The Backyard Homestead

by Carleen Madigan

  Primal Cuts

  Primal cuts are large cuts that are often transported to butcher shops for further butchering and sale. There are seven primal cuts in the halved hog carcass:

  1. The leg, which is comparable to the round in beef and produces boneless leg, ham, and ham steaks

  2. The loin, which can produce blade chops, loin chops, butterfly chops, country-style ribs, back ribs, Canadian-style bacon, loin roasts, and tenderloin

  3. The side pork, which yields the bacon

  4. The spareribs, which yield both ribs and salt pork

  5. The Boston shoulder, from which can come pork cubes, Boston roasts, and shoulder rolls

  6. The picnic shoulder, which yields roasts and steaks, ground pork, and sausage

  7. The jowl, which can be cured for seasoning meat or sliced like bacon

  No single carcass can produce all of the above meats, but the beauty of home processing is that you can give over as much of the carcass as possible to your family’s favorite cuts.

  Pork Cuts

  Raising Rabbits

  In the United States, rabbits are mostly raised as pets or for show. However, the culinary traditions of many other countries often include rabbit as a mainstay, and raising rabbits is a strong backyard industry. If you’re interested in raising animals for meat on a small property, rabbits may be one of your best options.

  First of all, they take up less space than any other kind of meat-producing animal and are relatively inexpensive to feed. Rabbit meat is tender and mild, not to mention higher in protein and lower in fat than chicken, turkey, beef, lamb, or pork. Because they reproduce . . . well, like rabbits . . . it’s possible to raise as many as 16 kits (baby rabbits) to harvest weight each year after starting from just one pair.

  Rabbits have other uses on the backyard homestead in addition to producing meat. Fur is another product that can be used or sold for profit after the rabbit is butchered. Rabbit droppings are an excellent fertilizer for the vegetable garden; try situating the rabbit hutches nearby to making transporting waste a bit easier.

  Choosing a Breed

  Worldwide, there are 25 species of rabbits. Wild rabbits native to North America include the eastern cotton-tail, the desert cottontail, and the marsh rabbit. Tame rabbits that are raised in North America as pets and for fur and meat are descended from wild European rabbits.

  Selecting a breed is probably the most important decision you will make. Your choice of breed affects many things, such as the size of the cage you will need and when you should first breed young rabbits. Research each of the breeds you’re considering so you can choose the one that best suits you.

  Crossbred rabbits, which are rabbits that have more than one breed in their family background, are appealing and readily available. However, it’s best to begin with purebred rabbits. Pure-bred rabbits may cost more than crossbred rabbits, but they have many advantages that soon make up for the difference in price:

  • A crossbred rabbit costs just as much to house and feed as a purebred.

  • If you plan to breed and sell rabbits, purebred young bring a better sale price. You can therefore soon make up the difference in the initial cost of your parent stock (the mother and father).

  • If you want to show your rabbits — and showing is fun! — purebred rabbits will qualify to exhibit at more shows.

  Meat Breeds

  If you are interested in raising rabbits for meat production, consider the large breeds, which weigh from 9 to 11 pounds when mature. Large breeds generally convert feed to meat at a profitable rate, and they yield an ideal fryer — 4 or more pounds — at eight weeks of age, the preferred age for culling. Although not all large breeds are ideal for meat production, the following popular breeds are worth looking into.

  Meat Breeds

  Californian

  Champagne D’Argent

  Florida White

  New Zealand

  Palomino

  Californian. The Californian is an outstanding meat breed. It is white with black coloring on the feet, tail, ears, and nose.

  Champagne D’Argent. One of the oldest rabbit breeds, this silver-colored rabbit is born completely black and gradually turns silver as it matures. The breed is well regarded for both its meat and its fur.

  Florida White. Although the Florida White weighs only 4 to 6 pounds, it is a good meat rabbit. The Florida White was created in the United States.

  New Zealand. This breed has long been a top-quality meat producer. Although the breed comes in three color varieties — red, white, and black — the white variety has proved most popular for serious rabbit-meat-producing businesses. New Zealands are known for their full, well-muscled bodies and their ability to become market-ready fryers (4 to 5 pounds liveweight) by eight weeks of age. The New Zealand White is also an excellent fur breed.

  High-Protein, Low-Calorie Rabbit

  Palomino. The Palomino combines an attractive color with a body type that is well suited for meat production. Like the Florida White, the Palomino was developed in the United States. The breed is available in two colors: golden and lynx.

  Processing and Preserving Meat

  This section covers general procedures for freezing and gives basic methods for curing, smoking, and sausage making. The directions are only examples of techniques. Collect as many recipes for preserving and sausage making as you can, and vary the basic ones given here to suit your taste.

  Freezing

  Freezing is a method of preserving or storing food in a frozen state during which the growth activity of bacteria, molds, yeasts, and enzymes is slowed down or stopped. During freezing, water in meat is transformed into ice crystals.

  Contrary to popular belief, freezing does not kill all bacteria; bacteria will begin growing again after meat is thawed. Also contrary to general opinion, freezing does not improve the quality of meat; it may temporarily (for up to four to eight

  weeks of freezing) improve its tenderness, however.

