Lonely Planet Indonesia
Page 154
DRINKING WATER
Never drink tap water in Indonesia.
Widely available and cheap, bottled water is generally safe, however, check the seal is intact when purchasing. Look for places that allow you to refill containers, thus cutting down on landfill.
Most ice in restaurants is fine if it is uniform in size and made at a central plant (standard for large cities and tourist areas). Avoid ice that is chipped off larger blocks (more common in rural areas).
Fresh juices are a risk outside of tourist restaurants and cafes.
Women's Health
In the tourist areas and large cities, sanitary products are easily found. This becomes more difficult the more rural you go. Tampons are especially hard to find.
Birth-control options may be limited, so bring adequate supplies of your own form of contraception.
Language
Behind the Scenes
Send Us Your Feedback
We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to postal submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters.
Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions.
Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/privacy.
Our Readers
Many thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes:
A Adloff Hortense, Alexander Echtermeyer, Alexander Pohlmann, Ana Zenic, Andrea Di Giovanni, Andy Counsell, Aniek van Gennip, Anja Hulzinga, Aron Vanoverberghe, Ash Enrici B Barbara Guthrie, Barbie Cole C Carolien Sala, Cees Nijland, Christian Faloppa, Clarissa Ferreira, Claudia Israilev D Danny Carney, David Cops, Dede Siliwangi, Delagloye Aurore, Deniz Çolak, Diego Sánchez, Don Turner, Doug Graeb E Eduardo Mariz, Elise Nabors, Elizabeth Dudley-Bestow, Elizabeth Goofers, Esther Groenendaal, Eugenia Casanova F Fabian Nydegger, Fergus Hadley, Flora Groothuizen, Francesca Piccini, Frank Kaiser, Frank Wagenaars, Franka Otten G Geoff Fox H Hilde Brontsema, Hugo Ideler I Ian Stuart, Igor De Ruitz J Jaap Timmer, Jacques Erard, Javier Guinea, Jeannette Schönau, Jesper Verhey, Jessica Coombes, John Canty, Julien Guilbert, Juras Vezelis K Katrien Laureyssens L Laura Flatau, Laura Sheed, Lena Willems, Lili Thiesen, Lorenzo Ambrosini, Lucas Hullegie, Lucy Periton M Mae Greenfield, Marc Gardner de Beville, Maria Peña, Mariette Huisjes, Mariza Attinger, Mark Snoeij, Marta Kaminska, Martijn van Graafeiland, Michele van Nes, Miguel Moreno, Mikael Kirkensgaard, Mike van Buul, Miriam van den Bent, Mojca Čebul N Natalia Nowinska, Nick Verberkmoes, Nicolas Combremont, Nienke Nieuwenhuis, Nigel Foster P Paul Bookallil, Paula Jones, Peter Mjos, Petra Glanzmann, Petra O’Neill, Phil Paille, Pierre Saraber, Poorna Beri R Rebecca Pierpont, Renata Grabowska, Richard Hill, Rob Falloon, Robyn Davis, Rotem Zur S Sabrina Haake, Sam Godding, Sara Molin, Sidsel Filipsen, Simon Morton, Simon Pridmore, Spencer Wood, Stefanus Prayogo, Stéphane Damour, Stephen Wilson, Stuart McBride T Tanja Nijhoff, Terence Pike, Teresa Wong, Tim Lovatt, Tim Mertens, Tobias Bloyd, Trent Paton V Vernesa Šaran, Vicky Sims W Walter Denzel X Xander Chong
Author Thanks
Loren Bell
Terima kasih banyak dua kali to every person I met while on the road – from local guides, to the villagers who kept refilling my glass with tuak, to the taxi driver who brought his extended family on our excursion. You are too numerous to name, but it’s the people of Kalimantan that make this place amazing. And a special thank you to Kari – for your love, support, and patience, even when I might not have deserved it.
Stuart Butler
First and foremost I must, once again, thank my wife, Heather, and children, Jake and Grace, for their patience with this project. I know it’s not easy for any of you. I would also like to thank Kosman Kogoya and porters for a great trek. The people of Obia village, Bony Kondahon, Charles Roring, Hans Mandacan, Andreas Ndruru and Bob Palege. Finally, I would like to thank Ben Wallis for being the world’s oldest grom.
