Lonely Planet Indonesia
Page 95
Local Transport
The usual Indonesian forms of transport – bemo or angkot (small minibus), becak (motorcycle-rickshaw or bicycle-rickshaw) and bendi (two-person horse-drawn cart) – are available in Sumatran towns and cities. Establish a price for a becak ride before climbing aboard. For an angkot, you pay after you disembark.
Minibus
For midrange and shorter journeys, many locals and travellers prefer to use minibus and shared car services, which can be more convenient than hustling out to the bus terminal as they run intercity and door-to-door. They are not necessarily faster, but more comfortable and convenient.
Train
The only three useful train services in Sumatra run from Medan’s new airport to the centre of Medan, and from Bandarlampung to Palembang and Lahat (for the Pasemah Highlands).
North Sumatra
For many visitors, this is the sole slice of Sumatra they’ll taste. And with good reason: here you can ogle the orangutans in Bukit Lawang, veer over the volcanoes of Berastagi, laze away on the shores of Danau Toba, skim the waves off the Banyaks and Nias, and go underwater on Pulau Weh. Overall, North Sumatra is a well-trodden but extremely worthy circuit that centres on gateway metropolis Medan.
North Sumatra stretches from the Indian Ocean to the Strait of Melaka. From sea to shining sea, it is anything but homogeneous. The rolling landscape varies from sweaty plains to cool highlands, while the houses of worship switch between the metal domes of mosques to the arrow-straight steeples of Christian churches. The coastal Malays, relatives of peoples from mainland Southeast Asia, live along the Strait of Melaka and are the largest ethnic group. In the highlands around Danau Toba are the delightful Batak, and then there’s the megalithic culture of Pulau Nias.
Medan
%061 / Pop 2.2 million
Sumatra’s major metropolis, and Indonesia’s third-largest city, is seen as a necessary evil by many Sumatra-bound travellers. It’s almost inevitably a place to pass through en route to more exciting destinations and also, for some, a welcome return to the trappings of ‘civilisation’ in the shape of modern malls and restaurants. It’s a brash urban sprawl, chocked by streams of cars and becaks, but it would also be fair to say that this is a city with real Indonesian character. So get over the culture shock, give Medan a bit of time and discover an amenity-filled, modern city with more than a hint of crumbling Dutch-colonial-era charm and a couple of worthwhile museums.
Medan
1Sights
1Balai KotaC1
2Istana MaimoonE5
3Mesjid RayaF5
4Tjong A Fie MansionD3
4Sleeping
5D'Prima HotelC1
6Pondok Wisata AngelF6
7Residence HotelF6
8Swiss-Belinn MedanE3
5Eating
9Bollywood Food CentreA4
10Merdeka WalkC2
11Mie Tiong Sim Selat PanjangE3
12Sushi TeiA4
13Tip Top RestaurantC3
6Drinking & Nightlife
14Macehat CoffeeA1
15Royale Coffee ShopC3
1Sights
Ghosts of Medan’s colonial-era mercantile past are still visible along Jl Ahmad Yani from JI Palang Merah north to Lapangan Merdeka, a former parade ground surrounded by handsome colonial-era buildings, such as the Bank Indonesia, Balai Kota (Town Hall; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Balai Kota) and the main post office.
oMuseum of North SumatraMUSEUM
(Museum Negeri Privinci Sumatera Utara; GOOGLE MAP ; Jl HM Joni 51; admission 10,000Rp; h8am-4pm Tue-Thu, to 3.30pm Fri-Sun)
Housed in a striking traditional building, this museum has a well-presented collection ranging from early North Sumatran civilisations to Hindu, Buddhist and Islamic periods to Dutch colonial-era and military history. There are also sections devoted to traditional occupations such as fishing and farming. Highlights include fine stone carvings and extravagantly carved wooden dragon coffins from Nias, Batak scrolls for fending off misfortune, fine textiles and a keris (ornamental dagger) collection. It’s a short way east of the centre.
Tjong A Fie MansionHISTORIC BUILDING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Ahmad Yani 105; admission incl guide 35,000Rp; h9am-5pm)
The former house of a famous Chinese merchant who died in 1921 – formerly the wealthiest resident of Medan – mixes Victorian and Chinese style. The original hand-painted ceilings, Tjong’s huge bedroom, imported dark-wood furniture inlaid with marble and mother-of-pearl, interesting art pieces, an upstairs ballroom and Taoist temples help to make it one of the most impressive historic buildings in town.
