Lonely Planet Indonesia

by Lonely Planet

  Gunung SinggalangVOLCANO

  (admission 10,000Rp)

  Dormant Gunung Singgalang (2877m) is a more adventurous undertaking than Gunung Merapi, and it’s very difficult to find someone in Bukittinggi to guide you up. Highly recommended English-speaking guide Dedi (0813 7425 1312), based in Pandai Sikat – the best starting point for the climb – charges 200,000Rp and the climb is an eight- to nine-hour round-trip. There are campsites by the beautiful crater lake, Telago Dewi.

  WORTH A TRIP

  HARAU VALLEY

  Heading east from Bukittinggi takes you through the tapioca-growing area of Piladang, famous for keropok (tapioca crackers), and the sprawling agricultural centre of Payakumbuh. Of Minangkabau’s three clans, this is the territory of the 50 Kota (50 Villages) yellow branch. Rice paddies with wallowing buffalo flank the narrow road that leads to the tiny village of Harau, the volcanoes looming behind them. Venture another 3km and spectacular, vertical 100m cliffs, seemingly made of painted rock, rise up to enclose the claustrophobic Harau Valley, 15km northeast of Payakumbuh and 55km from Bukittinggi.

  The most direct way to reach Harau from Bukittinggi is by renting a motorbike (65,000Rp to 80,000Rp) or taking an ojek (200,000Rp, two hours). Alternatively, take a Po Sarah Group minibus from the bus terminal to Tanjung Pati (15,000Rp), and then take an ojek the rest of the way (20,000Rp).

  Lemba Harau (admission 5000Rp) and other waterfalls in the valley attract daytrippers from Bukittinggi, particularly during the rainy season; if the weather’s been dry, they’re reduced to mere trickles.

  Rock climbing is also a big attraction in the Harau Valley, which is the best-developed rock-climbing area in Sumatra. An excellent local contact is Ikbal (%0852 6378 1842) at the Abdi Homestay, who offers guided climbing excursions for US$25. Check out www.climbing.com and www.rockclimbing.com for blogs and more information.

  oAbdi HomestayHOMESTAY$

  (%0852 6378 1842; ikbalharau@yahoo.com; Kab 50 Kota; per person 100,000-150,000Rp)

  Run by young and energetic owners, Ikbal and Noni, Abdi Homestay is the loveliest place to stay in the Harau Valley. Eight adorable thatched bungalows (with mosquito nets and bamboo showers) sit on the edge of verdant rice paddies and lotus ponds; the pricier ones have views. Meals include one of the best chicken rendang you’ll ever have, and Ikbal leads day hikes (US$20 per person) to the top of the cliffs.

  Lembah Echo HOTEL$$

  (%0812 6619 1501; www.lembahecho.com; Taratang Lb Limpato; r with shared bathroom 90,000Rp, r incl breakfast 150,000-600,000Rp)

  Sitting right under the cliffs in the narrowest part of the valley is Lembah Echo, its beautiful grounds encroached on by jungle full of monkeys. Lodgings range from very basic thatched huts that are verging on decrepit to the Minangkabau-style cottages and stylish (if dark) rooms with hardwood furniture and hot showers. Little English spoken and staff can be unhelpful.

  Danau Maninjau

  %0752

  The first glimpse of this perfectly formed volcanic lake sucks your breath away as you lurch over the caldera lip and hurtle towards the first of the 44 hairpin bends down (yep, they’re numbered) to the lakeshore. Monkeys watch your progress from the crash barriers as the road takes you down from the lush rainforest of the highlands to the ever-expanding farms and paddies of the lowlands.

  When the traveller tide receded from Bukittinggi, Danau Maninjau was left high and dry. The locals looked to more sustainable sources of income and aquaculture to fill the void. Fish farms now dot the lake foreshore.

  Ground zero is the intersection where the Bukittinggi highway meets the lake road in the middle of Maninjau village. Turn left or right and drive 60km and you’ll end up back here. The lake is 17km long, 8km wide and 460m above sea level. Most places of interest spread out north along the road to Bayur (3.5km) and beyond. If coming by bus, tell the conductor where you’re staying and you’ll be dropped off at the right spot.

