Moon Coastal Carolinas

by Jim Morekis

  Up in North Myrtle, Getaway Adventures (843/663-1100, www.myrtlebeachboatcruises.com) specializes in dolphin tours. Also in North Myrtle, Thomas Outdoors Watersports (2200 Little River Neck Rd., 843/280-2448, www.mbjetski.com) runs dolphin cruises.

  ON LAND

  Golf

  The Grand Strand in general, and Myrtle Beach in particular, is world golf central. There are over 120 courses in this comparatively small area, and if golfers can’t find something they like here, they need to sell their clubs. While the number of truly great courses is few—the best courses are farther down the Strand near Pawleys Island—the quality overall is still quite high.

  A great bonus is affordability. Partially because of dramatically increased competition due to the glut of courses, and partially because of savvy regional marketing, greens fees here are significantly lower than you might expect, in many cases under $100. For even more savings, finding a golf-lodging package deal in Myrtle Beach is like finding sand on the beach—almost too easy. Check with your hotel to see if they offer any golf packages. At any time of year, some good one-stop shops on the Internet are at www.mbn.com and www.myrtlebeachgolf.com.

  Some highlights of area golf include the Davis Love III-designed course at Barefoot Resort (4980 Barefoot Resort Ridge Rd., 843/390-3200, www.barefootgolf.com, $105-185) in North Myrtle, maybe the best in the Strand outside Pawleys Island. Or would that be the Greg Norman course, or the Tom Fazio course, or the Pete Dye course, all also at Barefoot? You get the picture.

  Also up near North Myrtle is a favorite with visitors and locals alike, the challenging Glen Dornoch Golf Club (4840 Glen Dornoch Way, 800/717-8784, www.glensgolfgroup.com, from $100), on 260 beautiful acres. Affiliated with Glen Dornoch are the 27 holes at Little River’s Heather Glen (4650 Heather Glen Way, 800/868-4536, www.glensgolfgroup.com, $130), which are divided into Red, White, and Blue courses. They combine for what’s consistently rated one of the best public courses in the United States.

  And no list of area golf is complete without a nod to Myrtle Beach National (4900 National Dr., 843/347-4298, www.mbn.com, from $80). With three distinct courses—King’s North, West, and South Creek, with its South Carolina-shaped sand trap at hole 3—the National is one of the state’s legendary courses, not to mention a heck of a deal.

  Miniature Golf

  Don’t scoff—miniature golf, or “putt-putt” to an older generation, is a big deal in Myrtle Beach. If you thought there were a lot of regular golf courses here, the 50 miniature golf courses will also blow your mind. Sadly, almost all of the classic old-school miniature golf courses are no more, victims of the demand for increased production values and modernized gimmick holes. But here are some of the standouts, including the best of the North Myrtle courses as well.

  Down near the older section of Myrtle, the completely over-the-top Mount Atlanticus Minotaur Goff (707 N. Kings Hwy., 843/444-1008, $10 for 18 holes) is garish yet wonderful. And yes, that’s how it’s spelled—get it? Legend has it that this one course cost $3 million to build. Literally the stuff of dreams—or maybe hallucinations—this sprawling course mixes the mythological with the nautical to wonderful effect. You don’t actually encounter the Minotaur until the bonus 19th hole, a fiendish water trap. If you get a hole in one, you get free golf here for life.

  Mount Atlanticus Minotaur Goff

  My own favorite course is a bit farther north on the main drag. Captain Hook’s Miniature Golf (2205 N. Kings Hwy., www.captainhooksminigolf.com, $10 for 18 holes) has two courses depicting the world of Peter Pan and Neverland, including a hole entirely onboard the eponymous captain’s pirate ship! I wouldn’t call it particularly difficult, but it’s a lot of fun.

  Hawaiian Rumble (3210 U.S. 17, 843/458-2585, www.prominigolf.com) in North Myrtle is not only a heck of a fun, attractive course, it’s also the headquarters of the official training center for the U.S. Professional Miniature Golf Association (the folks who generally get a hole in one on every hole). The Rumble’s sister course is Hawaiian Village (4205 U.S. 17, 843/361-9629, www.prominigolf.com) in North Myrtle, which is also the home of serious professional miniature golf competitions.

  For a bit of retro action, try Rainbow Falls (9550 Kings Hwy., 843/497-2557). It’s not as garish as some of the newer courses, but fans of old-school putt-putt will love it.