Istana MaimoonPALACE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Katamso; admission 5000Rp; h8am-5pm)
The grand, 30-room Maimoon Palace was built by the sultan of Deli in 1888 and features Malay, Mughal and Italian influences. Only the main room, which features the lavish inauguration throne, is open to the public. Here you can check out a modest collection of ceremonial kerises and dress up in traditional Malay costume.
The back wing of the palace is occupied by members of the sultan’s family. The current sultan, Aria Mahmud Lamanjiji, was only eight years old when he was installed as the 14th Sultan of Deli in 2005, replacing his father, who died in a plane crash. He is the youngest sultan in Deli history. He currently resides in Sulawesi with his mother, and his role is purely ceremonial.
Traditional music performances take place at 10am and 2pm Monday to Friday and at 2pm on Saturday and Sunday. Note that punctuality isn’t the musicians’ strong point.
Mesjid RayaMOSQUE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Jl Mesjid Raya & SM Raja; admission by donation; h9am-5pm, except during prayer times)
The impressive Grand Mosque was commissioned by the sultan in 1906. The Moroccan-style building has a grand entrance, towering ceilings, ornate carvings, Italian marble and stained glass from China.
TTours
Tri Jaya Tour & TravelTOUR
(%061-703 2967; www.trijaya-travel.com; Hotel Deli River, Jl Raya Namorambe 129; 2-person tour US$70)
Superb historic city tours as well as multiday tours of Sumatra. You can also pick up the book Tours Through Historic Medan and Its Surroundings, written by the owner of this company.
4Sleeping
Pondok Wisata AngelGUESTHOUSE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %061-732 0702; a_zelsy_travel@yahoo.com; Jl SM Raja 70; s with fan 70,000Rp, d with fan/air-con 100,000/130,000Rp; aW)
The best backpacker option in town. Angel’s clean rooms are a swirl of vivid blues and yellows, a colour scheme that almost succeeds in offsetting the noisy traffic. It has a sociable street-front cafe.
Residence HotelHOTEL$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %061-732 1249; www.residencehotelmedan.com; Jl Tengah 1; r 70,000-150,000Rp; aW)
The lime-green Residence has enough rooms, at a range of different prices to suit both your mood and your pockets. Warning: the cheaper rooms are top-floor, windowless cells with a Dickensian prison vibe and they get hot. The pricier rooms are pleasant.
K77 Guest House GUESTHOUSE$$
(%061-736 7087, 0813 9653 8897; http://k77guesthousemedan.blogspot.com; Jl Seto 6B; r/f 250,000/300,000Rp; aW)
This backpacker haven is not in the city centre. Instead, you get a typical residential neighbourhood experience, and the hosts, Johan and Lola, go out of their way to make it a good one. Rooms are clean, snug and cool, and Johan can organise pickup and all manner of tours.
Gandhi InnHOTEL$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %061-733 2330; www.gandhiinn.com; Jl Gandhi 125 A-B ; r 338,000-598,000Rp; aW)
Decked out in sedate creams and browns, rooms at this budget (for Medan!) hotel are compact, comfortable and just a short walk from Thamsin Plaza Mall and the Pasar Ramai market. The owner and his team do their best to assist guests and recommend local culinary secrets. A place to chill out in between Sumatra adventures, do laundry and sleep.
D’Prima HotelHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %061-456 1077; www.dprimah
otelmedan.com; Jl Stasiun Kereta Api 1; r 395,000-550,000Rp; aW)
Occupying the top floors of the train station and surprisingly quiet, given the location, this slick hotel is super convenient for train departures to the airport. Rooms are somewhat anonymous, but they are ultra-clean and come with flat-screen TVs, kettles and powerful hot showers.
Swiss-Belinn MedanBUSINESS HOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %061-452 0505; www.swiss-belhotel.com; Jl Surabaya 88; r 416,000-500,000Rp; aiW)
Smart, busy hotel that almost verges on earning a boutique label. The rooms have lovely cool, dark-slate floors and bathrooms, rough white-washed walls, subdued art and deliciously comfortable beds. There’s a good range of facilities, including a popular restaurant, but some rooms are windowless and the air-con could be more powerful.
