Lonely Planet Indonesia

by Lonely Planet

  With Pitstops breaking right in front of the four breezy Mentawai-style cottages, this intimate surf retreat has an enviable location on Masokut Island. It attracts a largely Aussie crowd with its combination of comfort (king-sized beds, large open bathrooms, delicious Indonesian food) and immediate proximity to several good waves. Manager Brent can also advise on trekking on Siberut.

  Shadow Mentawai Surf CampSURF CAMP$$

  (www.theshadowmentawai.com; surfer/nonsurfer per day US$120/100; W)

  On tiny, lush Pulau Buasak on the outskirts of Playground, Shadow is run by friendly local surfer brothers Ade and Dodi and their crew. Solo surfers lodge in cosy two-person bunk rooms with air-con, while couples are more likely to end up in the thatched cottage with a simple outdoor Indonesian bathroom.

  oKandui VillasRESORT$$$

  (%0751-841946, 0812 664 0941; www.kanduivillas.com; Pulau Karangmajat; surfer/nonsurfer per night US$335/250; aWs)

  Located on Pulau Karangmajat, American-owned Kandui Villas is a short paddle from Kandui Left, not far from the legendary Rifles and with unlimited speedboat transfers to the waves, making this the pro surfer digs of choice. Guests are lodged in 12 luxurious, breezy umas (Mentawai-style cottages) with king-sized beds. Nonsurfing partners and children can lounge by the infinity pool.

  Wavepark ResortRESORT$$$

  (%0812 663 5551; www.wavepark.com; 10-night package incl meals US$3600; aiW)

  Wavepark has a front-row view of Hideaways from its lookout tower and large, comfortable, breezy bungalows (with the best bathrooms in the Mentawais) on a private island. Nonsurfing activities (sea kayaking, snorkelling) make it a favourite with returning surfing/nonsurfing couples, and the excellent bar-restaurant screens surfing photos of the day.

  Pitstop Hill ResortRESORT$$$

  (www.pitstophill.com; Pulau Masokut; 10-day package incl meals US$3500; aW)

  High on a hill overlooking Pitstops and around the corner from Ebay, this Aussie-run resort has six rooms in a main house, and a luxury villa for couples and families. It’s wildly popular with return visitors, so book about five months ahead of time.

  Pulau Sipora/Tua Pejat

  oAloita Resort & SpaRESORT$$

  (%0813 6252 7350, 0821 7015 3742; www.aloitaresort.com; surfer/nonsurfer per day from US$175/125; aW)S

  Eight bungalows in a garden setting occupy a private beach within easy reach of Telescopes and Iceland and there’s a beginner’s surf break a short walk away. Italian-run Aloita contributes to the local community (by employing local staff and funding a school) and offers diving and paddle boarding. The spa and yoga terrace make it a good option for surfers planning on bringing partners or family.

  Awera IslandGUESTHOUSE$$

  (www.aweraisland.com; Awera Island; per person US$120; W)

  This small guesthouse has a beach-house vibe and is just a short hop from Iceland, Suicides and other decent breaks. Accommodation is geared towards solo surfers, with airy two-bed bunk rooms, large screen projector for movie-watching, and surfing guide Pete on hand to stitch up any injuries. The beach is perfect for downtime snorkelling and jungle hikes are an option.

  Uma Awera LodgeSURF CAMP$$

  (%0821 7086 6999; desti.sababalat@gmail.com; per person US$95)

  On Awera Island, within easy range of Iceland, Suicides and Telescopes, this friendly place is run by Desti and her brother. Five traditional thatched Mentawai cottages sit amid well-kept grounds, each with twin beds, fans, mosquito nets and bucket showers. Head to the dining area for impromptu music sessions and a mix of Indo and international dishes.

  Oinan Surf LodgeGUESTHOUSE$$

  (%0821 7086 6999, 0821 2241 0133; harrissmile@yahoo.com; Jl Mappadejat Km4; r incl meals 600,000Rp; aW)

  Not actually by the sea, the hilly Oinan Surf Lodge, around 4km from Tua Pejat, has amazing terrace views of the iconic Telescopes wave. Rooms are stylish and chic (one with private bathroom); the lodge has its own boat for easy transport to other good breaks.

  oTogat NusaRESORT$$$

  (www.togatnusaretreat.com; Pitojat; d incl meals US$250; aW)

  On the private 12-hectare island of Pitojat, Togat Nusa’s four bungalows cater to only eight guests at a time. The funky and stylish accommodation is crafted using recycled driftwood and stained glass, and good snorkelling and romantic beach dinners make it a good option for surfing/nonsurfing couples. The excellent bar is haunted by a guest-loving langur.

