Lonely Planet Indonesia

by Lonely Planet

  Well-worn snorkelling equipment can be rented from most homestays for about 50,000Rp per day, but it is often worth paying a little more to rent some quality equipment from one of the dive centres.

  Trips around Bunaken and nearby islands will cost around €35 per dive, with PADI Open Water courses about €375. Snorkellers can go along with the dive boats for around €5 per person.

  At the time of research there were no dodgy dive schools operating in Bunaken. Still, you should always check the state of equipment and ask about the centre’s safety procedures before you commit.

  DIVE SITES AROUND BUNAKEN

  Pulau Bunaken's profile is incredible: it rises abruptly out of the big blue and its underwater topography is of vertical walls of coral. Neighbouring islands are no less impressive. Off the mainland there is muck diving and a wreck. Here are some dive-site highlights:

  * Likuan There are three dive sites on this remarkable coral wall, which plummets from the shallows into dark oblivion. Reef sharks and lots of turtles are typically encountered.

  * Fukui Point For sheer numbers of fish, this site is outstanding. It's something of a cleaning station for large fish and there are also garden eels and several giant clams.

  * Molas Wreck This is a huge Dutch cargo ship covered with soft corals and sponges. Because of its depth (24m to 40m), it's for advanced divers only.

  * Tanjung Kopi On the northern side of Manado Tua, with schools of barracudas, batfish and jacks; an advanced dive due to strong currents.

  * Celah Celah Great for macro life including ghost pipefish, nudibranchs and pygmy seahorses. Very popular with photographers.

  * Montehage Dramatic diving with barracuda, rays, Napoleon wrasse and schools of bumphead parrotfish. Hammerhead sharks are occasionally encountered, too.

  * Mandolin Huge gorgonians and a forest of whip corals; look out for Napoleon wrasse.

  4Sleeping & Eating

  There are plenty of budget and midrange resorts on Bunaken, but no luxurious hideaways, so if you want serious comfort, stick with the mainland resorts or go to Pulau Siladen. Most rooms include at least a fan and a mosquito net and most places throw in transfers to and from the jetty in Bunaken village, or in some cases to the mainland.

  Pantai Pangalisang

  Forming the east coast, Pantai Pangalisang is a stretch of white sand tucked behind the mangroves, with some outrageous snorkelling just beyond. The beach all but disappears at high tide.

  Lorenso’s Beach GardenGUESTHOUSE$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0852 5697 3345; www.lorensobunaken.com; r per person incl all meals from €32; W)

  Lorenso’s is an excellent choice for travellers; it has a good selection of accommodation on a pretty mangrove-lined bay, and there's world-class snorkelling offshore. The staff is very helpful; there's a good communal vibe; and when the tin-can band rocks up, great live music. Walk-in rates (from 250,000Rp per person) are well below the offical prices quoted here.

  Cakalang BunakenGUESTHOUSE$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0811 431 0208; http://cakalang-bunaken.com; s/d incl all meals 425,000/650,000Rp; aW)

  Intimate new Dutch-owned place on a small cove with four attractive, spacious rooms and perhaps the fastest wi-fi on Bunaken. There's a good dive school and meals are excellent.

  Novita HomestayGUESTHOUSE$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; r per person incl all meals 150,000Rp)

  An authentic local experience right in Bunaken village (at the northern end of the island). Owned and operated by Vita, a terrific cook, who prepares filling, delicious local food.

  Daniel’s ResortGUESTHOUSE$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0823 4949 0270; r per person incl all meals from 230,000Rp; W)

  Run by young party-minded locals, Daniel's is about as budget as it gets on Bunaken. Some of the creaky old wooden cottages are in need of renovation, but others are in decent shape and the garden setting is relaxing. Note that nondivers can be evicted during busy times.

  oLiving ColoursDIVE RESORT$$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0812 430 6401; www.livingcoloursdiving.com; cottages per person incl all meals from €50; iW)

  This wonderful Finnish-owned place enjoys a lovely hillside setting. Its elegant wooden bungalows boast enormous terraces and spacious hot-water bathrooms. There's a little bar (the Safety Stop) by the shore, and meals are served in an open-sided restaurant above the bay. Living Colours' 5-star PADI dive school is particularly well organised.