Hotel Deli RiverHOTEL$$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %061-703 2964; www.hotel-deliriver.com; Jl Raya Namorambe 129; r 750,000-950,000Rp, f 1,400,000Rp, all incl breakfast; aWs)
This colonial-style retreat, consisting of luxury cottages and rooms, shaded by fruit trees and overlooking the Deli River, provides respite from the city smog while remaining within striking distance (12km) of Medan. A wonderfully tranquil setting, but we were underwhelmed by the restaurant offerings.
Grand Swiss-Belhotel MedanBUSINESS HOTEL$$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %061-457 6999; www.swiss-belhotel.com; Jl S Parman 217; d incl breakfast from 847,000Rp; aiWs)
This huge, modern hotel follows the standard business-class formula of great facilities, an array of different restaurants and a guaranteed good night’s sleep. But it also throws in a see-through, glass-walled swimming pool and floor-to-ceiling windows that offer great city views from the upper floors.
5Eating
Medan has the most varied selection of cuisines in Sumatra, from basic Malay-style mie (noodle) and nasi (rice) joints, to top-class hotel restaurants.
Lots of simple warungs (food stalls) occupy the front courtyards of the houses in the little lanes around Mesjid Raya. Medan’s numerous malls also have decent food courts.
oMerdeka WalkSOUTHEAST ASIAN$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Lapangan Merdeka, Jl Balai Kota; dishes 10,000-35,000Rp; h5-11pm; W)
Inspired by Singapore’s alfresco dining, this collection of outdoor eateries in Lapangan Merdeka offers everything from doughnut stalls and breezy sit-down restaurants serving grilled seafood and Malaysian-style noodles. There is also what may possibly be the world’s glitziest Pizza Hut.
Bollywood Food CentreINDIAN$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %061-453 6494; Jl Muara Takus 7; dishes from 15,000Rp; hlunch & dinner; v)
Locals are adamant that this tucked-away little place, which is more like someone’s front room with a family atmosphere to match, serves the most authentic Indian cuisine in the city. There are several Malay-Indian roti shops located nearby.
Mie Tiong Sim Selat PanjangNOODLES$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Selat Panjang 7; meals around 70,000Rp; h10am-10pm)
This stall, on a street of food stalls, is locally (and justifiably) famous for its mie tiong sim (soft, handmade noodles topped with sweet, flavourful char siu pork). The chicken noodle is almost equally as good, as are the wontons. It’s behind the Hotel Swiss-Belinn.
Pasar RamaiMARKET$
(Ramani Market; GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Thamrin)
The main fruit market is a profusion of colour and smells, and has an impressive selection of local and imported tropical fruit. It’s next to Thamrin Plaza.
oSushi TeiJAPANESE$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.sushitei.co.id; Sun Plaza; meals 60,000-200,000; h11am-10pm)
At the back of Sun Plaza mall, on the ground floor, this celebrated chain serves some of Medan’s best sushi as well as an extensive array of tonkatsu, tempura, yakitori, sashimi platters and bowls of udon. We’re quite partial to the spicy maguro rolls and the stuffed crab. The virgin cocktails and imaginative drinks really hit the spot, too.
Restoran GarudaINDONESIAN$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; www.restorangaruda.com; Jl Gajah Mada 8; meals around 80,000Rp; hlunch & dinner)
A venerable Medan institution for nearly 40 years, Restoran Garuda specialises in Minang dishes (similar to Padang cuisine), so you get to sample a variety of small, fiery, flavourful platefuls during the course of a meal.
TradersINTERNATIONAL$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Kapten Pattimura 423; mains 80,000-200,000Rp; hnoon-midnight; a)
Plush Traders is very much a high-society kind of place. It’s the perfect spot to blow your dining budget on sushi, lobster dishes or Australian Angus steaks; the restaurant is particularly known for expertly grilling your chosen cuts of meat.
Tip Top RestaurantINTERNATIONAL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Ahmad Yani 92; dishes 15,000-45,000Rp; hlunch & dinner; aW)
Only the prices have changed at this colonial-era relic, which dates back to 1934 and is great for a taste of bygone imperialism. It offers an array of Indonesian, Chinese and international dishes, but it’s the old-school ice cream that’s really worth a try. Focus on the setting and atmosphere and overlook the poor service.