  Katiet

  HT’s Surf ResortSURF RESORT$$$

  (%0813 3733 7224; www.htresort.com; 9 nights from US$1200; aWs)

  With an enviable location in front of the legendary HT’s right-hander and just a short hop from Lance’s Left, Bintangs, Cobra’s and even a couple of beach breaks, HT’s is all about the creature comforts (hot showers, air-con, sports on cable) combined with killer views. Downtime fun includes paddle boarding, snorkelling, and snoozing under palm trees.

  8Information

  The islands are largely undeveloped. Bring all necessities. There’s an ATM in Tua Pejat, but don’t rely on it.

  8Getting There & Away

  Air

  Twelve-seater Susi Air (www.susiair.com) planes link Padang to Rokot airport on Pulau Sipora, but flights are unreliable, with weather delays and last-minute cancellations. Sometimes they agree to take surfboards for around US$100 per board, sometimes they refuse altogether. Book with Regina Adventures in Padang. Flights leave Padang on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday, returning later the same day. The Indonesian government plans to extend the airport on Pulau Sipora to allow access by larger planes.

  Boat

  The Mentawai Islands have become considerably easier to reach with the introduction of a 200-seater speedboat, Mentawai Fast. There are also three ferries that make the overnight journey from the Sumatran mainland to the islands. Ferries take around 10 to 12 hours, depending on sea conditions. In Padang, ferries can be booked through most surfer-friendly homestays, as well as tour agencies.

  FERRIES FROM THE MENTAWAI ISLANDS

  Mentawai Fast (%0751-893 489; mentawaifast@gmail.com; one way 295,000Rp, surfboard 230,000Rp) conveniently runs from the dock in central Padang; note that when it stops at Sikabaluan en route to Siberut from Padang, the total journey time to Siberut is six hours.

  Day Departure (location/time) Arrival (location/time)

  Monday Padang/6am Tua Pejat/9am

  Monday Tua Pejat/3pm Padang/6pm

  Tuesday Padang/7am Siberut/3pm

  Tuesday Siberut/3pm Padang/6pm

  Wednesday Padang/7am Tua Pejat/10am

  Wednesday Tua Pejat/7am Padang/3pm

  Friday Padang/7am Sioban/10.30am

  Friday Sioban/noon Tua Pejat/1pm

  Friday Tua Pejat/3pm Padang/6pm

  Saturday Padang/7am Siberut/11am

  Saturday Siberut/3pm Padang/7pm

  Ambu Ambu & Gambolo are the biggest ferries connecting Padang and the Mentawai islands. Options include air-conditioned VIP seats (180,000Rp), more basic economy seats (95,000Rp) and wooden berths you can lie down on (50,000Rp). Of the two, the Gambolo is more comfortable, though both tend to be very crowded. Both ferries leave from the Teluk Kabang port at Bungus, around 20km south of Padang.

  Day Departure (location/time) Arrival (location) Vessel Name

  Monday Tua Pejat/8pm Padang Gambolo

  Tuesday Padang/5pm Sikakap Ambu Ambu

  Wednesday Padang/7pm Siberut Gambolo

  Thursday Padang/7pm Tua Pejat Ambu Ambu

  Thursday Siberut/9pm Padang Gambolo

  Friday Padang/7pm Siberut Gambolo

  Friday Tua Pejat/8pm Padang Ambu Ambu

  Saturday Padang/5pm Sikakap Ambu Ambu

  Saturday Siberut/7pm Padang Gambolo

  Sunday Padang/7pm Tua Pejat Gambolo

  Sunday Sikakap/5pm Padang Ambu Ambu

  Beriloga is a smaller wooden ferry that departs from the river mouth (Sungai Muara) on Sungai Batang Arau just south of central Padang. Your only option is the crowded deck class
(155,000Rp). Departure times depend on the tide. Don’t count on the Bariloga getting you back to Padang for an urgent international flight. It leaves Padang for Siberut on Monday and for Sioban on Wednesday. It returns to Padang from Siberut on Tuesday and from Sioban on Thursday.

  8Getting Around

  If you’re travelling independently, travelling between islands or surfing spots is an easy way to drift into insolvency. You have three options: charter a speedboat, catch one of the three interisland ferries whose schedules are prone to changes and delay, or ask around to see if you can share a boat with another group.