  Certain requirements must be met if meat is to be frozen properly; any attempts to ignore them only court failure. Meat must be wrapped in airtight containers — ones that are moisture-, odor-, and vapor-proof. Here’s why:

  • Moisture (ice crystals) in meat that is allowed to dry out will result in freezer burn.

  • Vapors from outside sources must not be allowed to enter the meat and add to moisture already in it.

  • Natural meat odors must not be allowed to enter other products in the freezer, and odors from other products should not be allowed to enter the meat.

  Getting Started with Freezing Meat

  Freezing quantities of meat for storage requires basic equipment and supplies. Here’s a list of what you’ll find useful:

  • Home freezer or access to a community food locker

  • “Can or freeze” jars made especially for freezing, glazed pottery, plastic boxes, aluminum containers, or tin and tin-enameled containers (for packing meat)

  • Freezer tape (to seal containers)

  • Aluminum freezer foil or freezer paper coated with cellophane or polyethylene; polyethylene plastic also works

  • Wax paper, not as wrapping, but to separate chops and cuts

  • Moisture- and vapor-resistant bags (for wrapping fowl and small pieces of meat)

  • Marking pencils (to label packages) and rubber bands

  How to Wrap Meat for Freezing

  Freezers tend to dry meat out. This tendency is a main reason for sealing it in proper wrappings or containers. Wrap meat tightly, also, to squeeze out all possible air, for normal air contains bacteria and other enemies of food. If you pack meat in rigid containers, pack it tightly for the same reason.

  So that moisture does not escape through the wrappings and vapor and odors do not penetrate the meat, the proper wrap must be moisture-vapor-resistant paper. If you pack meat in rigid containers, they, too, should be moisture-vapor-resistant. If you’re wrapping meat in paper, either the drugstore fold or the butcher’s
wrap will work (see illustrations, page 294). Packages should be sealed with regular freezer tape to cover the seams completely. Unless rigid containers have screw tops or other means of sealing them airtight, their tops, too, should be sealed with freezer tape. When using ziplock freezer bags, be careful to eliminate excess air and close them securely.

  Maximum Recommended Freezing Times for Meat

  Power Failure!

  Your freezer may occasionally lose power because of a break down or a power outage. Short power failures will not affect meats. But if the power is off for a day or more, be prepared to take some action.

  Place about 25 pounds of dry ice on a sheet of cardboard over the top of the frozen packages in your freezer. Close the freezer tightly. If the freezer is half full, this should keep foods frozen for two or three days. However, check every 24 hours to see if more dry ice is required. If the freezer is practically full, food should remain frozen for three or four days.

  Making the Drugstore Fold

  1. Place food on the shiny side of the freezer paper in the center of the sheet.

  2. Bring two sides over food, keeping edges even. Fold together 1 inch of freezer paper and crease.

  3. Continue making narrow folds until the freezer paper is snug against the food.

  4. Fold ends toward food in narrow folds, squeezing out air until the package is tight, and tape to secure. The seam is sealed with the fold.

  5. Seal with tape. Write the date and contents on the dull side of the freezer paper.

  step 1

  step 2

  step 3

  step 4

  step 5

  Making the Butcher’s Wrap

  1. With the meat at one corner of the paper, roll the paper tightly toward the opposite corner.

  2. Tuck in the sides of the paper and roll to opposite corner.

  3. Seal the open edges with freezer tape.

  Thawing Meat

  Three methods will safely defrost food. The best way is to plan ahead for slow, safe thawing of meat in the refrigerator in its original wrappings; this prevents evaporation of its natural juices. Meat may also be thawed in cold water or in a microwave. Meat may be thawed as it cooks, too. However, unthawed meat requires more time to cook than does meat that has thawed, and partially frozen meat is apt to cook unevenly. Other than that, it should be treated like fresh meat when being cooked. But cook it quickly following removal from the refrigerator, or dormant bacteria will go into action and start spoilage.

  In general, small items may defrost overnight, while most foods require a day or two. Large items such as turkeys may take longer: one day for every 5 pounds. For faster defrosting, place food in a leakproof plastic bag and immerse it in cold water. Be careful not to allow leaks, as tissues can absorb water like a sponge, which results in watery food. Check the water often to be sure it stays cold, and change it every 30 minutes. When the food is thawed, refrigerate it until it is ready to be cooked.

  Of course, the defrost feature on microwave ovens has greatly simplified and quickened this process. After defrosting in a microwave, you must complete the cooking process immediately, because some areas of the meat become warm and begin to cook during microwaving. In partially cooked food, bacteria might not be destroyed.

  Refreezing Meat

  It is safe to refreeze meat that has started to thaw, provided ice crystals remain in it. But under no circumstances should meat be refrozen if an off color or off odor is noticed; destroy it at once without tasting by man or beast! In general, refreezing reduces the quality of meat somewhat, so the refreezing should be noted on the label and the refrozen meat used first. Meat that has been completely thawed should not be refrozen.