  While at Broadway at the Beach, you might want to try the popular medieval-themed Dragon’s Lair (1197 Celebrity Circle, 843/913-9301, hours vary by season). Yep, it has a 30-foot fire-breathing dragon, Sir Alfred, that you have to make your way around. While the dinosaur craze has cooled somewhat, the golf at Jurassic Golf (445 29th Ave., 843/448-2116), festooned with dozens of velociraptors and the like, certainly has stayed hot. There is a similarly themed site in North Myrtle, the new Dinosaur Adventure (700 7th Ave., 843/272-8041).

  Tennis

  There are over 200 tennis courts in the Myrtle Beach area. The main municipal site is the Myrtle Beach Tennis Center (3302 Robert Grissom Pkwy., 843/918-2440, www.myrtlebeachtennis.com, $2 pp/hour), which has 10 courts, 8 of them lighted. The city also runs six lighted courts at Midway Park (U.S. 17 and 19th Ave. S.).

  The privately owned Kingston Plantation (843/497-2444, www.kingstonplantation.com) specializes in tennis vacations, and you don’t even have to be a guest. They have a pro on staff and offer lessons. Down in Pawleys Island, the Litchfield Beach and Golf Resort (14276 Ocean Hwy., 866/538-0187, www.litchfieldbeach.com) has two dozen nice courts.

  Cycling

  In Myrtle Beach, when they say “biker,” they mean a Harley dude. Bicycling—or safe bicycling, anyway—is largely limited to fat-tire riding along the beach and easy pedaling through the quiet residential neighborhoods near Little River. There is a bike lane on North Ocean Boulevard from about 29th Avenue North to about 82nd Avenue North. Riding on the sidewalk is strictly prohibited.

  As for bike rentals, a good operator is Beach Bike Shop (711 Broadway St., 843/448-5335, www.beachbikeshop.com). In North Myrtle, try Wheel Fun Rentals (91 S. Ocean Blvd., 843/280-7900, www.wheelfunrentals.com).

  Horseback Riding

  A horse ride along the surf is a nearly iconic image of South Carolina, combining two of the state’s chief pursuits: equestrian sports and hanging out on the beach. A great way to enjoy a horseback ride along the Grand Strand without having to bring your own equine is to check out Horseback Riding of Myrtle Beach (843/294-1712, www.myrtlebeachhorserides.com). They offer a variety of group rides, each with a guide, going to nature-preserve or beach locales. While they’ll take you out any day of the week, advance reservations are required. Ninety minutes on a nature preserve costs about $50 per person, while a 90-minute ride on the beach is about $75 per person.

  You can go horseback riding on Myrtle Beach from the third Saturday in November until the end of February, with these conditions: You must access the beach from Myrtle Beach State Park, you cannot ride over sand dunes in any way, and you must clean up after your horse.

  SPECTATOR SPORTS

  Playing April-early September in a large new stadium near Broadway at the Beach are the Myrtle Beach Pelicans (1251 21st Ave. N., 843/918-6000, www.myrtlebeachpelicans.com, $8-11), a single-A affiliate of the Texas Rangers.

  NASCAR fans already know of the Myrtle Beach Speedway (455 Hospitality Ln., www.myrtlebeachspeedway.com, $12, free under age 10) off U.S. 501, one of the more vintage tracks in the country, dating back to 1958 (it was actually a dirt track well into the 1970s). Currently the main draws are the NASCAR Whelen All-American Series races (Apr.-Nov. Sat. 7:30pm).

  Other spectator sports in the area tend to revolve around the Chanticleer teams of Coastal Carolina University (132 Chanticleer Dr. W., 843/347-8499, www.goccusports.com), just inland from Myrtle Beach in Conway. They play football in the Big South Conference. By the way, chanticleer is an old name for a rooster, and in this case is a self-conscious derivative of the mascot of the University of South Carolina, the gamecock.

  Accommodations

&n
bsp; There is no dearth of lodging in the Myrtle Beach area, from the typical high-rise “resorts” (think condos on steroids) to chain hotels, vacation villas, house rentals, and camping. Because of the plethora of options, prices are generally reasonable, and competition to provide more and more on-site amenities—free breakfasts, “lazy river” pools, washers and dryers, hot tubs, poolside grills, and so on—has only increased. You are the beneficiary, so you might as well take advantage of it.