  Single-engine longboats can be hired from the main villages; if you want to hire a more comfortable two-engine speedboat with a roof, expect to pay considerably more. Sample charter routes (up to five passengers) include Muara Siberut to Ebay (1,500,000Rp, 1½ hours), Ebay to Playgrounds (1,000,000Rp, 30 minutes), Playgrounds to Tua Pejat (3,500,000Rp, 2½ hours) and Sioban to Katiet (1,500,000Rp, two hours). As petrol prices keep increasing, expect the charter prices to rise.

  If you have more time than money, you can island-hop all the way from Siberut to Sao (near Katiet) using the three interisland ferries, KM Beriloga, KM Simasini and KM Simatalu; ticket prices start from 25,000Rp. That’s right: a tiny fraction of speedboat costs, thanks to government subsidies. Check the latest timings with your fixer or your surf camp.

  INTERISLAND FERRY CONNECTIONS

  Departure Destination Vessel Name Frequency

  Maileppet Tua Pejat KM Beriloga, KM Simatalu Monday, Thursday, Friday, Sunday

  Sao (Katiet) Sioban, Tua Pejat KM Simatalu Tuesday

  Sikakap Tua Pejat KM Simasini Wednesday, Sunday

  Tua Pejat Maileppet KM Beriloga, KM Simasini Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, Sunday

  Tua Pejat Sikakap KM Simasini Monday, Saturday

  Bukittinggi

  %0752 / Pop 112,000

  The market town of Bukittinggi sits high above the valley mists as three sentinels – fire-breathing Merapi, benign Singgalang and distant Sago – all look on impassively. Sun-ripened crops grow large in the rich volcanic soil, as frogs call in the paddies, bendis (two-person horse-drawn carts) haul goods to the pasa (market), and the muezzin’s call is heard through the town. Modern life seems far removed. Until 9am. Then the traffic starts up, and there’s soon a mile-long jam around the bus terminal. The air turns the colour of diesel and the mosques counter the traffic by cranking up their amps. Such is the incongruity of modern Bukittinggi, blessed by nature, choked by mortals. Lush. Fertile. Busy. And at 930m above sea level, deliciously temperate all year round.

  The town (alternatively named Tri Arga, which refers to the triumvirate of peaks) has had a chequered history, playing host at various times to Islamic reformists, Dutch colonials, Japanese invaders and Sumatran separatists. It’s a good base for setting out to the Harau Valley and Danau Maninjau.

  Bukittinggi

  1Sights

  1Benteng de KockB2

  2Gua JepangA5

  3Jam GadangC4

  4Pasar AtasD3

  5Taman PanoramaA5

  2Activities, Courses & Tours

  Lite 'n' Easy Tours & TravelC2

  Roni's Tour & TravelB3

  4Sleeping

  6Grand Rocky HotelB3

  7Hello GuesthouseB3

  8HillsC4

  9Hotel Grand KartiniC3

  10Orchid HotelB3

  11Rajawali HomestayC1

  12Treeli HotelC1

  5Eating

  13Bedudal CafeC2

  14De Kock CafeA3

  15NelayanB3

  16Ramadan MarketD3

  17Simpang RayaC3

  18Turret CafeC1

  19Waroeng Jalal Spesifik SambalC1

  6Drinking & Nightlife

  20Rimbun Espresso & Brew BarC2

  3Entertainment

  21Gedung Medan Nan BalinduangC4

  7Shopping

  22Makmur ArtsC3

  1Sights

  Taman PanoramaVIEWPOINT

  (Panorama Park; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Panorama; admission 10,000Rp)

  Taman Panorama, on the southern edge of town, overlooks the deep Ngarai Sianok (Sianok Canyon), where fruit bats swoop at sunset. Friendly guides will approach visitors to lead you through Gua Jepang (Japanese Caves; MAP GOOGLE MAP ), wartime defensive tunnels built by Japanese slave labour; settle on a price (around 30,000Rp) before continuing. Another path (and extra admission) gives you access to the Koto Gadang (Great Wall), a cheesy scaled-down Great Wall of China.

  Pasar AtasMARKET

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP )

  Pasar Atas is a large, colourful market crammed with stalls selling fruit and vegetables, secondhand clothing and crafts. It’s open daily. Find it on the east side of Jl Minangkabau.

  Jam GadangLANDMARK

  (Big Clock Tower; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; btwn Jl Istana & Jl Sudirman)

  Built in the 1920s to house the clock, a gift from the Dutch queen, Jam Gadang is the town’s focal point. Independence in 1945 saw the retrofit of a Minangkabau roof.