6Drinking
Macehat CoffeeCOFFEE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.macehatcoffee.com; Jl Karo 20; h10am-8pm)
Not only do these guys roast their own, but this cafe is a magnet for bean connoisseurs wanting to sample some of Sumatra’s best – Mandheling Arabica from the Danau Toba area. For something a bit more unusual, try the avocado coffee blend.
Royale Coffee ShopCOFFEE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Palang Merah 4; h9am-7pm)
The home of Medan’s latte art and award-winning baristas. Good for sampling blends from all over Sumatra.
TradersCOCKTAIL BAR
( GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Kapten Pattimura 423; hnoon-midnight)
With its long and glamorous list of cocktails and equally glamorous people, swanky Traders is the place to be seen in Medan.
8Information
Medan has branches of just about every bank operating in Indonesia, including Bank Indonesia ( GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Balai Kota), BCA Bank (Bank Central Asia; GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Jl Diponegoro & Jl H Zainal Arifin) and BNI Bank (Bank Negara Indonesia; GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Pemuda). Most bank headquarters sit along the junction of Jl Diponegoro and Jl H Zainal Arifin.
There is a basic tourist information booth at Medan’s new airport.
Kantor Imigrasi Kelas 1 PoloniaIMMIGRATION
( GOOGLE MAP ; %061-453 3117; 2nd fl, Jl Mangkubumi 2; h8am-4pm Mon-Fri)
For visa extensions. Technically the process takes three days, costs 350,000Rp and cannot be done until a few days before your current visa expires. Bring photocopies of your passport and Indonesian visa, as well as your onward ticket. The office you need is on the 2nd floor.
Main Post OfficePOST OFFICE
( GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Bukit Barisan; h8am-6pm)
Located in an old Dutch building on the main square.
North Sumatra Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION
( GOOGLE MAP ; %061-452 8436; Jl Ahmad Yani 107; h8am-4pm Mon-Fri)
Brochures, maps and basic information.
Rumah Sakit Columbia AsiaHOSPITAL
( GOOGLE MAP ; %061-456 6730; www.columbiaasia.com; Jl Listrik 2A; h24hr)
The best hospital in the city, with a 24-hour walk-in clinic and pharmacy, as well as English-speaking doctors and specialists.
8Getting There & Away
Medan is Sumatra’s main international arrival and departure point.
Air
Kualanamu International Airport (%061-8888 0300; www.kualanamu-airport.co.id), which opened in 2014, is 39km from the city centre and handily connected to central Medan by frequent trains and buses.
Bus
There are two major bus terminals in Medan. Purchase tickets from ticket offices outside the terminals.
The Amplas bus terminal (Jl SM Raja), which serves southern destinations, is 6.5km south of the city centre. Almost any angkot heading south on Jl SM Raja will
get you to Amplas (5000Rp).
The Pinang Baris bus terminal (Jl Gatot Subroto), 10km west of the city centre, serves Bukit Lawang, Berastagi and Banda Aceh (the latter is also served by buses from Amplas).
Singkil Raya ( GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Bintan), near the caged-bird shops, is one of the companies running daily morning and evening trips to Singkil, the departure point for boats to the Banyak Islands. Nearby you’ll also find a bus ( GOOGLE MAP ) at 7.30pm to Ketambe. Take angkot 53 from Jl SM Raja to Medan Mall.
Most lodgings and numerous travel agencies along Jl Katamso can arrange a space for you on a shared door-to-door minibus to popular destinations such as Bukit Lawang, Berastagi and Danau Toba; it’s pricier than a bus but faster and more comfortable.
Train
Rail services are very limited. The only one that’s useful to travellers is the airport train.
TRANSPORT FROM MEDAN
AIR
Destination Airline Frequency
Banda Aceh Garuda, Lion Air 4 daily
Bandung Citilink, Lion Air 4 daily
Bangkok Indonesia AirAsia daily
Denpasar Garuda daily
Gunung Sitoli Garuda, Wings Air 8 daily
Jakarta Batik Air, Citilink, Garuda, Indonesia AirAsia, Lion Air, Sriwijaya Air 45 daily