air flies daily to Biak.

  Pelni sails three times every two weeks to Jayapura (once via Biak), and three times to Manokwari, Sorong and beyond.

  Baliem Valley

  The legendary Baliem Valley is the most popular and most accessible destination in Papua’s interior. The Dani people who live here were still dependent on tools of stone, bone and wood when a natural-history expedition led by American Richard Archbold chanced upon the valley in 1938. Dani life has since changed enormously with stone axes being replaced by mobile phones and age-old belief systems with Christianity, but even so the
changes are often only skin deep and the valley and surrounding highlands remain one of the world’s last fascinatingly traditional areas. Visiting the Baliem Valley and trekking through high mountain scenery, past neat and orderly Dani villages, takes you to a world far removed from Jakarta and is an honour and an experience to be savoured. For most people it is the highlight of Papua.

  The main valley is about 60km long and 16km wide and bounded by high mountains on all sides. The only sizeable town, Wamena, sits at its centre at an altitude of 1650m. The powerful Kali Baliem (Baliem River), running through the valley, escapes via a narrow gorge at the southern end. Amid this spectacular scenery, the majority of Dani still live close to nature, tending their vegetable plots and pigs around villages composed of circular thatched huts called honai. Roads are few, and the raging mountain rivers are crossed on hanging footbridges that may be held together only by natural twine.

  Christian missionaries arrived in 1954 and a Dutch government post was established in Wamena in 1956. Since the 1960s, Indonesia has added its own brand of colonialism, bringing immigrants, government schools, police, soldiers, shops, motor vehicles and becak (bicycle-rickshaws) to the valley. Big changes have been wrought in Dani life, but their identity and culture have proved resilient. Tensions between Dani and the security forces and Indonesian immigrants periodically erupt into violence, most notably during a large-scale uprising in 1977 and again in 2000, when clashes led to a temporary exodus of non-Papuans.