  Note that the stated price range may be very broad because so many Myrtle Beach lodgings offer several room options, from one-bed guest rooms to full three-bedroom suites. Here are a few general tips to consider when booking a room:

  • The larger suites are generally “condo apartments,” meaning they’re privately owned. While they’re usually immaculately clean for your arrival, it means that housekeeping is minimal and you won’t get lots of complimentary goodies whenever you call the front desk.

  • The entire Myrtle Beach area is undergoing growth, and that includes the accommodations. This means that many properties have older sections and newer ones. Ask beforehand which section you’re being booked in.

  • Check www.myrtlebeachhotels.com for last-minute deals and specials at 11 well-run local resorts.

  • By the end of September, prices drop dramatically.

  • Almost all area lodgings, especially the high-rises, feature on-site pools galore; lounge chairs and tables are at a premium and go very quickly during high season when the sun’s out.

  • Always keep in mind that summer is the high season here, unlike the rest of South Carolina, and guest rooms, especially at beachfront places, get snapped up very early.

  UNDER $150

  For 75 years, S Driftwood on the Oceanfront (1600 N. Ocean Blvd., 843/448-1544, www.driftwoodlodge.com, $100-120) has been a favorite place to stay. Upgraded over the years, but not too upgraded, this low five-story, 90-room complex is family-owned and takes pride in delivering personalized service that is simply impossible to attain in the larger high-rises nearby. As you’d expect, the guest rooms and suites are a bit on the small side by modern Myrtle Beach standards—with none of the increasingly popular three-bedroom suites available—but most everyone is impressed by the value.

  Probably the best-regarded bed-and-breakfast in Myrtle Beach (yes, there are a precious few) is the S Serendipity Inn (407 71st Ave. N., 843/449-5268, www.serendipityinn.com, $90-150). A short walk from the beach but sometimes seemingly light years away from the typical Myrtle sprawl, this 15-room gem features a simple but elegant pool, an attractive courtyard, and sumptuous guest rooms. The full breakfast is simple but hearty. There’s free Wi-Fi throughout the property.

  If you’re looking for a basic, inexpensive, one-bed hotel experience on the beach, ask for a room at the new oceanfront section of the Best Western Grand Strand Inn and Suites (1804 S. Ocean Blvd., 843/448-1461, $80-140), a smallish but clean and attentively run chain hotel. The property’s other buildings are significantly older and are located across busy Ocean Boulevard, and the walk across the street to the beach can be difficult, especially if you have small kids. That said, this is a great value and a quality property.

  If water park-style entertainment is your thing, try Dunes Village Resort (5200 N. Ocean Blvd., 877/828-2237, www.dunesvillage.com, $140-300), also one of the better values in Myrtle. Its huge indoor water park has copious waterslides, including several for adults, and various other aquatic diversions. The buildings themselves—the property comprises two high-rise towers—are new and well equipped, although since this is a time-share-style property, housekeeping is minimal.

  $150-300

  My favorite place to stay at Myrtle Beach is the S Island Vista Oceanfront Resort (6000 N. Ocean Blvd., 888/733-7581, www.islandvista.com). While not the flashiest or heaviest in amenities by any means, Island Vista’s location in a quiet residential area overlooking a mile of the Strand’s best and least-traveled beach makes it a standout alternative to the often crowded and logistically challenging environment you’ll find in the more built-up high-rise blocks farther south on the beach. In the high season you’ll pay about $300 for a one-bedroom suite, but the prices on the spacious and very well equipped two- and three-bedroom suites are competitive. They have the usual multiple-pool option, including an indoor heated pool area. A big plus is the fact that the in-house fine-dining restaurant, the Cypress Room, is a definite cut above most area hotel kitchens.

  Island Vista Oceanfront Resort

  Consistently one of the best-regarded properties in Myrtle proper, the Hampton Inn & Suites Oceanfront (1803 S. Ocean Blvd., 843/946-6400, www.hamptoninnoceanfront.com, $169-259) has been made even better by a recent and thorough upgrade. This is a classic beachfront high-rise (not to be confused with the Hampton Inn at Broadway at the Beach), clean inside and out, with elegant, tasteful guest rooms in various sizes (yes, flat-screen TVs were part of the makeover). Guest rooms range from typical one-bed, one-bath hotel-style rooms to larger condo-style suites with a fridge.

