Goldy's Kitchen Cookbook
Page 24
1. In a large saucepan, combine the sugar and water. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Allow the mixture to boil until it reaches the soft-ball stage (234˚ to 240˚F) on a candy thermometer.
2. Immediately remove the pan from the heat. Using a wooden spoon, carefully and slowly swirl in the sherry until well combined.
Whipped Cream Topping
1 tablespoon spring water
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 teaspoon unflavored gelatin powder
2 cups (1 pint) heavy (whipping) cream, well chilled
2 tablespoons powdered sugar
1. Pour the water and vanilla into a small saucepan. Sprinkle the gelatin powder over the surface of the liquid and allow the gelatin to soften for 2 minutes. Turn the heat on under the pan to medium-low. Swirling the mixture frequently, cook and stir the mixture until the gelatin is completely dissolved. Keep the heat on very low to maintain the liquid gelatin mixture.
2. In a large bowl, whip the cream until it forms soft peaks. Beat in the powdered sugar and whip until stiff peaks form.
3. With the beater running, pour the liquid gelatin mixture into the cream and beat until completely combined.
All-American Deep-Dish Apple Pie
—DARK TORT—
This recipe has been honed over the years, and is our family’s favorite apple pie. (We planted an apple tree in our yard and, as with the cherry trees, the elk ate that one down to the ground.) Serve with best-quality vanilla or cinnamon ice cream.
Crust:
1¾ cups plus 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons powdered sugar
½ teaspoon salt
1½ sticks (6 ounces) cold unsalted butter, cut into 1-tablespoon pieces and chilled
3 tablespoons lard or vegetable shortening, cut into 1-tablespoon pieces and chilled
¼ cup iced spring water, plus 1 to 2 tablespoons more if needed
1 large egg, lightly beaten
Filling:
1¼ teaspoons ground cinnamon
¾ cup sugar
8 peeled, cored, and thinly sliced Granny Smith apples
Topping:
1¼ cups all-purpose flour
½ cup sugar
10 tablespoons (1¼ sticks) chilled unsalted butter, cut into 1-tablespoon pieces
For the crust:
1. In a large bowl (or in the bowl of a food processor fitted with the metal blade), whisk together the flour, sugar, and salt until thoroughly combined, about 10 seconds. Drop the first 4 tablespoons of chilled butter on top of the flour mixture, and cut in with 2 sharp knives (or pulse in the food processor) just until the mixture looks like tiny crumbs. (In the food processor, this will take less than a minute.) Repeat with the rest of the butter and the lard (or vegetable shortening) in batches, keeping the unused portions well chilled until it is time to add it to the flour. The mixture will look like large crumbs when all the butter and lard have been incorporated.
2. Sprinkle the ¼ cup water over the top of the mixture, and either mix with a spoon or pulse in the food processor until the mixture just begins to hold together in clumps. If the mixture is too dry to hold together, add 1 to 2 tablespoons additional water until it does. Place the mixture into a 2-gallon zippered plastic bag. Pressing very lightly through the plastic, quickly gather the mixture into a rough round in the center of the bag. Refrigerate the bag of dough until it is thoroughly chilled.
3. When you are ready to make the pie, preheat the oven to 400˚F. Have a 9-inch deep-dish pie plate and a rimmed baking sheet at the ready.
4. Remove the bag of dough from the refrigerator. Unzip the bag, then quickly roll out the dough (still inside the bag) to a round about 10 inches in diameter. Using scissors, cut the plastic all the way around the bag and gently lift one side of the plastic. Place the bag, dough side down, into the pie plate. Gently remove the remaining piece of plastic so that the dough falls into the plate. Trim and flute the edge of the crust. Using the tines of a fork, prick the pie crust in several places to allow for steam to evaporate. Gently line the crust with parchment paper and weight down the crust with ceramic pie weights or uncooked rice or beans.
5. Bake for 10 minutes. Remove from the oven, take out the parchment and weights, and brush the bottom and sides of the crust with the beaten egg (you will not use all of the egg). Return the crust to the oven and bake for 10 minutes more. If the fluted edge begins to brown too quickly, it can be covered with pieces of foil until the crust is baked. Remove the crust from the oven and allow it to cool slightly while you prepare the filling and topping.