Trent Holden
First up a big thanks to Destination Editor Sarah Reid for giving me the opportunity to cover the Bali chapter; it was a dream gig. Thanks also to my fellow authors and the production team in Melbourne for putting this massive book together. Special thanks to all the Balinese people who I had the delight to deal with, whose good nature and humour made my job a joy. A shout out to Gusri Tri Putra, a highly recommended guide (look him up!), and to all the travellers I met on the trip who were full of useful tips and suggestions. Also to Eddie and Lynette, Cameron Munroe and Paul Jacobs for the beers and footy – a small world indeed! Finally, lots of love to my family and my girlfriend, Kate, who I have the great fortune to travel the world with.
Anna Kaminski
I would like to thank Sarah for entrusting me with the Sumatra chapter, Brett and Stuart for the contacts and advice, and all who helped me on the road. In particular: Luke in Sungai Penuh; Joshua and Wild Sumatra in Bengkulu; Sumatra Ecotravel in Bukit Lawang; Nachelle Homestay in Berastagi; Darmawan (and Rega) in Singkil and in the Banyaks; Josep and Doris in Ketambe; Annette in Tuk Tuk; Freddie on Pulau Weh; Alessandro, Ade and Harris on the Mentawais; Ulrich, Armando and Ling in Bukittinggi; Brigitte and Bruno in Padang; James and Murray in Krui; and all my drivers.
Hugh McNaughtan
All thanks are due to Tasmin and Sarah. And my little ladies, always.
Adam Skolnick
It’s always a great pleasure to return to Indonesia again and again. Java is a manic mess, but it’s always a blast and I cannot wait to return. Special thanks to Yudhi Suryana, Yuono and Novi Tartousodo, Eno Phadma, FitriCiptosari, Jason Wolcott, Brett Black, Made Dex Ati, Putri Indra, Eka, Yus and the whole Clear Café Family. Thanks also to Iain Stewart and the great RVB. Always a pleasure to work with you guys.
Iain Stewart
Thanks to Dodo for the warm welcome at Makassar airport, and his kindness and travel expertise. In Bira, Gavin and Nini helped me when my chips were down. Enos, thanks for your help in Toraja, as well as Adi in Palu and Reza in Luwuk. The Togeans would not have been the same without Fleuriette and the Kadidiri gang. While up in North Sulawesi, Mikel was the expert guide. Special thanks to Ady, dive instructor extraordinaire.
Ryan Ver Berkmoes
Many thanks to friends, like the extraordinary Amy Brenneman, Romy and Lola; the incomparable Hanafi; Patticakes, Ibu Cat, Stuart, Rucina and Kerry and Milt Turner. Off-Bali: Amber Clifton, Paul Landgraver, Ilham, Saripa, Philip, Edwin and many, many more were generous with time, ideas and expertise. And Alexis Averbuck, who I once met on Bali and who I married while writing this book.
Acknowledgements
Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344.
Cover photograph: Gunungs Penanjakan,Bromo, Batok, and Semeru in Java; NigelParvitt/AWL.
This Book
This 11th edition of Lonely Planet’s Indonesia guidebook was researched and written by Loren Bell, Stuart Butler, Trent Holden, Anna Kaminski, Hugh McNaughtan, Adam Skolnick, Iain Stewart and Ryan Ver Berkmoes. The previous edition was researched and written by Ryan Ver Berkmoes, Brett Atkinson, Celeste Brash, Stuart Butler, John Noble, Adam Skolnick, Iain Stewart and Paul Stiles. This guidebook was produced by the following:
Destination Editor Sarah Reid
Product Edito
rs Jenna Myers, Elizabeth Jones
Regional Senior Cartographer Julie Sheridan
Assisting Cartographers Julie Dodkins, Anthony Phelan
Book Designer Wendy Wright
Assisting Editors Andrew Bain, Carolyn Bain, Imogen Bannister, Paul Harding, Gabrielle Innes, Rosie Nicholson, Susan Paterson, Monique Perrin, Chris Pitts
Cover Researcher Naomi Parker
Thanks to Carolyn Boicos, Daniel Corbett, Grace Dobell, Jane Grisman, Victoria Harrison, Andi Jones, Anne Mason, Catherine Naghten, Karyn Noble, Kirsten Rawlings, Wibowo Rusli, Vicky Smith, Timothy Stewart-Page, Angela Tinson, Lauren Wellicome, Amanda Williamson
Ebook thanks to Andrew Bigger, Ruth Cosgrove, Julie Dodkins, Liz Heynes, Craig Kilburn, Chris Love, Clara Monitto, Wayne Murphy, Jacqui Saunders, John Taufa, Glenn van der Knijff, Yanxiang Wang, Juan Winata.
Our Story
A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.
Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.