  Benteng de KockVIEWPOINT

  (Benteng Fort; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Benteng; admission 7000Rp; h8am-5pm)

  Benteng de Kock was built by the Dutch during the Padri Wars. There’s not much to it but it offers fine views over the town. The adjacent zoo is terrible (animals are underfed and live in cramped conditions) and we don’t recommend visiting it.

  MIXING BUSINESS WITH FRIENDSHIP

  In Indonesia, the line between business and socialising isn’t as distinct as it is in the West. We expect printed prices and obvious sales tactics. Without a price tag, we assume that it is free or done out of friendship. On the other side of the cultural divide, Sumatrans prefer business to resemble friendship: a little chit-chat, a steady sales pitch and a sort of telepathic understanding that payment is expected. They’d rather be helpful than entrepreneurial, but necessity dictates an income. The sluggish state of the Sumatran economy means that unemployment is high, with an overload of young resourceful men supporting themselves by guiding too few tourists.

  Always ask about prices and don’t assume that the quoted price is all-inclusive. You are expected to buy lunch and drinking water for your guide. If transport isn’t included in the initial price, you should pay for this as well. A tip at the end is also welcome. Most guides are smokers and a pack costs about 10,000Rp. If all this seems steep, keep in mind that most guides don’t have much more than a couple of crumpled rupiah to their name, and not a lot of other opportunity for employment.

  TTours

  Local tours fall into two categories – culture and nature – and can range from a half-day meander through neighbouring villages to a three-day jungle trek to Danau Maninjau, or an overnight assault on Gunung Merapi. For climbing in the nearby Harau Valley, contact Abdi Homestay.

  Full-day tours start at around 250,000Rp. Some tours have a minimum quota, though some guides and agencies also run solo tours by motorbike. If approached by a freelance guide, be clear about what you want, and what is and isn’t included.

  ArmandoDRIVING TOUR

  (%0812 674 1852, 0812 6642 0468; arisna_sejati@yahoo.co.id; day tour US$20-25)

  Armando is a helpful, knowledgeable English-speaking guide who is happy to give you cultural tours of the area around Bukittinggi on the back of his motorcycle. He also rents motorbikes if you want to ride your own.

  Lite ’n’ Easy Tours & TravelADVENTURE TOUR

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0813 7453 7413; www.liteneasy.co.id; Jl Yos Sudarso 12)

  This friendly team offers West Sumatra tour options, including Gunung Merapi, the Harau Valley and Danau Maninjau, and trekking on the Mentawai Island of Siberut.

  Roni’s Tour & TravelADVENTURE TOUR

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0812 675 0688; www.ronistours.com; Orchid Hotel, Jl Teuku Umar )

  Based at the Orchid Hotel, Roni’s can arrange everything from local tours to Danau Maninjau and the Harau Valley, to trips to further-afield locations such as the Mentawai
Islands and the Kerinci Seblat National Park.

  zFestivals & Events

  Oxen RacingSPORTS

  (donation 10,000-15,000Rp)

  Local farmer-jockeys race twin oxen through a muddy paddy field, balancing precariously on the wooden runners. This spectacle, which animal welfare experts claim uses inhumane tactics to make the beasts run, takes place near Simasur market in Batu Sangkar, 41km southeast of Bukittinggi, on most Saturdays. Some enterprising locals try to charge foreigners 50,000Rp admission, but a donation is sufficient. Hello Guesthouse can help organise transport.

  Horse RacingSPORTS

  Bukittinggi holds an annual horse race at Bukit Ambacang in early March. Horses are ridden bareback and jockeys wear regional costumes, vying to win kudos for their village, and something else for the onlookers’ wallets. Solok and Sawahlunto also hold annual races.

  4Sleeping

  Hotel tax is only added at top-end places and can be negotiated. On weekends and holidays, rooms can fill quickly with Indonesian visitors, but good weekday discounts can usually be negotiated. In Bukittinggi’s temperate climate, hot water is more desirable than air-con.

  oHello GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0752-21542; helloguesthouse12@gmail.com; Jl Teuku Umar 6b; dm/s/d from 75,000/120,000/150,000Rp; W)

  This excellent new guesthouse with bright and modern rooms is run by thoughtful owner Ling, who understands the needs of budget travellers. She is happy to provide maps of town, has displays on town attractions, and has thoughtfully kitted out her digs with super-comfy mattresses and earplugs to counter the guesthouse’s proximity to a mosque. Spacious deluxe rooms come with balconies.