  Danau Maninjau

  4Sleeping

  1Arlen Nova's ParadiseA1

  2Beach Guest HouseB4

  3House of AnnisaB5

  4Muaro Beach BungalowsB4

  5Eating

  Bagoes CafeB4

  5Waterfront ZalinoB3

  1Sights & Activities

  Swimming and canoeing in the lake (warmed by subterranean springs) are still the main draw cards but there are plenty of other options.

  The caldera, covered in rainforest that hides waterfalls and traditional villages, is a hiker’s dream. Hike to the rim from Bayur, or cheat by catching the bus up the hill to Matur, then walking back down via the lookout at Puncak Lawang. Check out the map at Beach Guest House for more good trekking information.

  If you want to zip around the lake on a moped that takes roughly three hours. Beach Guest House organises both guided hikes and motorbike tours.

  LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

  SCENIC ROUTE TO DANAU MANINJAU

  If you have your own wheels, take the quiet road used by locals that zigzags picturesquely through the Sianok Canyon, passing through quiet villages and meandering around jungle-thick corners. Pause at the first bridge you come to for an excellent view of the pointed, greenery-clad Taruko karst that looms above the river. Detour along the unpaved road to the namesake restaurant with a tremendous view of it. The road eventually joins the main road down to Danau Maninjau, so you don’t miss any of the hairpin bends!

  zFestivals & Events

  Rakik RakikCULTURAL

  Rakik Rakik is celebrated on the night before Idul Fitri (the end of Ramadan) by building a platform to hold a replica Minangkabau house and mosque. The offering is then floated out onto the lake on canoes, accompanied by fireworks and revelry.

  4Sleeping

  The majority of Maninjau options front onto aquaculture. There is a sprinkling of hotels, cheap losmen and restaurants between Maninjau and Bayur. Outside Maninjau village, most losmen are reached by walking along rice-paddy paths, so look for the sign by the roadside.

  oBeach Guest HouseGUESTHOUSE$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0752-861799, 0813 6379 7005; www.beachguesthousemaninjau.com; Jl Raya Maninjau; dm 40,000, r 75,000-150,000; W)

  Run by a friendly, energetic local couple, this is Danau Maninjau’s bona fide traveller central. Owners organise excursions, from round-the-lake bicycle or motorbike jaunts to hiking the caldera (seven hours). As for the digs, choose between bunking in the dorm or a range of rooms, the plushest lined up on the lakefront and boasting hot showers.

  Muaro Beach BungalowsBUNGALOW$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0813 3924 0042, 0752-61189; neni967@yahoo.com; Jl Muaro Pisang 53, Maninjau; r 80,000-120,000Rp; W)

  Down a maze of footpaths (about 300m northwest of the main intersection), these beachfront bungalows are the best value in Maninjau. The beach is (almost) free of aquaculture and fish farming, and there’s a good restaurant that’s also open to nonguests. Local tours and activities are on offer.

  Arlen Nova’s ParadiseBUNGALOW$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0853 7475 9288; www.nova-maninjau.id.or.id; Sungai-Rangeh; r 175,000Rp)

  Walk through rice paddies (5.5km north of Maninjau) to these five simple bungalows, draped in passionfruit vines on a private beach, with nary a fish pond in sight. The setting is gorgeous and a plethora of friendly cats hang out at the on-site restaurant, but the lodgings could use some TLC.

  House of AnnisaHISTORIC HOTEL$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0857 6604 1558; Jl H Udin Rahmani, Maninjau; r 280,000Rp)

  This wonderful heritage Dutch villa has been lovingly restored by the great-grandchildren of the original owners. There are only three romantic rooms, one with a brass four-poster bed festooned with mirrors; bathrooms are shared. Unique touches include elegant Arabic calligraphy carved into the outside walls and a gorgeous balcony filled with antique benches and chairs. Call in advance.

  5Eating

  Most of the guesthouses serve the usual standards such as nasi goreng and mie goreng, some Western favourites and
freshly caught fish.

  Bagoes CafeCAFE$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Maninjau; mains 20,000-30,000Rp; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner; Wv)

  This traveller favourite, attached to Beach House in the north part of Maninjau village, combines backpacker staples with local dishes such as vegetable gado gado and mie goreng. Waves lap at the deck and movie nights, accompanied by ice-cold Bintang, take place among the quirky wall art.