  Village BunakenRESORT$$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0813 4075 7268; www.bunakenvillage.com; cottages per person incl all meals from €50; aWs)

  With beautiful shady grounds and Javanese-Balinese style, this is one of Bunaken’s swankier options; well-maintained cottages have stylish features and there's a spa. Rates are good value given the tropical chic on offer, and its dive school gets good reports.

  Two FishDIVE RESORT$$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0811 432805; www.twofishdivers.com; r/cottages per person incl all meals from €25/45; iWs)

  A well-run dive resort, with attractive cottages dotted around delightful grounds that include a pool. The professional, eco-aware dive centre is one of the best in North Sulawesi, with a maximum of four divers per guide, five boats and technical diving.

  Cha ChaRESORT$$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0813 5600 3736; www.bunakenchacha.com; cottages/villas per person incl all meals from US$100/120; aW)

  In splendid isolation on the northeastern tip of the island, Cha Cha has an intimate atmosphere and impressive attention to detail. Accommodation (three-night minimum stay) has expanded in recent years to include luxurious villas, and the food gets rave reviews.

  Pantai Liang

  The beach at Pantai Liang has suffered from considerable erosion and rising sea levels, and has thus become a svelte though pleasant strip of white sand. Bungalows are close together, and there’s some beachside action such as seaside food and trinket vendors. However, the beach is a sorry sight when rubbish washes in from Manado.

  The beach just south of Pantai Liang is a protected turtle nesting ground, so keep off even though it looks inviting.

  Happy GeckoBUNGALOW$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0852 9806 4906; www.happygeckoresort.com; s/d per person incl all meals €32/24; W)

  Tumbling down a hillside at the northern end of Pantai Liang, these cute little cottages are a good deal for backpackers, with verandahs, bamboo furniture and private bathrooms. Dives cost just €25 each.

  Panorama Dive ResortBUNGALOW$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0813 4021 7306, 0813 4021 7027; www.bunakendiving.co; cottage per person incl all meals 250,000-350,000Rp; W)

  A family-run place at the southern end of the beach, this large hillside complex has wood bungalows with decks and commanding views. There's a good dive shop here too; fun dives cost 420,000Rp.

  FroggiesDIVE RESORT$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0812 430 1356; www.divefroggies.com; cottage per person incl all meals €27-42; aW)

  One of the first dive centres and still going strong, with a fine beachfront location and 16 cottages (some with two bedrooms) all with terraces.

  Bunaken Island ResortRESORT$$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0813 4021 7027; www.bunaken.nl; bungalows per person incl all meals €79; aW)

  A hillside resort overlooking the sea; huge polished-wood bungalows sport hardwood furniture and rain showers in the bathrooms. The restaurant has fantastic views. High-season rates quoted here are indeed steep, but do drop.

  Pulau Siladen

  Three kilometres north of Pulau Bunaken and the smallest island of the archipelago, Siladen boasts wonderful white-sand beaches (though rubbish is an issue) and a wall of gorgeous corals.

  Tante Martha HomestayGUESTHOUSE$$

  (%0852 4009 7488; bungalow per person incl all meals 270,000Rp)

  This ramshackle place offers very basic bungalows on a simply sublime beach, with great snorkelling steps away. Martha is a fine cook.

  Bobocha
Cottages SiladenCOTTAGE$$$

  (%0853 4161 5044; www.bobochasiladen.com; cottage per person incl all meals €65; W)

  Elegant, beautifully designed cottages in a lovely beachside setting. The owner, Sarah, creates inventive home-cooked food. Located on the southwest side of the island, with sunset views.

  Siladen Resort & SpaDIVE RESORT$$$

  (%0811 430 0641; www.siladen.com; r from €265; aWs)

  Luxurious resort with 17 sumptuously furnished villas that boast all mod cons; the older villas are directly on the beach. Facilities include a (saltwater) lagoon pool, an indulgent spa and a PADI dive centre.

  Tanta MoonBUNGALOW$$$

  (%0431-364-3859; www.tantamoon.ru; d incl all meals & transfers €65; aW)

  Right on the water's edge these wood villas are packed closely together but are beautifully appointed. The hotel's chef is excellent. There's no dive centre.