  Temperatures for Preserving Meats

  Making Sausage

  The smell of sausage sizzling on the grill is enough to whet even the mildest appetites, but somehow, when the sausage is fresh and homemade, it’s even more enticing. And making sausage is easy.

  Basic Sausage

  These country-style sausage links are a good place to start in sausage making. Once you have mastered this basic technique, you will be able to try the variations that follow and create your own recipes.

  4 feet small (1½-inch diameter) hog or sheep casings

  White vinegar

  2½ pounds lean pork butt, chilled

  ½ pound pork fat, cut into 1-inch cubes

  1½ teaspoons dried sage

  1½ teaspoons coarse salt

  ¾ teaspoon finely ground white or black pepper

  ¾ teaspoon sugar

  ½ teaspoon crushed red pepper

  ½ teaspoon dried thyme

  ¼ teaspoon dried summer savory

  Preparing the casing. Rinse the casing under cool running water to remove any salt clinging to it. Place in a bowl of cool water; soak for 30 minutes. While you’re waiting for the casing to soak, begin preparing the meat (next step).

  After soaking, rinse the casing under cool running water. Slip one end of the casing over the faucet nozzle. Hold the casing firmly on the nozzle and then turn on the cold water, gently at first and then more forcefully. This procedure will flush out any salt in the casing and pinpoint any breaks. Should you find a break, simply snip out that small section of the casing.

  Place the casing in a bowl of water and add a splash of vinegar — 1 tablespoon of vinegar per cup of water is sufficient. The vinegar will soften the casing and make it more transparent, which in turn will make your sausage more pleasing to the eye. Leave the casing in the vinegar solution until you are ready to use it. Rinse well and drain before stuffing.

  Preparing the meat. Chip pork butt into 1-inch cubes. Refrigerate the meat cubes and fat for 30 minutes to firm them up before grinding.

  • If you are using a food processor, process the meat and fat to a very fine dice and mix in the seasonings after all of the meat and the fat have been processed.

  • If you are using a hand grinder, run the meat and fat through the fine disk (¼ inch or smaller) twice. Mix in the sage, salt, white or black pepper, sugar, red pepper, thyme, and savory with your hands between the first and second grindings.

  About Sausage Safety

  When making sausage, you must be responsible for providing food that is safe to eat. Here are some rules to follow:

  1. Use hot water and dish detergent to scrub all surfaces that will be in contact with the meat. In particular, clean your cutting board very well. Rinse everything thoroughly. When you are finished, wash and sanitize the cutting board (use a mixture of 1 teaspoon chlorine bleach and 1 quart of water as a sanitizing solution).

  2. Assemble your utensils and equipment: grinder, sausage funnel, knives, mixing spoons, and a large pan for mixing. Pour boiling water over the grinder and the utensils that will come into contact with the meat. Allow everything to cool completely before proceeding, so as not to raise the temperature of the meat and thus encourage the growth of bacteria.

  3. Take off any rings you are wearing and wash your hands carefully. Wash them again if you are called away from your work, such as for a phone call.

  • If you are using an electric grinder with a sausage-stuffing attachment, sprinkle the seasonings over the meat and fat and mix with your hands before grinding, because the grinding and stuffing will be one continuous operation.

  Stuffing the sausage. Slide a bit of the prepared casing over the sausage funnel or over the attachment of the electric grinder. Push it along until the entire piece of casing is on the funnel and the end of the casing is even with the funnel opening.

  • If you are using an electric stuffer, turn it on and feed the seasoned cubes of meat into the hopper. When the ground meat mixture is flush with the opening of the tube, turn off the grinder. Pull about 2 inches of casing off the tube and tie it into a knot; this will prevent air bubbles from getting into the sausage.

  • If you are using a sausage funnel, push the ground meat mixture through with your fingers until it reaches the lip of the opening.
Tie off the casing.

  Continue stuffing the casing until all the meat has been used. Feed small amounts of meat through the funnel at a time, packing the casing firmly but not to the bursting point. If the casings are packed too firmly, you will be unable to twist off the links without rupturing the casings. Try to maintain an even thickness throughout the length of the casing, and avoid trapping air in it. When all the meat has been used, remove any leftover casing from the funnel.

  Sausage-Making Equipment

  With one or two exceptions, you probably already have the equipment in your kitchen that you will need to make sausage. Here’s a list of the basic tools.

  • Grinder. An old-fashioned, cast-iron hand grinder like the one in your grandmother’s kitchen is still available and is still a bargain, even at today’s inflated prices.

  • Power grinder. If you don’t want to grind meat by hand, purchase an electric food grinder with at least two cutting disks.

  • Sausage funnel. If your grinder doesn’t have a sausage-stuffing attachment or if you use a food processor to grind the meat, you will need a sausage funnel to stuff the meat into casings.

  • Knives. The knife is the most important tool you’ll use to make sausage, because so much of the job involves cutting, boning, and trimming the meat. A boning knife aids the cook in removing as much meat as possible from the bone. For slicing, use an 8- to 10-inch chef’s knife.

  • Butcher’s steel. This steel or ceramic rod with a handle is used to finely hone a knife blade.