Our Writers
Loren Bell
Kalimantan, Environment Loren fell in love with Kalimantan during his three years managing a remote rainforest research station, and has returned every year since. For this book, he stoically slept in hotels (on real beds!) and ate in actual restaurants before darting back to the jungle in search of more remote Dayak villages and the forest pondok where he feels most at ease. He also writes about Indonesia’s environment for Mongabay.com, and consults for NGOs working to protect Kalimantan’s forests.
Stuart Butler
Papua Stuart first hit the shores of Indonesia many years ago at the end of a long trans-Asia surf trip. Not surprisingly, it was the highlight of his trip. Today, Stuart lives with his wife and two young children, Jake and Grace, on the beautiful beaches of southwest France. His love of hiking and interest in tribal cultures meant that covering Papua was a dream project for him. His travels have taken him across Indonesia and beyond, from Himalayan mountain trails to the savannahs of East Africa. His website is www.stuartbutlerjournalist.com.
Trent Holden
Bali Trent first visited Bali as a young Aussie backpacker in 1997. Two decades later, without hesitation he jumped at the opportunity to cover it for Lonely Planet. A regular visitor to Indonesia, Trent believes Bali has lost none of its charms; if anything, it gets better by the year. He also rates the food among the tastiest in the world, and thrives upon his eternal quest to find the best Balinese nasi campur. Trent has covered around 25 titles for Lonely Planet, researching and writing about destinations from Sumatra and Phuket to India’s Andaman Islands, Nepal and Uganda. Trent also wrote the Outdoor Adventures chapter for this title.
Anna Kaminski
Sumatra Anna has been tramping through jungles around the world for over a decade, passing through both Sumatra and wilder Kalimantan during the course of her travels. On this occasion, she was delighted to re-explore Sumatra, particularly its remoter islands and its southern half. This yielded some wonderful surprises: the Kerinci Valley and the Bengkulu region. Though based in Europe, Anna returns to Southeast Asia (and Indonesia) as often as possible, drawn by the fiery cuisine and the constant travel challenges.
Hugh McNaughtan
Maluku A former English lecturer, Hugh decided visa applications beat grant applications, and turned his love of travel into a full-time thing. Having also done a bit of restaurant reviewing in his hometown (Melbourne), he’s now eaten his way across Europe, Southeast Asia, the US and Sri Lanka (and can honestly say that nowhere is the fish as delicious as it is in Maluku). Never happier than when on the road with his two daughters (except perhaps on the cricket field), he’s given his youth to the life peripatetic.
Adam Skolnick
Java Adam has written about travel, culture, health, sports, human rights and the environment for Lonely Planet, The New York Times, Outside, Playboy, Men’s Health, Travel & Leisure, Salon.com, BBC.com and ESPN.com. He has authored or co-authored 25 Lonely Planet guidebooks, and is the author of One Breath: Freediving, Death, and the Quest To Shatter Human Limits, about the life and death of America’s greatest freediver. You can read more of his work at www.adamskolnick.com. Find him on Twitter and Instagram (@adamskolnick).
Iain Stewart
Sulawesi Iain has visited Indonesia 10 times, and travelled from Pandang in West Sumatra to Kupang in Timor. He first went to Sulawesi back in 1994, when waiting for five days for a boat connection wasn’t unusual. Travel is now somewhat easier but the island remains as enchanting as ever. Iain has contributed to numerous Lonely Planet guidebooks, including four editions of Indonesia – Sulawesi is his favourite island.
Ryan Ver Berkmoes
Nusa Tenggara, Plan, Understand, Survival Guide Ryan first visited Indonesia in 1993. On his visits since, he has criss-crossed the archipelago, trying to make a dent in those 17,000 islands. Recent thrills included the ancient villages of West Timor and finding his new favourite beach on Flores (it’s near Paga). Off-island, Ryan travels the world writing and calls New York City home. Read more atryanverberkmoes.com and at @ryanvb.
Stay in Touch
lonelyplanet.com/contact
Australia
Levels 2 & 3, 551 Swanston St, Carlton, Victoria 3053 %03 8379 8000, fax 03 8379 8111
USA
150 Linden Street, Oakland, CA 94607 %510 250 6400, toll free 800 275 8555, fax 510 893 8572
UK
240 Blackfriars Road, London SE1 8NW %020 3771 5100, fax 020 3771 5101
twitter.com/lonelyplanet
facebook.com/lonelyplanet
instagram.com/lonelyplanet
youtube.com/lonelyplanet
lonelyplanet.com/newsletter
Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
ABN 36 005 607 983
11 edition - Jun 2016
ISBN 9781760341619
© Lonely Planet 2016 Photographs © as indicated 2016
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.
Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasonable care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.