For the filling:
In a small bowl, combine the cinnamon and sugar. Place the apple slices in a large bowl. Sprinkle the apples with the cinnamon-sugar mixture and set aside while you prepare the topping.
For the topping:
1. In a large bowl (or in the bowl of a food processor fitted with the metal blade), whisk together the flour and sugar for 10 seconds. Drop the pieces of butter on top of the flour mixture and cut in with 2 sharp knives (or pulse in the food processor) just until the mixture resembles large crumbs. Do not overblend.
2. Place the apple mixture in the crust. It may seem very tall, but the fruit will cook down. Take the time to get all the apple slices in, even if you have to cut some of the slices in half. (Discard any liquid that has accumulated in the bottom of the bowl.) Evenly spread the topping over the apples.
3. Place the pie on the rimmed baking sheet, place in the oven, and reduce the oven temperature to 375˚F. Bake for 40 to 45 minutes, or until the topping is browned and the apples are cooked. (If it seems as if the topping is burning, reduce the oven temperature even more, to 350˚F.)
4. Cool the pie on a rack for at least 2 hours so it can set up.
Makes 8 large servings
Chocolate-Lovers’ Dipped Fruit
—DARK TORT—
At holiday time, I make these dipped dried fruits for family and friends. My own favorite is dipping glacé apricots, but in summer, the family loves the dipped long-stemmed strawberries. Considering how much commercial enterprises charge for these confections (producing an inferior product), this recipe is a gold mine.
8 ounces best-quality bittersweet chocolate, such as Godiva Dark, chopped
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
11 to 12 ounces dried fruit (apricots, strawberries, peaches, pears, etc.)
In the top of a double boiler, over simmering water, melt the chocolate and butter, stirring frequently. Line a baking sheet with wax paper. When the chocolate and butter are thoroughly melted and blended, turn down the heat under the double boiler. Holding the top of a piece of fruit between your thumb and forefinger, gently dip the bottom end into the hot chocolate. Immediately raise the fruit, shake it gently to loosen any stray drops, then place it on the wax paper to cool completely. Repeat with the rest of the fruit.
Totally Unorthodox Coeur à la Crème
—FATALLY FLAKY—
This recipe is unorthodox because it has a crust. But people like crusts, so have at it. Brushing the apricot preserve mixture over the fruit at serving time makes the dessert look spectacular.
2½ cups heavy (whipping) cream, chilled
16 ounces mascarpone cheese, at room temperature
1 cup powdered sugar, sifted
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
Hazelnut Crust (recipe follows)
1 pound fresh strawberries, rinsed, patted dry, and halved
1 pound fresh blueberries, rinsed and patted dry
1 cup apricot preserves
½ cup spring water
1. In a large bowl, with an electric mixer fitted with the whip attachment, beat the cream until stiff peaks form, 2 to 3 minutes.
2. In another large bowl, with an electric mixer, beat the mascarpone on low speed just until blended. Add the sugar and vanilla and beat only until well blended.
3. Using a rubber spatula, fold the whipped cream into the cheese mixture.
4.
Cut 2 pieces of 2-ply cheesecloth large enough to line a large sieve with enough cheesecloth left over to fold up over the combined mixture. Wet the cheesecloth pieces and wring them out. Line a strainer or mold with the cheesecloth.
5. Gently spoon the mixture into the lined sieve. Fold the ends of the cheesecloth up over the mixture. Suspend the sieve over a bowl and put into the refrigerator. Allow to drain overnight.
6. To assemble the coeur, make the hazelnut crust and allow to cool completely. Spoon the chilled and drained mascarpone mixture into the cooled crust and spread it evenly. (You may cover the coeur with plastic wrap at this point and chill for up to 4 hours.)
7. Just before serving time, arrange the strawberries and blueberries in rows on top of the mascarpone mixture. In a small pan, heat the apricot preserves with the water over low heat. Remove from the heat, strain, and cool slightly. Brush over the fruit. (You will not use all of the apricot mixture.)