  Waterfront ZalinoINDONESIAN$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0815 3541 1074; mains 30,000-85,000Rp; hlunch & dinner)

  A great lakeside location showcases some exotic local specialities like dendeng kijang balado (fried deer with chilli and red pepper), udang (freshwater lake shrimp ) and grilled catfish. If you’re keen to go trekking, ask if Zal – AKA ‘Mr Porcupine’ – is around. Waterfront Zalino is in Gasang, around 1km north of Maninjau’s main intersection.

  8Information

  BRI BankBANK

  ( GOOGLE MAP )

  Has an ATM, but it only dispenses small amounts. Stock up on rupiah in Bukittinggi.

  PT Kesuma Tour & TravelTRAVEL AGENCY

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0752-61422, 0812 669 9661; www.sumatratravelling.com; Jl Panurunan Air Hangat)

  Arranges transfers to Bukittinggii and jungle treks. Also rents outdoor equipment.

  8Getting There & Around

  Buses run hourly between Maninjau and Bukittinggi (20,000Rp, 1¾ hours). Taxis from Bukittinggi start from 160,000Rp.

  Rent mountain bikes (per day 45,000Rp), motorcycles (per day 100,000Rp) and canoes (per day 40,000Rp) from PT Kesuma Tour & Travel or Waterfront Zalino.

  Minibuses (3000Rp) travel the lake road during daylight hours. An ojek from the intersection to Bayur will cost around 10,000Rp.

  Kerinci Valley

  %0748 / Pop 253,000

  Kerinci is a stunning mountain valley tucked away high in the Bukit Barisan on Jambi’s western border. Many of the cool, lush forests are protected as the Kerinci Seblat National Park, the last stronghold of the Sumatran tiger. The valley’s many lakes and jungle-shrouded mountains make it a big draw for hikers in search of off-the-beaten-track adventure. To the south is picturesque Danau Kerinci and a patchwork of rich farmland. Tea and cinnamon account for much of the valley’s wealth, with the former ringing the higher villages and the latter forming a buffer between the farmland and rainforest.

  Minangkabau and native Kerincinese make up most of the population, with a sprinkling of Batak and Javanese who are drawn by the rich soil. Kerinci is in Jambi province but has a close geographic proximity to Padang.

  8Getting There & Away

  Safa Marwa (%0748-22376; Jl Yos Sudarso (Jl Baru) 20) in Sungai Penuh is one of several companies that organises onward travel in buses and shared minibuses. If you’re leaving Kersik Tua for Padang or Bukittinggi, buses can usually pick up en route from Sungai Penuh if your guesthouse books you passage in advance.

  BUSES FROM KERINCI VALLEY

  Destination Fare (Rp) Duration (hr) Frequency

  Bengkulu 150,000 10-12 daily at 10am

  Bukittinggi 130,000 10 daily at 7pm

  Jambi 120,000-150,000 10 daily at 9am, 7pm

  Padang 100,000-130,000 8 daily at 9am, 7pm

  8Getting Around

  Most places in the valley are accessible by the white minibuses that leave the terminal and surrounding area near the market. Sample destinations and fares include Danau Kerinci (15,000Rp, 1½ hours), Kersik Tua (10,000Rp, one hour) and Pelompek (15,000Rp, 1½hours).

  Sungai Penuh

  Sungai Penuh (Full River) is the regional administrative centre and transport hub for the valley. There is a lively market and reliable internet, and the town makes an excellent base for ventures into the wilds of Kerinci Seblat National Park and surrounding villages.

  1Sights

  Mesjid Agung Pondok TinggiMOSQUE

  (admission by donation )

  Head west up Jl Sudirman (past the post office) and turn left, where you’ll find this old wooden mosque with its pagoda-style roof. Built in 1874 without a single nail, the interior contains elaborately carved beams and old, Dutch tiles. Ask the caretaker for permission and cover up.

  TTours

  Wild Sumatra AdventuresCULTURAL TOUR

  (%0812 6017 3651; www.wildsumatra.com; Lake Kaco hike for 2 people 1,400,000Rp, 3-day Mount Tujuh adventure for 2 people 4,500,000Rp)

  Based in Sungai Penuh, enthusiastic expat Luke Mackin is a passionate and knowledgeable local contact for information on the surrounding area, especially the Kerinci Seblat National Park. He has numerous alliances with local trekking guides and villages, is keen to introduce travellers to the area’s many attractions and can organise guides and transport to all attractions described.