  8Getting There & Away

  Public boats leave for Bunaken village and Pulau Siladen from Manado (30,000Rp, one hour, Monday to Saturday) at about 3pm, from the harbour near Pasar Jengki fish market in Manado. They return between 7am and 8am from Monday to Saturday. There are also several unscheduled boats (which leave when full) at other times of the day, and you can charter a boat for 250,000Rp.

  From the boat landing in Bunaken village you can walk or hire an ojek (around 10,000Rp to 25,000Rp) to your homestay. Local boats charge 60,000Rp (one-way) for the 20-minute trip between Bunaken and Siladen .

  The more upmarket options on Bunaken offer on-demand boat shuttles to/from Manado for their clients. Otherwise, most guesthouses can help you charter a boat (often small and rickety) for around 250,000Rp.

  When conditions are rough, the public boat stops running, but private boats will usually make the shorter, half-hour crossing between Bunaken and the mainland.

  WORTH A TRIP

  THE BANGKA ISLANDS: MINING VERSUS THE ENVIRONMENT

  Strategically located off the northern tip of Sulawesi between Pulau Bunaken and the Lembeh Strait, the Bangka Islands are part of what makes this region a dive haven. This is where to go for pinnacle diving, and it's also a prime spot for big fauna: dolphins, manta rays and at least nine species of whale all migrate through these waters around March and April and again in August and September. At all times you're likely to see tuna, batfish, jacks and barracuda. There are often fairly strong currents but these make the plentiful soft corals bloom. Away from the pinnacles, you'll find pygmy seahorses, nudibranchs and leaf fish in the coral gardens.

  But this pristine marine environment is threatened by the attentions of a Chinese company, Mikgro Metal Perdana, which commenced iron exploration on Pulau Bangka in 2012, and has subsequently constructed a concrete pier and roads. Locals believe this is the start of a massive mining operationand allege that about 70 Chinese workers are illegally working on Bangka, using heavy machinery.

  Large-scale mining could damage not only the island's ecology but stir up underwater sediment and potentially threaten the coral life of the entire region. A legal case is ongoing. Locals believe Indonesian environmental laws should prohibit mining in Bangka, and they won a constitutional law court case in July 2015. You can keep up with developments via Twitter: @SaveBangka.

  For now at least, it's still a phenomenal place to visit. Dive centres on Bunaken and Lembeh often dive the Bangka Islands, and you can also choose to stay at one of the increasing number of dive resorts on the islands. We recommend the following:

  Mimpi IndahBUNGALOW$$$

  (%0811 432264; www.mimpiindah.com; s/d per person incl all meals €49/64; W)

  An intimate place with a personal touch set in a former coconut plantation, Mimpi Inda has large thatched bungalows facing a pretty beach. There's an in-house dive school that employs good local guides.

  Blue Bay DiversDIVE RESORT$$$

  (www.blue-bay-divers.de; dive packages per day from €100)

  On the beautiful tiny island of Sahuang, across from Pulau Bangka, the German-owned Blue Bay Divers has beachfront bungalows and offers small-dive groups. Prices include three meals and two dives per day.

  Tomohon

  %0431 / Pop 96,500

  Tomohon is the name for a number of small highland towns, surrounded by forests and volcanic peaks, that have merged together. A pleasant, cool respite from Manado, the area has a stunning setting. It’s popular with city folk on weekends; for travellers, it’s an excelllent base to explore the Minahasa region, and for hiking, biking and birdwatching.

  4Sleeping

  oMountain View ResortCOTTAGE$$

  (%0431-315-8666; www.mountainviewtomohon.com; Jl Kali-Kinilow; cottages incl breakfast 375,000-685,000Rp; iW)

  Managed by a knowledgeable German who's spent decades guiding tours in Indonesia, this charming place has fine wooden cottages with attractive bathrooms, set around a pretty garden. The restaurant serves international and local food, and 'early bird' breakfasts for birdwatchers and hikers. There's a small spa and kids play area. Follow the signs from ‘Kinilow’, 5km before Tomohon, on the road to Manado. It's on a side road off the highway.