Makes 12 servings
Hazelnut Crust
1½ cups skinned hazelnuts (aka filberts)
2 cups all-purpose flour
3 tablespoons powdered sugar
2 sticks (½ pound) unsalted butter, melted
1. In a large skillet, toast the hazelnuts over medium-low heat, stirring constantly, until they give off a nutty scent, 10 to 15 minutes. Place the nuts on paper towels to cool. When they are cool enough to touch, place the nuts on a cutting board and roughly chop.
2. Preheat the oven to 350˚F. Generously butter the bottom of a 9 x 13-inch glass baking dish.
3. Sift the flour with the powdered sugar and place it in a large bowl. Using a wooden spoon, mix in the melted butter and chopped hazelnuts. Pat the mixture into the bottom of the prepared pan.
4. Bake for 10 to 15 minutes, or until the edges of the crust begin to brown. Place on a rack to cool completely before filling.
Black-and-White Cake
—FATALLY FLAKY—
When I was a young teen, the coolest place to get dessert was Gifford’s, in Bethesda, Maryland. There, I would always order a slice of an ice-cream cake that I tried to duplicate here. When I tested this recipe (those young relatives again), one group confessed that their mother had never allowed them to have Häagen-Dazs ice cream. I quickly corrected that oversight. In the original cake recipe, I used milk, but after later experiments, the family insisted I change it to water. Either works.
Note: This is an ice-cream cake and should be kept frozen until ready to serve.
1 quart best-quality vanilla ice cream, such as Häagen-Dazs
3 cups all-purpose flour (high altitude: add ¼ cup)
2 cups sugar
¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons Dutch-process unsweetened cocoa powder
2 teaspoons baking soda
1 teaspoon salt
½ cup plus 2 tablespoons safflower, canola, or corn oil
2 tablespoons distilled white vinegar
1 tablespoon vanilla extract
2 tablespoons dark rum
2 cups spring water or milk, preferably whole (high altitude: add 1 tablespoon)
Chocolate Glaze (recipe follows)
1. Preheat the oven to 350˚F.
Butter a 9-inch round cake pan and a large cooling rack. Butter and flour 2 more 9-inch round cake pans.
2. Soften the ice cream in a microwave oven, just until it is spreadable. Spread it evenly in the buttered pan and place it in the freezer.
3. Sift together the flour, sugar, cocoa, baking soda, and salt. Sift it again into a large bowl. Add the oil, vinegar, vanilla, rum, and water or milk and with an electric mixer beat on low speed for 1 minute, then scrape the bowl. Beat on medium speed for 1 to 2 minutes, or until the batter is completely mixed.
4. Pour the batter into the buttered and floured pans and bake for 25 to 35 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted in the cake comes out with only a crumb or two adhering to it. Cool in the pans for 10 minutes, then turn out onto the buttered rack to cool completely.
5. When you are ready to assemble the cake, soften the ice-cream layer slightly by dipping the pan quickly into hot water. Unmold it onto a plate. Place one cake layer on a serving plate. Place the ice-cream layer on top. Carefully place the second cake layer on top of the ice cream. Loosely cover the whole thing with foil and put back in the freezer. Freeze until firm, at least 3 hours.
6. Make the chocolate glaze and allow it to come to room temperature.
7. When you are ready to serve dessert, remove the cake from the freezer. Slowly pour the glaze over the cake, smoothing over the tops and sides. Using a serrated knife dipped in hot water and wiped dry, cut the cake.
8. Refreeze any unused portions.
Makes 12 large servings
Chocolate Glaze
10 ounces best-quality bittersweet chocolate, such as Godiva Dark, chopped
2½ sticks (10 ounces) unsalted butter
3 tablespoons light corn syrup
In the top of a double boiler, over simmering water, melt the butter and chocolate, stirring until melted. Remove the top pan of the double boiler from the bottom pan and whisk in the corn syrup. Allow to come to room temperature before using.
Breakfast Bread Pudding with Rum Sauce
—CRUNCH TIME—
This rich pudding could also be served after dinner, of course. But when we have guests for breakfast, this is what I make. I usually serve it with a spiral-sliced ham.