  4Sleeping

  Budget accommodation in Sungai Penuh tends to be fairly grim. If you’re looking for greater cultural immersion, Wild Sumatra Adventures can help you organise homestays in villages surrounding Sungai Penuh. Expect to pay around 50,000Rp per night to stay with a local family.

  Hotel YaniHOTEL$

  (%0748-21409; Jl Muradi 1; r 80,000-250,000; a)

  The pick of Sungai Penuh’s cheapies has a barrack vibe, water stains on the walls, cold bucket showers and narrow, short beds most suitable. Central location but no breakfast.

  oHotel KerinciHOTEL$$

  (%0748-324459; Jl Muradi 28; r 120,000-425,000Rp; aW)

  By far the snazziest option in Sungai Penuh, this new and fairly central hotel consists of spotless and almost identical, business-hotel-style rooms, each with a funky purple wall and modern bathroom, with the exception of the cheapies (120,000Rp that share facilities). The suites are the largest, but otherwise the price depends on whether the room has air-con or fan.

  Hotel Jaya WisataHOTEL$$

  (%0748-21221; Jl Martadinata 7; r incl breakfast 170,000-680,000Rp; aW)

  Your options here range from rather depressing cold-water rooms downstairs that could seriously use a coat of paint, to more spacious and stylish rooms upstairs. The location is great – near the cheap eats of the night market.

  5Eating & Drinking

  Kerinci is known for the local speciality of dendeng batokok (charcoal-grilled strips of pounded beef). Street stalls pop up in the evening along Jl Teuku Umar, a block from the square, and along main Jl Muradi.

  Pasar MalamMARKET$

  (off Jl Muradi; meals from 20,000Rp; h5-10pm)

  The centrally located pasar malam (night market) is a terrific place to try local specialities, such as martabak mesir (square pancake filled with meat and vegetables), mie bakso (noodle soup with meatballs), martabak (sweet pancake filled with coconut or banana) and sate with a red gravy rather than peanut sauce.

  Koi Taste CafeINTERNATIONAL$

  (Jl Muradi; mains 11,000-25,000Rp; h4-10pm)

  This friendly new place along the main street en route to Danau Kerinci is decked out with Che Guevara posters, has low Indo-style seating and an eclectic menu. Many dishes are variations on mie goreng and nasi goreng, but you’ll also find the more ambitious buffalo wings, tom yum soup and chicken teriyaki.

  Minang SotoINDONESIAN$

  (Jl Muradi; dishes from 12,000Rp; hlunch & dinner)

  At this busy Padang-style eatery you’re presented with scores of small, spicy dishes, such as the earthy rendang (beef coconut curry) and ayam (chicken) sambal. You’re only supposed to pay for the dishes you sample from.

  Q2 CafeINTERNATIONAL$$

  (mains 15,000-45,000Rp; h9am-10pm)

  Worth a short ride from the centre, this ambitious outdoorsy restaurant mixes it up with numerous lele (catfish) dishes, as well as the tasty mie claypot and even Chicken Gordon [sic] Bleu. Splurge on the tom yum lobster and wash it down with such concoctions as Fruit My Love, cappuccino float and Moon Rever.

  Wiyuka CoffeeCOFFEE

  (Jl Kamaruddin; h9am-7pm; W)

  Excellent new coffee shop giving Sungai Penuh a cosmopolitan touch. You can sample quality beans from all over Sumat
ra and beyond, and there’s even free wi-fi. Traveller hangout potential.

  8Information

  BNI BankBANK

  (Jl Ahmad Yani)

  The centrally located BNI Bank ATM dispenses up to 2,000,000Rp.

  Kantor Taman Nasional Kerinci SeblatPARK OFFICE

  (Kerinci Seblat National Park Office, TNKS; %0748-22250; Jl Basuki Rahmat 11)

  The park headquarters sells permits; they never seem to answer the phone, so just turn up. If it’s closed, you can get permits from losmen in Kersik Tua.

  Post OfficePOST OFFICE

  (Jl Sudirman 1; h8am-4pm)

  Main post office.

  Kersik Tua

  At 1500m, surrounded by tea plantations and dominated by the massive cone of Gunung Kerinci (3805m), Kersik Tua makes a pleasant base for scaling the imposing volcano.

  The town sprawls along one side of the main road, with tea plantations and the mountain on the other. The national park turn-off is indicated by a harimau (Sumatran tiger) statue.