  Cekakak HostelHOSTEL$$

  (%0431-315 8666; www.cekakak-hostel.blogspot.com; Jl Kali-Kinilow; dm/d incl breakfast 140,000/290,000Rp; iW)

  This fine new hostel offers two good-quality dorms and a pleasant, tranquil setting in a lush valley. You'll find excellent tours and hiking information, and camping gear, mountain bikes and scooters are available for hire. Follow the signs from ‘Kinilow’, about 5km before Tomohon, on the road to Manado. It's on a side road, a few hundred metres from the highway.

  Highland ResortRESORT$$

  (%0431-353333; www.highlandresort.info; Jl Kali-Kinilow; r incl breakfast €35-60; W)

  Located on a quiet lane off the Manado–Tomohon road, with a large collection of spacious, well-equipped wooden bungalows in lush grounds. The restaurant was closed at the time of research. Follow the signs from ‘Kinilow’, about 5km before Tomohon, on the road to Manado.

  Onong’s PalaceB&B$$

  (%0431-315-7090; www.tomohon-onong.com; Jl Kali-Kinilow; r incl breakfast from 350,000Rp; iW)

  More 'place' than 'palace', Onong's has large bungalows with big decks and ageing Bali-style design details, but enjoys an attractive, shady hillside location. It's very tranquil here (except for the call to prayer of the local mosque). Follow the signs from ‘Kinilow’, about 5km before Tomohon, on the road to Manado. It's on a side road, a few hundred metres from the highway.

  MINAHASA ACTIVITIES

  A temperate climate and spectacular volcanic landscapes means the Minahasa region is rapidly developing as an adrenaline centre. Tomohon makes a perfect base for exploring. Possible activities and prices (per person, mimimum two people required) include the following:

  * Gunung Lokon crater lake trek (half day, 290,000Rp) Follow an old lava flow to the rim of the crater.

  * Gunung Soputan volcano trek (full day, 900,000Rp) To the highest peak in North Sulawesi, which is an active volcano.

  * Gunung Klabat volcano trek (two days, 1,500,000Rp) Around five hours to ascend, with wonderful views of Manado city.

  * Whitewater rafting, Nimanga River (half day, 875,000Rp) Starts near Tomohon; 25 rapids and a good chance to spot wildlife.

  * Exploring Tekaan Telu waterfall (half day; 290,000Rp) There are four seperate drops of up to 60m; abseiling and canyoning is possible, too.

  * Birdwatching Gunung Mahawu (one day guided tour, from 600,000Rp) Follow in the footsteps of Alfred Russel Wallace and spot flycatchers, and perhaps a scaly kingfisher.

  Mountain View Resort in Tomohon is a recommended tour operator, specialising in bespoke trips.

  5Eating

  Minahasan cuisine is served in a string of restaurants on a cliff overlooking Manado, just a few kilometres before Tomohon.

  Rumah Makan MTVINDONESIAN$

  (Jl Raya Tomohon; meals 7500-22,000Rp; h7am-10pm; W)

  Half-way between Tomohon and Kinilow, this clea
n, busy dining hall has a long menu of local favourites including bakso (meatball soup) and noodles.

  Food MarketMARKET$

  (hnoon-7pm)

  In the town centre, Tomohon's daily food market has stalls offering lots of local specialities.

  TOMOHON’S MACABRE MARKET

  It’s said that the Minahasan people will eat anything on four legs, apart from the table and chairs, and nowhere is this more evident than at Tomohon’s daily market. Visiting the market (which is right next to the mikrolet terminal) is a slaughterhouse-like experience, with dead and alive dogs, pigs, rats and bats all on display. Sadly the market is known for displays of animal cruelty, and is likely to distress visitors with the slightest interest in animal welfare.

  8Getting There & Around

  Mikrolet travel regularly to Tomohon (9000Rp, one hour) from Terminal Karombasan in Manado. From the terminal in Tomohon, mikrolet head to Manado, and mikrolet and buses go to Tondano and various other towns. A good way to see local sights in little time is to charter a mikrolet or a (more comfortable, but expensive) taxi.