Bread pudding:
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1½ cups sugar
1½ pounds raisin bread, torn into bite-size pieces
4 tablespoons (½ stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature
4 large eggs, at room temperature
4 cups half-and-half
2 tablespoons vanilla extract (see Note)
Rum sauce:
8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter
1 cup packed light brown sugar
⅓ cup best-quality dark or light rum
¼ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
1 large egg
For the bread pudding:
1. In a small bowl, mix the cinnamon into the sugar until well combined and set aside. Butter a 9 x 13-inch glass baking dish and place the torn-up bread into it.
2. In a large bowl, with an electric mixer, beat the butter until it is creamy. Mix in the cinnamon-sugar mixture and beat until very creamy. Add the eggs, one at a time, and beat until well combined. Mix in the half-and-half and vanilla and beat well. (The mixture will be thin and will not be completely combined; this is normal.) Stop the beaters and use a spatula to mix as well as possible.
3. Pour the butter mixture over the torn-up bread. Cover the pan with plastic wrap and place in the refrigerator overnight.
4. In the morning, remove the pan from the refrigerator and discard the plastic wrap.
5. Preheat the oven to 350˚F.
6. Bake the pudding for 30 minutes, then remove from the oven and stir with a wooden spoon, smoothing the pudding out evenly to the edges of the pan. Place the pudding back in the oven and bake for an additional 30 minutes, or until it is puffed and golden. While the pudding is baking, prepare the rum sauce.
For the rum sauce:
1. In a medium sauté pan, melt the butter over low heat. Add the brown sugar, rum, and nutmeg and stir carefully with a wooden spoon or heatproof silicone spatula until the sugar dissolves and the mixture is well blended. Remove from the heat and allow to cool slightly, still in the pan.
2. In a small bowl, beat the egg until it is very frothy. Beat the egg into the butter mixture until well combined. Place the pan back on the stove and cook, stirring, over medium-low heat, until the mixture thickens.
3. Remove the pudding from the oven, place on a cooling rack, and carefully pour the rum sauce over it. Allow the sauce to soak into the pudding (2 to 3 minutes) and then serve. The pudding will be very hot.
Makes 8 servings
Note: If possible, use Mexican vanilla, or you can use 1 tablespoon vanilla extract and
1 tablespoon vanilla bean paste.
Sugar-Free Vanilla Gelato
—THE WHOLE ENCHILADA—
I have tried baking with sugar substitutes and have never had much luck producing a worthy product. But making a cold sugar-free dessert worked.
4 egg yolks, from large eggs
½ cup sugar substitute for baking, such as Splenda for Baking
1½ cups whole milk
1½ cups heavy (whipping) cream
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for freezing the bowl of your ice-cream or gelato maker.
2. In a large bowl, whisk the egg yolks with the sugar substitute until thoroughly combined. Set aside.
3. Place the milk and cream in a medium heavy-bottomed saucepan and place over low heat, stirring occasionally, until the mixture comes to a simmer (bubbles appear around the outside of the mixture). Remove from the heat and pour into a 4-cup glass measuring cup.
4. Whisking the egg yolk mixture constantly, pour in the hot milk mixture very gradually. (The key here is not to cook the eggs. You are beginning to make a custard, not scrambled eggs.) Whisk until completely combined.
5. Pour the egg-milk mixture back into the pan and place over medium-low heat. Put a thermometer into the pan so that it is not touching the bottom (you can usually clip a candy thermometer to the side of the pan). Stir constantly with a wooden spoon until the mixture thickens and covers the spoon. The thermometer should read just above 170˚F. Once the mixture thickens, immediately remove it from the heat. It is now a custard. (If bits of cooked egg begin to appear before the thermometer reaches 170˚F, immediately remove from the heat.)
6. Using a paper towel, wipe out the 4-cup glass measuring cup. (You will be pouring the cooked custard back into it.)
7. Pour the thickened custard mixture through a sieve back into the 4-cup glass measuring cup. Stir in the vanilla. Place a large piece of plastic wrap directly onto the custard to cover completely. (This is to prevent a skin from forming as the custard cools.)