  Situated more toward North Myrtle and hence closer to those attractions, the Sea Watch Resort (161 Sea Watch Blvd., $171-395) is a good choice for those who want the full-on condo high-rise Myrtle Beach experience but not necessarily the crowds that usually go with it. The guest rooms are clean and well equipped, and by edging north a little on the beach, you can actually spread out and enjoy some breathing room.

  An oldie but a goodie, the beachfront Carolina Winds (200 76th Ave. N., 843/497-5648, www.carolinawinds.com, $150-300) remains one of the better overall condo-style vacation spots in Myrtle. Unlike many of the newer monolithic high-rises, Carolina Winds almost has a retro Miami Beach feel to it, both in architecture and attitude. A two-night minimum stay is required during the high season.

  One of the better-quality stays for the price in Myrtle is the Roxanne Towers (1604 N. Ocean Blvd., 843/839-1016, www.theroxanne.com, $150-250). Known for attentive service, this is a busy property in a busy area. Parking is historically something of a problem. Keep in mind that room size is capped at two bedrooms, so there are none of the sprawling three-bedroom suites that many other local places have.

  For a quality stay in the heart of Myrtle’s beach bustle, go for the Sandy Beach Resort (201 S. Ocean Blvd., 800/844-6534, www.beachtrips.com, $200-300). The guest rooms are top-notch, and the service is professional. As is the case with many local properties, there is a newer section, the Palmetto Tower, and an “old” section, the venerable Magnolia Tower. There are one-, two-, and three-bedroom units available, the latter a particularly good value.

  Considered one of the major remaining centers of the shag subculture on the Strand, the Ocean Drive Beach and Golf Resort (98 N. Ocean Blvd., $200-350) up in North Myrtle Beach hosts many events surrounding the notable regional dance, including the Shaggers Hall of Fame. Its on-site lounge, The Spanish Galleon, specializes in beach music. It’s also just a great place to stay, with amenities such as a “lazy river,” a whirlpool, full galley-style kitchens, and, of course, extreme proximity to the beach. A remodel in 2007 has made it even plusher inside and out.

  Also up in North Myrtle is the new S Tilghman Beach and Golf Resort (1819 Ocean Blvd., 843/280-0913, www.tilghmanresort.com, $200-350), owned by the same company as the Ocean Drive Beach Resort. It’s not directly on the beach, but since the buildings in front of it are pretty low, you can still get awesome ocean views. Even the views from the back of the building aren’t bad, since they overlook a golf course. But you don’t have to be a duffer to enjoy the Tilghman—the pool scene is great, the balconies are roomy, and the suites are huge and well enough equipped (a flat-screen TV in every room) to make you feel right at home.

  VACATION RENTALS

  There are hundreds, probably thousands, of privately rented condo-style lodgings at Myrtle Beach, in all shapes and forms. Most, however, do a great job of catering to what vacationers here really seem to want: space, convenience, and a working kitchen. All rental agencies basicall
y work with the same listings, so looking for and finding a rental is easier than you might think.

  Some of the key brokers are Myrtle Beach Vacation Rentals (800/845-0833, www.mb-vacationrentals.com), Beach Vacations (866/453-4818, www.beachvacationsmb.com), Barefoot Vacations (800/845-0837, www.barefootvacations.info), Elliott Realty and Beach Rentals (www.elliottrealty.com), and Atlantic Dunes Vacation Rentals (866/544-2568, www.atlanticdunesvacations.com).

  CAMPING

  Myrtle Beach is not where you go for a pristine, quiet camping experience. For that, I suggest Huntington State Park down near Murrells Inlet. However, there is plenty of camping, almost all of it heavily RV-oriented, if you want it. For more info, visit www.campmyrtlebeach.com.

  The closest thing to a real live campground is good old Myrtle Beach State Park (4401 S. Kings Hwy., 843/238-5325, www.southcarolinaparks.com, daily 6am-10pm, $4 adults, $1.50 ages 6-15, free under age 6), which despite being only a short drive from the rest of the beachfront sprawl is still a fairly relaxing place to stay, complete with its own scenic fishing pier (daily fishing fee $4.50). There’s even a nature center with a little aquarium and exhibits.

  The charming and educational atmosphere is largely due to the fact that this is one of the 17 Civilian Conservation Corps parks built during the Great Depression. There are four cabins ($54-125) available, all fully furnished and about 200 yards from the beach. The main campground is about 300 yards from the beach and comprises 300 sites with electricity and water ($23-25) and a 45-site tent and overflow campground ($17-19), which is only open during the summer high season.